Colombia Travel Guide
Boyaca and Santander
Colombia
Boyaca and Santander are two bordering departments in the northeast of the Andean region. Boyaca offers numerous hiking opportunities in El Cocuy National Park and the paramos of Iguaque and Oceta, which are home to a unique ecosystem. You’ll also find charming colonial villages like Villa de Leyva and Monguí. Santander is the first department in Colombia to develop extreme sports activities such as rafting and paragliding.
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Barichara
VISITING BOYACA AND SANTANDER IN COLOMBIA
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general overview
Stunning Andean landscapes and peaceful colonial villages.
Boyacá and Santander are two neighboring departments in the Andean region in the northeast of Colombia—above Bogota. Santander is bordered to the north by the Norte Santander department, which borders Venezuela. They have just under 4,000,000 inhabitants and cover a total area of 53,000 km2. The main cities are Tunja (Boyacá) and Bucaramanga (Santander).
These two departments showcase a great diversity of geographical features, including mountains (many peaks over 3,000 meters), fertile valleys, deep canyons, paramos, semi-desert areas, and vast prairies. In Boyacá, you can find the Laguna de Tota, the largest lake in Colombia.
They also house national natural parks such as the Santuario de Fauna y Flora Iguaque, the Parque Nacional Natural del Cocuy, and the Parque Nacional de Chicamocha.
The stunning mountain landscapes rich in wildlife and flora in Boyacá and Santander are superb exploration grounds for hiking and nature enthusiasts. The more adventurous can ascend a paramo like Ocetá (nearly 4,000 m) or even higher, El Cocuy (5,400 m), a unique and amazing ecosystem.
Santander is renowned for its fabulous sites, which delight lovers of outdoor activities and extreme sports in breathtaking landscapes. For example, San Gil offers white-water rafting or paragliding over the dizzying Chicamocha Canyon.
Boyacá and Santander also host several colonial villages, true gems of colonial architecture with a peaceful atmosphere. The mountain village of Barichara is a pure marvel, and the charming village of Mongui is the perfect place to bring home a real soccer ball. As for Villa de Leyva, it’s a dreamy romantic stop to end your journey in Colombia.
Due to their wide geographical variety, Boyacá and Santander have a broad range of climates and temperature variations depending on altitude.
In Bucaramanga, temperatures range between 20°C (average minimum) and 27°C (average maximum). In Tunja, which is one of the highest cities in Colombia (2820 m), average temperatures range from 5°C to 17°C.
The rainy season is divided into two periods: April and May and September to November. Showers are not uncommon throughout the year. Avoid these months if you plan to explore a paramo.
4-5 days based in Villa de Leyva is perfect for enjoying the city’s atmosphere and leisurely exploring the charm of Boyacá’s colonial villages, alternating with short walks or bike rides in the surroundings.
If you love the mountains, split your week between a relaxing stay in the charming village of Mongui and the small town of El Cocuy, aptly named “City of Snow, Haven of Peace,” from where you can explore the stunning Sierra Nevada del Cocuy National Park.
A week is also the perfect duration for taking on a few small sporting challenges at the San Gil spots before savoring the peace and tranquility of Barichara.
Plan for 2 to 3 weeks for a road trip in a rental car from Bogotá, through Boyacá and Santander, leading you all the way to Bucaramanga.
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Paramos & Canyons
Beautiful landscapes and national parks.
El Cocuy National Park is Colombia’s most important glacial reserve, with more than 25 peaks between 4,800 m and 5,330 m. It is partially located in Boyacá. Sacred to the U’wa Indians, it is protected by a preservation program.
Three treks (from 14 to 22 km) open to the public will let you explore this marvel with a guide, showcasing a series of breathtaking landscapes as you climb.
You will cross equatorial forests, cloud forests, moorlands with crystal-clear lagoons, and expanses of frailejones, an endemic paramo plant, until you reach the eternal snow-capped peaks.
Visitor numbers are regulated, so you need to register the day before at the park office. The village of El Cocuy serves as a lovely base camp.
Also in Boyacá, the Siscunsí Regional Natural Park (Ocetá) is just as magnificent.
You’ll ascend through meadows and high Andean forest before arriving at an extraordinary landscape, a sea of frailejones covering the slopes of the paramo.
You can expect to spend 6 to 8 hours trekking the 15 to 18 km, reaching an altitude of 3,854 m.
Landowners who disagree with the park office frequently block access to the paramo from Monguí. Check with local guides about the situation; they know other access routes from the villages of Aquitania, Sogamoso, or Mongüa.
Located in Santander, north of Bucaramanga, the Santurbán paramo is a mountain massif within the Santurbán Mutiscua-Pamplona Regional Natural Park. This area offers a captivating landscape featuring a significant network of lagoons like La Laguna Brava and Laguna Verde, and rivers, making it a highly strategic water reserve for the department.
The climb through rocky terrain with low vegetation will lead you to Laguna Negra, at 3,783 m, which provides stunning views.
Tours depart from the village of Vetas.
The second largest canyon in the world, the Chicamocha Canyon is a natural marvel that starts its 227 km journey in Boyacá before making its way into Santander. With a depth ranging from 400 to 2,200 m, it offers an amazing variety of vegetation and some of the most impressive landscapes.
Several marked trails of different difficulty levels allow for hiking in the Chicamocha Canyon. If you’re not an avid hiker or traveling with family, you can explore the old cobblestone paths of the Camino Guane-Barichara without a guide. The Camino Pescadero-Mesa de Los Santos will lead more seasoned hikers to some of the most stunning viewpoints of the canyon.
The more adventurous can glide over the canyon by paragliding and enjoy caving, rafting, and other adrenaline-pumping sports.
Exploring the Chicamocha Canyon also involves experiencing the culture through the rock paintings left by the Guane people and discovering beautiful colonial villages like Barichara and magnificent churches, witnesses of the Conquista.
Though shorter in length, the Canyon de la Hondura in the Santander department is equally breathtaking. It overlooks the Rio Palermo and provides spectacular views of the Eastern Cordillera, especially from the Mirador del Cañón de la Hondura.
The Mirador can be reached by a trek that also takes you to the beautiful Cascada del Manto de la Virgen, featuring a 300 m waterfall. If the weather allows, you can swim in the natural pool at the base of the waterfall.
Treks are organized by agencies in Gámbita, the nearest town (2 hours by car north of Tunja).
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GOING ON AN ADVENTURE
Outdoor activities for everyone.
With its spectacular mountainous landscape cut by rivers and streams, San Gil in the Santander department, 2.5 hours by car south of Bucaramanga, is a top rafting destination in Colombia. It’s the ideal place for a sporting adventure in a beautiful setting.
A great spot is the Rio Suárez, offering a 16 km route (around 3 hours) through class 4 and 5 rapids, with breaks for swimming.
The Rio Fonce is more serene and, therefore, suitable for beginners or family outings. It offers an 11 km route (about 2 hours) with class 3 rapids.
San Gil is also very famous among paragliders, with a dream spot at the Chicamocha Canyon. The prices are reasonable.
Launch yourself into the void and fly over this grand landscape with an experienced instructor for a wonderful moment full of sensations and emotions. If the imposing Chicamocha Canyon intimidates you, you can also choose to fly from the Curití spot.
Another paragliding site is in Bucaramanga. You can glide over the surroundings in tandem with an instructor and even take lessons.
The Santander department boasts an impressive number of caves, including some remarkable ones like La Caverna del Aguilá (or Caverna de la Vaca), the largest in Colombia (7 km long), and La Cueva de la Tronera, where fabulous fossils, including remains of giant sloths, were discovered.
Near La Paz, the Caverna Hoyo de Aire is a huge open-air hole nearly 200 m deep, where you can rappel down. The bottom is covered with amazing vegetation where you can observe birds and explore a cave.
Near the small town of El Peñon, Bosques de Pandora Geo Parque is a park with a beautiful network of caves. It’s a great family activity.
Close by, Caverna El Oro is another astonishing site where you can admire magnificent stalactites and stalagmites.
Cycling lovers will find beautiful mountain routes in Boyacá and Santander.
A 20 km route around Monguí follows mountain trails and valleys. There is also a 40 km version.
Mountain biking circuits from Barichara offer half-day or full-day trips. Ride on dirt roads through tobacco plantations, pause at a waterfall, or climb to spectacular viewpoints over the Chicamocha Canyon.
If you already have your mountain bike, you will find beautiful routes around Villa de Leyva. You’ll pass through agricultural landscapes, climb to a pond, cross a green valley, and descend rocky paths.
For the more experienced, several one-day or multi-day routes allow you to explore Boyacá in mountainous and semi-desert landscapes, discovering beautiful sites such as the charming village of Ráquira, the Laguna de Tota, or El Paso del Ángel.
You can find route ideas on Bikepacking.
The mountainous landscapes of the region are home to stunning waterfalls and rivers where you can relax.
At Las Gachas near Guadalupe (Santander), you can swim in small natural pools carved into the riverbed. Colombians love it.
At Las Ventanas de Tisquizoque (Florián – Santander), the La Venta river plunges through a natural cave into a beautiful waterfall visible from the town.
Easily accessible, La Cascada de Los Caballeros (San José Suaita – Santander) is a huge wall of water cascading down the cliff in four levels. You can swim in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall.
Not far from San Gil, a path through tropical vegetation leads to La Cascada Juan Curi, a gorgeous site where you can dip and go torrenting.
Remember that the waterfalls are less impressive during the dry season.
© Tomplanmytrip
Culture & History
Discover Boyacá and Santander through its crafts and traditions.
In Barichara, you’ll learn how to make paper from plant fibers, participate in a painting workshop using pigments extracted from the nearby mountains, or shape clay pottery using the ancestral techniques of the Guane people.
Raquira is the pottery capital of Colombia. The charming colonial village is home to shops and workshops. You can work with clay in an introductory workshop.
For 80 years, the charming village of Monguí has built a solid reputation for making footballs, which women in the community sew by hand. You can sew your own ball.
In Santander, the famous Colombian coffee is cultivated.
At Hacienda El Roble, a charming finca on the Las Mesas de Las Santos plateau, you can tour the farm, learn the secrets of coffee production, and enjoy a tasting. You can also have lunch and stay at the farm.
If you’re near Barichara, visit Café Alfanía finca, an organic and family-owned farm. After touring the farm, you’ll enjoy coffee with arepas and cheese.
If you’re more into chocolate, head to San Vicente de Chucuri (Santander), Colombia’s largest cacao production center. You can discover the secrets of cacao processing and enjoy a tasting at a plantation.
The colonial villages of Boyacá and Santander have a peaceful atmosphere, and if you want to feel it, don’t rush.
In the early morning, have a coffee in the vast Plaza Mayor of Villa de Leyva and watch the town wake up. Visit a small museum to learn about local traditions or step into a church.
Wander through the cobbled streets of Barichara and admire the architectural unity of the traditional houses with their white walls and flowered wooden doors and balconies.
In the central square of Monguí, stop in front of the imposing basilica, a superb example of 12th-century Spanish colonial architecture.
Savor Colombian cuisine in a cozy little restaurant. Walk through the tree-lined central square of Zapatoca while enjoying a cocada, a traditional Colombian dessert.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY
The best hotels in Boyaca and Santander.
Glamping is popular in Colombia. It usually offers comfortable domes in beautiful settings that guarantee tranquility and privacy. Access is often challenging, and the quality/price ratio can vary, but it’s the perfect option for a romantic getaway.
The stunning mountainous landscapes around Barichara and the Chicamocha Canyon, as well as the areas around San Gil, are ideal for this type of accommodation.
- Glamping Serrania del Viento above Barichara is a small paradise with breathtaking views of the Chicamocha Canyon.
- More affordable, Glamping Monteverde above San Gil offers a superb panorama of the valley and surrounding peaks.
The beautiful Laguna de Tota (Boyacá) at 3,015 m altitude is also a fantastic site for glamping.
- At Quinta Glamping on the shores of the lagoon, you’ll have an incredible view of the lake from your bed.
- A dozen kilometers away at Nido Verde, you’ll feel at home in your large dome with a kitchenette.
In Barichara and its surroundings, you’ll find the most luxurious residences and hotels. High-quality services, refined decor, and an incredible view of the Chicamocha Canyon make it perfect for family or friends to gather and celebrate a special event.
At La Casa del Presidente, the staff will take excellent care of you, and a chef will prepare delicious meals just for you.
If you prefer magic and a change of scenery to luxury, choose Refugio de Roca in Los Santos (Santander), where you’ll feel like your bed is floating above the void.
Exquisite colonial architecture, few rooms, attentive staff, comfort, and lots of taste and detail in the decor make a boutique hotel an excellent choice for a romantic stay.
Villa de Leyva offers beautiful boutique hotel options:
- Casa Terra is a delicate gem.
- El Carmel is a more luxurious option with a lot of charm.
Barichara is also perfect for this type of accommodation:
- Perched at the top of the village, Casa Barichara Boutique offers a stunning mountain view.
- Just steps from the village, at Casa Yahri, you’ll be awakened by birds and enjoy your morning bath in a pool above the trees.
- After your explorations, you’ll appreciate the refreshing pool at Achiotte, hidden in its leafy patio.
You’ll also find charming hotels in Monguí like Hotel Calicanto Real Cafe Museo, a mansion by the river, and Hotel Casa Palosanto in Zapatoca, a traditional house with a beautiful garden right in the village.
Feel free to opt for a stay in the countryside around the colonial villages of Boyacá. There are less well-known options that are equally beautiful. This is the ideal choice if you’re looking for nature and want to experience your hosts’ daily lives.
If you’re a coffee lover, a beautiful coffee finca is an even better choice.
- In the countryside of the village of Iza, close to the Laguna de Tota, La Sarita Hospedaje Rural offers a charming, cozy chalet, and the hosts are wonderful.
- Finca Buenos Aires, 15 minutes by car from Barichara, has a stunning charm with its hacienda style and blue checkered pool, and you can take a coffee tour.
- In Tibasosa, Hotel Hacienda Suescún is a jewel for those who appreciate the elegance of a magnificent colonial heritage building and a scenic park.
- In the countryside, 30 minutes from San Gil, Finca Los Olivales offers a farm stay. It is perfect for a peaceful rest and to explore coffee culture.
EATING AND DRINKING
A region particularly famous for its gastronomy.
Indeed, ants… but not just any ants, the really fat ones! Literally, “big-bottomed ants.” These are one of the largest species of leaf-cutter ants.
This iconic dish of Santander cuisine is inherited from the Guane Indians, who used to slip them into their bags as a snack.
The ants are captured during the rainy season during their nuptial flight, being careful not to get bitten by their strong mandibles. They are eaten starting at Easter after removing their heads, wings, and legs, plunging them into salted water, and frying them. Swallow them whole without thinking!
They are said to have aphrodisiac properties.
Paipa cheese is arguably the most famous cheese in Colombia.
It is produced in Boyacá, more specifically in the Sogamoso Valley, where the town of Paipa is located. At this altitude (2,500 m), the pastures are particularly rich and healthy.
A semi-hard cheese, slightly crumbly, it has a somewhat acidic taste with a hint of bitterness and a slightly rancid aroma.
The modern recipe for queso Paipa was developed in the late 17th century with the introduction of Norman cattle. Today, it is made from the raw milk of selected Norman, Holstein, and Jersey cows.
It is a common ingredient in Colombian cuisine, and you can savor it on its own with a glass of good red wine, in gratins, pasta, soups, and salads.
Las Brevas con arequipe is a typical dessert from Boyacá.
These are figs that, after being harvested, are cooked in syrup and then covered with Arequipe.
Arequipe, also known as dulce de leche, is a South American specialty made from heavily sweetened milk reduced over heat. The result is a creamy concoction reminiscent of caramel.
Las Brevas con arequipe can also be accompanied by cheese for a sweet and salty combination.
This dessert is enjoyed all year round, but it is especially appreciated during Christmas.
Lamb or goat meat is a typical dish from Santander. It is eaten fried, baked, or roasted, often accompanied by an arepa Santandereana, a corn cake that is a staple of Colombian cuisine, and Mute, a rich, somewhat thick soup full of flavors made with various ingredients.
Carne oreada is one of the most traditional dishes of Santander cuisine. You will find it in every restaurant and piqueteaderos, lively and friendly eateries where people traditionally come to share meals with family or friends.
This dish consists of marinated, salted, and sun-dried beef. In the past, farmers would pull it from their bags to snack on during their days in the fields.
© Tomplanmytrip
TransportATION
Getting around in Boyacá and Santander.
Bucaramanga in Santander has the largest airport in the region (Palonegro International Airport). Numerous domestic flights are operated daily, particularly to Bogotá.
There is no airport in Tunja, the capital of Boyacá, but the airline Clicair offers a flight from Medellín to Paipa (Juan José Rondón Airport).
Renting a car is a very pleasant option for exploring Boyacá and discovering its many charming colonial villages.
Upon arrival at Bogotá Airport, you can also rent a car and set off on a road trip through Boyacá and Santander all the way to Bucaramanga.
Personally, I like to use the rental agency Localiza Rent a Car.
You’ll need to take multiple buses if you plan to explore Boyacá and Santander.
The main cities are well-connected by a good bus network, but smaller buses run the routes between villages.
For long journeys (9+ hours), I suggest traveling with night buses. Make sure to dress warmly, as the air conditioning is often very strong.
Tuk-tuks are a traditional mode of transport in the villages of Santander, such as Barichara.
You may get a bit jostled on the cobblestones, but these fun little vehicles can navigate through anything.
© Tomplanmytrip
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