El Valle Utria Lunch Tom, Adrien

PACIFIC COAST

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  • Thomas Espeute

    I fell in love with Colombia in 2015, and then with Aleja, a Colombian woman, in 2019. Now living in Colombia, I spend my time discovering the country's hidden gems and crafting extraordinary itineraries.

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Pacific Coast - El Valle - Playa El Almejal - Aleja
Pacific Coast - El Valle - Playa El Almejal sunset
Pacific Coast - El Valle - Humpback whale
©Tomplanmytrip
Located on the northern part of the Pacific coast, El Valle relies on fishing and tourism for its livelihood. It's the ideal place to enjoy nature, with its two beautiful beaches, surfing, whale watching and turtle watching, depending on the season. You can wander all over the area, where a peaceful atmosphere reigns-except in town on weekends, when the locals bring out their giant speakers to party.

Colombia’s Pacific coast is between the Pacific Ocean and the eastern Andes. It stretches the entire country, from the borders with Panama to the borders with Ecuador, covering an area of over 83,000 km²—larger than that of Panama!

It’s one of Colombia’s six natural regions and spans four departments: Choco, Valle del Cauca, Cauca, and Nariño. The main cities are Bahia Solano, Quibdo and Buenaventura.

The region has about 1.5 million inhabitants, with 90% being Afro-Colombians.

Beach El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia

It’s one of my favorite places in Colombia. The immense black sand beaches bordered by lush jungles are mesmerizing.

The abundant wildlife is ideal for birdwatchers and frog lovers, and let’s not forget the migration of humpback whales.

There are also great diving and surfing sites and secluded eco-lodges, perfect for a tranquil getaway.

Did you know that the Pacific coast is one of the rainiest regions in the world?

  • Sunny days are much more frequent from December to March.
  • Whale watching: July to October.
  • Turtle watching: August to February.
  • Whale shark watching: April to May.
  • As for surfing, the best waves are from May to November.
Termales Pacific Coast Colombia

Access to the Pacific coast is difficult, so I recommend at least 5 days.

Boat Tour whales Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - snorkeling
Playa Juna El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia

©Tomplanmytrip

Humpback whales calve from July to October. The best time to see their famous love dance (large jumps out of the water) is in July and August.

I adored this experience because it doesn’t involve mass tourism. You get close to the whales in small boats, without crowds.

The whales travel from the south (Gorgona) to the north (Bahia Solano). The Bahia Malaga area is the most touristy.

Whales Tour Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - Tom

The Pacific coast is home to about 800 bird species.

The most famous sites include the mangroves of Utria Bay, the Rio Nambi Reserve, the La Planada Reserve, Guachalito, and the area around Bahia Solano.

The most sought-after species are the harpy eagle, the Chocoan cacique, various hummingbirds (such as Mitchell’s hummingbird), and the Pacific toucanet.

Majagua Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - Birds

These small, colorful frogs are beautiful, but be careful! Known as poisonous frogs, they eat insects (especially ants) and secrete a toxic substance on their skin to protect themselves from predators.

The world’s most poisonous frog, the golden poison dart frog (or La Rana Kokoi in Spanish), lives in this area. Just avoid eating them, and you’ll be fine 🙂

Frog Guachalito Nuqui Choco Pacific Coast Colombia

There are several species of sea turtles on the Pacific coast of Colombia.

Every year, from June to December, they come to bury their eggs on the long black sand beaches. After 2 months, the eggs hatch, and it’s a race for survival to reach the sea.

Associations (especially around El Valle) collect the eggs to keep them safe, increasing the survival rate of the baby turtles. When they hatch, the baby turtles are released into the ocean.

Turtles in Mama Orbe El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia
Whales Guachalito Nuqui Choco Pacific Coast Colombia

©Tomplanmytrip

Diving in the Pacific Ocean is interesting during several months of the year. The top diving spots include Isla Malpelo, Isla Gorgona, Arusi, and Bahia Solano.

  • Best visibility: January – February.
  • Whale sharks: April – May.
  • Sardine schools: May.
  • Humpback whales: July to October.
Pacific Coast - Malpelo Island - Shoal of barracudas
Credit: @marce_ochoa_franco

Adrien loves to fish. We went out with local fishermen during our trips to the Pacific coast.

Fishing is done by hand, without rods. You’ll need to speak Spanish to arrange this with the locals. Otherwise, most eco-lodges can set it up for you.

For big game fishing, you should go to Bahía Solano.

Fishing in Utria Park - El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia

The Pacific coast is much better for surfing than the Caribbean coast.

The wave season runs from May to November, but we were also able to surf in January.

The most famous spots are around the small village of Termales (in the Guachalito region) and Playa El Almejal (El Valle).

Surf in El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia
Fisherman - El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia

©Tomplanmytrip

The Pacific beaches have a unique charm you won’t find anywhere else. They are vast stretches bordered by jungle and ocean. You can feel the power of nature here, and time seems to stand still.

My favorite beaches are Playa El Almejal, Arusi, and Guachalito.

Guachalito Nuqui Choco Pacific Coast Colombia

Since it’s a very rainy region, there is plenty of fresh water.

I loved boating up the Jovi River, swimming in the Tigre Waterfalls (El Valle), La Sierpe (Bahia Malaga), and Nabusa (Bahia Solano), and exploring the Rio Juna with a local family.

Nabuga Waterfall Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - Tom Adrien
  • Utría National Natural Park is known for its diverse wildlife and calm waters, which attract turtles and whales. Personally, I’m not a fan of visiting this park (a very short visit).
  • Isla Malpelo is a very isolated but must-see destination for divers.
  • Isla Gorgona is a former prison and also a well-known diving spot.
  • Uramba Bahía Málaga is the most accessible park, close to Buenaventura.
Utria Park - El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia
Nabuga Beach Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - Adrien

©Tomplanmytrip

There are 4 species of mangroves in Colombia, and this ecosystem is essential for preventing beach erosion and supporting fish reproduction.

I recommend visiting the Jardín Botánico in Bahia Solano (there are several trails) and kayaking in Bahia Malaga.

Botanical garden Mecana Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia

The most well-known islands are Isla Gorgona and Isla Malpelo.

A small island in Utría Park also belongs to Absalón and his family. I loved this experience as an alternative to visiting the park.

Snorkeling in Utria Park El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia - Tom Adrien

Don’t forget to bring a good pair of shoes for your stay on the Pacific coast. You can organize many hikes to admire the wildlife and flora. There are no high peaks, but the narrow trails go up and down.

With such a humid climate, be prepared to sweat!

Botanical garden Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia
Guachalito Choco - Pacific Coast Colombia

©Tomplanmytrip

Staying in an eco-lodge is a great way to enjoy the Pacific coast peacefully. Don’t expect luxury; these are comfortable wooden cabins that offer activities and full board.

I love the ones in the Guachalito area (this one), Arusi, Playa El Almejal (this one), and Playa Mecana.

Ecolodge Tarima del Colibri - El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia - Adrien

If your budget doesn’t allow for an eco-lodge, you can stay in smaller, more affordable hotels.

Focus your search on the following villages:

Rocas de Cabo Hotel - Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - aleja

Ideal for solo travelers and backpackers.

My favorite hostels are in:

  • El Valle: Pelicano hostel & Utria hostel
  • Bahia Malaga: Pacifico Hostel.

©Tomplanmytrip

The Pacific coast is rich in fish, hence the most common dish. It’s often fried or in sauce, but you can also ask for it grilled—I prefer it. Order it with coconut rice; it’s always amazing.

food fish Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia

It’s a thick, very flavorful seafood soup found on the Caribbean and Pacific coasts. It combines langoustines, shrimp, corvina, clams, squid, coconut milk, and coriander.

Majagua Food Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia

Viche is a Colombian drink distilled from fermented sugar cane juice, traditionally made by Afro-Pacific communities. It is a cultural heritage that serves as the base for various medicinal and aphrodisiac liqueurs, renowned for their traditional manufacturing process. My favorite Viche cocktails are at the Utria Hostel bar (El Valle).

Utria Bar Cocktail Viche - El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia

Zotea is a hidden culinary gem born from community efforts in Coqui, offering an elegant experience with local exotic flavors, cooking classes, a spectacular beachside view, and a menu with four delicious courses.

This festival, dedicated to Colombia’s Pacific coast culture, takes place every August in Cali. The concerts are free, and you can taste Pacific specialties on-site. It’s one of my favorite festivals in Colombia.

Credit: Petronio Alvarez Festival
Fish Food Utria Park El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia

©Tomplanmytrip

Take a bus from Cali to Buenaventura (3 hours), then a boat (with Bahia Mar) to Juanchaco (1 hour). From there, you can get around by motorcycle, motorboat, or tuk-tuk.

Bahia Malaga Boat Pacific Coast Colombia

Flights from Medellin to Bahia Solano are available with Clicair, Satena, and Moon Flights. You can then take a 40-minute tuk-tuk ride to El Valle.

There is also a boat service twice a week between Bahia Solano and Nuqui (2 hours), as well as a cargo ship once a week from Buenaventura (24 hours).

Adrien tuk-tuk driver - Bahia Solano - Pacific Coast - Colombia

Flights from Medellin to Nuqui are available with the same airlines as for Bahia Solano.

Once in Nuqui, you will need to take a boat to reach your final destination (30 minutes to 1 hour). This service is usually organized by your eco-lodge.

You can also come by boat from Bahia Solano (2 hours, twice a week) or Buenaventura (6 hours, once a week).

During whale season, there are also flights from Pereira to Nuqui (three times a week) with Clic.

Airport plane Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - Tom

Isla Gorgona is a private concession. It is accessible by boat from Guapi (about 2 hours). To get to Guapi, the best option is to take a flight from Cali (with Clicair or Satena).

Airport plane Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia

Since staying on Isla Malpelo is impossible, you have to come by boat. The Ferox is the only liveaboard offering this experience. It departs from Buenaventura.

Airport plane Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - tom adrien

©Tomplanmytrip

The only ATMs are in Buenaventura (a dangerous city) and Bahia Solano (they work half the time).

Make sure to withdraw enough money before you come or pay part (or the totality) of your stay in advance.

El Almejal Beach - El Valle Pacific Coast Colombia - Tom Sunset

I have never experienced any issues in the coastal villages of the Pacific coast. While the region has a lot of political issues, it doesn’t happen in the tourist areas.

Avoid staying in Buenaventura (a dangerous city), and be cautious with your belongings.

Boat Tour whales - Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - Tom Adrien

I omitted Capurgana and Sapzurro because they are on the Caribbean coast (in the Darién). However, technically, they are part of Choco and the natural region of the Colombian Pacific.

There are few good accommodations on the Pacific coast, and they fill up quickly during whale season.

I recommend booking in advance, especially during Colombia’s long weekends (with the Monday holiday) and national holidays.

Majagua Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia
Kayak Mecana Bahia Solano Pacific Coast Colombia - Adrien

©Tomplanmytrip

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Picture yourself observing the whales' ballet from an ecolodge on a secluded beach.

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Guachalito: pacific charm in a peaceful ecolodge 4d

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1 place

Experience the charm of the Pacific, the power of its nature, and the beauty of its untouched landscapes.

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Let yourself be enchanted by the spectacle of the whales, the ambiance of your eco-lodge, and the charm of the village.

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1 place

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