Colombia Travel Guide
COFFEE REGION
COLOMBIA
The Coffee Region, also known as Coffee Axis, stretches across three departments (Caldas, Risaralda, and Quindío) in the heart of Colombia. Beyond its UNESCO-recognized coffee cultural landscape, the area is famous for its colonial towns such as Salento and Filandia, the Cocora Valley with its wax palms, thermal baths, and the Los Nevados National Park with its snowy summits that draw in hikers and climbers.
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VISIT COLOMBIA’S COFFEE REGION
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general overview
A hilly region abundant in coffee farms and welcoming little towns
The Coffee Region is part of Colombia’s Andean natural region and is mainly composed of three small departments: Risaralda (Pereira), Quindio (Armenia), and Caldas (Manizales). It covers an area of 1,500 km² (half the size of Luxembourg) and has about 3,000,000 inhabitants (called Paisa, like those from Antioquia).
The Coffee Region is located south of Antioquia, east of the Pacific coast (separated by the Western Cordillera), north of Cali, and west of Bogotá.
The Coffee Region (zona cafetera) is known for its endless coffee plantations, meticulously managed by smiling farmers proud of their work, and its beautiful colonial villages connected by Willys Jeeps dating back to World War II.
The region’s strong coffee culture and inhabitants’ enthusiasm for developing sustainable tourism have earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In addition, the region boasts preserved biodiversity thanks to its numerous natural reserves and national parks, perfect for hiking, horseback riding, and bird and howler monkey watching.
Most of the Coffee Region is situated between 1,200 and 1,800 meters above sea level, ensuring a pleasant climate year-round (between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius). However, expect regular but brief rain showers, especially in the afternoons.
- Multi-day Treks: Dec-Mar and Jun-Aug (sunnier days)
- Coffee Harvests: Sep-Dec (main) and Apr-May
There are also numerous festivals worth discovering:
- Feria de Manizales (Jan)
- Carnaval del Diablo in Riosucio (Jan)
- Festival Nacional del Café in Calarca (Jun)
- Noche de las Velitas in Quimbaya (Dec 7)
any travelers visit the Coffee Region just to see Salento and the Cocora Valley.
What a mistake!
This region offers a variety of experiences that you can easily combine to create a wonderful adventure. Plan for at least five days to visit a few colonial villages, go on beautiful hikes and relax in gorgeous accommodations.
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National parks and nature reserves
Ideal for organizing stunning hikes.
Located 30 minutes from Salento, the Cocora Valley is an iconic site in the Coffee Region where you can admire impressive giant palms (up to 60m tall!). There are several ways to explore it. I enjoy taking the long loop, which lasts about five hours and allows you to fully appreciate the beauty of the place (while avoiding some of the tourists).
It’s an activity you can do on your own, without the help of an agency.
Los Nevados is one of my favorite national parks in Colombia. Multi-day hikes through stunning landscapes (including tropical forests, paramos, and glaciers) are available from Pereira, Manizales, and Salento.
The most famous sites are Nevado del Ruiz (5,321m, the summit is not accessible as it is an active volcano), Nevado Santa Isabel (4,950m), Nevado del Tolima (5,215m), Paramillo del Quindio (4,750m), and Laguna de Otun (3,950m).
While it’s not necessary to go with an agency (except to access the glaciers), I highly recommend it because the trails are not marked, and the logistics can be complicated to arrange. Don’t forget to bring a good rain jacket, as it often rains.
A hidden gem to the general public, Tatamá Park is located on the outskirts of the lovely village of Sanctuario (2 hours from Pereira).
This park is an AICAs site (essential habitats for certain bird species – IBA), home to over 110 species of mammals, 400 species of birds, and 110 species of reptiles. It covers 52,000 hectares, with altitudes ranging from 1,165 meters to 4,250 meters, allowing visitors to experience a variety of ecosystems (paramos, rainforest, and Andean forest).
A six-hour hike to the waterfalls is possible with the help of a local guide.
Located 15 km from Pereira, Otun Quimbaya is a natural reserve of just under 500 hectares, renowned for birdwatching and howler monkeys. With altitudes ranging from 1,750 to 2,276 meters, its main ecosystem is the Andean forest, which is home to 60 mammal species, 307 bird species, 200 monkey species, and over 15 amphibian and reptile species.
You can choose from three trails from the visitor center, all accompanied by a guide. Note that there is only one tour per day on weekdays and two tours per day on weekends.
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HAVING FUN AND RELAX
Between outdoor activities, family attractions, and well-deserved rest.
It’s an activity I love, especially after a long day of hiking. The only downside is you’ll have to ignore the occasional rotten egg smell due to the sulfur (volcanic activity). Depending on the location, these hot springs are more or less developed—they can range from looking like a municipal pool to a small hot water basin lost in the mountains.
The most well-known hot springs are:
- Near Pereira: Santa Rosa de Cabal (very developed and very popular) and San Vincente (semi-developed).
- The hot springs route from Manizales: Tierra Viva (small and nice in the evening), El Otoño, El Ruiz.
- In the Nevados: Termales del Cañón (100% natural).
The Coffee Region boasts several theme parks, offering numerous attractions and activities perfect for children. But if you’re seeking authentic experiences, you might want to skip them. The major parks include PANACA (focused on agriculture), Parque Arrieros (focused on culture), and Parque del Café.
All are situated in Quindio.
Nothing compares to flying like a bird to truly appreciate the breathtaking scenery of the Coffee Region. The sole paragliding center is in Buenavista (1 hour from Armenia), and you can also reserve a hot air balloon ride in Montenegro.
The arrieros (mule drivers) played a significant role in the development of the coffee region, and even today, many locals travel by horseback around their farms.
If you’re a beginner, a 2-3 hour excursion around Salento will be perfect for you. For the more experienced, multi-day trips are possible, crossing stunning landscapes like the paramos or the Cocora Valley, fording rivers, and spending the night in authentic fincas (farms). It’s a great way to step into the shoes of an arriero—but watch out for sore backsides!
Exploring the Coffee Region by bicycle is another fantastic option. Certain agencies provide 2, 3, or 5-day tours that combine cycling with visits to tourist attractions. Another excellent activity is to take a jeep ride up to La Carbonera (1.5 hours from Salento) and then ride 20 km downhill on a mountain bike. Beware of the mud and the adrenaline rush!
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FAUNA AND FLORA
What can you observe in the coffee region?
The paramos are an essential ecosystem in Colombia, serving as the source of the country’s rivers. These very humid areas lie between 3,000 and 4,500 meters in altitude. This ecosystem is present in only five countries globally, with the majority located in Colombia.
The most iconic plant is the Frailejón, and numerous animals, including the spectacled bear, tapir, ocelot, puma, and condor, live here.
In the Coffee Region, the paramos you can explore are Páramo Los Nevados, Páramo del Chili (Pijao), and Páramo de Tátama (Sanctuario).
The wax palm (Ceroxylon quindiuense) is endemic to the Andean forest of Colombia and can reach up to 60 meters in height. Trust me, you feel tiny standing next to it. It can live up to 200 years and grows very slowly—it takes nearly 80 years to resemble a palm tree. Its impressive appearance contributes to breathtaking landscapes, which is probably why Colombia chose it as the national tree in 1985.
The most famous place to see them is the Cocora Valley, but they are gradually disappearing due to the lack of new shoots (eaten by cattle). A good tip to avoid tourists is to see them at La Samaria (near Salamina) or La Carbonera—there are actually 100 times more wax palms there than in the Cocora Valley.
he Coffee Region is also a paradise for birdwatchers, especially in certain coffee plantations, national parks, and around Manizales and Pereira. The most sought-after species include Penelope perspicax, Pyroderus scutatus, Grallaricula cucullata, Ognorhynchus icterotis, the famous condor, as well as many species of hummingbirds—I saw many in the Recinto del Pensamiento.
The most well-known birdwatching sites in the Coffee Region are:
- Rio Blanco (Manizales)
- Paramo de los Nevados
- Paramo de Tátama
- La Carbonera (Salento)
- Otun Quimbaya (Pereira)
Colombia is home to nearly 4,000 butterfly species, and you can easily spot a few at the Jardin Botanico del Quindio (near Armenia). Admission is paid (quite pricey for a botanical garden) and provides access to a 2-hour guided tour with a local guide.
This could be a great family plan.
Considered the alarm clock of the forest (they howl at sunrise), howler monkeys are quite difficult to spot—it’s best to go early in the morning. The two most well-known places to see them in the Coffee Region are the Otun Quimbaya Reserve and the Barbas Bremen Reserve (Filandia).
Coffee culture
How to immerse yourself in the Zona Cafetera.
The Coffee Region has numerous colonial villages. I find Salento a bit overhyped (too many people). I prefer staying in Salamina, Pijao, and Filandia to feel more like a local. No matter where you go, the key is to take your time, sip a coffee in the main square, and wander through the colorful streets.
This is a very easy activity to undertake, as many coffee plantations offer it. The most organized fincas (sometimes feeling less authentic) are around Salento. I’ve found excellent ones near Pijao and Filandia—fewer crowds.
Tours can vary from a brief visit (1-2 hours) of the finca to observe the different stages of coffee harvesting to more detailed tours that include coffee tasting, various brewing methods (French press, V60, Chemex, etc.), and explanations of the difference between regular and specialty coffee (semi-washed or natural). Be sure to book a tour with lunch included. It’s always plentiful and delicious.
The roasted coffee packets sold on-site also make excellent gift ideas.
Less famous than coffee, Colombian chocolate is also highly regarded. This visit is particularly enjoyable for food lovers and families. In addition to the plantation tour, you can taste the sweet pulp around the cacao bean and craft your own chocolate bar.
The Panela tour occurs in trapiches, and it’s quite difficult to experience since it’s still done in a very traditional, small-scale way and isn’t very tourist-oriented. I recommend contacting a local agency to set it up. The process of making panela includes extracting juice from sugar cane, boiling it in different vats for purification, and turning it into sugar.
Basketry, the art of weaving objects from plant fibers (notably for making baskets), is a well-known craft in Filandia. If you’re more interested in hats, be sure to visit one of the Aguadas workshops, where these stunning headpieces are handcrafted from Iraca palm.
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WHERE TO STAY IN THE COFFE REGION
My favorite hotels in the Coffee Axis.
In the Coffee Region, stunning old buildings (100 to 200 years old) have been adapted to host travelers. Some are situated on vast estates, featuring impressive gardens and parts used for agriculture—often for coffee! These accommodations are known as fincas or haciendas, offering a complete coffee experience. This is particularly true for smaller fincas, as they have only a few rooms, making the owner more accessible.
Here are some accommodation suggestions:
- Hacienda Venecia: A large estate near Manizales with both a “boutique hotel” section and a more economical dormitory section. It’s an excellent site for birdwatching.
- Reserva Guadalajara: Lodging near Salento for horse and coffee lovers.
- Finca Los Tulipanes: A very cozy small coffee finca near Filandia, ideal for sharing good moments with the owner.
- Finca el Otoño: A small paradise near Pijao, far from the usual tourist trails.
Glamping offers a more comfortable alternative to traditional camping. It is typically set in beautiful natural surroundings and this type of accommodation pairs perfectly with the landscapes of the Coffee Region.
Here are a few glamping suggestions:
- Entre Rios: An unusual stay near Armenia in Safari-style tents, with many activities on offer.
- Glamping Lumbre: A bit expensive for what it is, but you wake up just a stone’s throw from the Cocora Valley.
- Monte Tierra: Spacious, well-equipped domes to enjoy the scenery of Filandia.
Staying at large thermal resorts like Santa Rosa de Cabal or San Vicente doesn’t appeal to me. You might get bored, and your skin will get all wrinkly.
However, I know of two small accommodations that are worth checking out:
- Termales del Ruiz: A small hotel at the base of Nevado del Ruiz, ideal for birdwatching and trekking. Beware, it gets very cold at night.
- Termales La Quinta: A stunning 20th-century property with only 6 rooms, secluded in the mountains.
You can easily see birds in the coffee fincas. However, if you’re after a specific species or travel with a big camera for bird photography, there are specialized accommodations for that:
- Owl’s Watch in Rio Blanco: Near Manizales.
- Montezuma Rainforest Ecolodge: Next to Tátama National Park.
- Hotel Tinamu: Between Manizales and Pereira.
Some high-end hotels in the Coffee Region stand out for their excellent service, facilities, or locations—which often reflects in their prices. One thing is certain: you’ll never want to leave!
- Nido del Condor: Luxury glamping on the edge of a canyon for easy condor spotting. Accessible from Manizales.
- Hacienda Bambusa: A luxurious hacienda south of Armenia with only 8 rooms, surrounded by coffee and cacao plantations.
- Sazagua: An outstanding boutique hotel offering many experiences for a stress-free stay.
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EATING AND DRINKING
Here are some specialties of the Eje Cafetero.
It’s not a specialty per se, but I love it so much that it deserves its own section. Most of the products come directly from the farm and are made with love.
Breakfast is always hearty to provide the energy needed for the day’s tasks. It typically includes arepa, chocolate milk, rice, beans, scrambled eggs, coffee, fruit juice, and sometimes a broth with a piece of meat.
The same goes for lunch. It always starts with another delicious soup accompanied by potatoes and yuca. The main course usually consists of rice, grilled meat, plantain, and a small salad to ease the conscience.
In short, it’s impossible to leave hungry from a finca.
These are trout fillets, deboned and cooked in a garlic sauce. They are often served on a large fried patacon (plantain). The trout might be a bit overcooked for my liking, but the sauce is always delicious.
This is especially a specialty of Salento. I suggest the restaurant Dónde Laurita.
Colombians have a sweet tooth, especially during the Christmas season. On the streets, you can find natilla, dulce de breva (fig jam), arequipe, arroz de leche (rice pudding), obleas, and many other treats!
Eating well is 50% of a successful trip (yes, I just made that up). Generally, the best restaurants in the Coffee Region are found in the larger cities. But there’s an exception: Filandia. This village is known for its culinary scene, with the top spot going to Helena Adentro.
If you stay around Pereira, you can enjoy the view at Octavo (near Cerritos) or try the delicious chorizo at La Postrera Campestre. And if you’re between Salento and Filandia, make sure to order local specialties at El Roble.
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TransportATION
Getting around the Coffee Region
There are three main airports in the Coffee Region. The best-served is Pereira. Another good option is Armenia. I don’t recommend Manizales because flights are often canceled or delayed due to bad weather.
It’s easy to get around the Coffee Region by bus, and the main cities as well as the tourist villages are well connected.
It’s a frequently used way to travel between villages (or to the Cocora Valley). The departures are scheduled at fixed times, but the jeep will depart sooner if it fills up. You’ll be surprised at how many people can fit in, with two travelers standing at the back—I personally love it!
The Coffee Region is an excellent place to rent a car for a few days. With its compact area and well-maintained roads, you can easily visit various tourist sites in one day, minimizing the need to switch hotels frequently.
These large, colorful buses travel along dirt roads to transport goods from village to village. It’s a bumpy, noisy, and very authentic journey.
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Favorite experiences in the coffee axis
Directly contact the best local agencies for this destination
Los Nevados: Santa Isabel glacier ascent 3D
Colombia
3 Days
1 place
The perfect combo of high and medium-altitude mountains plus the discovery of numerous ecosystems.
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Los Nevados: Nevado del Tolima glacier ascent 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
The perfect combo between effort, mountaineering, tropical glacier, and other amazing ecosystems.
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Los Nevados: From Cocora Valley to the Otun valley 3d
Colombia
3 Days
1 place
A great option for a first multi-day mountain trek through Colombia's typical landscapes.
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