Isla Grande: Why Visit This Island and How [Guide]
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Update
With over 200 hectares of mangroves and dry forest, Isla Grande is an authentic slice of paradise surrounded by crystal-clear waters in the Rosario coral archipelago off the coast of Cartagena.
Should you opt for this island instead of Isla Baru or Tierra Bomba? Where can you sleep? Should you rent a boat? After spending 8 days on Isla Grande, I’ve gathered the top information in this travel guide.
Edit 05/2024: We completely revised this article.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT ISLA GRANDE, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
Isla Grande is an unmatched island gem, ideal for an escape from Cartagena.
Isla Grande is a Colombian island in the Bolivar department situated in the San Bernardo and Rosario Corals National Natural Park on the Caribbean coast, an hour by boat from Cartagena de Indias.
Formerly occupied by the Karib Indians, Isla Grande, along with many islands in the Rosario archipelago, came under Spanish rule during the Conquista. It was inhabited by runaway slaves (“marrons”) until the 19th century. In 1977, the Colombian government created the Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park to safeguard the extensive marine and terrestrial diversity of these two archipelagos.
To me, Isla Grande means freedom and relaxation.
Coming to Isla Grande means discovering dreamy landscapes, wandering through dense tropical vegetation, diving and snorkeling in crystal-clear waters, swimming among bioluminescent plankton, relaxing on private beaches, and escaping the crowds by staying overnight.
The climate on Isla Grande is hot and humid throughout the year, with temperatures ranging from 24°C to 31°C. The rainiest months are May, October, and November, but rain showers are rarely continuous and don’t last long.
From December to April, the winds blow much more substantial, making the Caribbean Sea rougher and boat travel more challenging.
In truth, any month is good for visiting Isla Grande, as underwater visibility is always excellent. Personally, I prefer November, when you can almost have the island “to yourself.”
Avoid the high season (Holy Week, mid-December to mid-January) and, if possible, weekends and holidays, which are numerous in Colombia.
To truly experience the beauty of this paradise island, I suggest staying at least 2 nights.
If you can’t stay overnight on Isla Grande—which is a real pity in my opinion—make sure to pick your day trip wisely, since you’ll only have a few hours.
The best option would be to rent a boat with friends, sail around Isla Grande (my favorite part of the Rosario archipelago), and choose a good seaside restaurant for lunch.
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THINGS TO DO IN Isla Grande
A few activities to enjoy between swims in the turquoise waters.
Don’t be afraid to explore the island on your own. Lovely trails winding through dense, lush vegetation will lead you to hidden beaches and to Orika—the island’s only village with a peaceful atmosphere where you can enjoy a refreshing beer by the mangrove.
Before you go treasure hunting, remember to download the island map and the Maps.me app to find your way, as the paths are not marked.
Because Isla Grande is a coral island, the white sand beaches you find there are artificially created. Most of these little paradises are private and thus have an entry fee.
Playa Libre is the only public beach. It’s small but pleasant, and it quickly becomes crowded with tourists.
The best private beaches belong to Sol y Papaya, a bar-restaurant where you can use the facilities and eat without spending too much, and Rosario de Mar, a hotel on the island’s eastern end. Eco Hotel La Cocotera, a budget-friendly hotel, also boasts a lovely white sand beach. You can also opt to relax at beach clubs like Luxury with its trendy vibe, Rosario Beach, or Pa’ue Beach Lounge, a beautiful beach bar.
Isla Grande is surrounded by a coral reef that’s ideal for snorkeling. However, you might be a bit surprised by the amount of dead coral. I recommend snorkeling between 6 AM and 9 AM or after 4 PM to avoid heavy boat traffic—be cautious, as boats can pass by at high speeds. You can also join a local who will take you to his favorite spots.
The island’s excellent visibility and warm waters make it a top diving destination. Two dive centers are on the island: the highly regarded Diving Planet and Scuba Cartagena.
If you can stay after sunset, go to Laguna Encantada to observe the bioluminescent plankton, especially during the darkest nights (around the new moon). Bring your mask, snorkel, and a white T-shirt—the phenomenon becomes even more magical with water movement.
- Exploring the mangrove by canoe: If you’re curious about discovering a remarkable wild ecosystem, don’t hesitate to take a canoe excursion through the mangrove. You’ll navigate through tunnels of vegetation that open up into lagoons. The experience is even better early in the morning and lasts about 2 to 3 hours.
- Touring the Island by Boat: A boat trip around Isla Grande will give you a better appreciation of its beauty, allow you to get close to some of the small private islands, and enjoy excellent snorkeling spots. Expect the trip to take about 4 to 5 hours.
- Kayaking or Paddleboarding: You can rent a kayak or paddleboard to venture along the shoreline or into the mangrove. For example, touring Isleta takes around 45 minutes. Trust me, don’t forget your hat and sunscreen.
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WHERE TO STAY IN Isla Grande
Accommodations on Isla Grande are expensive, and don’t expect five-star service—embrace the laid-back costeño vibe.
Staying on the main island of the archipelago offers greater independence in your movements and a wider selection of eco-resorts and budget hotels. However, keep in mind that between 10 AM and 4 PM, you’ll often have to share your piece of beach with day-tripping tourists—some of these hotels offer day packages.
If you dream of white sand, Hotel Rosario de Mar‘s main advantage is its two beautiful beaches, while the beach and pool of Isla del Sol will delight families.
San Pedro de Majagua‘s beach is smaller, but this modern hotel is set in a stunning environment and offers a wide range of activities.
If you’re on a budget, El Hamaquero provides rustic accommodations in a peaceful setting with a friendly atmosphere and stunning ocean views.
Isleta is a small island opposite Isla Grande, and here I found the best hotels offering great value in a breathtaking setting.
My favorite was Islabela, with its bungalows and charming private beaches. Its genuine ecological commitment ensures an authentic and quality stay. The only downside is that its prices have been increasing a bit too much lately. A more attractive alternative now is Fragata Island House.
For a more comfortable budget, Coralina Island offers a cozy and romantic stay for couples. The Franco-Colombian cuisine there is delicious.
Renting a private island in the Rosario archipelago guarantees tranquility, and the high cost becomes quite reasonable if you come with friends. You’ll wake up surrounded by turquoise waters, and a chef will prepare delicious seafood and freshly caught fish for you.
Isla Rosa, Isla Pelicano, and Isla Matamba are a few examples of these private paradises available for rent.
Remember, you’ll need to arrange a private boat for both your arrival and departure.
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Bars & Restaurants
Finding a great spot to eat on Isla Grande can be tricky, and service might occasionally be slow. Just unwind, you’re on holiday.
Sol y Papaya offers traditional dishes (coconut rice and plantains, garlic lobster) at reasonable prices in a relaxed atmosphere on a beautiful white sand beach.
In a stunning setting, this beach bar serves excellent food (garlic shrimp), and the cocktails (piña colada) are great, though a bit pricey. The staff is exceptionally attentive.
In a paradise-like setting, the eco-hotel Islabela on Isleta serves food that, while not exceptional, offers good value for money. The professionalism and friendliness of the staff are a definite plus.
A somewhat secluded place, serving delicious and varied meals, with quality service.
If you want to save money, I recommend eating at Orika, the village. Small restaurants are serving good traditional cuisine. I think it’s an excellent way to manage your budget while discovering local flavors and culture.
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HOW TO GET TO Isla Grande
Departures are from Cartagena.
A public boat from the Bazurto market or “El muelle de la Bodeguita”. It’s economical but leaves when it’s full (around 10-11 am). Better to be patient; expect a 2 to 2.5-hour trip. I don’t recommend this option.
It’s the most economical option if your hotel doesn’t have its own boat to take travelers from Cartagena. Departures are between 8 and 9 in the morning (here) and drop travelers at the various accommodations on Isla Grande. Generally, you will arrive on the island around 11 in the morning.
If the hotel offers it, don’t hesitate to accept. Sure, it’s a bit more expensive than the “public” boat, but it’s much easier to organize. Again, the boats leave between 8 and 9 in the morning, as they also bring people who have purchased their day package. The boat ride takes 45-60 minutes.
The best plan is to rent a private boat to visit the Rosario Islands and ask your captain to drop you off at your hotel on Isla Grande at the end of the day. You can leave at a time that suits you (no later than 2 pm).
It’s very easy to get around on foot on Isla Grande, but due to a lack of signs, it’s not easy to navigate. I recommend downloading the island map and the Maps.me app to help you find your way. I even discovered hidden paths and secret spots.
You’ll need to arrange your boat transfer with a local if you need to go to Isleta—5 minutes.
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SAFETY ON Isla Grande
The Rosario Islands are peaceful, and I walked around Isla Grande safely. Of course, don’t leave your belongings on the beach unattended.
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TIPS AND INFORMATION
There are a few things to know to make the most of your stay on Isla Grande.
Its isolation and tourist draw make some hotels focus solely on offering a stunning natural setting, often sacrificing value for money. Therefore, I recommend carefully choosing your hotel if you want to experience paradise without the uncomfortable feeling of being ripped off.
Isla Grande is located an hour by boat from Cartagena, with specific arrival and departure times.
Hotel boats depart for the islands between 8 and 9 AM and come back to Cartagena around 4 PM.
Private boats do not depart Cartagena after 2 PM since they must be back at the port by 5 PM.
If you don’t have sea legs, remember that from December to April, the Caribbean Sea is rough in the afternoon. The boat trip might seem a bit daunting.
Like on many islands, waste management on Isla Grande remains a concern despite awareness campaigns among local youth. Remember to take your trash with you; you’ll help preserve this paradise.
If you enjoy snorkeling, you’ll notice that the coral reef is quite degraded in some areas. Preserving and restoring the reef are critical goals of the Rosario and San Bernardo Coral National Natural Park.
- Bring cash, as there are no ATMs on the island.
- If you want internet access, download the “Maps.me” app and buy a “Movistar” SIM card.
- You must pay a fee of about 25,000 COP to enter the Rosario and San Bernardo Coral National Natural Park.
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ItinERARIES
How to include Isla Grande during your stay in Cartagena.
Many hotels on Isla Grande offer day passes that include transport, meals, and access to their private beach. My favorite option is Islabela on Isleta, where the beach is large, and you can borrow a kayak and order cocktails. It’s perfect for a family beach day. Rosario de Mar also has two beautiful beaches.
You will arrive around 9:30 AM and leave for Cartagena between 2 and 3 PM. This is not my favorite option because you won’t be alone.
The boat is very pleasant, with a bar that prepares cocktails, and you can dance and take a nap. However, note that you won’t set foot on Isla Grande, but you will be able to swim in beautiful waters about fifty meters from the shore.
For me, it’s the coolest and most flexible option to explore the Rosario Islands if you’re with friends. You’ll board around 9 AM in Cartagena without having to wait in line, and your captain will let you decide your route. Renting a private boat provides a real sense of freedom in a joyful atmosphere. You’ll be back around 4:30 PM.
Since you can’t control the boat departure and arrival times, I recommend against staying only one night on Isla Grande. It’s best to stay 2 nights in Cartagena, then 2 nights on Isla Grande, and finish with one last night in Cartagena.
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Isla Grande: 5 common pitfalls to avoid
A lot of travelers aim to visit Isla Grande while staying in Cartagena, and it’s easy to see why—you’re on vacation, after all, so why not enjoy a little piece of paradise?
That said, I’ve often seen people struggle to plan it properly into their trip or feel let down by their visit because they made a few missteps.
Here are 5 tips I suggest you keep in mind to get the most out of your time on Isla Grande.
TOM’S TIP
Read our guide to discover where to stay on the Rosario Islands. If you’re only going for the day, I’ll show you how to book the best boats from Cartagena.
Mistake 1: You can’t go to Isla Grande whenever you please
Boats heading to Isla Grande depart from Cartagena in the early morning. The schedule varies based on the tour or hotel you select, but it’ll be between 7:30 and 9:00 AM.
This means:
- No sleeping in if you plan to go to Isla Grande.
- You’ll have to get to Cartagena at least the night before.
Make sure to think about the type of boat you’ll be taking as well.
If you opt for your hotel’s boat, things are generally pretty smooth.
On the other hand, if you go for the budget option (or your hotel doesn’t offer a boat), the organization can get a bit wild. You’ll have to buy your ticket at La Bodeguita dock, figure out the right gate, and listen carefully for them to call your name (wish you luck with that!)—picture 1 & 2.
When we tried this, the boat left 45 minutes late (for reasons unknown) and made multiple stops to drop people off at their hotels on the island. We finally arrived around 11 AM, even though we were ready by 8:30 AM.
So, I strongly suggest opting for your hotel’s boat, even if it costs a little more.
If not, the best choice is definitely a private boat—you can set your own departure time (but leaving early is still ideal to fully enjoy the islands, as boats must be back in Cartagena before 5 PM)—picture 3.
ADRIEN’S TIP
You can rent a boat and ask the captain to drop you off at your hotel on Isla Grande at the end of the day. It’s one of the 5 tips I recommend here.
Mistake 2: Forgetting about the day-trippers
Most beachfront hotels on the Rosario Islands offer day-passes for travelers. This can be a convenient option if you just want to lounge on the beach for a few hours without too much planning.
However, if you’re planning to spend 1 or 2 nights on Isla Grande, it can sometimes be bothersome.
Imagine you’re having a calm breakfast by the crystal-clear waters, and suddenly a boat full of tourists shows up with their loudspeaker. Goodbye, peaceful little retreat.
To avoid this, try visiting Isla Grande during the week. I also suggest looking into the hotel’s stance on day-trippers: Do they host a lot? Is the atmosphere lively? Is there a private area reserved for guests?
Mistake 3: Expecting white sand beaches all around
Hearing “turquoise Caribbean waters,” “paradise islands,” and “beach clubs” might make you imagine endless stretches of white sand beaches. But that’s not the reality for the Rosario Islands.
The only big white sand beach is Playa Blanca on Isla Barú, but it’s so crowded with tourists that it’s far from a paradise.
Isla Grande and the nearby smaller islands are coral islands, so there’s very little sand, and the beaches that do exist are small and private.
If you’re staying on Isla Grande, make sure to check out the hotel’s photos carefully. And keep in mind that you can still walk around and access other beaches.
When you book a “5-island” day tour, it’s often unclear which beach you’ll be taken to (and they certainly won’t be the best ones), and you’ll rarely have enough time to enjoy it properly.
TOM’S TIP
To easily uncover the secret beaches of Isla Grande, book a boat with our partner Aymeric.
Mistake 4: Planning the wrong day trip to Isla Grande
And trust me, there are many bad choices.
First, don’t make the same rookie mistake I did—there’s no such thing as a good tour leaving from Playa Blanca to Isla Grande. You’ll end up in a crowded boat full of tourists visiting useless spots like the aquarium or a “snorkeling spot” with more tourists than fish.
Also, stay away from tours with multiple stops (like “3-islas this” or “5-islas something”). Yes, you’ll visit more places, but you’ll waste your time hopping on and off the boat and never see the best locations.
If your goal is to truly enjoy Isla Grande, there are only two options:
- Book a nice beach club for the day. The top choices are Pa’ue (pic left) and Rosario de Mar (pic right).
- Or rent a private boat and let our partner craft a custom itinerary (he’ll even book lunch for you at a beach club)—pic 3.
Mistake 5: Not venturing outside your hotel
This advice only makes sense if you plan to stay at least 2 nights on Isla Grande.
Isla Grande is one of the few Colombian islands you can really enjoy by walking. I had a great time following the shaded trails to access different private beaches. Just know there aren’t any signs, so I recommend downloading Maps.me and the map so you can navigate offline.
I spent an entire week exploring the island without any safety issues.
If you’re staying on Isleta (just across), you’ll need to take a quick 5-minute boat ride to reach Isla Grande.
best Tours In the Rosario Islands
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Cartagena: Rent a boat to explore the Rosario Islands 1d
Colombia
1 Day
3 places
A tailor-made boat trip to enjoy the Rosario Islands: Find the most stunning islands and either dodge the tourists or party with them.
View this tour
Cartagena: charter a yacht to visit the Rosario Islands 1d
Colombia
1 Day
3 places
A comfortable and luxurious tailor-made boat trip to enjoy the most stunning islands of the Rosario Archipelago.
View this tour
Cartagena: Partying on Isla Cholon 1d
Colombia
1 Day
1 place
Hop on a private boat with friends to Cartagena's most festive island. Reggaeton, turquoise waters, and an epic party await under the sun!
View this tour
Cartagena: sailboat to enjoy the Rosario Islands 3d
Colombia
3 Days
4 places
Booking a sailboat for a few days is the perfect way to explore the Rosario Islands in peace, catching the magic of sunrise and sunset.
View this tour
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