Cerros de Mavecure

My 5-day adventure to the Mavecure Hills

Since you’re now up to speed on the Cerros de Mavecure, it’s time to get you dreaming with the story of our 5-day adventure, planned with Mateo’s agency.

Ready to explore a remote corner of Colombia?

TOM’S TIP

Mateo, a nature expert and Everest climber, provides eco-friendly, custom tours to Cerros de Mavecure with top-quality service. We spent 5 days at Mavecure with his agency, but you can also opt for just 4 days.

DAY 1: WE WENT TO KENKE

After a quick 1h30 flight from Bogota to Inirida, where we briefly panicked because our flight wasn’t showing up on the departure screen, we were greeted by our smiling guide, Oscar, who immediately took us to our first activity.

Kenke is a natural and cultural reserve that, unfortunately, isn’t featured in many packages to the Cerros de Mavicure, which I find quite disappointing.

Guainia is a region with a large Indigenous population (primarily Curripaco, Sikuani, and Puinave), and by visiting such places, you’re helping protect this legacy—a legacy that almost vanished due to the Catholic missionaries.

Oscar’s wonderful family manages this park, and the love story between his father from Boyaca and his mother, Francisca, could easily be the plot of a Netflix series (no spoilers, I promise).

This visit made me realize that the cuisine here is quite similar to that of Leticia (Amazon), with dishes like Kasabe or Açaí juice.

Francisca cooked on a wood-burning fire all morning to prepare this feast for us. I was so full that I couldn’t move from my seat.

TOM’S ADVICE

To avoid thinking (like we did) that your Bogota-Inirida flight has been canceled, head to the correct terminal: Puente Aéreo. Also, keep some cash to pay the tourist tax when you arrive in Inirida.

To help with digestion, we continued with our cultural tour alongside Alba and Oscar, walking a path through fields of Inirida flowers. Their unusual shape, with white spiked petals, made me think of a medieval mace—only more vibrant and playful.

All along this little trail, Alba showed us the different tools her ancestors used for fishing, like a handcrafted fishing rod that triggers itself when the fish bites the hook, thanks to a clever system of tensioned ropes and balance. After all, a good fisherman knows how to save energy to enjoy his beer—or, in our case, some açaí juice.

My favorite part was when they let us try archery and an enormous 2-meter blowgun on targets—one of which was in the middle of a pond, so we had to use a narrow single-person canoe to retrieve the arrows. It’s the kind of experience I love because it felt like returning to childhood when I used to imagine becoming a hunter-gatherer in my grandparents’ garden.

After becoming experts capable of surviving at least 30 minutes in the jungle, we headed to a stunning little pond nestled in the vegetation with water that was… red. Quite surprising, I have to admit. It’s caused by tannins from the tree roots. Fortunately, it doesn’t stain, so it was the perfect spot to cool off and swing.

ADRIEN’S TIP

Whether you choose the 4-day or 5-day tour, our partner always includes a stop at Kenke on the first day.

DAY 2: A BOAT ADVENTURE

After a delicious breakfast, we headed to the port with Oscar.

Guainia is nicknamed the “land of many waters” because it is crisscrossed by rivers from the Amazon and the Andes.

Boats are the go-to mode of transportation here.

Before we set off to the Cerros de Mavicure, our guide wanted to show us a fascinating spot about an hour away by boat: L’Estrella Fluvial, where three rivers converge to form the vast Orinoco River.

Sitting at the front of a fast motorboat, the river was so wide I could barely make out the green shores. On the way, we paused at the meeting point of the Guaviare and Inírida rivers. Not only was the color contrast striking—like two oil paintings mixing—it’s also a favorite feeding ground for dolphins.

When we arrived at the Estrella Fluvial (it’s so wide that even a drone shot can’t do it justice), our boat left us on a rock right in the middle of the Orinoco River. That’s when the thought hit me: “Wow, I’m experiencing something truly out of the ordinary.” And there was much more to come.

After a bit of fun pretending to be Robinson Crusoe, lost on a rock in the heart of the Amazon, and a refreshing swim in the red waters of the Atabapo River (just like the waters at Kenke), we carried on with our journey to the Cerros de Mavecure—with a short break in a community for a typical meal (yes, more catfish), where Aleja almost talked me into buying a 50cm blowgun, likely to send me out hunting if she feels a little hungry.

And as our boat rounded a bend in the river, we caught our first glimpse of a Cerro. It stood tall and majestic on the banks of the Inírida River, towering over the jungle canopy. At its base lies a small community that settled there long ago and will host us for the next two nights; welcome to El Remanso.

Our guide introduced us to Marcelino and Leticia, our friendly hosts for this part of the journey. Their home is simple, made from wood, bamboo, and a palm leaf roof (which needs to be replaced every 5-7 years). There’s a spacious area with a table and hammocks to relax in, an outdoor shower with a bucket, a proper toilet (a surprising luxury), and a small covered space with tents and mattresses, which will serve as our bedroom.

To wrap up the day, Oscar suggested we take the boat to watch the sunset between the three Cerros. But just as we arrived, a massive storm rolled in. So, no sunset for us.

That said, there was an incredible force of nature in the air. The winds whipped up the white sand, creating swirling clouds and ravines along the Cerros, where water couldn’t seep into the granite walls.

To stay dry, we found refuge in a small house where we were welcomed with hot coffee while waiting for the storm to pass—by the time we boarded the boat again, night had fallen. Our captain reassured us, saying he could steer the boat with his eyes closed. Since we’re still alive, I guess he wasn’t bluffing.

TOM’S TIP

What I loved most about this journey was how genuine and untamed it felt.

DAY 3: HIKING TO THE TOP OF THE CERRO

We’d all been anticipating this moment—the climb up the small Cerro. Depending on your itinerary and how long you stay, you’ll make the ascent in the morning or afternoon.

However, Oscar had a more exciting idea: let’s leave at 3 a.m. to catch the sunrise and avoid any other groups already up there (otherwise, you have to wait your turn).

The only condition was no rain because the rocks can get dangerously slippery.

At 3 a.m., the alarm went off, accompanied by thunder. But since it seemed to be moving away, we decided to give it a shot.

The climb isn’t very high (less than 200 meters), but there are a few technical and tiring sections, especially if you’re not used to hiking. The first part is very steep, and you can use a rope to make it easier. Thankfully, I didn’t realize how steep it was since it was still dark.

There were also parts where we had to use makeshift ladders, which might catch you off guard. But that’s how things are in the remote areas of Colombia—you work with what you’ve got.

We reached the top in about 1 hour, but some groups might take 2-3 hours if they’re not in great shape.

The view from the top of the Cerro is spectacular. Like Leonardo DiCaprio, I felt like shouting, “I’m the king of the world!“.

In front of us stand the other two Cerros, even more impressive, with the Inírida River winding at their base. The clouds drift in and out, sometimes wholly enveloping them for a few minutes. In the distance, I can make out other Tepuys rising from the endless green sea—some of which humans may never have climbed.

I sit there, deep in thought, savoring a juicy piece of pineapple that Oscar has just sliced.

As we hiked back down, the trail felt new, revealed by the daylight we hadn’t had on our way up.

The afternoon was laid-back, allowing us to rest after the climb. We swam at Caño Joaquim—another beautiful red-colored river—then had a cooking class with Lili, where we learned to make Casabe, a yucca bread. And let me tell you, it’s no easy job!

ADRIEN’S TIP

This day perfectly sums up what sets our local partner apart. They think outside the box to offer you a better experience (like hiking the Cerros at night) and foster a deeper connection with the locals (like making Casabe with them).

DAY 4: BIRTHDAY AND WHITE SAND BEACH

Aleja woke up with a disappointed look: “It’s my birthday, and there’s no cakeshop here.“

For her, birthday cake is sacred.

Thankfully, I had a plan. Oscar’s girlfriend bought us a cake three days ago, and we’ve been sneaking it around in the boat’s cooler. When we arrived at the Cerros, I discreetly stored it in the fridge of the only shop around—they have electricity thanks to solar panels gifted by the government.

After the surprise party, Oscar offered to take us on one last walk around the biggest Cerros. We followed him and another community guide to walk around Cerro Pajarito, which means “little bird” in Spanish. I think “big bird” would be more fitting, but I kept that thought to myself.

It was our first time truly venturing into the Guainia jungle. We were still in the Amazon, but it wasn’t as dense as other areas we’ve been to, like Leticia or Puerto Nariño. Along the way, we saw deer tracks and even prints from a wild cat.

We spent about three hours hiking around the Cerro, arriving at a gorgeous white-sand beach—the sand was so bright that the sun’s reflection almost blinded me. And speaking of the sun, it’s always incredibly strong in Guainia, so protect yourself.

I floated in the water, letting the current carry me, surrounded by the immense three Cerros. It was our final moment here, and I tried to soak it all in.

Then, our captain picked us up by boat so we wouldn’t have to trek back. Pretty cool, right?

After lunch, it was time to head back to Inírida.

TOM’S ADVICE

If you opt for the 4-day Mavecure tour, you’ll miss out on this experience. I strongly suggest the 5-day option—it’s such a unique destination that you’ll want to savor every bit of it.

DAY 5: SECRET CASINO AND PETROGLYPHS

Our guide informed us the day before that our airline had moved up our flight at the last minute, meaning we’d have a little less time here. Satena (the airline) tends to do this a lot, so it’s important to check your emails (if you have internet) or ask your guide to do so.

For breakfast, we walked through the market, where, next to the vegetables and fish, makeshift casino stands, like cardboard roulette wheels, popped up. The locals were deeply focused, and taking photos was strictly forbidden.

We wrapped up our visit to Guainia with a stop at the Ruprestre Amarru Park, where Melbino, the owner, welcomed us. He has spent his life studying the petroglyphs in the area. To him, they are records of ancient Indigenous culture, particularly stories about the gods and the significance of education—which seemed much stricter in the past.