Colombia Travel Guide
PACIFIC COAST
Colombia
Seldom visited and very rainy, the Colombian Pacific coast offers splendid and wild landscapes of vast beaches, lush jungles, excellent surfing spots, and opportunities to observe humpback whales. The peaceful villages, home to an Afro-Colombian population, are perfect for a getaway far from everything.
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El Valle
VISITING COLOMBIA’S PACIFIC COAST
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
The Colombian Pacific coast is a small paradise disconnected from the rest of the world.
Colombia’s Pacific coast is between the Pacific Ocean and the eastern Andes. It stretches the entire country, from the borders with Panama to the borders with Ecuador, covering an area of over 83,000 km²—larger than that of Panama!
It’s one of Colombia’s six natural regions and spans four departments: Choco, Valle del Cauca, Cauca, and Nariño. The main cities are Bahia Solano, Nuqui, Quibdo and Buenaventura.
The region has about 1.5 million inhabitants, with 90% being Afro-Colombians.
It’s one of my favorite places in Colombia. The immense black sand beaches bordered by lush jungles are mesmerizing.
The abundant wildlife is ideal for birdwatchers and frog lovers, and let’s not forget the migration of humpback whales.
There are also great diving and surfing sites and secluded eco-lodges, perfect for a tranquil getaway.
Did you know that the Pacific coast is one of the rainiest regions in the world?
- Sunny days are much more frequent from December to March.
- Whale watching: July to October.
- Turtle watching: August to February.
- Whale shark watching: April to May.
- As for surfing, the best waves are from May to November.
Access to the Pacific coast is difficult, so I recommend at least 4 days (5 is better).
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ANIMAL WATCHING
Colombia’s Pacific coast is among the world’s richest regions in biodiversity, home to numerous endemic species.
Humpback whales calve from July to October. The best time to see their famous love dance (large jumps out of the water) is in July and August.
I adored this experience because it doesn’t involve mass tourism. You get close to the whales in small boats, without crowds.
The whales travel from the south (Gorgona) to the north (Bahia Solano). The Bahia Malaga area is the most touristy.
The Pacific coast is home to about 800 bird species.
The most famous sites include the mangroves of Utria Bay, the Rio Nambi Reserve, the La Planada Reserve, Guachalito, and the area around Bahia Solano.
The most sought-after species are the harpy eagle, the Chocoan cacique, various hummingbirds (such as Mitchell’s hummingbird), and the Pacific toucanet.
These small, colorful frogs are beautiful, but be careful! Known as poisonous frogs, they eat insects (especially ants) and secrete a toxic substance on their skin to protect themselves from predators.
Arusi is an excellent destination for hiking in the jungle and looking for frogs and snakes.
The world’s most poisonous frog, the golden poison dart frog (or La Rana Kokoi in Spanish), lives in this area. Just avoid eating them, and you’ll be fine 🙂
There are several species of sea turtles on the Pacific coast of Colombia.
Every year, from June to December, they come to bury their eggs on the long black sand beaches. After 2 months, the eggs hatch, and it’s a race for survival to reach the sea.
Associations (especially around El Valle) collect the eggs to keep them safe, increasing the survival rate of the baby turtles. When they hatch, the baby turtles are released into the ocean.
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OCEAN ACTIVITIES
Great ways to enjoy the Pacific Ocean.
Diving in the Pacific Ocean is interesting during several months of the year. The top diving spots include Isla Malpelo, Isla Gorgona, Punta Brava (Cabo Corrientes), and Bahia Solano.
- Best visibility: January – February.
- Whale sharks: April – May.
- Sardine schools: May.
- Humpback whales: July to October.
Adrien loves to fish. We went out with local fishermen during our trips to the Pacific coast.
Fishing is done by hand, without rods. You’ll need to speak Spanish to arrange this with the locals. Otherwise, most eco-lodges can set it up for you.
For big game fishing, you should go to Bahía Solano or Guachalito.
The Pacific coast is much better for surfing than the Caribbean coast.
The wave season runs from May to November, but we were also able to surf in January.
The most famous spots are around the small village of Termales (near Guachalito) and Playa El Almejal (El Valle).
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EXPLORE THE PACIFIC COAST
Walk along immense beaches to beautiful waterfalls and explore national parks.
The Pacific beaches have a unique charm you won’t find anywhere else. They are vast stretches bordered by jungle and ocean. You can feel the power of nature here, and time seems to stand still.
My favorite beaches are Playa El Almejal, Termales, Punta Brava, and Guachalito.
Since it’s a very rainy region, there is plenty of fresh water.
I loved boating up the Jovi River, swimming in the Tigre Waterfalls (El Valle), La Sierpe (Bahia Malaga), and Nabusa (Bahia Solano), and exploring the Rio Juna with a local family.
- Utría National Natural Park is known for its diverse wildlife and calm waters, which attract turtles and whales. Personally, I’m not a fan of visiting this park (a very short visit).
- Isla Malpelo is a very isolated but must-see destination for divers.
- Isla Gorgona is a former prison and also a well-known diving spot.
- Uramba Bahía Málaga is the most accessible park, close to Buenaventura.
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Explore the Pacific Coast
Uncover the mangrove ecosystem and enjoy treks through the vibrant jungle.
There are 4 species of mangroves in Colombia, and this ecosystem is essential for preventing beach erosion and supporting fish reproduction.
I recommend visiting the Jardín Botánico in Bahia Solano (there are several trails), the ones in Coqui, and kayaking in Bahia Malaga.
The most well-known islands are Isla Gorgona and Isla Malpelo.
A small island in Utría Park also belongs to Absalón and his family. I loved this experience as an alternative to visiting the park.
Don’t forget to bring a good pair of shoes for your stay on the Pacific coast. You can organize many hikes to admire the wildlife and flora. There are no high peaks, but the narrow trails go up and down.
With such a humid climate, be prepared to sweat!
Termales and Arusi are the destinations where I hiked the most.
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WHERE TO STAY
Depending on where you decide to go, you’ll be completely dependent on your accommodation.
Ideal for solo travelers and backpackers.
My favorite hostels are in:
- El Valle: Pelicano hostel & Utria hostel
- Bahia Malaga: Pacifico Hostel.
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EATING AND DRINKING
The best local food I’ve had in Colombia is on the Pacific coast.
The Pacific coast is rich in fish, hence the most common dish. It’s often fried or in sauce, but you can also ask for it grilled—I prefer it. Order it with coconut rice; it’s always amazing.
It’s a thick, very flavorful seafood soup found on the Caribbean and Pacific coasts. It combines langoustines, shrimp, corvina, clams, squid, coconut milk, and coriander.
Viche is a Colombian drink distilled from fermented sugar cane juice, traditionally made by Afro-Pacific communities. It is a cultural heritage that serves as the base for various medicinal and aphrodisiac liqueurs, renowned for their traditional manufacturing process. My favorite Viche cocktails are at the Utria Hostel bar (El Valle).
Zotea is a hidden culinary gem born from community efforts in Coqui, offering an elegant experience with local exotic flavors, cooking classes, a spectacular beachside view, and a menu with four delicious courses.
This festival, dedicated to Colombia’s Pacific coast culture, takes place every August in Cali. The concerts are free, and you can taste Pacific specialties on-site. It’s one of my favorite festivals in Colombia.
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TRANPORTATION
There are hardly any roads along the Pacific coast. Most of your travel will be by boat or plane.
Take a bus from Cali to Buenaventura (3 hours), then a boat (with Bahia Mar) to Juanchaco (1 hour). From there, you can get around by motorcycle, motorboat, or tuk-tuk.
Flights from Medellin to Bahia Solano are available with Clicair, Satena, and Moon Flights. You can then take a 40-minute tuk-tuk ride to El Valle.
There is also a boat service twice a week between Bahia Solano and Nuqui (2 hours), as well as a cargo ship once a week from Buenaventura (24 hours).
Flights from Medellin to Nuqui are available with the same airlines as for Bahia Solano.
Once in Nuqui, you will need to take a boat to reach your final destination (30 minutes to 1 hour). This service is usually organized by your eco-lodge.
You can also come by boat from Bahia Solano (2 hours, twice a week) or Buenaventura (6 hours, once a week).
During whale season, there are sometimes flights from Pereira to Nuqui with Clic.
Isla Gorgona is a private concession. It is accessible by boat from Guapi (about 2 hours). To get to Guapi, the best option is to take a flight from Cali (with Clicair or Satena).
Since staying on Isla Malpelo is impossible, you have to come by boat. The Ferox is the only liveaboard offering this experience. It departs from Buenaventura.
©Tomplanmytrip
MY LAST TIPS
Tips for better travel on the Colombian Pacific coast.
The only ATMs are in Buenaventura (a dangerous city) and Bahia Solano (they work half the time).
Make sure to withdraw enough money before you come or pay part (or the totality) of your stay in advance.
I have never experienced any issues in the coastal villages of the Pacific coast. While the region has a lot of political issues, it doesn’t happen in the tourist areas.
Avoid staying in Buenaventura (a dangerous city), and be cautious with your belongings.
I omitted Capurgana and Sapzurro because they are on the Caribbean coast (in the Darién). However, technically, they are part of Choco and the natural region of the Colombian Pacific.
There are few good accommodations on the Pacific coast, and they fill up quickly during whale season.
I recommend booking in advance, especially during Colombia’s long weekends (with the Monday holiday) and national holidays.
©Tomplanmytrip
Favorite ecolodges in the Colombian Pacific Coast
Directly contact the best eco-lodges for this destination
Guachalito: Peaceful ecolodge on a deserted beach 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Go spend a few days in a no-frills ecolodge, where the real highlight is the untouched beach.
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Coqui: An intimate eco-lodge by the Pacific 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Dive into a bubble of comfort on a secluded beach, and share authentic moments with the locals.
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Guachalito: Cliffside Ecolodge Facing the Ocean 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Enjoy an incredible view and share great moments with fellow travelers.
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Punta Brava: Remote ecolodge with ocean balcony 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Rest in a cabin nestled between jungle and ocean horizon, far from the crowds.
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El valle: Whale watching and upscale ecolodge 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Let yourself be enchanted by the spectacle of the whales, the ambiance of your eco-lodge, and the charm of the village.
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El valle: The magic of the Pacific in an upscale ecolodge 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Succumb to the wonders of the Pacific, the beauty of its raw nature, and the vibrant atmosphere of El Valle.
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Guachalito: Eco-lodge nestled in the jungle, by the sea 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Settle into a tree-surrounded cabin, close to the ocean, and soak in the peaceful, wild atmosphere.
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Guachalito: High-end ecolodge by a stunning beach 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Enjoy a top-notch accommodation nestled between lush tropical greenery and a dream beach.
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Arusi: Charming ecolodge just steps from the village 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Relax in a cozy cabin, open to the garden, mangrove, or ocean.
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