Visit Macuira National Park: a Hidden Oasis in La Guajira
Editeur
Update
The La Macuira National Park is a fascinating blend of diverse and contrasting landscapes, such as arid desert and cloud forest, hosting a rich variety of flora and fauna. It’s my favorite spot in La Guajira.
Accessing it is challenging, so it’s best to use a Riohacha-based agency to organize your adventure there. La Macuira is also a cultural hub for the Wayuu people.
Edit 05/2024: We completely revised this article.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT THE MACUIRA NATIONAL PARK
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
An incredible cloud forest hidden in the midst of the desert.
The Macuira National Natural Park is located in the northeastern part of the La Guajira Peninsula, in the department of the same name, within the Caribbean region of Colombia. The park is over five hours by road from Cabo de La Vela and four hours from Punta Gallinas, and the nearest municipality is the Wayuu village of Nazareth.
It is one of the 60 national parks in Colombia.
Covering an area of 25,000 hectares, the Macuira National Natural Park was established in 1977 to preserve the incredible biodiversity of the Macuira Mountain Range (Serranía de Macuira). Its highest peak reaches 865 meters, and it boasts an astonishing hydrological system in one of the driest regions.
The Macuira Park is also the land of the Wayuú people, named after their Makui ancestors. Isolated from the outside world, the Indigenous community sustains itself through local agriculture while honoring their traditions. The park is home to significant sites in Wayuú legends, such as “la Piedra de Wolunka“.
Exploring Macuira Park means admiring an exceptional contrast of astonishing landscapes, cooling off under waterfalls in the middle of the desert, and observing a rich biodiversity of fauna and flora. As a sanctuary for bird protection, the park also delights ornithologists.
Visiting Macuira is also entering the sacred territory of the Wayuú people, guardians of this unique ecosystem. Arriving at the park is an opportunity in itself to experience a true adventure in the desert.
It’s here that I had the most interactions with the Wayúu.
The presence of the Macuira mountain range in the middle of a desert area creates a tropical microclimate in Macuira Park, characterized by warmth and humidity. The average daytime temperature hovers around 28°C.
The ideal time to visit Macuira National Natural Park is during the dry season, from December to April. Following the rainy season, this period offers a chance to swim in waterfalls, and the vegetation is lush green.
The park typically closes from August to November due to heavy rains and flooding, which make the dirt roads from Uribia to Nazareth impassable.
To fully enjoy the park and avoid the intense heat, I recommend visiting early in the morning. You’ll have a better chance to observe the wildlife and flora.
To visit Macuira Park, you need to get to Nazareth, the gateway to the park. Expect several hours of travel by jeep through the desert.
Most travelers visit the park as part of a tour with an agency, which is by far the best option unless you’re a very adventurous backpacker.
With an agency, you’ll spend a night in Nazareth before setting out to explore the park early the next morning (about a 6-hour hike).
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Visiting Macuira Park
Welcome to an extraordinary yet still unknown oasis.
The exploration of the park begins in the company of your Wayuú guide, crossing sandy, shaded, and flat terrain.
After an hour of peaceful walking and several river crossings, you will arrive at La Piedra de Wolunka, a sacred place for the Wayuú marked by large stones above the river. According to legend, this is where the myth of the Wayuú people‘s founding began.
Soon, along the way, you’ll begin to see immense dunes of golden sand surrounded by lush vegetation.
In Wayuú tradition, the Aliwalu dunes are a traditional meeting place for community members who come to celebrate important events. As you climb to the top, you’ll be struck by the astonishing landscape of curves and hollows that stand out against the sky.
Be mindful, depending on the time of day, your guide may prevent you from climbing all the way to the top of the dunes to avoid discomfort from the intense sunlight — as was the case for us.
On the way back, you’ll make a welcome stop at the natural pool of a waterfall amidst the vegetation.
I loved this moment when everything felt peaceful. There was no sound except for the flowing water and the birds. In short, I felt like I was in a Walt Disney movie.
Note that swimming is only possible after the rainy season — afterward, there isn’t enough water.
In addition to the 6-hour hike in Macuira Park with a local guide, to whom you can ask all your questions, you’ll also have the opportunity to learn more about Wayuu culture during your evening in Nazareth — if you’ve chosen a good local agency.
- Children demonstrated a very special dance, the Yonna, which is performed during various joyful occasions throughout the year (e.g., the arrival of rain when a young girl becomes a woman).
- We also met a local artist and poet who, through his art, tells the Wayúu legends and the challenges his people face.
To fully enjoy these moments, it’s preferable to have a good level of Spanish. Alternatively, you can opt for a four-day excursion with a translator.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY IN THE Macuira PARK
Staying overnight in the village of Nazareth.
You will spend the night in the village of Nazareth, the main municipality in this part of La Guajira. Life here is gentler compared to Punta Gallinas and Cabo de La Vela, thanks to the water resources provided by the privileged ecosystem of La Serranía de Macuira.
In Nazareth, you will find various hotels that, while basic, are surprisingly comfortable, with beds and air conditioning (electricity is cut off at 10 PM).
Note that very few hotels in Nazareth are listed on the Booking platform. If you come alone, you will need to make your choice on-site. I recommend going through an agency that will organize your stay for you.
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HOW TO GET TO Macuira PARK
Macuira Park is a sublime site with difficult access.
If you decide to come alone to Macuira, prepare for a real challenge.
First, you need to travel to Riohacha, the capital of the La Guajira department. There are direct flights from Medellin and Bogota. You can also take a bus from Cartagena (7 hours) or Santa Marta (3 hours).
From Riohacha, make your way to Uribia (1-hour trip), from where a Chiva departs for Nazareth every week (typically on Sundays in 2023), which is a traditional open bus in Colombia. Expect a 9-hour trip through the desert on rough roads with frequent breakdowns. Make sure to check departure times, be patient, and rely on your luck!
This is the most reliable option and the one I recommend.
During this four-day tour starting from Riohacha, you will visit Cabo de La Vela before heading to Macuira. Then, you will finish your exploration of La Guajira with Punta Gallinas before returning to Riohacha.
Group departures are not daily but are still frequent. There is also the option of affordable private tours.
Access to Macuira National Park is controlled to preserve its unique and fragile ecosystem, which is vital for the Wayuú people. Entry is subject to a fee, and upon arrival, you must register at the park office. At the end of your excursion, you will return to the same office to record your departure time and may be asked to complete a satisfaction questionnaire.
Register at the park office before 12:00 PM if you plan to visit Macuira Park on the same day.
The only requirement is to be accompanied by a Wayuú guide inside the park.
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iS LA MACUIRA SAFE?
Macuira National Natural Park is a safe place, especially since you will be accompanied by your guide at all times. The region is managed by the Wayuú community, including security aspects.
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Tips & Information
Some useful tips for exploring Macuira Park without any hassle.
Travel light and smart; that’s the secret to your trip to Macuira Park. Forget the giant bags that will only cause you trouble and opt for a backpack that will allow you to carry the essentials easily.
Among the basics, don’t forget:
- Comfortable clothes (light long-sleeved shirts to protect you from the sun and sand), a small sweater for the evening, and a hat or cap.
- A headlamp and an external battery (electricity is cut off after 10 pm).
- Basic medications (Imodium).
- Sunscreen and insect repellent.
Many agencies offer tours in La Guajira, including the same sites, but the quality of service can vary greatly – believe me, I learned the hard way!
Some agencies operate without proper authorizations (and therefore without insurance).
Here are the essential criteria to consider before choosing your agency:
- Robust, well-maintained 4×4 cars, with air conditioning if possible.
- Experienced drivers who prioritize passenger safety. If they are friendly, even better, as they will also serve as guides.
- A clear program with well-managed logistics, including contingencies, and a good network of local contacts.
- A responsible and sustainable tourism approach that highlights Wayuú culture.
- A detailed package outlining essentials such as water, type of accommodation (hammock, bed), and planned meals.
The main advantages of going on a tour are the guarantee of fewer unexpected issues, a plan B if necessary, and better organization. Know that going alone won’t save you much money (a few dozen dollars per person for a 3-day circuit), and if you don’t speak Spanish well, you’ll have a hard time getting by.
On my last expedition, our guide wisely decided to leave at 3 AM to avoid strike movements, and I met two backpackers stranded in Cabo de La Vela.
Considering that the desert roads are unmarked and navigation is done by sight, it’s better to rely on the experience of a seasoned driver.
An agency will also offer you the opportunity to meet the Wayuú people, an essential added value for the success of your experience in La Guajira.
There are no ATMs in Nazareth. You will need cash, preferably in small denominations, for your expenses and to buy a nice bag from the Wayuú women you will meet in the park.
You saw it: getting to Macuira Park requires long jeep rides through a demanding desert environment, so being in good shape is essential for this adventure.
There’s also a 6-hour hike in Macuira Park. The guide adapts to the traveler’s pace, and the goal isn’t to go full speed. But it’s not a walk in the park either. I’d rate the difficulty as 3/5.
Even the most experienced agency isn’t immune to unexpected events, so patience is key. And remember, the unexpected adds spice to your experience.
© Tomplanmytrip
itineraries
How to include Macuira Park in your trip to Colombia
This 4-day, 3-night tour starts from Riohacha and takes you to Cabo de La Vela (1 night), then to Nazareth to visit Macuira National Park (1 night). You’ll finish your experience in La Guajira by visiting Punta Gallinas (1 night) before returning to Riohacha.
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Plan your experience to Macuira Park
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La Guajira : Cabo de la Vela, Punta Gallinas & Macuira park 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Enjoy 4 days of adventure in the La Guajira desert, with a mix of classic and new destinations.
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