Colombia Travel Guide
Colombian Amazon
Rainforest
The Colombian Amazon covers 40% of the country. The northern part is rich with rivers and waterfalls and showcases an incredible diversity of ecosystems, blending vast forests, plains, and astonishing geological formations. The southern part consists of immense expanses of dense jungle, traversed by the Amazon River, the longest and widest river in the world. The Amazon offers a magnificent exploration ground for nature lovers to experience unforgettable adventures.
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VISITING THE COLOMBIAN AMAZON
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
The Amazon, Earth’s green lung.
The Amazonian region of Colombia is one of the country’s six natural regions. Located in the extreme south, it is bordered to the north by the Andes and Orinoco regions and shares borders with Venezuela, Brazil, Peru, and Ecuador.
Spanning an area of 476,000 km², I like to divide it into two sub-regions:
- The northern part, adjacent to the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes, which we will call the “Gateway to the Amazon,” includes the departments of Putumayo (Mocoa), Caquetá (Florencia), Guaviare (San José del Guaviare), and Guainía (Inírida).
- The southern part, covered with tropical rainforest (“Amazonia” as opposed to the northern part), includes the departments of Amazonas (Leticia) and Vaupés (Mitú).
The Colombian Amazon region is home to just over a million inhabitants.
The Amazon is a captivating world. With its strikingly rich and wild beauty, it offers an extraordinary ecosystem for nature enthusiasts. Aspiring ethnologists will be profoundly impacted by meeting wise people living in harmony with their challenging surroundings.
The Amazon also spells adventure, and the rugged conditions make the challenge even more appealing. Don’t worry, experienced local guides will be with you every step of the journey.
The Amazon is subject to an equatorial climate, with hot temperatures (average around 26°C) and high humidity (average 83%).
There are two seasons, the high-water season (November to May) and the low-water season (August to October).
- Rainy season: November to April. Showers are not rare the rest of the year.
- The hottest months: August to November.
- Fishing: Low-water season.
- Easier to see animals: Low-water season.
- See pink dolphins in Lake Tarapoto: High-water season.
- Kayaking in the flooded jungle: High-water season.
- Easier to visit the Amazon (by boat): High-water season.
My favorite months are May to July because the water level is still high (it starts to decrease slowly), and the rains are a bit less frequent.
Given the limited number of daily flights to reach the Colombian Amazon and the significant amount of time spent on boats, I suggest a minimum of 5 days.
© Tomplanmytrip
Amazon Wildlife
With one in ten species known on Earth, the Amazon is a fabulous reservoir of biodiversity, but luck and patience are required; you are not at a zoo.
The Amazon is home to several species of endemic monkeys, including the Tamarindo (Tamarin), the Mono ardilla (Squirrel monkey), the Churuco (Woolly monkey), the Capuccino negro (Capuchin), and the Tumí (Pygmy marmoset).
You can observe them in the jungle by being attentive and quiet, often with the help of the trained eye of your indigenous guide.
Observing them is even easier by visiting Mocagua at the Maikuchiga Foundation, which rescues and rehabilitates monkeys that are victims of illegal trafficking. Watching these highly active and playful animals settle down for the night is both entertaining and educational.
With good eyesight or a pair of binoculars, you can also spot the slow-moving two-toed sloth living in the forest canopy.
The Amazon is home to a large number of bird species, some of which are endemic.
One of the most curious is the Crested Hoatzin. Colorful, with large wings, a long neck topped by a small head with big eyes, and crowned with a tousled crest, he was easy to spot from a boat on Lake Marasha, preparing for the night while emitting hoarse calls.
Toucans are noisy early risers, as you might notice if you camp out in the jungle. The lookout at the Ceiba Amazonas eco-lodge in Mocagua is also a great observation spot.
I recommend visiting this eco-lodge to spot the Harpy Eagle (or fierce Harpy), the largest raptor in the Amazon (up to 1 meter). This formidable predator is difficult to see.
You can also observe several species of hummingbirds and macaws in blue, red, or green.
The Amazon River and Lake Tarapoto (30 minutes by boat upstream from Puerto Nariño on the Loretoyacu River) are home to gray dolphins and the famous pink dolphins.
In the low-water season, pink dolphins leave Lake Tarapoto, but both species can be seen year-round in the Amazon. To attract these highly curious and playful animals, try tapping on the boat’s hull with the engine off and splashing the water’s surface.
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AMAZON WILDLIFE
The best times of the day to observe animals are at sunrise and sunset. Don’t forget your binoculars!
The black caiman is very common in the waterways and swamps of the Amazon.
You can spot them near the shores once night falls. They are identifiable by the reflection of their eyes, which stick out of the water like two little periscopes in the beam of a headlamp. If your guide is skilled, they won’t have trouble capturing a young specimen for you to observe before releasing it.
If you’re lucky, you might encounter an anaconda in the river. They are easier to spot in the Los Llanos region in the northwest of Colombia.
The Amazon harbors more than 15% of the world’s freshwater fish species.
Among them is the famous Piranha, so voracious that any amateur fisherman can catch one with the simplest fishing rod. It has quite a few bones, but its flesh is delicate.
The Pirarucu (or Paiche) is the largest-scaled freshwater fish in South America (up to 3 meters and over 200 kg). It feeds on other fish, but with surprising agility, it can also catch birds. If you want to see its impressive leap, go feed the specimens raised at Marasha, and watch your fingers. Its white flesh is tender and flavorful.
Finally, the Bagre or catfish is very common. This large fish with amusing whiskers can grow quite big and almost always ends up on a plate. Personally, I don’t find its flesh to be excellent.
The Amazon jungle is home to a multitude of insects and small animals, some visible only at night or thanks to the sharp eyes of your indigenous guide (tarantula, banana spider, tiger spider, grasshopper, stick insect, tiny frogs).
Lastly, the most elusive of them all is probably the jaguar, and if you see it, it will already be too late 😀
© Tomplanmytrip
Amazon Rainforest Flora
The Amazon rainforest is a paradise for botanists.
The Ceiba is an iconic giant tree of the Amazon. It can grow up to 60 meters tall, rising above the canopy.
You’ll definitely spot some during your trip to the Amazon.
It’s not surprising that this majestic tree fuels indigenous legends. A guide once shared with me how the Amazon River was born from a Ceiba.
It’s the largest aquatic flower in the world. Its enormous green leaves are so sturdy that they are said to be able to support a teenager (40 kg). You can admire stunning specimens at the Reserva Natural Victoria Regia, which bears its scientific name. Between March and July, its flower opens at sunset.
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EXPLORE THE AMAZON RAINFOREST
Decide how to explore the jungle based on your taste for adventure, your fitness level, and your budget.
Nature reserves provide easy access to the Amazon rainforest. Some offer eco-tourism activities. You can visit them on a day trip. Three reserves can be visited in the Colombian Amazon:
- The Victoria Regia Reserve, 15 minutes by boat from Leticia.
- The Tanimboca Nature Reserve, 30 minutes by car from Leticia (accommodation in cabins available).
- Marasha, 30 minutes by boat from Leticia.
The Amacayacu Park is officially closed but remains accessible with a guide from the indigenous communities of San Martin or Mocagua.
Kayaking offers a fun and accessible way to immerse yourself in the Amazon rainforest. It’s an activity only possible during the high-water season.
Personally, I adore it.
Night walking in the jungle is one of the most thrilling adventures, projecting you into the world of Avatar.
The sounds, the bioluminescent mushrooms, encountering nocturnal animals in the inky blackness under the canopy—it’s unforgettable. And if you’re daring, you can extend your adventure with your guide by having a campfire dinner and spending the night in a hammock.
For the more adventurous, a multi-day stay in the jungle is the ultimate adventure.
There are two possible options, both requiring advance preparation:
- Go through a local agency. Choose carefully because there are many bad ones. Don’t opt for the cheapest options! I recommend having some knowledge of Spanish.
- Stay in a remote eco-lodge and plan everything from there. This is the most comfortable option.
© Tomplanmytrip
Amazonian culture
Discovering the Amazon also involves meeting a fascinating culture full of valuable lessons.
Going to the Museo Etnográfico in Leticia before your adventure is an excellent idea. The exhibition is very well curated.
In Puerto Nariño, the Fundación Natutama teaches about the Amazon River‘s water cycle and its impact on wildlife and plants in a fun and visual way, along with the traditions of the Tikuna people.
I also loved the small Tikuna museum in Mocagua.
Mundo Amazónica near Leticia offers interactive activities that introduce Amazonian culture through its ecosystem and the use of traditional indigenous plants. Ideal for a family outing.
Sharing the simple life of a native community is an authentic and unforgettable experience.
Among the 64 Indigenous communities in the Amazon, you can visit 5:
- San Martín de Amacayacu – 2.5 hours from Leticia.
- Santa Sofía – 1 hour from Leticia.
- Macedonia – 1.5 hours from Leticia.
- Mocagua – 1.5 hours from Leticia.
- Tarapoto – 45 min from Puerto Nariño
© Tomplanmytrip
Gateway to the Amazon
The area to the north of the Amazon rainforest is still little known despite its absolutely stunning sites.
The gateway to the Amazon offers a wealth of ecosystems that will thrill nature lovers.
- Vast forests with rivers and stunning waterfalls: Cascada del Fin del Mundo near Mocoa.
- Beautiful reserves and parks: Serrania de Chiribiquete.
- Remarkable geological formations: Cerros de Mavecure.
- Rivers with vibrant colors: San José del Guaviare, Estrella Fluvial del Sur in Guainía.
- Rock paintings: Cerro Azul, Nuevo Tolima.
- Canyons: Canyon de Cajona near Florencia.
The beauty and diversity of its landscapes make it ideal for outdoor activities such as treks and hikes, rafting, canyoning, bird watching, botany, geological and archaeological excursions.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY
Don’t expect great comfort in the Amazon. It will depend upon which Amazon adventure you choose.
Leticia offers the widest selection of accommodations. However, most people don’t stay long in the city as they move on to the jungle.
There are also some pleasant hotels in Puerto Nariño. These can serve as a good base for day trips if you don’t have the budget for an eco-lodge.
Finally, you will find more basic lodging in the indigenous communities. The most developed communities are Santa Sofia and Mocagua. These hotels also offer the possibility of tours on-site—but the quality is not always guaranteed.
Waking up in the midst of nature is the best way to feel the magic of the Amazon rainforest and see the wildlife. The eco-lodges are modest yet sufficiently comfortable and well-suited to the environment. You’ll need to take a boat to get there.
They offer all-inclusive experiences (accommodation and activities).
You’ll need to decide whether you want an eco-lodge closer to Leticia (less travel time but more tourists) or one as far away as possible from towns and communities to make organizing jungle excursions and wildlife observation easier.
Here you’ll find our analysis of the best ecolodges in the Colombian Amazon.
© Tomplanmytrip
EATING AND DRINKING
Exploring the Amazon also means tasting new flavors.
Naturally, the key ingredient in Amazonian cuisine is fish. They are typically served with rice, bananas, and cassava cakes.
The Pirarucú, the largest freshwater fish, is often enjoyed as Chicharrones, small breaded and fried pieces of fish.
This emblematic fish inspired the name of the International Festival of Popular Music of the Amazon, the « Pirarucú de Oro », celebrating Amazonian musical rhythms at the end of November.
Patarasca is one of the most delicious dishes in the Amazon. It’s a fish marinated with Amazonian vegetables and wrapped in banana or bijao leaves. These leaves give the fish a juicier flavor.
You’ll often find catfish or “Bagre” on plates, along with Piranha, which has much finer flesh.
Of course, the Amazon is synonymous with exotic fruits.
Enjoy them in fresh juice, fruit salad, or (my personal favorite) ice cream.
Among the most popular are Araza, Camu-Camu, Copoazú (cocoa flavor), Lulo, and Açai.
The Mojojoy, the palm worm, is a symbol of the Colombian Amazon. This large white larva is eaten fried or grilled. It is highly nutritious and can also be consumed raw.
It’s also not unusual to find a spicy sauce made with black ants on the table, and honestly, it’s quite tasty.
© Tomplanmytrip
TRANSPORTATION
How to get to the Colombian Amazon.
By plane from Bogotá: There are 2 direct flights per day (2 hours). You will land at Alfredo Vasquez Cobo International Airport, just a few minutes from the city center. A tourism tax is payable upon arrival.
By boat from Manaus (Brazil) and Iquitos (Peru). The journey is very long.
On foot, by tuk-tuk, taxi, and public bus in Leticia. The city isn’t very large. There’s only one 30 km road leading out of town.
On foot in Puerto Nariño. All motorized vehicles are prohibited in the town.
In the Amazon, the boat will be your primary means of transport, whether you’re heading out on a jungle excursion, visiting a reserve, starting a trek, visiting an Indigenous community, getting to your eco-lodge, or traveling between cities.
Public boats leave daily from Leticia (3 departures per day). I suggest booking your seat the day before through your hotel or agency.
Local agencies and eco-lodges also rely on private boats.
© Tomplanmytrip
advice
A few recommendations to get the most out of your Amazon adventure.
A journey in the Amazon can be demanding, so it’s better to be in good physical shape.
The yellow fever vaccine is recommended by Colombian health officials (get it at least 10 days before your departure).
Tours do not venture into high-risk areas for malaria. You can choose whether or not to take a malaria treatment. The side effects (diarrhea and stomach cramps) can be tough to manage during a trek. Personally, I have never taken it.
Pack suitable clothing for a warm and humid environment with mosquitoes and other biting insects (loose clothes, long pants and long sleeves, hat, rain gear).
The terrain can be very muddy, so it’s better to walk in rubber boots. If your agency or eco-lodge doesn’t provide them, bring a pair.
I have never felt unsafe in the Amazon.
- As a border town, Leticia is well-patrolled, and I’ve always felt safe walking around, both during the day and at night. Just avoid crossing the borders at night.
- Puerto Nariño is very serene.
- Don’t venture without a guide in the jungle; you’re not a Tikuna.
I recommend booking your experiences before arriving in Leticia. This will save you from major disappointments with illegal agencies that lure clients on the streets of Leticia with unbeatable prices—and of course, a bad service.
Additionally, there is generally no internet in the jungle, so it’s best to have everything arranged before you venture out.
It’s forbidden to urinate in the water; the fish don’t like it. More seriously, a fish called Candiru is a parasite known to swim up urine streams and lodge itself in the urethra. The locals fear it much more than piranhas.
© Tomplanmytrip
Favorite experiences in The Colombian Amazon
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Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, dormitory option 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Immerse yourself for a few days in the atmosphere that reigns in the lung of humanity.
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Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, comfort option 4d
Colombia
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1 place
Stay in the world's largest forest and discover its wonders and diversity.
View this tour
Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, dormitory option 5d
Colombia
5 Days
1 place
Immerse yourself for a few days in the atmosphere that reigns in the lung of humanity.
View this tour
Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, comfort option 5d
Colombia
5 Days
1 place
Stay in the world's largest forest and discover its wonders and diversity.
View this tour
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