Colombia Travel Guide
SANTA CRUZ DE MOMPOX
Colombia
Nestled in the Bolívar department, between two twists of the Magdalena River, Mompox (officially Santa Cruz de Mompox) is a perfect destination if you want to explore Colombia through the lens of a Spanish colonial town suspended in time. The stunning buildings in the historic center are part of the UNESCO World Heritage—like a mini Cartagena, but not as showy.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT MOMPOX, COLOMBIA
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general overview
A sleeping colonial gem.
Mompox (Santa Cruz de Mompox or Mompós) is a city of nearly 50,000 residents located inland on the Caribbean Coast in the Bolívar department.
Mompox is positioned between two arms of the Magdalena River, Colombia’s largest river, making it a river island from a geographical standpoint. Mompox has historically benefited from this unique river port position, serving as a key commercial crossroads, a strategic location during the independence war, and a starting point for explorers.
Mompox is 4.5 hours away from Valledupar, 6 hours from Cartagena, 6 hours from Barranquilla, and 5.5 hours from Santa Marta.
Mompox was established in 1537 by Alonso de Heredia, the brother of Pedro de Heredia (the founder of Cartagena)—although some historians credit its founding to Juan de Santa Cruz, governor of Cartagena in 1540.
Its location on the Magdalena River was chosen to create a safe riverport. The town quickly flourished as a key hub for transporting goods upstream. Known for its royal mint, it gained fame for its talented goldsmiths.
Mompox continued to prosper commercially for more than 300 years. It provided a haven for the riches accumulated by the Spaniards in the face of pirate threats. On August 6, 1810, it was the first town in Colombia to proclaim independence from Spanish rule, which earned it recognition from Simón Bolívar.
In the late 19th century, the silting of the Magdalena River began to greatly hinder the transport of goods, leading to the town’s gradual isolation. Its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in 1995 has since attracted well-deserved tourist interest.
Visiting Mompox is like stepping into a novel by Gabriel García Márquez, the most celebrated Colombian writer and Nobel Prize winner in literature; it’s a journey through Colombia’s colonial past.
This town, seemingly frozen in time, exudes a delightful atmosphere combining the richness of its history, reminiscent of Cartagena, with the charm of a colonial village. The historical center, the peaceful environment, the splendid colonial homes, some converted into hotels, and the local craft workshops make Mompox a destination worth exploring.
I loved Mompox, but you’ll need a local guide’s help to appreciate it fully.
Mompox has a hot and humid climate. Daytime temperatures generally range between 27°C and 35°C throughout the year, and the heat and humidity can sometimes be unbearable.
The best time to visit Mompox is during the dry season, from December to April, when you can avoid heavy rains. Speaking of rain, it rained one morning during my stay in Mompox. The town suddenly turned into a ghost town, not a soul in the streets until the rain stopped.
The rainiest months are from September to November. The advantage is that temperatures drop a bit.
Avoid the high season in January, Easter week, and the jazz festival held every year in September or October. Book your accommodation in advance if you plan to visit during these times.
One day might be enough for a quick visit, but Mompox reveals its beauty to those who linger. Staying for two nights allows you to better soak in its atmosphere and uncover some of its secrets.
Since Mompox is not very close, it would be a pity to travel all that way and end up bored. Therefore, the best plan is to arrange a 3 to 4-day stay with a local agency.
During my four-day stay, I could attend various workshops. Interacting with the locals and wandering along the Magdalena River made this trip special.
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Things to do in Mompox
My favorite activities in Mompox
If you enjoy hearing stories while admiring architectural beauty like me, then take a guided tour.
For 2.5 hours, you’ll wander through the historic center, where the richly decorated balconies and galleries of the colonial mansions reflect Mompox’s past opulence. You’ll discover the remarkable Calle de La Albarrada and its 17th-century “workshop houses,” the individual houses (17th-19th centuries) with their patios will show you how the architecture adapted to the climate.
You’ll admire numerous buildings, such as the Church of the Immaculate Conception on the main square and the Church of Santa Bárbara, my favorite—where I enjoyed the view of the town from the top of its bell tower. The Rosario de Mompox Cemetery, with its all-white tombs inhabited by many cats, and the Hostal Doña Manuela with its impressive ficus tree, a centuries-old tree.
Finally, a visit to the Casa de la Cultura will give you a deeper understanding of the town’s history and introduce you to the work of Candelario Obeso Hernández, a poet native to Mompox and a pioneer of “dark and somber poetry” in Colombia.
The history of Mompox is fascinating, full of twists and turns, and deserves to be discovered through the eyes of a guide.
You can also combine this historical center tour with a photo tour. Our guide, Alfred, lent me his uncle’s bike to ride along the promenade with Aleja. It made for some very nice photos and memories.
Mompox’s history is deeply connected to the Magdalena River. I suggest a stroll along the promenade, about 1 km between the San Francisco Church and the Santa Barbara Church.
It’s a peaceful spot, perfect for starting or ending your day. Here are some of my favorite spots:
- Enjoying a coffee at Café 1700, sitting in a rocking chair under the porch.
- Sipping a drink on the terrace at Crónicas in the evening while admiring the church’s lighting on the main square.
- Having lunch under the trees at El Comedor—I particularly enjoyed their duck dish.
- Relishing a delicious fresh fruit juice at the corner of Calle 18 and Carrera 1. Try the grapefruit with guanabana.
Mompox is internationally acclaimed for the finesse of its filigree art, a tradition inherited from its goldsmith heritage. Over time, artisans have transitioned from gold, which became too rare, to silver. This craft, originating from Andalusia after the Ottoman occupation, involves weaving fine threads of gold or silver to create delicate jewelry inspired by nature and geometric patterns. The artisans of Mompox compete in skill to create true little marvels.
In a 3-hour workshop, under the guidance of a jeweler, I made a small heart-shaped silver piece starting from molten metal. I loved it. My wife wears it around her neck, and believe me, I’m proud because it was hard work!
I love discovering a place through its crafts and culinary traditions; it’s a great way to understand and engage with local customs.
In Mompox, you can meet artisans who will introduce you to their work and share their everyday lives. I met a family that makes “queso de capa,” a type of mozzarella, and I visited a workshop where they produce the “silla Mecedora Momposinas,” the typical rocking chair of the Caribbean coast.
I also took the public boat across the Magdalena River to have lunch with a lovely family. We shared a typical and delicious meal of fish with coconut rice, and they gave me a tour of their farm.
Food enthusiasts or anyone curious about local cuisine can join a cooking workshop with a chef. The chef will take you to select fresh produce at the market before cooking and enjoying the meal in a beautiful setting (the workshop lasts 3 hours).
Mompox is surrounded by a vast and peaceful marsh, the Ciénaga de Pijiño, where many bird species, such as kingfishers, falcons, and cormorants, nest. To truly enjoy the area’s tranquility, I recommend taking a small boat with a local guide.
To get there, we navigated a long natural canal that connects the river to the ciénaga, stopping several times to observe the birds and listen to the stories of our guide, Chipi.
There’s a lot of life along these shores, especially in the late afternoon. Cows graze while watching us, men cast their fishing nets, women do laundry, and huge iguanas bask in the sun. I even saw a 5-year-old riding bareback to herd cattle—how impressive!
Every year, the river overflows, and the locals leave for a few months before returning to start over again.
The excursion lasts 3 hours and ends with a sunset over the Magdalena River.
On weekends and during the high season, you can watch the sunset over the Magdalena River from large barges. It’s a more local experience with many people, music, and cocktails.
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WHERE TO STAY IN MOMPOX
My favorite hotels in Mompox
You should stay in the peaceful historic center of Mompox. Old colonial houses have been restored into comfortable hostels or luxurious establishments catering to all budgets.
To fully enjoy Mompox’s serene atmosphere, I suggest finding a hotel that overlooks the promenade. It’s very quiet because there are no vehicles, and these are the most beautiful colonial houses, with gigantic entrance doors and patios to let the fresh air circulate.
The lovely part of the historic center stretches from Calle 20 to Calle 14 and from the promenade to Carrera 2.
For budget travelers, Hostal Cultural La Candelaria is a great option. The hostel offers double to quadruple rooms that are simple, comfortable, and very clean. The shared kitchen is also well-equipped.
The owners, committed to local culture, have created a serene ambiance.
In the mid-range category, Hotel Nieto Mompox is ideally located on the banks of the Magdalena River and close to restaurants and shops.
Beautifully decorated with everyday handcrafted items, its traditional cuisine and welcoming atmosphere make it perfect for families or solo travelers.
I particularly enjoyed the peaceful character of its hacienda-style patio with hammocks.
For a luxury option, Hotel Bioma Boutique is an excellent choice.
I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at this beautiful hotel, which successfully combines modern amenities with the charm of a typical Momposina house. With its central location, comfortable rooms—though those on the first-floor lack windows—a lovely pool, and unmatched hospitality, it is a fantastic option for couples.
The only slight downside is that the rooms could use more decoration. I suggest opting for a room on the second floor.
Still in the high-end category and located along the Magdalena River, Hotel San Rafael impressed me with its spacious interiors, quality amenities, and noble materials.
A heavy double-door gate opens onto the grand hall of this beautifully restored colonial mansion. The comfortable rooms are decorated with great taste.
I recommend the rooms on the second floor for their splendid view. The breakfast is delicious, and the coffee is excellent. It’s a dream location for a romantic getaway. A charming patio features a pool, though it could use a bit more shade.
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Eating and drinking
My favorite bars and restaurants in Mompox.
If you’re a fan of good coffee, head to Café 1700, a beautiful establishment by the Magdalena River. Sit by the large windows and watch people go by. You can also enjoy a delicious sandwich or a glass of natural fruit juice.
The vintage decor adds to the charm of this café and contributes to its serene ambiance.
El Comedor Costeño on the banks of the Magdalena River is a great place for lunch in Mompox. With good food and reasonable prices, I had an excellent time there and especially enjoyed the duck dish.
If you crave a sweet treat while strolling through the town, stop by Crepes D’la Villa beneath its colorful umbrellas. They offer a wonderful selection of crepes, waffles, and ice cream.
You absolutely must try their Corozo yogurt ice cream; take it from a fellow foodie.
For a drink, I suggest visiting the bar-restaurant Crónicas on the main square of Mompox. You’ll have a view of the river from the back terrace or a view of the square facing the church, all while sitting on the famous Mompox rocking chair!
Regarding corozo wine (from the fruit of a palm tree), it’s a Mompox specialty. Many stores, like Vino Mompox, offer free tastings, so you can try it and take a bottle home as a souvenir. It’s surprisingly good, and now there are several other flavors besides Corozo.
For dinner, I recommend Santa Coa on the banks of the Magdalena River. They serve delightful local and international dishes in their cozy, verdant patio. Alternatively, you can dine with a river view. Their Momposino burger is a specialty, and the risottos are particularly well done.
Another excellent choice is Ambrosia Restaurante Bar in the historic center. It’s known for its Lomo Momposino—though the sauce was too sweet for my liking. The place has a friendly atmosphere, great Latin-Caribbean and international cuisine, delicious fruit juices, and efficient service. The price is a bit higher, but it’s worth it.
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How to get to Mompox
Quite an adventure, by road or by air.
You have the choice between puerta-puerta and the bus.
The puerta-puerta is a door-to-door service with a driver. The hotels in Mompox usually know a few of them, so ask. These drivers only speak Spanish. The trip takes about 6 hours.
Otherwise, there are also direct buses.
- Santa Marta only has one bus per day (with Copetran), and it takes 9 hours, so it’s not a very good option.
- However, there are 3 bus departures from Cartagena to Mompox (with Unitransco), and the trip is almost as fast (6 hours) since it’s direct.
There is no bus station in Mompox. Each bus company has its own small sales point along the main road on the outskirts.
I took that route to get here from Isla Fuerte. I heard a van goes directly from Sincelejo to Mompox, but I couldn’t find more information.
The fastest option (the one we chose) is to take a shared taxi from Sincelejo, which will drop you off at Magangué (1.5 hours), then take another shared taxi to Mompox (1.5 hours).
Depending on your luck, you might end up in a nice vehicle with air conditioning or an old, dusty car that, surprisingly, still runs.
The taxis depart when there are at least three passengers. It’s best not to have large luggage for this trip (only one small trunk).
This is the fastest option if you’re coming from the south (Medellin, Cali, Bogotá) and can’t take the direct flight from Medellin to Mompox (see the next section).
Direct flights are from Medellin, Bogota, Barranquilla, and Bucaramanga to Valledupar.
From there, you need to take private transport for 3.5 hours.
There is now a direct flight between Medellin and Mompox with Satena, twice a week. Note that departures are from the small Olaya Herrera Airport.
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Getting around Mompox
You must take your time.
I think this is the best way to experience Mompox’s charm. The historic center is small, making wandering through its narrow, cobblestone streets easy and enjoyable.
If I need to go farther or if my feet are sore, I opt for a tuk-tuk. They are easy to find and affordable, and it’s fun to see how skillfully the drivers navigate these “go-anywhere” vehicles—something you should try at least once!
Many people live on the other side of the river, where all the vegetables sold in Mompox are grown. Long metal boats shuttle back and forth along the banks. They carry everything from chickens and grandmothers to fruits and even motorcycles! We took one of these boats when our guide organized a lunch at a local’s home.
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Is Mompox safe?
The city’s historic center is safe at any time, day or night. It has a peaceful and welcoming vibe, and the residents are exceptionally friendly.
At night, the area outside the historic center feels a bit less secure. The streets are not as well-maintained and are poorly lit. I personally didn’t encounter any problems, but I suggest taking standard precautions if you venture outside the historic center.
itineraries
How to include Mompox in your Colombian trip.
Spend 3 nights on Isla Fuerte before visiting Mompox for another 3 nights. Then head to Valledupar for 2 nights to explore the history of Vallenato music before ending with an epic adventure in the Guajira desert.
After a few days in Medellin, fly to Mompox for a 3-night stay. Then head to Cartagena and the Islas del Rosario for 4-5 nights before moving on to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta to spend a few nights at a beautiful eco-lodge in Minca.
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