Colombia Travel Guide
Palomino
Colombia
Formerly peaceful, Palomino has lost some of its charm as it became the most famous village on the eastern part of Colombia’s Caribbean coast. The main activities include relaxing at your hotel, surfing, or tubing down the nearby rivers. Because of strong currents, the area isn’t suitable for swimming. There are, however, lots of things to do around.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT PALOMINO, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
A tourist coastal town nestled between the sea and mountains.
Palomino is a coastal village with 3,500 inhabitants located on the Caribbean coast in the department of La Guajira. Nestled at the foot of the high Sierra Nevada mountains, I love watching the snow-capped peaks on sunny days from the beach. Palomino is 2 hours from Santa Marta, 1 hour from Tayrona, and 1.5 hours from Riohacha.
Palomino, a former Wiwa territory in pre-Colombian times, is part of the Dibulla municipality. For many years, it was a battleground where the FARC and paramilitary forces clashed for control over drug trafficking. The situation has significantly improved since 2007, and Palomino has attracted many foreign tourists—too quickly, as there are numerous infrastructure issues (water, electricity, sewage, roads).
Due to its proximity to the Sierra Nevada, the indigenous Kogis and Arhuaco from neighboring communities regularly come to Palomino for shopping or to perform certain sea rituals.
Let’s be clear. Palomino is not for everyone. Don’t come here expecting a cool, authentic village with beautiful beaches. There are more tourists than locals, swimming is dangerous, and the beaches are nothing special and have almost disappeared due to erosion.
However, Palomino has its good points. Besides its well-known tubing activities, It is a great base for exploring the nearby Sierra Nevada and the Guajira desert. It also boasts good hotels and excellent vegetarian restaurants—a rarity in Colombian coastal villages. Palomino’s “healthy” vibe is due to the numerous spiritual and wellness retreats regularly organized in the area.
It’s more suitable for groups of young friends or couples rather than families or elderly people.
Palomino has a tropical humid climate (25-30 degrees) and its proximity to the Sierra Nevada makes the weather extremely variable. It can rain heavily in a short amount of time, often causing floods and huge puddles in the dirt roads. The rainiest months are May, September, and October.
But there are also many sunny days when the sun is very strong. The main dry season runs from December to March.
Due to its popularity, prices rise quickly during the high season (Colombian holidays, from mid-December to mid-January).
- Best waves for surfing: December to August.
- Best periods for tubing: May to January.
One night is enough to discover Palomino. Arrive in the morning to organize a tubing activity, then enjoy the village atmosphere in the early evening before continuing to the Guajira desert the next day.
Spiritual retreats also last an average of 3 to 4 days. The same goes if you want to take surfing or freediving lessons.
Another option is to use Palomino as a base to explore the region. Between visiting Indigenous communities, expeditions into the desert, hikes in the Sierra Nevada, and relaxing days at the hotel, your stay can last a week.
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THINGS TO DO IN PALOMINO
Here are a few activities to add to your stay alongside tubing.
Tubing is the main activity in Palomino. The farther you go inland, the longer your descent on the river will be. The most common option is a 20-minute moto-taxi ride, followed by a 30-minute walk with your inner tube and then 2.5 hours of tubing.
To make the most of it, I like to bring a few beers and a dry bag to keep my things from getting wet. It’s also essential to protect yourself from the sun.
During the dry season, tubing can sometimes be impossible because there isn’t enough water.
Another alternative (which I find better) is tubing in Rio Don Diego (30 minutes by bus from Palomino). I saw a lot of howler monkeys there, and you can do it all year round. You can combine it with a visit to the Taironaka site.
Not many travelers know they can visit Finca La Mello, which recently opened, for a horseback ride. It offers several options, ranging from 1 to 4 hours, to explore the flora of the Sierra Nevada and follow the Rio San Salvador to its mouth on the beach.
Even though the Palomino beach isn’t very pleasant and the currents are dangerous, there are still plenty of water activities.
- Surfing and bodyboarding: This area has waves year-round, perfect for learning to surf. The few surf schools are right on the beach.
- Freediving: There’s always at least one freediving instructor in a place that promotes wellness and meditation. Here, the expert is Val.
- Paddleboarding and kayaking: The Palomino and San Salvador rivers are the go-to spots. A great way to enjoy the scenery in peace.
The proximity of Palomino to the Sierra Nevada (a sacred site for the indigenous peoples of the region) and its rather hippie vibe have attracted many yoga, meditation, and massage instructors. If you want to care for your body and mind, this is your place!
- Massage: The Colibri Mar Spa Center and Gerson’s massages work wonders.
- Yoga: Besides the Niuvaluna yoga center, hotels like Aite and Selina offer yoga classes.
- Various retreats, like in Casa Chapolin.
The Palomino beach is flanked by two river mouths: the Palomino River (a 30-minute walk) and the San Salvador River (a 1-hour walk). It’s a pleasant walk early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
This is also an activity offered by the Dogshelter Café Palomino—you’ll explore Palomino and its surroundings with a guide and many adorable animals.
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PALOMINO SURROUNDINGS
Between excursions to the Guajira desert or the Sierra Nevada.
I quickly get bored of lounging on the beach. Fortunately, there are several hikes to do in the area:
- Quebrada Valencia: 30 minutes by bus from Palomino, then a 30-minute walk to discover a series of 8 natural pools. The entrance fee is a few USD. No guide needed.
- Tayrona: A very popular national park with beautiful beaches. You can choose to stay overnight (which I recommend) or make a day trip. No guide needed.
- Lost City Trek: The most famous trek in Colombia. A 4-day hike in the Sierra Nevada to discover the ruins (terraces) of the ancient Tairona civilization. Well-organized group excursions.
- Bunkuany: A more affordable and shorter alternative to the Lost City—3 days. The archaeological site is less impressive, but there are far fewer visitors, and the trek focuses more on indigenous culture.
Three indigenous ethnic groups live on this side of the Sierra Nevada: the Koguis, Wiwas, and Arhuacos. They reside in numerous small communities, isolated from the modern world. Some of these, like Quebrada del Sol, occasionally accept travelers. I found the experience even more enriching when we were allowed to spend the night in one of these communities, participating in various daily tasks (weaving, farming, cooking).
The Taironaka site is also a great place to step back in time. The goal here is to revive the Tairona culture. There is a small museum with artifacts found during excavations, and a guided tour around reconstructed terraces where the ancient Tairona community once lived. Our guide was a young Kogui, and our worlds are so different that it was not easy to understand his explanations. It’s possible to combine this visit with a tubing excursion on the Rio Don Diego.
Besides the Sierra Nevada, the La Guajira desert is also home to a significant indigenous culture: the Wayuus. The most interesting experience is to share their daily life in a rancheria.
There are 3 or 4-day excursions from Riohacha to explore the Guajira desert. It’s a jeep adventure that takes you to incredible sites like Cabo de la Vela, Punta Gallinas, and Macuira National Park (my favorite).
You can ask your local agency to book a taxi from Palomino to Riohacha early in the morning to start your desert adventure.
The Sanctuary of the Flamingos is located 1 hour from Palomino. The main activity is to get into a small boat propelled by the wind with a small sail (or by arm strength when there’s no other choice) to approach the flamingos silently. This activity lasts between 1 and 2 hours. Be aware that some months of the year, they are seldom there. Check in advance.
Colombia is renowned not only for its coffee but also for its cacao, and the Sierra Nevada region is perfect for growing cacao.
You can visit Polo at La Selvita to see his cacao plantation (which also has plenty of fruit trees) and taste the chocolate made there. Logistically, it’s a bit of a challenge, requiring a 20-minute drive followed by a 20-minute walk in the mountains.
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WHERE TO STAY IN PALOMINO
My favorite hotels in Palomino.
The village of Palomino primarily extends between the main coastal road and the beach, spanning about 2 km in width.
The main street, Calle 6a, hosts most of the hotels, bars, and restaurants (and therefore potentially the most noise). Prices increase the closer you get to the beach.
The parallel streets, Calle 6 and Calle 10a, are rapidly developing but tend to be quieter unless a neighbor decides to blast loud music because it’s the weekend—a common occurrence on the Caribbean coast.
Choose this area of Palomino if you’re looking for a hotel with a good price/quality ratio and if you plan to explore the village and/or take the bus to visit the surroundings.
I recommend the following hotels: Coco Sänkala Hostel, Casa del Pavo Real, Casa Chapolin and Nuba Boutique.
Since the Palomino beach isn’t very pleasant due to erosion, I recommend choosing a hotel with a large property, so your room is set back in a beautiful garden. And don’t forget to read the reviews about the food quality—because you’ll probably be too lazy to walk to a restaurant.
The good news is that the neighbor with the giant speaker shouldn’t be able to bother you (it’s quiet). However, I find the prices quite high for Colombia.
Choose this part of Palomino if your budget allows it and if you plan to stay and relax without moving around too much.
Since most tourists want to be by the sea, it’s possible to find good accommodations at reasonable prices on the other side of the road, in lush nature. For example, Finca La Mello offers great lodging (with its beautiful horses).
And if you’re willing to walk a bit, you can also stay at Finca La Selvita (the one that makes chocolate).
I’ve also heard about a newcomer to luxury accommodations: Hotel Tewimake, located just before Taironaka. The price is high for the area, but the hotel looks promising. It’s worth a try!
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GOING OUT IN PALOMINO
Quiet on weekdays. “Loco” on weekends.
They regularly host parties at the hostel bar.
The ideal place to enjoy a cocktail or a beer on the beach at the end of the day.
This is where everyone buys a bottle of booze and drinks them on-site.
This is where the best electro parties on the Caribbean coast are held, with djs from all over the world. Check out their Instagram for upcoming parties.
© Tomplanmytrip
EATING IN PALOMINO
My favorite cafés and restaurants in Palomino.
Palomino is the only village on the Caribbean coast offering so many great vegetarian options. I loved the breakfast at Jardin Del Pavo Real, the daily menus by Salomé at Laurel Vegan Bistro, the brunches at Holss, and the sweet treats at La Sierrita.
An excellent evening option with an unbeatable happy hour for the cocktail of the day and a menu that changes regularly. The atmosphere is pleasant, with soft background music. French cuisine.
There’s even a gluten-free restaurant in Palomino. Angelica offers excellent sweet and savory dishes.
A more classic (but equally delicious) restaurant for Colombian dishes. Ideal for the daily menu.
Another alternative is La Sierra Bonita (better for the evening).
A high-end restaurant specializing in seafood and fish. The ceviche and cazuela are two must-try options.
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How to get to palomino
And getting around.
The most frequent buses (every 15 minutes, from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.) depart from Carrera 9 con Calle 11. Tell the driver you want to get off at Palomino—the trip takes about 2 hours. The buses look like city buses, and you’ll need to keep your luggage with you.
Some buses leave from the terminal outside the city. These buses are more comfortable, but there are fewer departures.
Go to the Riohacha bus station and catch the next bus. The journey takes about 1h20. Shared-taxis are also available.
It’s a bit more complicated because you need to take 2 buses. Take the bus from the entrance of Minca village and ask the driver to drop you off at La Bomba (gas station). From there, catch another bus to Palomino. If everything goes smoothly, it will take about three hours.
Private transport is also a good option in this case.
Nothing could be simpler. Just stand by the side of the road and wave at all the buses heading to Palomino (in the opposite direction of Santa Marta). The drivers will usually stop.
Palomino isn’t very big, but depending on where you are, you might quickly get tired of walking along Calle 6 to get to the beach or your favorite restaurant. Just ask your hotel to call you a moto-taxi or a tuk-tuk (more convenient with luggage). The fare in Palomino is fixed.
The best way to explore the surroundings is by taking the bus or a shared taxi. Buses leave from Calle 6a, and shared taxis are parked next to the gas station (across from the buses). There’s only one road, so you can’t get lost. Just remember to return before 5 pm—after that, it gets dark, and there are no more buses.
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IS PALOMINO SAFE?
When do you need to be careful.
The lighting in Palomino is quite dim, and it can be a bit unsettling to walk alone on this long, dusty street at night. I’ve done it many times without any issues, and Palomino is generally considered quite safe, though you might occasionally encounter some sketchy individuals. This part of the Caribbean coast is more or less controlled by paramilitary groups, and they are strict with criminals.
Always confirm the situation in Palomino with your hotel.
This is the only coastal road between Santa Marta and Riohacha (passing through Palomino). Drivers tend to drive very fast on this road, so be careful if you walk on the side or have a rental car. And don’t hitchhike.
Because of the waves and currents, it’s advised not to swim in Palomino—unless you have a surfboard or other equipment.
© Tomplanmytrip
MY LAST TIPS
To enjoy Palomino even more.
Want to enjoy a beautiful beach and go swimming? I recommend the Rosario Islands, Rincon del Mar, Isla Fuerte, or Capurgana.
There will be mosquitoes and sandflies depending on the season—I hate them! I recommend buying Nopikex to protect yourself.
Due to frequent power outages, limited Airbnb options, and slow internet speed, it’s not the ideal place to work online.
There are no ATMs in Palomino, and restaurants/hotels that accept credit cards add a 5 to 10% surcharge due to bank fees.
If you drink the tap water, you might get an unpleasant surprise.
© Tomplanmytrip
itineraries
How to include Palomino in your trip to Colombia.
Arrive at Riohacha Airport from Bogota and plan a 4-day stay in the Guajira desert. Then, take a taxi to Palomino for 2 nights of relaxation in a comfortable hotel, before heading to Tayrona (3 nights) and then Santa Marta.
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Favorite experiences around palomino
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La Guajira : Kitesurfing trips in Punta Gallinas 5d
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Enjoy one of the destinations with the best wind conditions in the country to kite in a fabulous landscape.
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La Guajira : Kitesurfing course 3d
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Kite in different spots adapted to your level, with perfect wind conditions.
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