Colombia Travel Guide
Cundinamarca & Tolima
Colombia
Mountainous and filled with fertile valleys, Tolima and Cundinamarca host many tourist attractions, including Bogotá, the vast capital surrounded by beautiful páramos, Zipaquira with its salt cathedral, Ibague with its traditional music festival, La Chorrera, the largest waterfall in Colombia, and excellent locations for hiking, canyoning, and hot springs.
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VISITING CUNDINAMARCA & TOLIMA, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
Two Colombian departments rarely explored by travelers.
Tolima and Cundinamarca are two departments in the Andean natural region, largely unexplored by travelers. Together, they span an area of 45,000 square kilometers—larger than Switzerland. They are densely populated, with nearly 16 million inhabitants, accounting for 30% of Colombia’s population. The two main cities are Bogotá (the capital of Colombia and Cundinamarca) and Ibagué (the capital of Tolima).
These departments are located roughly in the country’s center, between the coffee region, Antioquia, Los Llanos, and Boyaca.
You’re likely to land in Cundinamarca, as Bogotá has the largest airport in the country. The downside is that the Colombian capital isn’t very welcoming, and most travelers only stay for a night or two before heading to warmer destinations. However, if you’re interested in Colombian history, Bogotá is a must-visit due to its numerous museums.
But there’s more to Cundinamarca than just Bogotá. It’s a great chance to hike in the paramos and observe the unique flora and fauna. Or you can enjoy a romantic Glamping stay—plenty of options!
As for Tolima, Honda is an intriguing choice if you want to explore an authentic colonial village off the beaten path, enjoy the many hot springs in Murillo, discover a great alternative to the Valle de Cocora, or climb Nevado Tolima.
There isn’t a specific period that’s more interesting than others.
I have to say that Bogotá is much more enjoyable when the sky is blue, which often happens between December and March and July to August. These months are also ideal for hiking in general.
Make sure to check out the various events.
Bogotá has many music festivals (… Al Parque) and Ibagué is renowned for its fantastic traditional dance and music festival (Festival de Folclore Colombiano) in June.
It will depend on the rest of your itinerary in Colombia. Two full days in Bogotá are enough, but adding an extra day is wise if it’s your only chance to explore a páramo.
As for Tolima, it would be a shame not to stay at least 3-4 days to enjoy the impressive landscapes in Los Nevados.
To sum up, I would recommend 3-4 days if you only plan to visit Bogotá and its surroundings and about a week if you also want to explore Tolima.
NATIONAL PARKS & NATURE RESERVES
The best hikes in Cundinamarca and Tolima.
Sumapaz is the largest páramo in the world, covering about 330,000 hectares, of which 143,000 are protected as a national park. This place is steeped in history, from the Indigenous Muisca, who considered it sacred, to the guerrillas who settled there from 1980 to 2015 to launch a (failed) attack against Bogotá. Today, it is threatened by the intensive monoculture of potatoes.
Most of the park is closed to the public, and I recommend going through a local agency with good relations with the locals. The most classic trail, 14 km long, leads to the beautiful Laguna Ubchihica and its Frailejones forest. Good news; the entrance is free.
The Páramo de Chingaza (76,000 hectares) is an alternative to the Páramo de Sumapaz. Located 2 hours from Bogotá, the most well-known trail to the 3 Lagunas de Siecha, requires about 5 hours of hiking (a bit longer than the Páramo de Sumapaz).
Chingaza is renowned for its 40 lakes and delivers 80% of Bogotá’s drinking water. Like Sumapaz, visitors are drawn by the beautiful landscapes and the remarkable fauna and flora.
Access requires a fee, and daily visitor numbers are capped, so booking in advance is wise. I recommend using a local agency to manage all the logistics.
Located 1.5 hours from Bogotá, Chicaque Park is home to a cloud forest at an altitude between 2400 and 2700 meters.
The site offers various marked trails for observing wildlife and plants (you can choose whether to have a guide or not), as well as activities like zip-lining and tree climbing. It’s even possible to stay overnight.
While a good physical condition is necessary to fully enjoy it, it’s an ideal destination for families and bird lovers.
The Parque de los Nevados (58,300 hectares) is located between the Coffee Region and the Tolima department.
From Ibagué, you can see the famous Nevado del Ruiz (closed to the public) and also organize the challenging 5-day ascent of Nevado del Tolima, either via La Junta (difficult) or Palomar (more accessible).
This stunning trek takes you to an altitude of 5250 meters above sea level.
It’s not only in the Valle de Cocora that you can see the towering wax palms (over 60m tall). The largest concentration (more than 600,000) is found in the Toche corregimiento (located in the same area as La Carbonera).
From Ibagué, you can follow in the footsteps of Humboldt (a famous 19th-century naturalist) through the Cañón del Combeima (optional) before heading to the still very active Machín volcano. Relax in its thermal waters, and finish with a stunning walk through the wax palm forest. Depending on the route you choose, this activity lasts between 2 and 3 days.
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FAUNA & FLORA
Plants, animals, and ecosystems found in Cundinamarca and Tolima.
The páramo is a unique neotropical ecosystem, located between 3000 and 4500 meters of altitude in the Andes Mountains.
It plays an essential role in water management, capturing moisture to feed rivers and lakes, providing 60% of the water consumed in Colombia. The emblematic plant, the frailejón, grows very slowly, symbolizing the fragility of this environment.
Threatened by agriculture, mining, and climate change, the páramos are crucial for biodiversity and climate regulation.
Visiting a páramo with a good local agency allows you to discover a spectacular landscape and support the conservation of these natural treasures.
There are 4 páramos in Cundinamarca (Sumapaz, Chingaza, Guacheneque, El Verjón) and 5 in Tolima (covering 14% of the territory; Las Hermosas, Murillo, Chilí Barragán, Nevado del Huila, and Los Nevados).
The wax palm (Ceroxylon quindiuense), native to the Colombian Andean forest, can grow up to 60 meters tall. You’ll feel incredibly small standing next to these giants. They have a lifespan of up to 200 years and grow very slowly, taking about 80 years to look like full-grown palms. Their majestic presence creates stunning landscapes, which led Colombia to make it their national tree in 1985.
The best-known place to see them is the Cocora Valley. However, these trees are at risk because cattle eat the young seedlings. For fewer crowds, go to La Samaria near Salamina or Toche, where you’ll find many more than in Cocora.
Colombia is home to 20% of the world’s bird species (2000 out of 10,000). The various ecosystems of Cundinamarca and Tolima, due to the wide range of altitudes, make these departments a paradise for birdwatchers: subtropical and tropical forests, dry forests, riparian forests, lowland and mountain wetlands, cloud forests, and the páramo of the central Andes.
In Cundinamarca, over 1,000 bird species have been recorded on the E-bird app. The best places include coffee fincas (also filled with fruit trees), the páramos Sumapaz and Chingaza (with some luck, you might see the famous condors), the incredible Chicaque cloud forest (known for its tanagers, hummingbirds, warblers, flycatchers, and toucanets), and special spots like the Observatorio de Colibríes.
As for Tolima, over 850 bird species have been recorded. Some of the most well-known sites are Toche (10 species of parrots), Combeima Canyon (Yellow-headed Brushfinch), along the Magdalena River, and Los Nevados.
The spectacled bear, or Andean bear (Tremarctos ornatus), is native to South America and lives at altitudes up to 4750 meters. Its name comes from the white fur circles around its eyes, resembling glasses, which can sometimes extend to its chest.
Spotting a spectacled bear in Colombia is a rare privilege, but certain places offer better opportunities, such as Chingaza National Natural Park. During hikes in the páramo, you might see these bears directly or find their tracks, scratches on trees, territorial marks, beds, and feeding areas along the trails.
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RIVERS AND WATERFALLS
The best water activities in Cundinamarca and Tolima.
In these departments, you will find the two tallest waterfalls in Colombia:
- La Chorrera (1 hour from Bogotá, 3-hour hike) at 590 meters.
- La Plata (30 minutes from Ibagué, 2-hour hike) at 490 meters.
Other impressive waterfalls worth mentioning are:
- Cascada de Sueva (3 hours from Bogotá, 1-hour hike), 50 meters.
- Cascadas de Payandé (1 hour from Ibagué, 2-hour hike), 50 meters.
These waterfalls are must-see natural attractions in Cundinamarca and Tolima, offering breathtaking views and rewarding hikes.
The rafting routes aren’t as impressive as those in Antioquia or Santander, but they are excellent for beginners:
On weekends, many companies organize a 7.5 km rafting trip starting from Tobia (on the Rio Negro)—class 3 rapids.
In Ibagué, the Rio Coello is the popular choice. You can opt for a 5 km or 16 km descent—class 3 rapids.
For canyoning, Tobia is really the only place worth it. Note that the classic canyoning + rafting combo on the same day is only for beginners. If you’re looking for a full day of real canyoning, you must specify this to the agency and book a private excursion.
Murillo has 6 hot springs. The 2 most well-known are:
Termales de la Cabaña: Natural hot springs located at 3,950 meters in the village of La Cabaña, Murillo, Tolima. Access is only on foot, with a local guide, along a stunning 10 km trail. The area features an incredible palette of colors.
Termales el Sifón: This is a boiling river with turquoise water at 4,000 meters altitude. You need to move away from the source to let the water cool down. It’s also accessible from Manizales.
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culture and history
To better understand Colombia and enjoy the peaceful life of a colonial town.
If you want to discover authentic colonial villages free from blue-eyed tourists, I have some great options for you:
Guaduas: Nestled to the west of Cundinamarca, it offers a perfect blend of relaxation, history, and culture. Founded in 1572, its historic center has been a national monument since 1959. Explore its monuments, old houses, and the remnants of the Camino Real, just 3 hours by car from Bogotá.
Honda: Founded in 1539, this historical gem lies on the banks of the Magdalena River. As Colombia’s river capital from 1850 to 1910, it boasts a well-preserved historic center and a fascinating museum. Located nearly four hours from Bogotá, Honda is ideal for a weekend getaway, combining colonial charm, local cuisine, and warm hospitality.
Murillo: The tourist jewel of northern Tolima, 5.5 hours from Bogotá and 4 hours from Ibagué. Founded in 1872, this colorful village has preserved its centuries-old wooden houses, symbols of its architectural heritage. Nestled at the foot of the Nevado del Ruiz volcano, Murillo offers activities such as trekking in the páramo, and visiting the La Cabaña and Sifón hot springs. The welcoming residents maintain their traditional culture.
If you’re a museum fan, Bogotá is the place to go. The museums I find most interesting for understanding Colombia’s complex history are the Museo del Oro (focused on the country’s indigenous peoples), the Museo Nacional (which covers all of Colombia’s history), and the Claustro de San Agustín (on the conflict in Colombia).
There is also a small but interesting museum in Honda, the Museo del Río Magdalena (on the history of the Magdalena River).
Colombian museums are very rarely translated into English. You can use Google Image on your phone to translate the explanations (if you have internet) or go with a guide.
I love exploring coffee and cacao fincas. It’s the best way to experience the daily life of the locals and see firsthand the work that goes into a good cup of chocolate or coffee.
While it is possible to organize this type of activity from Bogotá, it’s easier to do so in other parts of Colombia, such as Antioquia or the Coffee Region.
However, Bogotá is an excellent destination for coffee tastings and understanding the difference between good and bad coffee!
Tolima isn’t a highly touristic area for foreign visitors, so there are very few bilingual guides.
If you want to talk with a local guide to better understand Colombia’s history, you should do so during your visit to La Candelaria in Bogotá.
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WHERE TO STAY
The best hotels in Tolima and Cundinamarca.
Colombians are fond of glamping. These sites often feature very comfortable domes in picturesque settings, perfect for a romantic stay (1 or 2 nights) with your significant other.
However, as glamping is quite popular, the value for money isn’t always the best. So, take your time before making a reservation.
Another thing to keep in mind is accessibility. These sites are often hard to reach by public transport.
You’ll find many glamping sites in the Cundinamarca department.
- Choosing one to the east or north of Bogotá (around La Calera, Guatavita, and Choachí) means it will be cold at night.
- Choosing one to the west of Bogotá (towards Villeta and San Francisco), means it will be warmer.
Here are a few glamping sites I recommend:
- Danta Glamping in Guatavita: perfect deal.
- Latibule Glamping in La Vega: a house of glass.
- Casa Quincha in San Francisco: the perfect dome.
I consider these accommodations even more spectacular than glamping. Often expensive, they’re meant for you to spend all your time there.
- Sukha Resort: A boutique hotel with 5 rooms offering stunning views, just 30 minutes from Bogotá.
- La Palma y El Tucan: A unique stay in the heart of a coffee plantation, 1.5 hours from Bogotá.
- Casa Sumapaz: Perfect for a spiritual retreat.
- Observatorio de Colibríes: Live among hummingbirds, 1.5 hours from Bogotá.
Additionally, several high-end villas with pools are available for rent with friends, especially near Melgar and Girardot (warm climate).
These eco-hotels, also known as eco-lodges, are located in remote areas, surrounded by stunning vegetation, and promote responsible tourism.
Prices will be higher than average because of their distance from urban centers. You pay extra for the setting.
- Ukuku Rural Lodge: A green haven in the Cañon del Combeima, 45 minutes from Ibagué.
- EntreAguas Reserva Natural: A natural reserve ideal for families, 30 minutes from Ibagué.
I prefer boutique hotels over large Hilton-style hotels. The rooms often have much more character, with lovely decoration and a soothing atmosphere. And since they host fewer guests at once, the service is often excellent and personalized.
My favorite style? When these hotels are located in restored colonial buildings.
In Cundinamarca, they can be found either in the historic center of La Candelaria (Bogotá) or in Guaduas:
- The Orchids: A luxury boutique hotel in La Candelaria.
- Camino a Santa Fe: A restored house from 1852 in Guaduas.
In Tolima, it’s better to visit Honda:
- Hotel Boutique Posada Las Trampas: A 17th-century house with a pool.
- Hotel Casa Belle Epoque: Simple but pleasant.
EATING AND DRINKING
Some specialities from Tolima and Cundinamarca.
Ajiaco, a signature dish of Bogotá, is a flavorful soup made with multiple varieties of local potatoes. Guasca, a pre-Hispanic herb, adds a distinctive taste. Served with chicken, corn, avocado, cream, capers, and bread, it’s a favorite on Sundays and during festive occasions.
Perfect for the cold days in Bogotá, it’s a dish I always find good but never quite delicious—the chicken breast tends to be a bit bland. But you should definitely try it to see for yourself 🙂
The most well-known place to eat Ajiaco is La Puerta Falsa. However, it often has long queues, and the quality has declined over time (a downside of fame).
I suggest going to Santa Fe restaurant in La Macarena instead.
The Colombian tamal, a traditional dish with pre-Hispanic roots, consists of corn, meats, and vegetables, wrapped in banana leaves. Steamed to perfection, it develops a unique flavor. Often served for breakfast with Colombian hot chocolate, it’s also great for dinner.
They are found everywhere, but since living in Colombia, I’ve often heard about the famous Tamales de Tolima. The main difference is that they are wrapped in a different type of banana leaf: cachaco.
In Ibagué, the consensus is clear: you must try Tamales de Saldaña Don Floro.
However, you can also enjoy tamales by simply going to the market. There’s the grand Paloquemao Market in Bogotá or Lechoneria Tolima Grande Nani Y Lucho at the Plaza Mercado 28 in Ibagué.
The Colombian lechona, originating from Tolima, is a whole pig stuffed with peas, onions, herbs, and spices, then slowly roasted until the meat is tender. Introduced by the Spaniards in the 16th century, it has become a traditional dish. Typically prepared for celebrations, it’s often served with arepas and enjoyed for its conviviality.
It’s Adrien’s favorite dish, and I hope we’ll go to El Espinal on June 29th to celebrate El Día de la Lechona!
Hot chocolate with cheese is an iconic beverage in Colombia, but I’ve particularly seen it in Cundinamarca.
Made with high-quality Colombian cacao, the recipe is simple: boil milk with a chocolate tablet, then pour it over chunks of fatty cheese in a cup. The unique combination of sweet and salty creates a beloved taste experience throughout the country.
Wanna try making it at home before coming to Colombia?
When traveling, it’s important to eat well. And in this part of Colombia, there’s Bogotá. Believe me, there are plenty of delicious restaurants—until you get a food coma
Try a gastronomic restaurant (Leo, El Cielo, Prudencia) if your budget allows.
Otherwise, don’t worry; you’ll also find more affordable restaurants.
The best restaurants are located in the La Macarena, Parque 93, and Zona G neighborhoods (G for gastronomic).
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TRANSPORTation
Getting around Cundinamarca and Tolima.
Bogotá boasts a major international airport (El Dorado) with numerous domestic flights to all parts of Colombia (excluding the Pacific coast). You must transit through Bogotá to reach the Amazon or the Llanos.
Ibagué also has an airport (Perales), offering direct flights to Bogotá and Medellín.
Similarly, Bogotá can take you almost anywhere in Colombia (as long as there are roads). The capital is connected to all major cities (without transfers). However, these trips can last more than 10 to 20 hours, depending on your destination.
I enjoy taking night buses for long distances. One piece of advice: make sure to be VERY well covered before getting on a night bus. They are like rolling refrigerators.
Thanks to its central location, Ibagué is also well connected.
Despite Bogotá’s terrible traffic and the fact that Colombians drive with impressive sportiness, renting a car is still worth considering.
You can rent a car when you arrive at the airport, then embark on a road trip through the departments of Boyacá and Santander, or make multiple stops before heading to Medellín or Ibagué.
There are plenty of taxis in Colombia. It’s the easiest way to get around in the city.
In Bogotá and Ibagué, they use a taximeter. But this isn’t the case in small villages. You’ll need to agree on the price before getting into the taxi.
I haven’t always had a good experience with Bogotá taxis. Half of them try to scam you by raising the price for one reason or another. Plus, there are some rather concerning stories regarding safety.
In Bogotá, I prefer using apps like UBER or Didi.
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Tom & Adrien
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