Colombia Travel Guide
SALENTO
COLOMBIA
Salento is a picturesque colonial village in Quindío, perched above a lovely valley. It’s a top tourist spot in Colombia, though its popularity has driven many locals away. It’s also the main gateway to the Cocora Valley and its iconic wax palms, and for treks in Los Nevados. There are many beautiful places to stay.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT SALENTO, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
The most visited destination in the coffee region.
Salento is a small colonial village located at an altitude of 2,000 meters in Quindío, one of the three departments that make up the Coffee Triangle in the Andean natural region.
The two closest cities are Armenia (25 km) and Pereira (15 km).
Following the massacre of the Quimbaya indigenous people, settlers established the village of Boquía in 1842 (after a short visit by Simón Bolívar, who recognized the region’s economic potential). It was only in 1908 that the village of Salento was officially founded.
Tourists visit Salento primarily for the Cocora Valley and its iconic wax palms (up to 60 meters high).
While the village is nice to visit, it’s not my favorite in the region: it is far too crowded with tourists for my liking.
A great alternative is to stay in Filandia.
The average temperature is 20°C during the day and 15°C in the evening. It rains a lot (especially in April-May and October-November), so don’t forget your raincoat and a sweater. The sunniest months are June-August and January-February.
Avoid the high season between December 20 and January 15, weekends (especially those with a holiday Monday), and Easter week.
The town celebrates its anniversary on September 16.
You can make it a day trip if you have a rental car or are staying nearby. If you choose to stay in Salento, 1 or 2 nights will be enough, as there are other more strategic locations to use as a base for exploring the region.
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HOW TO VISIT COCORA VALLEY
Salento’s most famous tourist site.
Jeeps (Willys) depart from Salento every 30 minutes, with a journey time of about 25 minutes. Once there, you have several options to choose from.
This is the official entry point.
From here, you’ll quickly view the wax palms and enjoy several scenic viewpoints as you ascend to Finca La Montaña (approximately 1.5 hours). You can then choose to turn back or take the long loop (another 4 hours of hiking).
Ideal for travelers who don’t want to walk long distances but still want to take nice photos.
This is a small entrance for the long hike (12 km, 6 hours, 800m elevation gain).
The trail follows the river before entering the humid forest. It then climbs steeply to Finca La Montaña before descending back to the official entrance.
It is also possible to take a detour to observe the hummingbirds in the Acaime Reserve.
Ideal for hikers who want to avoid tourists.
- Start as early as possible because it regularly rains in the afternoons and there will be a lot more people.
- Bring cash, as there are several checkpoints to pay.
- Entering through the blue gate will make the hike more challenging.
- Most people do it without a guide, but I recommend downloading the map on Maps.Me—just in case.
- The trail will be muddy. Wear good shoes.
- La Carbonera: Located 1.5 hours from Salento by Jeep. There are 100 times more palm trees than in the Cocora Valley.
- La Samaria: Located 1.5 hours from Salamina by Jeep.
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THINGS TO DO IN SALENTO
Visit the colonial town and the coffee farms.
The atmosphere of Salento, with its colorful doors, is perfect for a one- to two-hour stroll.
Explore the main square and grab lunch in a good restaurant.
Then buy souvenirs in the calle real before heading to the Mirador de l’Alto de la Cruz for a pleasant view of the surroundings.
There are many well-organized coffee fincas accustomed to hosting tourists. To avoid the crowds, visit in the morning.
The most famous ones are El Ocaso (4.5 km), Don Elias (4.6 km), El Recuerdo (5.2 km), and Buenos Aires (6.6km).
They are all located in the same area (towards Armenia).
Arranging a few hours of horseback riding to explore the surrounding countryside is easy—multiple good agencies are located in the village (Paseos Caballo or Calbagatas).
This activity can also be paired with a visit to the Santa Rita waterfall or a coffee finca.
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SALENTO SURROUNDINGS
Colonial villages, hiking, and thermal baths.
From Salento, you can take a 45-minute jeep ride from the main square to reach Filandia. This village is known for its colorful streets, surrounded by coffee fields and the Barbas Bremen reserve (where howler monkeys live).
If you’re up for a drive, there are two other villages I enjoy. Having a rental car is recommended, as public transport takes a bit longer from Salento (requiring a transfer in Armenia).
Buenavista is a small village perched on a hill with stunning views. Pijao is an even more tranquil alternative to Filandia, offering a long hike in a páramo.
Due to strong volcanic activity, there are several hot springs in the area.
Santa Rosa de Cabal has the most well-known hot springs. The property is beautiful, with lovely flower gardens and a waterfall. However, it often gets crowded, and the three pools remind me of a bit of a municipal pool (not very natural). The journey can be a bit long, as you need to take a bus to Pereira, another bus to Santa Rosa de Cabal, and finally a jeep to the hot springs (about 2.5 hours one way). It’s better to take a tour and combine it with another activity (visit a coffee finca, horseback riding).
The San Vicente hot springs offer a more “natural” option. However, they are even further away. The best option is to stop there on the way back from the Santa Isabel trek, as it’s right on the route. I loved soaking in these hot pools in the middle of the mountains after a 3-day hike in the páramos.
If you do the 5-day Nevados trek from Salento to Ibague, you can also enjoy 100% natural hot springs on the way.
There are other hikes besides Cocora Valley.
Multi-day hikes in Los Nevados National Park are the ideal option if you want to discover a páramo. There are several routes, depending on your fitness level and the natural sites you wish to explore. Generally, travelers opt for a glacier ascent (the agency provides all the equipment), such as Nevado Santa Isabel or Nevado Tolima. Another popular (and less demanding) route passes through the Cocora Valley and Otun Lagoon.
The Santa Rita Waterfall is a good option for families who don’t want to walk too long (beware of crowds on Sundays). You cross tunnels and suspension bridges. It takes about an hour to reach the waterfall from Salento. There is an entrance fee.
The Cerro Morrogacho is a long (and steep) hike you can do from Cocora (note that you won’t see the giant palms if you take this route). A large dog has attacked several travelers, so it’s better to avoid it.
The excursion to Cerro Machin is an excellent alternative to the Cocora Valley because you can see a more impressive grove of wax palms less frequented by tourists (La Carbonera). Then, a one-hour hike leads to the Machin Volcano crater. You can then soak in the hot springs before returning to Salento. It’s an easy day, but it involves long hours in a 4×4.
A beautiful mountain biking route that doesn’t require too much experience. The agency takes you by jeep to La Carbonera for a picnic in front of the stunning wax palms. Then, it’s a 30 km downhill ride back to Salento.
The only drawback is the potential for rain.
Colombia is a birdwatcher’s paradise, and the coffee fincas are a perfect spot for birdwatching.
The surroundings of Salento also offer beautiful places to admire the famous Andean motmot, cock-of-the-rocks, as well as tanagers and hummingbirds.
And you can head to La Carbonera to observe the yellow-eared parrots.
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WHERE TO STAY IN SALENTO
My favorite hotels in Salento.
There are plenty of hotels in Salento. If you stay in town, you can take an early jeep to the Cocora Valley.
These are the hotels I like: Hostal Coffee Tree, Casa Salento, Terrazas de Salento, Kawa Mountain retreat and the apartments at Parallelo loft.
A strategic choice for easily accessing other tourist attractions around Salento (except for the Cocora Valley, which is on the other side) if you have a rental car.
I like the following accommodations: Jerome’s Airbnbs, Posada Aguanile, Mirador de Boquia and Finca La Adelita.
Being near the Cocora Valley makes it easier to arrive early. Some hotels provide transport options, so you don’t need to go back to Salento to take the jeep.
My favorite hotels are: la Reserva Guadalajara, Ecohotel Pinohermoso et Lumbre Glamping.
Make the most of your stay in Salento by sleeping in unconventional accommodations.
There are beautiful, traditional fincas with animals and coffee plantations, amazing glamping options for a romantic getaway, and nature reserves for nature lovers.
GOING OUT IN SALENTO
My favorite places to have a good time.
It’s a Colombian game where you throw metal discs into a box filled with clay and drink beers. The most fun part? Paper triangles filled with gunpowder are placed on the target and explode upon impact with the disc. It’s loud and exhilarating! The place is called Cancha Los Amigos.
You’ll find billiard tables even in the smallest, most remote villages in Colombia. You can play on Calle Real.
A perfect place to drink craft beers and appreciate the sunset view.
A nice bar illuminated by candles with frequent live music.
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EATING IN SALENTO
My favorite cafes and restaurants.
Stop by here before heading to the Cocora Valley—they open at 6 AM. They prepare lunch boxes, offer hiking advice, and serve delicious breakfasts.
A nice place to eat healthy, even if it costs a bit more.
Perfect for a classic but delicious menu del dia (lunch or dinner). Economical prices.
A tasty chocolate croissant to enjoy with a coffee.
A tucked-away café (above a store) offering stunning mountain views.
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HOW TO GET TO SALENTO
And getting around.
The main airport is in Pereira, about 1 hour from Salento. Armenia is also an hour away by car, though it has fewer flights.
There are direct buses to Salento all day (with more frequent departures from Armenia). The trip takes 1 hour.
Jeeps run between Filandia and Salento. Departures are (almost) every hour, and the journey takes 45 min. Buy your ticket in advance if you can.
You’ll need to take the morning chiva to Riosucio (4 hours) and then another bus to Salento (3 hours).
Jeeps depart from Salento to various coffee fincas, the Cocora Valley, and surrounding villages. Buy your ticket in advance at the main square. You can also take taxis directly to the airports.
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IS SALENTO SAFE?
Salento is a peaceful colonial village, and I’ve never had any issues walking around during the day or early evening. Be cautious if you plan to explore Los Nevados National Park without a guide, as the path is not marked.
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ITINERARIES
How to include Salento in your trip to Colombia
Ideal as a base for visiting the coffee region, with a day in the Cocora Valley + Salento (private tour or rental car).
Pereira, then Salento (2 nights), followed by 2 nights in Pijao to experience a more authentic village (visit a coffee farm, go paragliding). Next, head to Cali or Ibagué.
Spend 2 or 3 nights in Salento, and then stay in one of the amazing lodgings near Manizales.
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