Visit Cabo De La Vela: How to Get There and Why [Guide]
Editeur
Update
Cabo de La Vela is a remote coastal town in the desert of La Guajira. A sacred place in Wayuú culture, it’s cherished for its unique landscapes where the desert and ocean meet.
Having visited several times, here are my tips for exploring this place without or with the help of a local travel agency—and how to choose the right one.
Edit 05/2024: We completely revised this article.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT CABO DE LA VELA, COLOMBIA
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General overview
Unique landscapes imbued with Wayuú legends.
From a geographical standpoint, Cabo de la Vela is a cape located on the Caribbean coast in northern Colombia, within the La Guajira desert and the department of the same name. The small town of Cabo de La Vela is about a 2-hour drive from Riohacha and 5 hours from Santa Marta.
Cabo de la Vela (Jepira in the Wayuú language) plays a major role in the culture of the Wayuú people, the first inhabitants of the La Guajira peninsula. This unconquered people during the Conquista view Cabo de la Vela as a sacred place where the worlds of the living and the dead communicate while waiting for the souls to find eternal rest.
Once at peace, the souls return in dreams to maintain a connection with their family members and advise them in their daily decisions. It’s said that this connection with the dream world is strongest at Cabo de la Vela.
Though Cabo de la Vela may not be a final destination on its own, it’s an interesting stop to appreciate its magnificent natural sites, preserved between desert and ocean, as well as its stunning viewpoints.
Cabo de la Vela also has perfect wind and sea conditions, delighting kitesurfers from around the world who love to meet up at this spot.
The climate in Cabo de la Vela remains relatively stable throughout the year. It is hot and humid. During the day, temperatures hover around 30°C, while at night, they cool down to around 20°C.
The hottest months are from mid-July to the end of September.
Strong winds for kitesurfing blow all year round.
I recommend avoiding October and November, as they are the rainy seasons, and the roads can become a real quagmire.
It’s also best to avoid the tourist crowds of the high season, from mid-December to January, Holy Week, and school holidays in June.
Agencies that offer tours to La Guajira typically include one night in Cabo de la Vela, which should be enough, in my opinion. If you’re traveling on your own, think about staying for two nights to explore the surroundings and plan your trip to Punta Gallinas.
For kitesurfing fans, plan to stay several days—beginners will require about 10 hours of lessons.
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WHAT TO DO IN Cabo de la Vela
Cabo de la Vela offers an endless palette of ochres and blues.
Pilón de Azucar, or Cerro “Kamaichi” in Wayuú, is the most famous site and also my favorite place in Cabo de La Vela. A short 15-minute hike leads to the summit, where a statue of the Virgin of Fátima offers an incredible view of the rugged desert coastline. Be careful not to get blown away, as the wind can be very strong up there. If you look closely, you’ll see words formed with rocks in tribute to the deceased.
On your way down, stop at Playa Dorada, a beautiful beach with golden sand and turquoise waters. It’s best to swim in the morning because the waves can be rough in the afternoon, and there’s little shade. Always be cautious due to the current.
Mirador Tortuga is ten minutes by car from Cabo de la Vela. A 15-minute walk will bring you to the top, where a turtle-shaped stone slab offers a stunning view.
Next to Mirador Tortuga is Ojo de Agua beach, a sacred site in Wayuú cosmology. This is my favorite beach, with its calmer waves and gorgeous sunsets.
Less than a kilometer from the Pilón de Azúcar lookout, you’ll find Arco Iris beach, which gets its name from the rainbow effects created by the sea spray over the rocks. Swimming is not allowed due to the large waves and powerful currents.
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WHAT TO DO IN Cabo de la Vela
Wind and even more colors.
With strong winds all year and calm seas, Cabo de la Vela is one of the world’s top kitesurfing spots. Kitesurfing schools are all set up north of the town, where the water is flat and shallow. In the evenings, kitesurfers gather at one of the few beach bars, creating a friendly atmosphere.
Cabo de la Vela’s spots are more for experienced kitesurfers. If you’re a beginner, it’s best to start at the spots in Riohacha, where the winds are more consistent and the instructors are more skilled.
About a 40-minute walk (5 minutes by moto-taxi) from the kitesurfing spot in Cabo de la Vela is the cape’s lighthouse. “El Faro” is the most famous site for watching the sun set into the sea. If you want to avoid the crowds, continue a bit further down the path past the lighthouse; the views from the cliff are even more breathtaking.
For your safety, I advise against walking there after dark and, if you want to choose your spot, try to arrive before 5:30 PM.
Don’t leave Cabo de la Vela without buying one or more Wayuú mochilas. The women of the community make these brightly colored bags, and each stitch of this ancestral art carries meaning and tradition. They are very reasonably priced, and it’s a beautiful way to support Wayuú culture.
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WHERE TO STAY IN Cabo de la Vela
Cabo de la Vela is a secluded location with difficult access to water and electricity.
Along the single, long avenue that runs through the village, you’ll find accommodations ranging from basic options at the entrance of the town (no running water and limited electricity) to more comfortable choices like small cabins near the kitesurfing area.
All are rancherias, rustic inns typical of La Guajira.
You can choose between a simple hammock (the cheapest and most common option), a “chinchorro,” a more spacious hammock typical of Wayuú homes, or a standard bed.
If you decide to come to Cabo Vela on your own, I recommend booking a room with a bed in advance, as many accommodations work with agencies.
I personally appreciated Analauli, which provides comfortable rooms with showers, beds, and 24-hour electricity—a significant comfort advantage in the area. Plus, the food is quite good.
Another excellent choice is Utta, near the lighthouse. It’s a bit more secluded and offers stunning sunset views and a peaceful atmosphere.
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WHAT TO EAT IN Cabo de la Vela
Although it’s a bit more varied than in Punta Gallinas, the cuisine in Cabo de la Vela remains simple and not the best. Due to the difficulty of finding fresh vegetables in the La Guajira desert, you might be a bit disappointed if you’re vegetarian. Your diet will mainly consist of fish and goat meat dishes.
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HOW TO GET TO Cabo de la Vela
You can reach Cabo de la Vela with a tour agency or solo if you’re somewhat adventurous and speak Spanish.
If you choose to explore La Guajira with an agency, a classic 3-day tour departing from the capital Riohacha will take you to Cabo de la Vela on the first day, with stops in Manaure, a fishing village, and Uribia, the second largest town in the department. You’ll stay there for one night before heading to Punta Gallinas with your guide the next day.
From Uribia, about an hour from Riohacha, the cheapest option is to head to the main market to find a truck going to Cabo de la Vela. This option can take longer and be quite uncomfortable—when I made the trip, I was buried under a mountain of chips, and my travel companion was a chicken.
Alternatively, from Uribia, you can opt for a 4×4 (here), a faster and more comfortable option.
Take a taxi from Riohacha and ask to be dropped off at this specific intersection (30 minutes from Riohacha). There, you can catch a 4×4 that crosses the desert. The trip typically costs no more than 15 USD per person for a group and takes about 2 hours. Be prepared to wait, as the jeeps only depart when they are full.
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SAFETY IN Cabo de La Vela
It’s best not to wander around too much at night in Cabo de la Vela.
Remember that you are in the poorest department of Colombia, and there have been stories of theft at night, so I advise against walking alone outside the town.
Also, be aware that there is no police station here, and it is the Wayuú people who administer everything and resolve issues by applying their own laws. The community is very close-knit.
Several female travelers have accused the owner of the AWALAYU’U kitesurf school of sexual harassment on social media. I have also heard these accusations from other sources.
Personally, I have been to Cabo de La Vela three times—twice on my own, without an agency—and I never had any issues.
However, I recommend going through a local agency if you don’t speak Spanish and if you’re not used to traveling in Latin America.
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Tips & Information
A few things to know before heading to Cabo de La Vela.
Travel light and smart—that’s the key to your trip to Cabo de La Vela. Forget the giant bags that will only cause you trouble and go for a backpack that allows you to carry the essentials easily.
Among the basics, don’t forget:
- Comfortable clothing (light long-sleeve shirts to protect you from the sun and sand), a small sweater for the evening, and a hat or cap.
- A headlamp and an external battery (electricity will be scarce at night).
- Basic medications (Imodium) and toilet paper + hand sanitizer.
- Sunscreen and insect repellent.
Many agencies offer tours in La Guajira, including the same sites, but the quality of service can vary greatly—believe me, I learned this the hard way!
Some agencies operate without proper authorizations (and therefore without insurance).
Here are the essential criteria to consider before choosing your agency:
- Robust, well-maintained vehicles like 4x4s, preferably with air conditioning.
- Experienced drivers who prioritize passenger safety. If they’re friendly, even better—they can double as guides.
- A clear program with well-managed logistics, including contingencies for unforeseen events, and a good network of local contacts.
- A responsible and sustainable tourism approach that highlights Wayuú culture.
- A detailed package specifying essentials such as water, type of accommodation (hammock, bed), and planned meals.
The main advantages of going on a tour are fewer surprises and better organization. Going alone won’t save you much money, and if you don’t speak Spanish well, you’ll have a hard time managing.
During my last trip, we were able to avoid a strike blockade by leaving at 3 a.m., something we could never have done without the help of our local expert.
There are no ATMs in Cabo de La Vela. Beyond Riohacha, the only ATM is in Uribia, and it’s frequently out of service. Therefore, carry cash, ideally in small denominations, for purchasing drinks and souvenirs.
Cabo de La Vela is remote, making water supply challenging. Some lodgings don’t have access to water, while others use a mixture of fresh and salt water. Always avoid drinking water unless it’s from a jug or a sealed bottle.
Good agencies provide enough water, so ensure that your agency provides sufficient water before you start your trip to Cabo de La Vela.
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Itineraries
How to include Cabo de La Vela in your Colombia trip.
A classic tour with an agency will take you to Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas. It covers all the points of interest in these two destinations and is the ideal option if you don’t have much time. Departures are daily, so it’s easy to join a group.
If you’re coming to Cabo de La Vela on your own from Riohacha or Uribia, I highly recommend taking the time to explore Punta Gallinas. Once you’re there, you can easily find jeeps to book from one day to the next.
This tour will guide you through Cabo de la Vela, Macuira, and Punta Gallinas. Many travelers overlook Macuira in their La Guajira itinerary, which I believe is a mistake. I was captivated by this stunning green oasis amid the desert. Make sure to plan in advance if you want to include this hidden gem in your Punta Gallinas trip, as departures are limited to only a few per month.
→ See the detailed program of this 4-day tour.
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