Colombia Travel Guide
FILANDIA
COLOMBIA
Situated in Quindío, Filandia is a delightful and tranquil colonial village that livens up on weekends but still keeps its authentic charm. A good alternative to Salento as it’s less touristy, Filandia offers excellent restaurants, cafés, and daily public jeeps to Salento and the Cocora Valley. The Barbas Bremen Reserve is also just a short distance away.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT FILANDIA, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
Filandia’s vibrant streets are a visual delight.
Filandia is 1,900 meters above sea level in the Coffee Region (Quindío department). This small colonial village in the Andes natural region is home to 15,000 residents. Filandia is 30 km from both Pereira and Armenia and just 20 km from Salento.
Filandia is the second-oldest village in the region (after Salento). Its economy is mainly based on coffee farming and tourism and inspired Disney’s animated film Encanto. The name Filandia may translate to “Daughter of the Andes.”
Filandia is a quieter (and more charming) alternative to Salento, and a day trip to the Cocora Valley is easy to organize.
The picturesque streets, with their carved and colorful wooden doors, windows, and balconies, are perfect for strolling, spending time with locals and artisans (basketry, coffee, panela), and stopping for a coffee to admire the beautiful countryside.
Filandia is part of the Coffee Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The climate is temperate and humid, much like Salento. The weather alternates year-round between rain and sunshine (with drier mornings), and temperatures range from 22°C during the day to 17°C at night. The sunniest months are July-August and January-February.
It’s a popular spot for Colombians on weekends, especially when Monday is a holiday. For a calmer experience, visit during the week and outside peak seasons.
The village festival typically happens on July 20.
One day is enough to see Filandia; visit the Barbas Bremen Reserve in the morning, then wander around the village in the afternoon (don’t forget to try a basket weaving activity).
If you’re considering staying in Filandia instead of Salento, I recommend staying for 3 nights. This way, you’ll have enough time to visit the Cocora Valley and plan a visit to a coffee and/or panela finca.
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THINGS TO DO IN FILANDIA
A village to be enjoyed step by step, without rushing.
10 calles by 10 carreras, it’s small. I love wandering around, admiring the impressive 200-year-old colonial buildings (stopping every few meters to take another photo with Aleja). The most colorful street is called Calle del Tiempo Detenido (Calle 7).
And don’t forget to visit the main square to see the beautiful Parroquia Inmaculada Concepción church, whose blue and white colors seem almost subdued compared to the vibrant colors of the houses.
Finally, end the day at the Mirador Del Tiempo Detenido to enjoy the sunset over the green plains with a good cup of coffee.
The food scene in Filandia is fantastic and combines perfectly with a relaxed tour of the village—my rule is: one street covered means one delicious stop. Plus, these cafés and restaurants are gorgeously decorated, giving you the feeling of being in a Disney cartoon.
The most well-known restaurant is Helena Adentro—make sure to reserve in advance to enjoy a table with a stunning view!
Basket weaving is the art of creating objects by braiding plant fibers. Filandia traditionally used it to make baskets for collecting coffee beans. Basket weaving is so significant here that it is part of the country’s intangible cultural heritage.
Besides shopping to decorate your home, you can also participate in a workshop (by booking in advance) to weave your own small basket. This activity takes place at the Centro de Interpretación del Bejuco al Canasto. You can also visit to learn about the art of basket weaving, watch the artisans at work, and try to resist buying everything in the store.
It’s a huge wooden structure, 15 meters high, offering a view of Filandia and its surroundings.
The view may not be spectacular, but it’s a lovely one-kilometer walk from the village, passing through the artisan district (San Jose). There are also some informational displays about Filandia. Entrance is paid.
With good roads, many charming villages, and plenty of climbs and descents, it’s no surprise that Filandia and the Coffee Region attract so many cyclists.
The Casa du Velo Hotel is their hidden gem. Here, you’ll find all the gear you need to care for your bike. If you don’t bring one, David will happily rent one. He also offers over 40 cycling routes!
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FILANDIA SURROUNDINGS
Feel free to venture out of Filandia to discover rural life and enjoy the stunning scenery.
Barbas Bremen is a protected natural reserve just 15 minutes by jeep from town, known for its howler monkey population. While their calls (nicknamed “jungle alarms”) make them easy to identify, spotting them is more challenging.
It’s best to go at 6 a.m. when they aren’t hiding from the heat yet. In addition to these intriguing animals, several trails (3 to 5 hours) let you explore the stunning tropical forest ecosystem. A guide is required.
These finca visits are far more authentic (and less crowded) than those in Salento. Run by lovely families, they are happy to show you their farms and explain all the steps involved in producing quality coffee or panela (sugar from sugar cane).
The most renowned coffee fincas are La Palma and Recua. For a panela tour, visit Finca Manamaria.
Jeeps (Willys) connect Filandia to Salento in 45 minutes. From there, another Willy (20 minutes) takes you to the Cocora Valley, famous for its magnificent wax palms (up to 60 meters tall). The longest unguided hike (my favorite) offers stunning views and a pleasant trail through a humid (and often muddy) forest and hanging bridges. It takes about 5 hours if you are in good physical condition. You’ll then have a few hours to visit Salento before returning to Filandia.
The only drawback of this day is that you’ll start the Cocora Valley hike in the late morning, while I prefer to start as early as possible to avoid the crowds and bad weather—around 7 a.m.
The village itself isn’t remarkable, but an unusual activity might draw you to Quimbaya.
Here, balsajes (bamboo rafts) set off on the Rio la Vieja for a 3-hour ride. It’s not easy to organize during the week due to the lack of participants (this is a VERY Colombian experience).
It may not be my cup of coffee tea, but it’s a fun choice for families with young kids. Each park has a unique theme and offers numerous attractions and shows.
You can find PANACA (agriculture), Parque Arrieros (culture), and Parque del Café.
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WHERE TO STAY IN FILANDIA
My favorite hotels in Filandia.
The village of Filandia can get noisy from early morning, and the old houses converted into hotels are not well insulated. To avoid this, consider staying on the outskirts of the village, particularly near Calle del Tiempo Detenido.
I highly recommend Hotel La Puesta del Sol for its stunning views. Alternatively, for a more budget-friendly option, check out Hostal Yerbabuena.
An interesting option to easily enjoy the magical atmosphere of the colonial town and its beautiful countryside. I know several very pleasant places to stay, each with its own unique atmosphere.
There’s:
- Monte Tierra for a romantic glamping stay.
- Casa du Velo for bike enthusiasts.
- Hotel Pie de Chinche for a family-friendly ambiance.
- Steel Horse for living like a cowboy.
The countryside here is stunning, but it’s not ideal if you plan to visit the Cocora Valley by public transport (you’ll be on the wrong side).
If you find accommodation along the road between Filandia and Montenegro, a Willy jeep passes every hour—like at Finca San Miguel.
If you have a car, consider staying at Casa Laureles (30 minutes from Filandia). This restored old coffee finca is surrounded by beautiful flowers and birds.
It’s a smart choice for exploring the Coffee Region, as you’ll be closer to all the tourist sites. However, a rental car is necessary.
Two hotel options here:
- Adelita B&B, a beautiful and comfortable farm filled with animals.
- Hotel Reserva Monarca, which offers breathtaking views.
There’s nothing like staying in a coffee finca to soak up the atmosphere of rural Colombia. Plus, these are often beautiful buildings surrounded by fruit trees and birds. And you can take a coffee tour on-site. Convenient.
I recommend Finca La Playa (run by a French couple with divine food and spectacular views) and Finca Tulipanes (a beautiful house and very comfortable).
GOING OUT IN FILANDIA
My favorite bars in town.
The best bar in town to listen to great music (bolero, tango, salsa) played exclusively on vinyl.
Perfect for a cocktail or a few shared dishes at sunset.
A pleasant atmosphere and unique decor.
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EATING IN FILANDIA
One thing is clear: you’ll leave Filandia with a few extra pounds.
The most well-known restaurant in town, offering delicious Colombian dishes meticulously prepared with local ingredients (sourced from their own garden or local producers) paid fairly for a win-win economy. The dishes are designed to be shared among friends. I loved the hummus and chicharrón.
It’s advisable to book in advance on their page (although it doesn’t always work). Try to secure a terrace table at lunchtime to enjoy the beautiful view!
I’m a huge fan of Pacific Coast cuisine, and Bakuru lives up to its reputation. Andres, the chef, brings in seafood straight from Chocó. Be sure to try one of their cazuelas or the tuna chorizo.
A restaurant famous for its pork shank (order just one for two), located in a stunning and impressive colonial house. The service is also excellent (though a bit slow at times), but the prices are quite high for the town.
It’s the scent that will lure you in as they roast their own coffee beans—excellent coffee, by the way. Make sure to enjoy it with one of their homemade cakes. They are delicious.
Delicious salt-free dishes prepared in an open kitchen. Try their specialty, the wok. There is often live music, and Chef Jorge enjoys mingling with the guests.
© Helena Adentro
HOW TO GET TO FILANDIA
And getting around.
The most important airport is in Pereira. It is 1 hour from Filandia. Armenia is also an hour away, but it has fewer flights.
Direct buses run to Filandia all day (more frequent departures from Armenia). Travel time: 1 hour.
Jeeps run between Filandia and Salento. Departures are (almost) every hour, and the journey takes 40 minutes. Buying your ticket in advance is best, especially for the return trip.
Jeeps leave from the main square in Filandia to the nearby villages. You can also take taxis directly to the airports.
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IS FILANDIA SAFE?
I never felt unsafe in Filandia, day or night.
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itineraries
How to include Filandia in your trip to Colombia.
After Medellin, take the bus to Salamina (2 nights) to visit the Samaria wax palms. Then enjoy Manizales (3 nights) and its surroundings (birdwatching, hot springs) before discovering Filandia (2 nights)—no need to visit the Cocora Valley as it’s similar to Samaria.
Stay in Salento to visit the wax palms and embark on a multi-day trek in Los Nevados. Afterward, head to Filandia for 2 restful nights in a lovely coffee finca.
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