Colombia Travel Guide
La Guajira
Colombia
Located at the northern tip of the South American continent, the La Guajira desert is a mix of wild expanses, myths, and legends. Exploring La Guajira means discovering breathtaking landscapes and immersing yourself in the fascinating culture of its indigenous people, the Wayuú. Here, there’s no great comfort but a true adventure that will delight the most daring.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT LA GUAJIRA AND ITS DESERT
For making smart choices quickly and effortlessly.
general overview
Fabulous scenery in Wayuú territory and guaranteed adventure.
Located at the northeastern tip of the country on the Caribbean coast, La Guajira is one of Colombia’s 32 departments.
La Guajira, bordering Venezuela, spans 20,848 km². Its capital is Riohacha, and the second-largest municipality is Uribia. Ecologically, La Guajira hosts a variety of ecosystems, with the desert predominating under the influence of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the southwest.
Traditionally, La Guajira is divided into three zones: Alta Guajira, Media Guajira, and Baja Guajira.
La Guajira, the poorest department in the country, is the cradle of the Wayuú (“Guajiros“), the largest indigenous people of Colombia and Venezuela, who make up 45% of the department’s population, just over one million. La Guajira is home to three national parks.
Visitors come to La Guajira to marvel at an immense and sublime canvas of desert expanses plunging into the turquoise sea and wonderful sunsets. Astonishing ecosystems like those at La Macuira enchant nature enthusiasts and bird watchers, and budding ethnologists will be captivated by the culture of the Wayuú, the keepers of La Guajira.
With its consistent winds, tranquil sea, and stunning landscapes, La Guajira is also a kite surfer’s paradise for enthusiasts worldwide.
For me, La Guajira signifies adventure in a remarkable setting with tough and demanding natural conditions.
The climate of La Guajira is mainly arid, hot, and windy all year round, with high humidity levels in certain areas. The average daytime temperature is 28°C, rarely dropping below 20°C at night.
The hottest months are from mid-July to the end of September.
The rainy season lasts from October to November. Heavy rains muddy the paths and are quickly impassable, so it’s not a good time to venture into the desert of La Guajira. May is also a rainy month.
The constant winds make kite surfing possible almost year-round—except in October and November when the afternoon sea breezes stop, and the wind drops.
From a climatic perspective, the ideal times to visit La Guajira are from December to April and June to August. Still, I recommend avoiding the high season, which runs from mid-December to mid-January, Holy Week, and long weekends (national holidays).
Macuira Park usually closes from August to November.
To discover the desert of La Guajira, I advise booking a tour from Riohacha.
A 3-day (2-night) tour will take you to Cabo de La Vela and Punta Gallinas, while a 4-day (3-night) tour will also take you to La Macuira National Park. For easier logistics, you might want to sleep in Riohacha before your trip.
You can also spend a few days relaxing in Palomino (1.5 hours by bus south of Riohacha), a popular spot among young travelers, or in Dibulla (1 hour by taxi from Riohacha), a quieter and more authentic coastal village.
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Visit THE Alta Guajira
The Alta Guajira is a remote and fabulous place in the Wayuú’s sacred land.
La Macuira National Park is my favorite spot in La Guajira, an oasis in the middle of the desert. This natural gem hosts an amazing biodiversity of flora and fauna. With vast dunes and unexpected waterfalls, get ready for an adventure in the land of Wayuú legends. The gateway to the park is the village of Nazareth.
In Cabo de La Vela, the convergence of the desert and the sea forms breathtaking landscapes and viewpoints (such as the well-known Pilón de Azúcar) in a burst of yellows and blues. The area is particularly famous for its amazing sunsets (El Faro).
Thanks to its consistent winds and tranquil waters all year, this fishing village has become a favorite among kite surfers worldwide.
In this rugged and unspoiled environment, you can immortalize the symbolic northernmost point of South America.
Punta Gallinas is home to one of La Guajira’s most captivating natural sights: the Taroa dunes. These dunes cascade directly into the Caribbean Sea amidst warm and windy conditions. Gliding down on a sandboard from the top of a dune to the sea is one of the most thrilling experiences.
And there are plenty of other surprises waiting for you 😉
The ranchería is the traditional lodging in La Guajira, referring to tiny, rustic houses where Wayuú families reside—like a farm with crops and goats. Some have been adapted into tourist hostels, offering basic accommodations for the night (a simple hammock, a “chinchorro”—a spacious hammock typical of Wayuú dwellings—or a simple bed).
To enhance your La Guajira trip with an immersive cultural experience in the Wayuú community, I suggest staying in a Wayuú ranchería to share their daily life. Fishing, helping with lunch preparation, drawing water from the well, making a traditional “mochila” bag, sharing a typical meal, joining in local dances, listening to the elders’ legends and dreams before resting in your hammock for the night – I cherished this encounter. You can contact Jeanne.
The spots at Punta Gallinas are favored by kite surfers due to its perfect wind conditions (25-35 knots) and breathtaking natural setting. Punta Gallinas boasts three sites: the lagoon (near Luz Mila), La Boquita (directly downwind from Luz Mila), and the Taroa dunes. The latter is recommended for experts only, as the waves can be very powerful.
If you’re a fan, you can book a 5-day tour where you’ll surf the best spots with an experienced and bilingual instructor. Transport, accommodation in a chinchorro, and meals are included in the package.
© Tomplanmytrip
Visit THE media Guajira
Lively towns and charming coastal cities.
Once a peaceful seaside corner, Palomino has become a bustling destination on the Caribbean coast with a strong “hippie/backpacker” culture.
I like its laid-back atmosphere that encourages interaction (especially on weekends) and offers good hotels and restaurants. The main activity is tubing down the river to the sea.
However, over-tourism has led to uncontrolled urban development, severely impacting the local ecology. The beach, far from being a paradise, faces severe erosion. Moreover, the sea, often stirred by strong currents, is not ideal for swimming.
The small fishing village of Dibulla, still preserved from tourism, provides a much quieter and more authentic alternative to Palomino. There are a few interesting accommodation options, including various house rentals.
Only 10 minutes away by taxi, Punta de Los Remedios, with its beautiful beach, offers glamping and romantic hotel options. Life here is far from the hustle of Palomino, moving at the rhythm of fishing trips—speaking Spanish is recommended.
The capital of La Guajira, Riohacha, doesn’t have much tourist appeal; 3 hours were more than enough for me to see its main attractions. It is known as the starting point for desert excursions and for its wind conditions and calm waters, which are appreciated by kite surfers, especially beginners (good instructors and more affordable prices than in Cabo de La Vela).
The surrounding areas offer some beautiful day trip destinations: Manaures salt mines, Mayapo, a stunning white sand beach, and the Los Flamencos Wildlife and Flora Sanctuary, home to a beautiful population of flamingos and other bird species.
You can find mid-range hotels, youth hostels, and a few good restaurants in Riohacha.
Due to its proximity to the Venezuelan border, which fosters illicit markets, I recommend avoiding certain neighborhoods and nighttime outings.
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Visit the BAJA Guajira
Fertile land and a rich cultural heritage.
The southern part of La Guajira, Baja Guajira, is the most fertile area due to its well-developed water network. It is also a productive livestock center. The main municipality is Barrancas, located on the banks of the Ranchería River.
Baja Guajira is the birthplace of Vallenato, a unique musical genre that blends indigenous, African, and European influences, perfectly illustrating the rich cultural mix of the Colombian people. Vallenato was declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2015.
One of the gems of this southern part of La Guajira is Los Montes de Oca, a forest reserve consisting of a 25-kilometer-long dry tropical forest that serves as the border between Colombia and Venezuela, known for its turquoise waters.
You must go with an agency, as several theft incidents have occurred.
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WHERE TO STAY IN LA GUAJIRA
The rustic charm of the desert and the comfort of a seaside hotel.
The ranchería is a traditional rustic inn in the La Guajira desert. You can choose between a simple hammock (the cheapest and most common option), a “chinchorro” (a more spacious hammock typical of Wayuú homes), or a standard bed.
Don’t expect luxury—there’s no air conditioning, the electricity is often cut at night, and there can be issues with the water supply. Sometimes, you’ll only have a mix of fresh and saltwater to wash. But trust me, after a day of exploring, you’ll sleep wonderfully, lulled by the desert wind and goats chewing.
If you want to relax and enjoy more comfort after visiting the desert, you can opt for a boutique hotel on the beach. The popular coastal village of Palomino offers a wide range of hotels, with or without air conditioning, in various price ranges from budget to upscale. Among them are the Aite Eco Resort and Coconuco.
The beach at Mayapo, about 40 kilometers from Riohacha, also has luxury beach hotels, such as the Aiwa Hotel.
Generally, these hotels don’t offer the best value for money—I prefer those near Tayrona.
Part of the southern La Guajira lies at the foot of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, where indigenous communities maintain a deep connection with nature. This unique aspect has attracted numerous yoga and meditation instructors, leading to the construction of hotels that promote this lifestyle.
One of the most well-known hotels in the area is the Hotel One Santuario. There are also several retreats organized at the Hotel Chapolin.
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EATING AND DRINKING
La Guajira’s specialties
Make sure to taste the cazuela de marisco. This succulent dish, common along the coast, is made of seafood cooked in a stone pot with a creamy sauce (often including cheese) and infused with local herbs. Trust me, it’s heavenly! When you’re in Riohacha, I strongly suggest visiting La Casa del Marisco to savor this culinary treat.
In Palomino, 7 Mares is famous for its seafood dishes.
Among the most common dishes in Wayuú cuisine is “el friche,” made from shredded goat meat boiled and fried, served with yam or shrimp and chopped rice.
In La Guajira, stewing is a traditional method for cooking both meats and fish (pescados guisados). Goat and buck are the most commonly eaten meats in Alta Guajira, while Baja Guajira is known for its beef production.
This fermented drink made from sugar cane is mainly consumed during traditional Wayuú rituals.
As you can imagine, you won’t find many vegetables in the La Guajira desert. Fish and meat dishes are mainly accompanied by rice, beans, and yucca.
However, there are excellent vegetarian restaurants in Palomino.
© Tomplanmytrip
How to get to La Guajira
And getting around.
I believe this is the best way to explore the most stunning sites of Alta Guajira and immerse yourself in Wayuú culture. These three or four-day tours are done by jeep.
Taking a tour with an agency guarantees good organization, well-maintained vehicles, and competent drivers, even if unexpected issues arise. However, expect long trips on poorly maintained roads.
I suggest traveling light, only bringing the essentials, and being flexible and tolerant.
Daily flights connect Bogotá/Medellín and Riohacha, the only airport in La Guajira. The flight takes just over an hour. The airlines are Latam and Avianca.
If you only plan to visit the Palomino area, you might consider flying into Santa Marta—there are many more flights. The airport is about 2 hours and 15 minutes from the village.
Several bus companies offer regular connections between Santa Marta and Riohacha (3 hours) and Cartagena and Riohacha (7 to 8 hours). I like Rapido Ochoa, Copetran, Expreso Brasilia, and Unitransco.
In La Guajira, buses travel on a single highway along the Caribbean coast. Travel times are relatively short. It takes 1.5 hours between Palomino and Riohacha.
You can stop a bus by the roadside by signaling the driver. Note that this doesn’t work with some larger companies, but overall, it’s quite easy.
If you don’t have the time or desire to wait for the bus, you can take a shared taxi. They usually leave as soon as they have 3 passengers. It’s a good option for Palomino – Dibulla or Palomino – Riohacha, or when you’re leaving Riohacha. However, it’s not convenient if you’re traveling with large luggage.
If you decide to travel alone in La Guajira, there are “shared jeeps” that can take you to Cabo de La Vela and Punta Gallinas. Although this is the cheapest option, the drivers are not always the most experienced, and their vehicles are not always well-maintained. Be cautious of breakdowns.
© Tomplanmytrip
TIPS FOR LA GUAJIRA
Here are a few things you must know to prepare for your adventure in La Guajira.
Overall, traveling in La Guajira is safe. However, I don’t recommend going alone with a rental car. You might get lost and not know how to interact with the Wayuú.
Remember that this is Colombia’s poorest department, so avoid walking alone at night outside urban areas. In Riohacha, stick to daytime excursions and avoid walking around at night. Its proximity to Venezuela makes it susceptible to illicit trafficking, attracting unsavory characters.
Additionally, there are no police stations in the desert of La Guajira. The Wayuú manage everything and resolve issues according to their own laws. The community is very close-knit.
Personally, I’ve never encountered any problems during my four trips to La Guajira (alone or with an agency). I suggest using a local agency.
Numerous agencies offer tours in La Guajira that cover the same sites, but the quality of service can vary greatly—trust me, I learned this the hard way!
Some agencies operate without the proper permits (and thus without insurance).
Here are the key criteria to consider before choosing your agency:
- Sturdy vehicles: Well-maintained 4x4s with air conditioning, if possible.
- Experienced drivers: Respectful of passenger safety. Friendly drivers are a plus, as they can also act as guides.
- Clear itinerary: A well-planned program that handles logistics efficiently, with a strong network of local contacts.
- Sustainable tourism: A focus on responsible tourism that promotes Wayuú culture.
- Detailed package: A comprehensive package detailing essentials like water, accommodation type (hammock, bed), and included meals.
There are very few ATMs in La Guajira, and card payments incur additional fees.
Remember to withdraw enough cash, preferably in small bills. You’ll need it to buy drinks and souvenirs such as the famous Wayuú mochila, a bag crafted by the community’s women.
Withdraw money in Santa Marta before heading to Palomino, and withdraw money in Riohacha before entering the La Guajira desert.
If you’re heading to the La Guajira desert, traveling light is the secret to your trip. Ditch the huge bags that will only cause problems, and choose a backpack that can easily carry your essentials.
Don’t forget the basics:
- Comfortable clothing (light long-sleeve shirts to protect from the sun and sand), a small sweater for the evenings, and a hat or cap.
- A headlamp and an external battery for excursions in La Guajira (electricity is scarce at night).
- Basic medications (Imodium).
- Sunscreen and insect repellent.
Exploring the La Guajira desert means long jeep rides in a demanding desert environment, so it’s essential to be in good shape for this adventure. Additionally, even the most experienced agencies aren’t immune to unexpected events, so patience is key. And remember, those surprises add spice to your experience.
© Tomplanmytrip
Favorite experiences in la gUAJIRA
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