Our adventures in Termales, Colombia

After Coqui and Guachalito, I continued my 13-day trip along Colombia’s Pacific Coast in February 2025, stopping in Termales.

Discover what happened next by diving into my travel journal. You’ll follow my day-to-day experience in Termales and get inspired to plan your days, between jungle treks and ocean joys.

TOM’S TIP

Check out our selection of ecolodges between Nuquí and Punta Brava, and don’t miss our Coqui, Guachalito, Arusí, and Punta Brava guides!

Day 6: Arrival in Termales

10:30 a.m. – The lancha drops us off on a stunning beach, right in front of our lodging. The swell makes the landing a bit sporty: I jump into the water, grab my bag, and the boat takes off again.

Siméon, the friendly owner, welcomes us and invites us into the cabin where he lives part of the year, while Lina, who handles maintenance, finishes getting ours ready.

We get to know each other over a nice cold beer.

Our cabin, “Hibiscus”, is ready. We unpack our bags and hang our damp clothes to dry on the railing of the big terrace, which overlooks the garden and the beach.

Visit to the hot springs

We decide to head to Termales for a soak in the hot springs.

It’s a 10-minute walk along a shaded path that follows the beach to the entrance of the village—watch out for falling coconuts 😉 We stroll up the village’s only street and easily find the thermal baths.

In the sulfur-scented air, we enjoy the warm waters of the two shaded pools, then cool off in the river below.

That little soak left our skin baby-soft, and our stomachs growling. Time to head to La Flaca, the village’s beachfront restaurant.

After a hearty and delicious menú del día, we return to our cabin along the beach.

Surf AND SUNSET

The end of the afternoon flows between a hammock nap and a stroll by the water.

At sunset, Adrien and I borrow two boards from the owner and ride some clean waves, with a few epic tumbles in the mix.

We end the day with a delicious fish dish at Madre Selva, then drift off to sleep with the rumble of the rising sea in the background.

ADRIEN’S TIP

In high season, ask the person at the hot springs entrance to check if it’s too packed before heading. I recommend going late in the day or even in the evening—bring a bottle of wine, and enjoy. You can stay as long as you like.

Day 7: Trek, river hike, and sunset

7:00 a.m. – We arrive at Yerson’s place in Termales. Looks like our guide’s still sleeping 😉

We planned to hike to Palo Blanco, but we’ll do Cuatro Encantos instead—no problem, we’re always up for an adventure!

TREK TO QUATRO ENCANTOS

While Yerson slowly wakes up and we pull on the rubber boots he lent us, we get ready to hit the trail, accompanied by his three young dogs.

The path is wet and muddy, scattered with twisting roots. Our boots sink deep in places, and some sections are pretty steep. I’m glad to have the walking stick Yerson gave me—it really helps.

Along the way, we spot a few brightly colored poison frogs—red, orange, yellow. You’ve got to listen carefully to know where to look, but Yerson’s got it covered. Then the rain begins to fall.

After 1 hour and 45 minutes of hiking through dense vegetation, we reach the four waterfalls of Cuatro Encantos. We can’t resist a (very) refreshing swim in the rain.

On the way back, Yerson offers to show us a cave where a colony of bats lives. We follow a barely visible, steep path down to a river weaving through the narrow walls of the cave.

The water fills our boots as we move forward, feeling our way through the darkness. One of Yerson’s dogs starts whining—“he doesn’t like water,” his owner says, totally unfazed. The bats, disturbed by our headlamps (not great, we know), fly over our heads. We exit the cave right where the river flows past the hot springs.

Back in the village, we have lunch at La Flaca before returning to our cabin.

EXPLORING THE RIO TERCO

After a nap in the hammock, Adrien and I take advantage of the low tide and head toward Guachalito, walking along the beach to El Morro, where we start our hike up the Río Terco.

In the deafening hum of cicadas, we follow the riverbed, the water sometimes reaching up to our thighs. We step over fallen tree trunks, careful not to disturb the thick-bodied (but apparently harmless) spiders resting nearby.

Basilisks dart across the water at full speed as they spot us—it never fails to amaze me.

We follow the river for about 45 minutes until we reach a small waterfall, taking extra care not to slip on the slick rocks.

My second day in Termales ends with a cold beer on the beach at sunset, followed by a nice dinner at Madre Selva.

TOM’S TIP

It’s best to speak decent Spanish to organize your outings in Termales, and be ready to adapt—plans can easily change with the rain. No worries, though: our local partner Siméon will hook you up with all the right contacts.

Day 8: Jungle trek and transfer to Arusí

7:00 a.m. – Back at Yerson’s house in Termales, he’s wide awake this time!

We lace up our boots, grab our sticks, and set off into the jungle toward Palo Blanco, with Yerson’s dogs leading the way.

THE SURPRISING ADVENTURE OF PALO BLANCO

We cross paths with a group of loggers working deep in the jungle, and pass by the rudimentary camp of an Indigenous family.

The trail is muddy and rough, tangled with a web of slippery roots. I keep wanting to grab onto tree trunks for balance, but Yerson warns me not to—they’re often covered in spikes… or worse, hormigas balas. Those ants don’t mess around—their sting is so painful it can make you cry like a kid. Literally.

Eventually, we reach a viewpoint and pause to admire the sweeping forest below. Yerson points out the once-mighty Palo Blanco, an impressive tree now lying fallen on the ground.

The path gets steep, plunging into thick jungle until we reach a river. We start walking upstream, but the water is high after the recent rains. We reach the trickiest section—no way around it—we have to jump in and swim about 20 meters.

I crack up watching Adrien struggle, holding his backpack above his head, nearly swallowing half the river, while Yerson’s most timid dog whines from a rock, visibly shaking. What a team! Ultimately, Yerson scoops up the dog (not Adrien) and carries him across.

We crawl out of the river, soaked to the bone, and start doing a little dance while emptying water from our boots.

new DESTINATION: ARUSÍ

Before heading back, and since Jenny’s famous empanadas weren’t an option today—the shop closed—we grab some pan de coco from La Flaca, which also doubles as a panadería.

It’s noon—just enough time to shower and repack our backpacks before hopping on a lancha, bound for Arusí, our next stop.

To find out what happens next on my trip along the Colombian Pacific Coast, read the story of my stay in Arusí, straight from my travel journal.

ADRIEN’S TIP

The Palo Blanco trek requires good physical condition—once you’re in, there’s no turning back. Due to the river sections, leave anything breakable or sensitive behind.

The best beachfront cabins

Built in a lovely garden, Siméon’s three wooden cabins are simple, but comfortable and well-designed.

I especially loved the ample social space in my Hibiscus cabin, the one closest to the beach, with hammocks and a fully equipped kitchen facing the ocean—the perfect spot to keep an eye on the many birds in the garden.

If you’re not a fan of nighttime visitors, you might prefer the Colibri cabin, which is a bit more enclosed.

Siméon is a laid-back host, always ready with good tips—he’ll share his favorite contacts and spots, but you’ll need to book directly with the locals and sort out your meals on your own.

A true surf enthusiast, Siméon will share his top wave spots, and you can borrow a bodysurf board. And when the waves call, you’ll probably see him running to the beach, board under his arm.

These cabins by the sea are perfect for anyone wanting a quiet night’s sleep, just a short walk from Termales, and still within reach of Guachalito along the coast.

They’re also ideal if you value your independence and want to save some money.

And believe me, a sunset all to yourself on a wild beach—you’ll remember it forever.

TOM’S TIP

Do you prefer to have your lodge take care of everything (transport, meals, activities)? Then you’ll want to pick another spot on the Pacific coast. Check out our partner ecolodges in the area, and our full breakdown here.

The team behind this HOTEL

Hi, Simeon!

Siméon was one of the very first foreigners to settle in Termales, over ten years ago.

His idea is simple: offer an affordable, simple, and comfortable place for travelers who want to explore Termales and the area at their own pace. He’s full of great advice and will help you plan your stay as best as possible.

He also lives on the property, though he’s not always around—in that case, you’ll be welcomed by someone else who speaks at least English and Spanish.

HOW TO CONTACT HIM?

Nothing could be easier!

Just book through Booking, and he’ll contact you directly.

An alternative option is to stay at Madre Selva, his next-door neighbor.

WHY TRUST US?

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We’re among the top travel experts in Colombia (we’ve been exploring the country since 2015 — wow, now I feel old!). And hey, feel free to check out our awesome About Us page 😉

Our goal is to make it easy for you to connect with the best local agencies, allowing you to chat with them and build your own tailor-made experience. No more doubts, no more bad surprises.