Amazon Gateway - Cerros de Mavecure - from the Communidad El Remanso side

Amazon’s Gateway

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  • Thomas Espeute

    I fell in love with Colombia in 2015, and then with Aleja, a Colombian woman, in 2019. Now living in Colombia, I spend my time discovering the country's hidden gems and crafting extraordinary itineraries.

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Amazon Gateway - Florencia - Watefall Salto del Caraño
Amazon Gateway - Florencia - sunset
Amazon Gateway - Florencia - Reserva Las Palmas
©@cayoya (left)©@Reservalaspalmas (right)
Surrounded by spectacular and unknown natural sites, Florencia in Caqueta is an ideal destination for hikers (Las Dalias Reserve with its Cajona Canyon), birdwatchers (Mirador de los Toucans), to discover the culture of the Huitoto people and to enjoy water activities such as rafting on the Orteguaza River.

This part of Colombia doesn’t have an official name. We invented one to help you organize your trip. It is part of the natural region of the Colombian Amazon and also borders the Eastern Llanos (with the departments of Guaviare and Guainia) and the Andes Region (the departments of Caqueta and Putumayo).

This region is both isolated from the rest of Colombia and relatively accessible by road or by plane.

The total area of the four departments is approximately 240,000 km², about the size of the United Kingdom.

Thanks to its geographic location, this region is a haven for nature enthusiasts. You’ll likely be among the few tourists experiencing this incredible flora and fauna, as it has only recently become accessible to tourism. The area is also crisscrossed by powerful rivers and situated at the edge of the Guiana Shield, providing stunning views. The indigenous population is prominent, shaping the local relationship with nature and the common use of traditional medicines.

In short, this area is perfect for adventurers who want to explore the Amazon’s biodiversity and culture while also enjoying various landscapes.

This region is consistently hot and humid. Typically, it rains much more between April and October. Key periods include:

  • Mini-version of Caño Cristales: June – November
  • Mavicure and its white sand beaches: December – March
  • Flooded forest of Guainia: May – October

Since these departments have recently become accessible to travelers, there are limited tourism infrastructures. The easiest way to fully enjoy your trip (and save time and money) is to book through a local agency, which will take care of you from your arrival. Usually, 4 to 5 days are enough to explore the destination thoroughly.

Amazon Gateway - Mocoa - Tom and Adrien on the top of Fin Del Mundo waterfall

© Tomplanmytrip

If, like me, you love swimming at the foot of waterfalls or, even better, rappelling down them, then head to the departments of Putumayo and Caqueta. Near Mocoa, you’ll find iconic waterfalls such as Cascada Fin del Mundo and Hornoyaco, and near Florencia, you can enjoy the view from Cascada Anayacito.

Rafting and tubing are not as common as around Medellin or San Gil, but there’s still some fun to be had.

Former FARC members in San Vicente del Caguan offer rafting on the beautiful Rio Pato (edit 2024: not doable at the moment for security reasons), and from Florencia, you can go tubing on a section of the Caqueta River.

Trust me, there’s a river for every taste. Water and erosion have crafted stunning and mysterious canyons like Mandiyaco and Portales de la Fraguita, along with natural pools such as the pozos naturales de San José del Guaviare.

And that’s not all! At Caño Sabana, the well-known aquatic plant Macarenia Clavigera (the same one found at Caño Cristales) turns the riverbed red during the rainy season.

In the Rio Atabapo (near Inirida), the water itself is clear and red due to the tannin from tree roots. This area of Colombia is also where three massive rivers meet to flow into the Orinoco, forming the phenomenon known as the Estrella Fluvial.

Amazon Gateway - San José Del Guaviare - caño Sabana -Adrien (1)

© Tomplanmytrip

There are more than 1,000 bird species in Caqueta and Putumayo alone (that’s 10% of the planet’s species). I don’t know of any lodges specializing in bird watching in this region yet, but some local guides are starting to gain excellent knowledge and have a precise list of species that can be observed.

Depending on what you’re looking for and your level of Spanish, the easiest way is to arrange an excursion with an agency in Bogotá.

It’s not easy to spot animals in the jungle, and I don’t like highlighting places where they are kept in captivity. However, the CEA of Corpoamazonía (an institution dedicated to protecting the Amazon), near Mocoa, is different. They care for animals that are victims of illegal trade or hunting and cannot be released back into the wild. That’s where I saw my first tapirs and the Pirarucu—the world’s largest-scaled river fish.

There are scheduled tours, museums, and informative panels to help you learn more about this incredible flora and fauna—all in Spanish.

This is a region of Colombia where the Andes, the Eastern Plains, the Guiana Shield, and the Amazon converge.

In addition to the great rivers winding through the lush jungle, you’ll find famous tepuis (high plateaus with steep cliffs), such as the Cerros de Mavecure and the Chiribiquete National Park (closed to the public).

These unique soils have also given rise to distinctive rock formations, some of which resemble abandoned cities or deep, unexplored caves, like those in the Los Guacharos National Park.

Amazon Gateway - Cerros de Mavecure - Red river close to los 3 cerros

© Tomplanmytrip

The indigenous people of the region have faced many challenges, from rubber trafficking and ideological massacres to ecclesiastical missionaries and coca cultivation.

Some communities live in isolation and have little interaction with others (as seen in Guaviare), while others have established programs to preserve their traditions and share them with visitors.

I was pleasantly surprised by the activities I participated in during my stay in the Cerros de Mavecure (learning traditional hunting and fishing, making yuca flour) and by the strong connection the people of Putumayo have with ancestral medicines.

The indigenous peoples of the Amazon have always had a deep connection with nature. Some, known as Taitas, know how to perform plant-based treatments to cleanse the body and mind.

These treatments might involve ceremonies with Yage (Ayahuasca), Mambe (tobacco), or Kambo (applying frog poison to the skin). It’s crucial to view these ancestral medicines as a means of introspection, not as recreational activities, and to participate with trusted individuals.

The Sibundoy Valley in Putumayo is frequently mentioned as a site where these ceremonies occur.

Because of their isolation, these departments have been heavily affected by the illegal coca trade. Only since the 2015 peace accords have travelers been able to visit safely. Consequently, many peasants and former guerrillas returned to “normal life” almost overnight.

The government has initiated several programs to assist them in launching responsible tourism projects to create new sources of income for the region. Though these programs have been hindered by corruption and inefficiency, there have been some notable successes.

Noteworthy examples include the ex-FARC members who started a rafting business in San Vicente del Caguan and the various fincas (farms) that now host tourists in Guaviare.

The area around San José del Guaviare is home to stunning rock paintings that, according to initial studies, date back 12,000 years. Animals and scenes of daily life are clearly visible. The most well-known sites are Cerro Azul and Nuevo Tolima.

Cerro Azul San Jose del Guaviare Amazon - Adrien

© Tomplanmytrip

Expeditions around San José del Guaviare vary depending on whether it’s the rainy or dry season.

Year-round adventures include hikes through private nature reserves to see waterfalls, mysterious rock formations (like Puerto de Orion, Ciudad de Piedra, and Los Tuneles), and ancient rock paintings (Cerro Azul).

Personally, I prefer visiting during the rainy season, as you can also witness the pink river of Caño Sabana and take a dip in the pozos naturales.

To this day, the Cerros de Mavecure remains one of the best expeditions I’ve experienced in Colombia.

These impressive black granite mountains, rising several hundred meters high, are isolated in the midst of an endless jungle and accessible only by boat.

The itinerary includes ascending the smallest Cerro to admire the view, boat excursions on magnificent rivers, cultural activities within the Indigenous community, and relaxation on white-sand beaches.

These spectacular landscapes made me feel like I was on another planet—absolutely breathtaking.

Mocoa is a true haven for waterfall lovers—though, between us, I prefer the ones in the Meta department.

Local agencies offer 3 to 5-day tours to explore popular spots like Cascada Fin del Mundo, La Honda, Salto del Indio, the Donde se Oculta el Sol nature reserve, and Mandiyaco Canyon.

To keep things interesting and avoid a repetitive itinerary (waterfalls are great, but I’m no fish), I suggest adding nature-based activities such as visiting the CEA or the Mariposario de Paway (butterfly house).

The atmosphere in Caqueta is similar to that of Putumayo, but there is a bit more diversity in the choice of activities.

If you’re coming all the way here, it would be a shame not to include the rafting activities offered in San Vicente de Caguan. Besides exploring impressive canyons, the local population will share stories about the 50-year armed conflict in Colombia. Alongside these emotionally rich encounters, you’ll stop at the stunning Anayacito waterfall (190 m) and the intriguing Portales del Fragüita.

Edit 2024: rafting at San Vincente de Caguan is currently not possible for safety reasons.

Cerros de Mavecure Inirida Amazon

© Tomplanmytrip

Certain destinations are so far off the beaten path that there are no hotels. Travelers sleep in communities where tents with mattresses have been arranged for them. This was the case for me at Cerros de Mavecure. A few meters away, we had a bucket for a shower and functional toilets—most of the time.

These accommodations are quite adequate, especially given the geographic location. However, you’ll need to set aside some of your usual comforts for a few days.

The major cities in this region are beginning to offer comfortable hotels, though they are not yet on par with the superb boutique hotels found in other, more touristy regions of Colombia.

When local agencies offer multi-day tours, they typically include a “standard” hotel in the package, but travelers can opt for an upgrade at an additional cost.

If you are sensitive to heat and humidity, an air-conditioned hotel might be more comfortable.

So far, I haven’t found any ecolodges that rival those in the Amazon or on the Pacific coast. None offer all-inclusive stays either. However, there are unique accommodations in nature that are worth checking out.

I particularly enjoyed the hotels around Mocoa (the Dantayaco cabins, Paway cabin, Posada de Porta del Sol) and the ecolodges around San José del Guaviare (Nukak and Playa Guio).

Amazon Gateway - Florencia Caqueta

© Tomplanmytrip

Food in Kenke Reserve in Inirida Amazon Gateway Colombia (1)

© Tomplanmytrip

It’s the fastest and easiest way to reach the capitals of these departments. Only small airlines serve them, and there aren’t flights every day. The websites of these companies have improved significantly compared to a few years ago, but you may not be able to access them if you’re outside of Colombia. This is inconvenient because it’s best to book these tickets in advance to ensure availability and get the best prices.

  • To reach Florencia: flights from Bogotá and Cali with Satena & Clicair.
  • To reach Villa Garzon (Mocoa): flights from Bogotá with Satena.
  • To reach San José del Guaviare: flights from Bogotá with Satena and Clicair.
  • To reach Inirida: flights from Bogotá or Villavicencio with Satena.

Except for Inirida, the major cities in this region are fairly well connected by the road network. You just need to be prepared for long hours on the bus. It’s a cheaper and more environmentally friendly option than flying. Overnight buses will save you a lot of time.

  • Mocoa is accessible from Bogotá and Medellín.
  • Florencia is accessible from Bogotá, Cali, and Medellín.
  • San José del Guaviare is accessible from Bogotá and Villavicencio.

As soon as you move away from the big cities, the roads quickly turn into dirt tracks. The public transport used to connect villages is the jeep, where everyone piles into the back. If you want to get to specific places, you’ll need to use private transportation. This could be a tuk-tuk if the destination isn’t too far or a jeep.

Another common option is taking a boat. These trips are usually more expensive (they consume more fuel) but are much faster and more enjoyable. I used boats frequently during my stay in Guainia.

It’s never easy to find private transport at the last minute, so it’s advisable to visit the region with a local agency.

Airport Leticia Amazon Colombia

© Tomplanmytrip

The Cerros de Mavecure and Its Unforgettable Landscapes 4d

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San José Del Guaviare: Explore its wonders in the wet season 4d

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San José Del Guaviare: Explore its wonders in the dry season 4d

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The Cerros de Mavecure and Its Unforgettable Landscapes 5d

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