Colombia Travel Guide
LLANOS (EASTERN PLAINS)
Colombia
Los Llanos are vast plains in the eastern part of Colombia. It is one of the country’s most beautiful, wild, and biodiverse regions. Particularly photogenic, it is known for its immense flooded plains, cattle ranching, stunning rivers, “llanera” culture, and wildlife watching. Los Llanos encompasses mostly four departments: Casanare, Arauca, Meta, and Vichada.
We are on a quest across Colombia to discover the top local agencies to establish a trustworthy network of experts and gather unique, valuable insights for each destination. Our aim? To make you fall in love with Colombia effortlessly.
- In Colombia since 2015
- + 1000 verified experiences
- + de 100 experts met
- + 150 optimized itineraries
Editor
Updated on
Select a destination in The Llanos of Colombia
Caño Cristales
VISITING THE EASTERN PLAINS OF COLOMBIA
For making smart choices quickly and effortlessly.
GENERAL OVERVIEW
An incredible region just opening up to tourism.
Colombia’s Eastern plains (Llanos) are part of the immense Orinoco Basin, a region covering nearly 1,000,000 km², mainly in Venezuela. In Colombia, the llanos span about 350,000 km² in the east (separated from Bogota by the Eastern Andes), including the departments of Casanare (Yopal), Meta (Villavicencio), Arauca (Arauca), and Vichada (Puerto Carreño).
This region includes various beautiful landscapes like mountain ecosystems, Andean foothills, Amazon rainforests, and wide natural savannas.
It’s one of Colombia’s six natural regions, covering 30% of its total area. It was minimally explored by the Spanish due to the lack of gold, but the Jesuits dared to explore, creating huge ranches (hatos) for cattle farming.
Today, Colombia has around 2,000,000 inhabitants, known as “llaneros,” with a strong culture linked to life in the hatos—similar to Colombian cowboys.
The Llanos region has recently opened to tourism and holds so many treasures that I’m surprised there aren’t more travel guides about it.
Two main departments will catch your attention:
Casanare, with its vast flooded plains and natural reserves, is a paradise for wildlife observation—believe me, it’s much easier than the Amazon.
Meta also offers safari opportunities, but its highlight, due to its geographical location, is particularly the observation of birds, reptiles, and monkeys. The department also features stunning multicolored rivers and some of the country’s most beautiful waterfalls.
Add to this an enchanting llanera culture, complete with harp music, cowboy songs, grilled meats, and multi-day horseback excursions, and you have everything you need for a memorable adventure off the beaten path.
There is very little relief in Los Llanos, and it is very hot all year round.
The two seasons are very distinct:
- December – March: Dry season
- April – November: Rainy season
This has a significant impact on the animals you can see, the activities you can do, and the landscapes.
It is crucial to choose the right dates for your stay if you decide to visit Los Llanos:
- For a Colombian Safari, the best period is from December to March.
- To admire the multicolored rivers like Caño Cristales, you must visit when the park is open, from mid-June to November.
- To descend the impressive Guape Canyon, go from late December to February.
- For long horseback rides, it’s better to go during the rainy season to avoid the heat.
Interesting festivals:
- Cimarron de Oro Festival (December, Yopal): 2 days of llanera culture.
- Villavicencio Llanero Festival (December): 1 week of llanera culture.
- Torneo Internacional del Joropo y Reinado Internacional (April 6): Villavicencio’s anniversary.
To fully enjoy Los Llanos, you must use a local agency to organize your stay; otherwise, it becomes a logistical nightmare.
The issue is that private transport (and flights) are expensive in this region. The budget quickly becomes an obstacle.
To organize a safari or an expedition to Caño Cristales, I recommend a minimum of 4 days (if you can do 5 days, that’s perfect).
For the more “accessible” area of Meta, around Mesetas and its surroundings, I recommend spending a week. There are numerous waterfalls and rivers, and you can sometimes use public transport to get around.
© Tomplanmytrip
ANIMAL WATCHING
Colombia’s best wildlife-watching region.
Los Llanos has everything needed for perfect wildlife watching. Vast treeless plains, ranches over 10,000 hectares converted into nature reserves, a low human population, and a long dry season where animals must gather around the few water sources to survive.
You can organize a safari in Colombia in two cities: Yopal and Villavicencio. Personally, I have a clear preference for Casanare (Yopal) because there are more wild animals. If you decide to go to Villavicencio, make sure to take a tour that includes Puerto Gaitan, a town on the banks of the Meta River—this is where the best hatos are.
Wildlife watching can be done by jeep, foot, tractor, or horseback (my favorite).
The animals you are sure to see include capybaras, caimans, deer, and many birds. There are also good chances of seeing otters, anteaters, and anacondas. And with (a lot) of luck, pumas and jaguars.
Did you know that Meta is the second Colombian department with the largest number of bird species? More than 1,100, according to Ebird.
One of the birdwatchers’ favorite activities is visiting Villavicencio to explore the Bosque Bavaria (over 400 species) or the Rancho Camana reserve. Another option is to go to Granada to visit the Flora Los Camorucos site.
With more than 800 bird species, Casanare is not far behind. The Alta Gracia reserve is a strategic location, as many migratory birds come to refresh themselves in its 500-hectare lagoon from December to March.
In Meta, I saw more monkeys than ever in my life, especially around Maracaibo—7 species in total!
There’s a particular site that our expert dubbed El Sanctuario de Los Monos (the Monkey Sanctuary). As soon as we entered the grove, we saw a family of Spider monkeys moving from tree to tree, followed by a group of Churucos monkeys casually having a snack—right next to a sloth, by the way. Arriving at the Santo Domingo waterfall, the show continued. Howler monkeys were using the branches of a tree to cross the river.
It felt like being in the Jungle Book. All that was missing was Simba and Pumba, South American style.
And this wasn’t the only hike where this happened (we also saw Titi monkeys several times)! In short, it’s a paradise for monkeys.
You got it, I had an amazing 7-day trip in this area, thanks to Jérémie. I haven’t had time to put together his activity pages yet. Fortunately, you can use our form to contact him (destination Meta).
If you pass through Villavicencio, you can also visit the Reserva de Piedemonte to see an endemic monkey species: the Zocay.
Another good idea is to stay in an eco-hotel outside La Macarena, rather than in town.
And yes, some people are attracted to frogs and snakes. They’ll be delighted to know that the Villavicencio area is perfect for this activity, even though it’s difficult to find good agencies offering this experience.
Alejandra is an expert in the area, able to organize personalized trips based on what you want to see. Don’t hesitate to contact her using our form to get more details. It’s free and with no obligation.
Psst, it’s best to search along the Pacific coast if you’re looking for the famous poisonous and colorful frogs.
In Puerto Gaitán, in Meta, you can see pink dolphins (toninas) without having to go all the way to the Amazon. Located about 1.5 hours from Villavicencio, boats regularly depart for Las Bocas (about 45 minutes by boat), where the Manacacías, Yucao, and Meta rivers converge, an ideal spot to see these dolphins as it’s their fish canteen.
This activity is usually combined with a 2-3 night stay in a nearby hato for wildlife observation.
© Tomplanmytrip
RIVERS AND WATERFALLS
Breathtaking sights await those willing to embrace the water.
Well, almost. From June to November, an aquatic plant called Macarenia Clavigera is submerged by floods and blooms in an intense red, with hues changing depending on the sunlight (pink, mauve, green). It’s a magnificent spectacle, unique to Colombia, and the best-known place to see it is Caño Cristales (near La Macarena).
Another alternative, a bit less impressive (but also cheaper and less touristy) is Siete Machos, located near Yarumales, about 4 hours by jeep from La Macarena.
Meta, located between the Andes and the Amazon, is crossed by many rivers, offering the chance for unforgettable water activities.
First, there’s the impressive Canyon del Guejar (in Mesetas), which can be descended by rafting. It’s relatively calm in terms of excitement (class 3 rapids), but the landscape is something else. Over a span of 17 km, the canyon gradually narrows into two towering cliffs about forty meters high, covered in dense vegetation, with waterfalls cascading down the walls into the Guejar River.
And if you continue towards La Uribe, you can experience the impressive Guape Canyon on a thrilling 3.5 km tubing adventure, surrounded by enormous sculpted rocks, mysterious caves, and fascinating guacharos birds.
Adrien and I loved these experiences offered by our partner. I haven’t had the time to create his activity pages yet. Fortunately, you can reach him through our form by choosing the Meta destination.
Once again, the region of Mesetas, Maracaibo, and Yarumales is the ideal spot.
Cascada Arenales is a 60-meter waterfall in the Sierra de la Macarena National Natural Park. Beyond its height, the beauty of the place is due to its mysterious caves and the white sand beach it holds.
La Sardinata, recently discovered in Maracaibo, is possibly the new tallest waterfall in Colombia, with 689 meters. Access requires a strenuous two-hour climb through dense jungle, where you can spot Churuco and Maicero monkeys. The waterfall is divided in two, with a swimming basin accessible during the dry season.
Caño Canoas is a spectacular 70-meter high and 200-meter wide waterfall in the Serranía de La Macarena. The 3 km trail offers several viewpoints and passes behind the waterfall. Located 3 hours from Vista Hermosa, it’s recommended to spend the night on-site.
Salto Santo Domingo is accessible from San Juan de Arama via a 3 to 4-hour hike through hanging bridges and forests.
Jérémie covers the entire area. He arranged an amazing 7-day trip for us. If you’re thinking of visiting or want more details, feel free to contact him through our form (it’s free and no strings attached).
El Tuparro National Park, located in the Vichada department, is a natural treasure with vast green plains, majestic rivers, and golden beaches.
Covering more than 550,000 hectares, it boasts spectacular landscapes, unique rock formations, and rich biodiversity with over 300 bird species. Declared a biosphere reserve and dubbed the eighth wonder of the world by explorer Alexander Von Humboldt, this park offers a variety of activities: swimming in crystal-clear rivers, hiking through natural trails, exploring caves, wildlife observation, and discovering indigenous cultures.
Primarily accessible by plane from Bogotá or Villavicencio, El Tuparro is a must-visit destination for nature and adventure enthusiasts.
© Tomplanmytrip
CULTURE & HISTORY
To better understand the Llaneros and guerrilla warfare.
The 2017 peace agreement, with the disarmament of the FARC, opened Meta to tourism. This illegal armed group was divided into numerous “battalions” scattered throughout the jungle.
If you visit Mesetas, you can explore Charco Azul, a former guerrilla-controlled area. Besides a stunning waterfall, the trail passes through a former FARC camp, with a guide explaining their daily work and camp management.
Meta, like Guaviare, Putumayo, Nariño, and Caquetá, was severely affected by the civil war due to its isolation and jungle environment—making hiding easier. During this period, many peasants grew coca plantations (often without having a say), and their professional reintegration has been challenging. One of the best ways to achieve this is through community-based tourism. I’ve always found it interesting to talk to local guides to understand their perspective on the guerrilla and their experiences.
Being a Llanero means living through epic four to six-day celebrations (paranda) with meat feasts. At work, the day starts early with a strong coffee, followed by a ride through the vast savannas, singing traditional melodies, and ends with playing Joropo under the stars. Always humble and proud, a Llanero is a sort of MacGyver, always finding a solution and capable of surviving for days in the savanna.
Yes, it’s not easy being a Llanero.
The true Llaneros can be found in Casanare. My best role models were Heiler (sadly passed away this year) and El Seco (twice awarded the best Llanero prize), who opened his home/outdoor museum to visitors to rediscover the true Llanera culture—El Museo Llanerazo.
During a visit to a hato, it’s also possible to participate in farm work, sharing in the daily life of a Llanero.
There are practically no coffee plantations in Los Llanos (the altitude is too low), but Meta is renowned for its excellent chocolate.
If this activity interests you (who doesn’t love chocolate??), head to Vista Hermosa to visit Finca Agroturística La Piel Roja.
This family started growing cacao in 2012 to replace their coca plantations, and now they have their own chocolate brand! At La Piel Roja, you can witness all the steps of making a delicious chocolate bar. It’s also a strategic spot for birdwatching and spotting the famous Zocay monkey—don’t hesitate to stay in one of their three cabins.
Crossing part of Los Llanos on horseback rather than by jeep is possible. I recommend doing it during the rainy season to avoid the heat.
With Aleja, we did the “light” version, 5-6 hours per day: 3 hours exploring the savanna looking for animals and 2 hours to reach the next hato.
It’s an excellent way to see different landscapes and atmospheres—but you better have steel-like buttocks.
The Casanare department is the ideal destination for this kind of experience.
Joropo is the iconic folk dance of the Colombo-Venezuelan Llanos.
Inspired by Spanish dances like flamenco, it features small, rapid steps. Couples dance by stamping their feet with their bodies relatively still.
Accompanied by the harp, the cuatro, and maracas, joropo expresses the values and traditions of the llaneros through rhythmic and cadenced songs and dances.
I find this music intoxicating, but it’s not common to see live performances. These are typically private events held during large festivals—alongside the mamona.
In La Macarena, the city organizes a Parando Llanero twice a week, and in Yopal, there’s a group that usually plays once a week on the terrace of the GHL Hotel.
This is an event that agencies can easily organize if you remember to ask in advance.
Psst, here is one of the most popular songs.
© Tomplanmytrip
LLANOS LANDSCAPES
More than an endless savannah.
The Eastern Plains of Colombia consist of three main landscapes:
- Piedemonte: Located at the base of the mountains, this transition landscape between mountains and plains is rich in biodiversity. It features a dense forest with a great variety of flora and fauna, typical of tropical areas—found in parts of Casanare and Meta.
- Llanuras alluvial: These floodplains are characterized by flat, fertile soils, often flooded during high water periods. They host savannas and forests along the rivers, providing habitat for numerous aquatic and terrestrial species, including those found in Arauca and Casanare.
- Altillanuras: These non-floodable areas are slightly elevated compared to the rivers, covered with grassy prairies and scattered palm trees—found in Meta and Vichada.
Morichales are plant ecosystems dominated by the moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa), essential for the water in the Colombian Orinoquía. These semi-aquatic forests, often flooded, help create savanna rivers and small streams that feed the main waterways. Morichales provide refuge and food sources for many animal species, such as the tapir, guagua, and guatín.
During my visit to Alta Gracia, I saw the most beautiful morichale. We silently navigated the lagoon at sunset, using a pole, accompanied only by our llanero guide’s songs. A pure moment of pleasure.
The Guiana Shield is an ancient geological formation dating back 2.9 to 1.7 billion years. Composed of highly erosion-resistant sandstone and quartzites, it stretches between the Orinoco and the Amazon. Characterized by table mountains called tepuis, it houses spectacular waterfalls, including the famous Salto del Angel (Venezuela), the highest in the world.
The Sierra de La Macarena forms the edge of this Guiana Shield. While you can’t see the famous tepuis here (you need to go to the Cerros de Mavicure for that), you will encounter spectacular rocky landscapes when visiting the Raudal de Angostura and the Ciudad de Piedra from La Macarena.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY IN LOS LLANOS
A limited selection of hotels.
Hatos are immense ranches covering thousands of hectares, with tens of thousands of cattle that the Llaneros gather every six months for inspection and sale decisions.
Some of these hatos have been transformed into nature reserves to protect the flora and fauna while preserving the Llanera culture of cattle ranching—and this has also prevented oil companies from drilling everywhere.
Wildlife safaris are organized in these hatos. The most isolated ones (my favorites) are located in Casanare and are only accessible during the dry season.
Generally, these offer simple yet comfortable accommodations, surrounded by farm animals and wildlife in total freedom. I’ve had lunch in front of a herd of capybaras, watched the sunset with deer, and played hide-and-seek with an aggressive macaw—true story.
Los Llanos is a remote region far from the major Colombian cities, just starting to open up to tourism. It’s not a place to lounge in a luxury hotel doing nothing—that wouldn’t make any sense.
However, a few eco-hotels in the Meta department offer travelers a chance to connect with nature.
If this is the type of lodging you’re after, consider the Manigua Eco-Hotel when visiting Caño Cristales.
© Tomplanmytrip
EATING AND DRINKING
Meat and more meat.
La mamona is typically prepared for special occasions, such as parandas. This social feast involves roasting a young cow, aged between one and one and a half years, on wooden skewers over embers. The meat is seasoned with salt, spices, and sometimes beer, and served with yuca and plantain on banana leaves.
If you’re traveling with a large group, you can ask your travel agency if organizing such an event is possible.
La carne a la perra is a dish made with marinated beef pieces, slowly cooked in a sealed cowhide, either in an oven or buried under embers overnight.
One of the best places to taste llanera cuisine is the Los Trigos restaurant in Villavicencio.
© Tomplanmytrip
TRANSPORTATION
And getting around in the Llanos.
Most flights to Los Llanos depart from Bogotá.
You need to plan your stay carefully, as depending on your destination, there may not be flights every day (e.g., La Macarena), and they are often small planes (operated by Clic and Satena) that are more expensive and have limited seating—it’s best to buy your tickets in advance.
The largest airport in the region is in Villavicencio, but you can also take direct flights to La Macarena and Yopal.
Most flights to Los Llanos depart from Bogotá.
The region isn’t very touristy, yet the condition of the roads between Bogotá and Yopal, and Bogotá – Villavicencio – Mesetas, is excellent.
The reason? The oil industry.
Therefore, if you have time, you can take the bus instead of flying—especially if you plan to visit Los Llanos from Villavicencio and then explore the canyons of Mesetas.
While it’s possible to reach the cities by bus, it’s nearly impossible to access a tourist site using public transportation.
To reach the hatos or visit the most beautiful waterfalls of Meta, you’ll need to hire jeeps with a driver. These trips are expensive, which is why Los Llanos isn’t an affordable destination to visit.
The easiest way to handle the logistics is to use a local travel agency.
Instead of jeeps, sometimes travel is done by motorboat (lancha) to reach tourist sites.
These trips are comfortable and allow you to admire the surrounding landscapes and wildlife more easily, such as caimans, turtles, and pink dolphins.
There are many boat trips if you explore the areas around La Macarena, or venture deeper into Meta from Puerto Gaitán.
By choosing to stay in a hato, you’ll likely have the opportunity to explore the savanna on horseback. It’s my favorite way to experience a wildlife safari.
© Tomplanmytrip
ADVICE
To make the most of your stay in Los Llanos.
In Los Llanos, the sun is scorching. Make sure to cover up with a hat, light long-sleeve clothing, and sunscreen (note: sunscreen is not allowed when visiting Caño Cristales).
There are also many insects, like mosquitoes and coloraditos (the worst). Be sure to bring protection and treatment for bites.
Since you’re likely there to observe wildlife, a pair of binoculars will be very useful.
Don’t forget to bring cash, as ATMs are often unavailable once you leave the major cities
Los Llanos is a region partially controlled by guerrillas, but this has no impact on the safety of travelers visiting tourist sites—quite the opposite.
I have never felt in danger while traveling in Los Llanos.
This region isn’t easy to visit without going through a local travel agency. You’ll struggle to organize all the trips and communicate with various service providers.
Additionally, using a local travel agency allows you to engage more in community tourism and have a stress-free and more enjoyable adventure.
© Tomplanmytrip
Favorite experiences in Los Llanos, Colombia
Directly contact the best local agencies for this destination
Yopal: Tailor-made safari in Los Llanos 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Discover the magic of Altagracia, with its incredible wildlife, a secluded ecolodge, and mesmerizing sunsets.
View this tour
Yopal : Safari in los Llanos from a nature reserve 4d
Colombia
4 Days
3 places
Gallop at full speed across the vast plains of the Llanos, discovering an admirable natural habitat.
View this tour
Caño Cristales: discover the famous rainbow river - group option 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Imagine the spectacle of a multicolored river winding through unique landscapes.
View this tour
Caño Cristales: discover the famous rainbow river - private option 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Imagine the spectacle of a multicolored river winding through unique landscapes.
View this tour
Looking for more activities?
We personally select and test the best tours in Colombia—to help you make the right choices.
Tomplanmytrip helps travelers fall in love with Colombia for free. To thank us, please use our booking links (Booking, Viator, GetYourGuide) and our online forms to contact the experts we recommend. This helps us earn a small commission and continue this amazing adventure. Rest assured, there are no extra fees. You’ll pay the same price as if you were booking locally.
Tom & Adrien
Discover More About Colombia
To learn everything about Colombia, check out our page dedicated specifically to this country!
