Colombia Travel Guide
Caño Cristales
Colombia
Caño Cristales, located in the Meta department, is famous worldwide as the river of five colors. Its striking palette of yellow, blue, green, orange, and red is due to a special plant. This remarkable display happens only from June to November during the rainy season. The only way to reach it is from the town of La Macarena.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT CAÑO CRISTALES, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
Is there such a thing as a five-color river?
Caño Cristales is located in the Meta department of Colombia, at the heart of the Serranía de la Macarena National Park—which rises from the Guiana Shield, the oldest geological formation on Earth.
The La Macarena National Park, encompassing 629,280 hectares, is located at the junction of the Andes Mountains, the Eastern plains, and the Amazon rainforest. It is one of Colombia’s 60 national parks.
This area is rich in biodiversity. It is home to various forests, rivers, rock formations, and numerous species of birds and wildlife.
The Caño Cristales River extends for about 100 kilometers, weaving through narrow gorges and stone terraces.
Caño Cristales has a history that is both rich and complex.
Overlooked by the Spanish for more than three centuries, the Llanos region was difficult to reach because of the Orinoco River and the harsh climate.
In 1969, Colombian farmers discovered Caño Cristales, but it remained largely unknown until the 1980s when a Colombian journalist reported on it. However, the armed conflict kept the region dangerous and inaccessible.
It wasn’t until 2009 that the security situation improved, allowing the site to reopen to the public. Tourism began in 2010, and today, approximately 20,000 tourists visit Caño Cristales each year.
Just two words: Unique experience.
The river is famous for its vibrant colors, thanks to the Macarenia Clavigera, an endemic aquatic plant that changes color depending on sun exposure. The riverbed displays hues of green, pink, red, purple, and brown, offering a breathtaking natural spectacle.
You can only see it in Colombia—there are currently two other sites where you can admire this phenomenon, but they are less impressive (San José del Guaviare and Yarumales).
But that’s not all!
Caño Cristales is surrounded by waterfalls, impressive rock formations, a river with powerful rapids, the enchanting Llanera culture, and the exceptional biodiversity of the La Macarena National Park, where you can observe savannas, jungles, and a wide variety of birds and mammals.
Additionally, by visiting Caño Cristales, you support responsible tourism that protects this natural site and makes a significant financial contribution to the local population.
Fun fact: did you know that Caño Cristales appeared in the animated movie Encanto?
The park is open to the public precisely during this time of year, usually from mid-June to late November.
Access is regulated to preserve its natural beauty, with a maximum of 300+ people per day. It’s advisable to make arrangements before arriving.
To avoid crowds and increase your chances of being among the 300, avoid weekends and public holidays—which are quite numerous in Colombia.
The best months are July to September, with fewer cloudy or rainy days.
Be prepared to sweat. The average temperature is 23 degrees in the evening and 28 degrees during the day. And, of course, it’s very humid.
There are packages of 3, 4, 5, or 6 days offered by agencies.
Considering that a bit of luck is needed to fully enjoy Caño Cristales (rain the day before and sunshine during the visit), that there are fun activities to do in the area, and that the highest costs are the park entrance fees and airfare, the ideal duration is 5 days.
With 5 days, agencies include two visits to Caño Cristales (via different trails), and you won’t have to pay the park entrance fees again.
You can consider a 4-day package if you only have 2 weeks in Colombia. You’ll still have a buffer day in case of bad weather. In any case, don’t choose the 3-day package!
If you decide to do it yourself by hiring a certified guide in La Macarena and handling the administrative procedures, you should plan for at least 6 days. Personally, we stayed for a week.
© Tomplanmytrip
HOW TO VISIT CAÑO CRISTALES
This is the star activity of your trip to La Macarena.
Macarenia clavigera is the star of Caño Cristales. When the river’s water level is low, it looks like a kind of creeping lichen, almost invisible, covering some rocks.
Then the first rains come, the river swells, and the magic happens.
Covered with water, it starts to bloom. But be careful, Macarenia Clavigera is fragile. It must be exposed to sunlight while submerged to achieve its famous shades of red, pink, and purple. Those hidden by the shadow of trees turn green. And as soon as the water recedes, the plant dies and turns brown. Additionally, the color of the rock, typical of the region and the Guiana Shield, takes on a golden yellow hue when covered by water.
Thus, we witness an incredible spectacle where red, purple, pink, yellow, and green mingle in the riverbed deep in the Llanos.
To enjoy it, Cormacarena has marked 3 trails. Let’s see which ones.
The hike through Caño Cristales Park offers several marked trails to explore this unique natural site. Each trail reveals breathtaking landscapes: colorful rivers, viewpoints, rock formations, waterfalls, and crystal-clear pools. A local guide is mandatory, and the park office assigns the trail based on the group (and your agency’s contacts), which helps distribute visitors evenly.
But don’t worry; each trail passes through the most impressive sections of Caño Cristales and lasts about 7 hours.
I also found the guides to be well-organized, communicating via radio to ensure groups don’t cross paths. We felt like we were alone in the world, and it was a pleasant experience.
Here are the 3 trails:
- Sendero Los Pianos: This 6.5 km trail is the shortest, featuring spots like Caño Escondido, Cascada de la Virgen, Cascada Los Pianos, Los Cuarzos, Tapete Rojo, and Piscina del Turista.
- Sendero Alto del Águila: At 9 km, this is the longest trail. It passes through Cascada de la Virgen, Cascada Piedra Negra, Salto del Águila, Cascada la Escalera, Pozo Cuadrado, El Tapete Rojo, and Los Ochos.
- Sendero Pailones: This 8 km trail traverses lesser-known areas with green Macarenia Clavigera. It includes Piscina Carol Cristal, Cascada Carol Cristal, El Coliseo, Pozo del Corazón, and Los Ochos.
All the trails pass through 4 sites:
Tapete Largo: To admire Caño Cristales from above. You can see a long stretch of the river colored by the plants’ red, the rocks’ yellow and gray, the jungle’s green, and the sky’s blue.
Tapete Rojo: This area has the highest concentration of aquatic plants. Like Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, it’s a masterpiece that’s hard to take your eyes off.
Los Ochos: Since the Serranía de la Macarena is part of the Guiana Shield, erosion has had time to work its magic. The river current has created a series of circular pools, each displaying different colors depending on its depth.
Piscina de los Turistas: This is the best spot for swimming, with clear water and depths of up to 4 meters. If you brought your mask, now is the time to use it.
Yes, you can swim during your visit to Caño Cristales—with the heat, it was a treat. This is possible in specific areas where there are no aquatic plants.
However, using sunscreen, insect repellent, or other products is forbidden because they destroy aquatic plants.
Typically, there are two swimming spots per trail.
Besides La Piscina del Turista, we also stopped at Cascada Los Cuarzos. This pool is surrounded by vegetation and impressive rocks with geometric shapes. It is fed by a waterfall that resembles a white curtain you can slip behind. It is a true little paradise.
© Tomplanmytrip
CAÑO CRISTALES SURROUNDINGS
Half-day activities organized on the day of arrival and the day of departure.
The excursion to Caño Cristalitos begins with a half-hour boat ride on the Guayabero River. Then, a fairly steep 45-minute hike takes you to El Mirador, offering an impressive view of the Colombian savanna.
The hike continues through this savanna for about 90 minutes, where you’ll discover the small ponds of Caño Cristalitos filled with the Macarenia Clavigera plant, similar to that of Caño Cristales.
After admiring this natural beauty, you can cool off with a swim in a natural pool. The descent is much easier; it takes about 60 minutes of walking to reach the boat.
This 5 km excursion lasts around 4 hours and offers a perfect introduction to the region—hence the reason to do it on the first day.
I suggest starting this excursion with a dawn wake-up to catch the sunrise over the plains of Los Llanos. If there’s fog, it will appear illuminated, creating a magical view.
Then, head to Caño Piedras by 4×4 through grassy hills to swim in beautiful emerald green crystal-clear natural pools and observe many local birds such as macaws and parrots.
Overall, it’s an easy 1 km walk through the savanna, and the excursion lasts around 4 hours.
This activity usually takes place on the last day before the flight.
This hotel is 10 minutes by car from La Macarena. Its rooftop offers a panoramic view of the savanna. You can also have a meal or a drink there. Access to the rooftop is not free.
The animal diversity around Caño Cristales is outstanding, influenced by the Andean, Amazonian, and Orinoquian ecosystems. Traveling along the Guayabero River in a lancha, you might see caimans, turtles, and numerous birds—so stay alert!
Within Caño Cristales Park, I didn’t see many animals because the vegetation is sparse and the trail is quite busy. To improve your chances of seeing wildlife, consider staying at a hotel outside La Macarena, by the Guayabero River. You’re likely to spot some monkeys!
Besides monkeys and reptiles, the region is a haven for birdwatchers. With over 1,120 bird species recorded, it’s one of Colombia’s richest bird areas. Bajo Lozada is especially good for spotting hoatzins (prehistoric-looking birds with a unique, eerie appearance), turtles, and occasional caimans.
There’s nothing like riding in the Llanos plains in the early morning or late afternoon. Don’t hesitate to ask your agency if this is possible.
© Tomplanmytrip
CAÑO CRISTALES SURROUNDINGS
Additional one-day activities to consider besides Caño Cristales.
The boat trip on the Guayabero River to Raudal de Angostura 1 begins with a 40-minute journey upstream. This section of the river is ideal for observing local wildlife, so keep your eyes peeled!
Upon arrival at Raudal de Angostura, you’ll encounter impressive rapids created by the river flowing through a rocky canyon, accessible only during the dry season. I find such canyons always awe-inspiring, as you’re surrounded by towering cliffs shaped by time and water, covered in dense vegetation. It always feels like I’m on a National Geographic expedition.
You can take photos of the rapids before starting a hike that leads to a small swimming area, followed by lunch with a stunning view of the river.
The site is also famous for its petroglyphs at the base of the cliffs, evidence of ancient pre-Columbian civilizations. The local guide will share stories and legends of the area’s indigenous peoples, including the legend of the three mirrors.
This excursion lasts 8 hours.
This excursion is designed for those who enjoy hiking and have chosen a private tour. Once you reach Raudal de Angosturas, you can decide to divert towards Ciudad de Piedra.
This spectacular rock formation is accessible after a challenging 4—to 5-hour hike. The rocks form a labyrinth where you’ll see naturally created shapes that resemble houses, windows, and doors. Along the way, you’ll find Moriches (palm groves) and small natural pools, perfect for a refreshing swim.
Once you arrive at Raudal de Angostura, you can also take another small boat to go up the Caño Temblor. After a short 1.5 km hike through a wooded trail, you’ll reach a magnificent red carpet of Macarenia Clavigera at Aguas Claras. This little-visited site uniquely resembles a woman’s lips when seen from above—too bad you’re not a bird.
Given that you’ll have already visited Caño Cristales once or twice, this might not be the option I’d recommend if you have 4 or 5 days.
This excursion is typically included in Caño Cristales trips because it is not physically demanding and offers variety.
The day at Laguna del Silencio starts after breakfast with a 35-minute boat ride on the Guayabero River, followed by an hour-long walk (with an optional horseback ride) through farms and forests to the lagoon.
La Laguna del Silencio is surrounded by majestic palm trees with unique shapes (morichales) and is home to a rich biodiversity, including fish, pink dolphins, piranhas, and rays. I enjoyed navigating its calm waters on a chalupa, providing a moment of tranquility and connection with nature.
After lunch, there’s time to walk through the grove, nap in a hammock, or take a dip before heading back to the hotel.
This excursion lasts 10 hours.
Caño Canoas is one of my favorite waterfalls in Colombia because, in addition to the stunning site (four impressive 70-meter-high waterfalls in the jungle), there is a circuit to enjoy it from different viewpoints. The trail even goes behind the main waterfall, allowing you to swim at its base. In short, it’s amazing!
Since Caño Canoas is a 3.5-hour jeep ride from La Macarena, most agencies do not include it in their Caño Cristales packages. You’ll need to inquire and find an agency willing to take you there.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY IN CAÑO CRISTALES
My favorite hotels in La Macarena
The hotels in La Macarena are simple and not particularly charming, but they are adequate.
Most travelers stay here when they book packages to Caño Cristales:
- Hotel La Fuente is the most “high-end,” featuring a pool and air-conditioned rooms. Hotel Casa Real offers a similar experience.
- Hotel Punto Verde is my favorite. It has a pool, air-conditioned rooms, and a lovely garden. Additionally, the food is usually quite good.
There are two great options along the Guayabero River. These are eco-hotels with wooden cabins surrounded by lush vegetation and wildlife. You can organize your excursions directly with them.
The closest to La Macarena (2 km) is Hotel Makalombia. The cabins are simple but comfortable, and the hosts are charming.
But the top choice is Ecolodge La Manigua, located 20 minutes by boat from La Macarena. The owner, Juan Pablo, has built beautiful, comfortable wooden cabins that blend perfectly with the environment, with walkways to move around the property. It is a pleasure to wake up each morning to the sound of monkeys and birds. The icing on the cake? The food is delicious.
© Tomplanmytrip
EATING AND DRINKING
Generally, meals are included in your Caño Cristales package.
You usually stop at fincas for lunch so other locals can benefit from tourism. It’s always a traditional Colombian dish consisting of rice, potatoes, plantains, and a piece of chicken, beef, or pork. The food from the finca is always flavorful because it’s cooked over a wood fire. I enjoy it every time.
During your excursion to Caño Cristales, you typically bring a fiambre. This meal is prepared in the morning (rice, potatoes, plantains… you get the idea) and wrapped in a large banana leaf. It’s perfectly eco-friendly. I love it.
It’s a full board. And it’s where we eat the best in the area. So enjoy it. 🙂
If you’re staying in La Macarena, be sure to check out Café Lithos. It’s beautifully decorated and ideal for a drink or a snack.
The Parrando Llanero in La Macarena is a cultural celebration held twice a week to welcome visitors.
The locals, proud of their llanero heritage, showcase demonstrations of Joropo, the traditional dance and music, accompanied by typical dishes like carne a la llanera.
This folkloric evening is also a moment of gratitude towards tourists, highlighting the importance of community tourism for peace and local development.
© Tomplanmytrip
HOW TO GET TO CAÑO CRISTALES
You must first arrive to La Macarena
You’ll probably need to arrange your own transportation to La Macarena. The easiest way is to fly:
The most frequent departures are from Villavicencio (daily) and Bogotá (four times a week) with the airlines Satena and Clicair.
There are now flights from Medellín (twice a week) with Clicair.
Here are a few tips:
- Book as early as possible (as soon as you’ve chosen your Caño Cristales package).
- If the airline websites don’t work, try using Kiwi.
- It’s best to take a flight that arrives early in the morning and departs in the afternoon (to make the most of Caño Cristales).
- There are sometimes delays on these flights. Plan a buffer if you’re connecting to another flight.
Yes, it’s possible now—something that wasn’t possible before due to the guerrilla conflict. However, it’s not the fastest or most comfortable option.
You can come from Vista Hermosa with a colectivo that departs once a day, taking around 7 hours.
You can also come from San Vicente del Caguán with Cootranscaguan. This colectivo/jeep departs four times a day and takes about 5.5 hours. The very first time we came, we took this route from La Macarena with Adrien!
A dirt road in “decent” condition now links San José del Guaviare to La Macarena. The trip should normally take 7 hours. Jeeps leave three times per week.
There is a 6 to 8-hour boat trip from San José del Guaviare. However, this trip is not guaranteed, as the boat only departs once or twice a week, and it can be canceled—that’s what happened to Adrien and me.
Okay, you’re in La Macarena. There are still a few steps to take before heading to Caño Cristales.
- Register on the day of arrival: You must pay the entrance fee and register with CorMacarena. An explanatory video and guidelines are provided to inform you about the park’s rules. A licensed guide is mandatory.
- The big day: From La Macarena, you need to take a 30-minute boat ride, followed by a 30-minute jeep ride on a bumpy road in poor condition. There is then an army checkpoint.
- Follow one of the three circuits assigned to you and enjoy the spectacle!
To protect the ecosystem, it’s important to follow the guide’s instructions and stay on the marked paths. The park is open from 7 AM to 4 PM and accommodates a maximum of 300+ people per day.
© Tomplanmytrip
Is Caño Cristales safe?
The Caño Cristales region, once a conflict zone, has been safe for tourists since the 2017 peace agreements, although some remote areas remain risky.
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MY LAST TIPS
To enjoy Caño Cristales even more.
The yellow fever vaccine is “almost mandatory.” You probably won’t be asked for it in La Macarena, but immigration might ask for it when you leave the country and could quarantine you if you don’t have your yellow fever vaccination record.
The trails at Caño Cristales are accessible to everyone, but a certain fitness level is recommended to handle the heat and walk along the river.
Also, be sure to protect yourself from the sun, as you won’t be allowed to use sunscreen.
At Caño Cristales, it is forbidden to:
- Enter with plastic (bottles, bags, etc.).
- Smoke on the site.
- Swim with sunscreen or insect repellent—to protect the river’s flora.
- Use a drone without special authorization.
- Enter with children under 5 years old.
- Touch the Macarenia Clavigera plants.
There’s only one ATM in La Macarena, and it’s not always reliable. It’s best to bring cash.
- Comfortable, lightweight, and quick-drying clothes.
- Pants and long-sleeve shirts to protect against the sun and mosquitoes.
- Wide-brimmed hat or cap to protect your face and neck.
- Hiking shoes with good grip and water resistance.
- Spare shoes for the evening.
- Waterproof jacket.
- Small, lightweight, waterproof backpack.
- Swimsuit.
- Water bottle or thermos (plastic bottles are prohibited).
- Binoculars for bird watching.
- Camera.
- GoPro for underwater photos.
- Snorkel or goggles for underwater viewing.
Using an agency to visit Caño Cristales is recommended as it simplifies the administrative procedures in La Macarena.
Without an agency, you must get a permit from the national parks office and hire a licensed guide, which can take a day.
Agencies handle these formalities, including the stay tax, and arrange the rest of your visit to maximize your time.
© Tomplanmytrip
ITINERARIES
To include Caño Cristales in your trip to Colombia.
Looking for a bit of adventure?
Land in Florencia from Bogotá and explore the Caquetá department for 4 to 5 days. Once in San Vicente del Caguán, take the colectivo to La Macarena and then fly to Medellín.
The best way to discover the Meta department.
Take a bus from Bogotá to Mesetas to explore this region full of waterfalls and canyons. Then head to Yarumales by jeep to discover Caño Canoas. Next, drive to La Macarena (still by jeep) and then fly to Medellín.
© Tomplanmytrip
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