Colombia Travel Guide
Western Caribbean Coast
Colombia
Less frequently visited than the east coast, the western Caribbean coast is more authentic with its small peaceful villages and landscapes of white sand beaches, jungle, and mountains. It is the perfect spot for fans of hiking, diving, and snorkeling, and for those who prefer nature and tranquility over the hustle and bustle of cities.
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Capurganá
VISITING COLOMBIA’S WEST CARIBBEAN COAST
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general overview
A hidden Colombian Caribbean full of beautiful surprises.
The West side of Colombia’s Caribbean coast stretches along the Caribbean Sea in the country’s northwest region. It primarily includes the departments of Sucre (Sincelejo), Córdoba (Monteria), and the northernmost point of El Chocó (Acandi). The population, predominantly Afro-Colombian, is just over 2 million people.
The scenery of the west Caribbean coast features expansive white sand beaches, idyllic islands like Isla Fuerte and the San Bernardo Islands, mangroves, and jungles such as those in the Darien Gap, a large area of swamps and forest on the border with Panama. Some reliefs are present at the very end of the northern tip of the Western Cordillera.
The Caribbean west coast offers a tranquil, off-the-beaten-path alternative to the much more touristy eastern Caribbean.
The coast boasts stunning beaches like Rincón del Mar, the San Bernardo Archipelago, and the beaches of Sapzurro.
It’s also a fantastic destination for hiking enthusiasts, who can explore the jungle in the Darién Gap near Trigana, discover waterfalls, and cool off in natural pools.
If you’re a nature lover, you can watch for wildlife, witness the strange phenomenon of plankton bioluminescence, or observe the nesting of the world’s largest turtles.
Snorkeling and diving enthusiasts will enjoy the waters around the beautiful Isla Fuerte.
The road network and public transportation on the Caribbean west coast are not well-developed. You’ll often need to combine several modes of transport and plan your route carefully to optimize your travel. But believe me, it’s worth it!
The climate in the Caribbean region is hot, with an average temperature of around 28°C. Humidity levels stay very high year-round.
There is a dry season from mid-November to March and a rainy season from April to October. The showers are usually brief.
Be mindful of the windy season from December to April, as the sea becomes rougher. This makes swimming around Isla Fuerte and Capurgana less ideal.
If you’re into diving, the season runs from May to November, with the best period being between August and November.
Visiting in May or June lets you see leatherback turtles nesting and hatching baby turtles.
Colombians love to flock to this region during the high season (mid-December to mid-January, Holy Week, weekends, and public holidays).
Since journeys on the Caribbean west coast can be time-consuming, I recommend allocating a week.
You could focus on exploring the Chocó Caribbean, with Capurgana, its surroundings, and the San Blas Islands, or savor the tranquility of Isla Fuerte and its surroundings before exploring the Colombian Caribbean towards Mompox.
Another option is discovering Rincón del Mar and the San Bernardo Archipelago before heading to bustling Cartagena de Indias.
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For a relaxing & fun stay
Time stops on the Caribbean Coast.
If you need to escape the hectic pace of your daily life, there’s nothing better than a relaxing getaway on a Caribbean paradise island!
Head to Isla Mucura or Isla Tintipan in the San Bernardo archipelago and enjoy the private beach at your hotel to rest, sunbathe, take a dip in the turquoise waters, and watch the sunset while sipping a cocktail.
Owned by Panama and managed by the Kunas people, the San Blas islands are a fantastic destination if you want to have fun in a tropical atmosphere with warm, rhythmic music in the background.
For a calm and laid-back stay in a forgotten place, choose the peaceful Isla Fuerte and simply enjoy the passing time.
If you seek authentic and peaceful settings, you’ll adore the atmosphere of a beach town on the Caribbean west coast.
Life is laid-back in Capurgana, a tiny secluded village where time seems to have paused. Your days will flow between jungle hikes, lounging on the beach, snorkeling in the turquoise waters, napping in a hammock, and savoring a “Coco Africa”, a delicious cocktail.
From Capurgana, you can reach the charming village of Sapzurro, equally tiny and forgotten by time, where life is just as sweet.
Hidden at the end of a road that turns into a trail is Rincón del Mar, with its gorgeous white sand beach. One dirt road, a simple life centered around fishing, and very welcoming locals—it’s wonderful.
If you’re itching to navigate turquoise waters, grab a paddleboard or kayak and follow the shoreline of Isla Fuerte or Isla Mucura in the San Bernardo archipelago, or go explore the mangroves on Isla Tintipan.
For a bit more adrenaline, and if you’re an experienced surfer, Punta Ingles on Isla Fuerte is renowned for its beautiful, technical waves from November to April.
Those curious about culture and crafts can join a workshop with locals. It’s an enjoyable moment of exchange and a constructive way to support local initiatives.
In Rincón del Mar, the Dos Aguas ecolodge offers cooking classes that will reveal the secrets of preparing traditional dishes like “Arepas e huevos”.
You can also learn how to make an Afro turban or get introduced to Caribbean rhythms like Cumbia.
The Caribbean West Coast is home to beautiful beaches like Playa Soledad, a wonder accessible by boat in 30 minutes from Capurgana. Surrounded by jungle and mangroves and lined with coconut trees, it’s ideal for sunbathing, swimming, and snorkeling.
From Sapzurro, you can reach the magnificent La Miel beach, a paradise beach in Panama, in a 20-minute walk. The area is peaceful, and you can refresh yourself at one of the beachside bars.
Isla Tintipan has the most beautiful beaches in the San Bernardo archipelago off the coast of Rincón del Mar. Much of the island is privatized by hotels, but there is a long public white sand beach on the island’s north coast.
Playa San Diego is the most beautiful beach on Isla Fuerte. It’s perfect for enjoying an “Agua de Coco” at sunset.
© Tomplanmytrip
For an adventure break
A lovely playground between sea and jungle.
Colombia is an affordable country for diving. Staying in Capurgana or Rincon del Mar while getting your certifications is an excellent way to enjoy the underwater world and the peaceful life of these villages—barefoot all day in the sand.
Less known to tourists, Isla Fuerte is appreciated by divers for its great spots an hour by boat from the island, such as Bushnell, a well-preserved 3km² reef.
In the Caribbean waters, you won’t need to wear a wetsuit, and the visibility can be extraordinary if you go from August to November.
If you’re looking for adventure, Capurgana, lost in the Darien region, is an excellent base from which to explore this vast ecosystem with its lush vegetation bordering Panama.
Trigana, 45 minutes by boat south of Capurgana, is a great entry point to the Darien jungle. Personally, I think nature seems even wilder here, and you can observe animals like howler monkeys, toucans, and sloths.
The calm waters of the mangroves are perfect for witnessing this curious phenomenon you might have heard about.
Hotels in the San Bernardo archipelago or Rincón del Mar organize this nighttime activity.
Equipped with your mask and snorkel, swim among countless microorganisms that produce light in the moving dark water. The experience is exhilarating. This phenomenon is most visible on nights with little or no moon.
Mangroves represent a wonderful ecosystem, home to many species of birds and fishes.
Isla Tintipan is largely covered by a vast swamp crisscrossed by canals that you can explore by kayak.
You can also cross part of the mangrove from the end of the long beach in Rincón del Mar before emerging into the dry tropical forest. I loved my morning exploration with a guide from the local association dedicated to its restoration.
Finally, San Bernardo del Viento in the Córdoba department has a beautiful mangrove at the mouth of the Rio Sinú, which flows into the Caribbean Sea.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY
The best hotels on the West Caribbean Coast.
Even though the Caribbean West Coast has fewer hotel options than the east coast, there are still some wonderful choices if you’re looking for a bit of luxury.
Punta Faro, located in a magical spot on Isla Mucura, offers a romantic and luxurious stay for those wishing to celebrate a special event with a loved one or simply enjoy a paradise setting.
You will also find beautiful establishments along the coast near Tolú, a small seaside town 2.5 hours north of Monteria, especially around Playa del Francés.
If you enjoy a soothing atmosphere and an eco-friendly ethos, Dos Aguas in Rincón del Mar is a paradise that blends comfort and harmony with nature.
To fully disconnect, stay at the ecolodge in the Sangaré Nature Reserve south of Rincón del Mar, a serene and welcoming spot surrounded by vegetation, with just a few rooms.
On the beautiful Isla Fuerte, Hostel La Playita provides a convivial atmosphere perfect for mingling with other travelers.
For more comfort and peace, still on Isla Fuerte, opt for Isla Fuerte Eco House with its beautiful greenery and delicious meals.
If you’re seeking an exotic and somewhat unique experience, how about sleeping amidst the turquoise waters of the Caribbean?
Casa en El Agua is a hostel built on a tiny dead coral reef, just a short paddle from Isla Tintipan in the San Bernardo archipelago. The vibe is festive and popular among flashpackers, particularly those who speak English.
For those who dream of sleeping with the sound of waves, the Caribbean West Coast offers accommodations that are often simple but set in fantastic surroundings.
One such place is Hotel Puntanorte, nestled in an incredible location at the northern tip of Isla Tintipan. With its charming huts and excellent cuisine, I love it. Anothe fantastic option is Punta Faro.
Playa Soledad, south of Capurgana near the municipality of Acandí, also offers comfortable accommodations far from everything.
And how about finding yourself alone on the private island of Ati, a friendly Kuna from the San Blas islands? In the evening, you would dine on lobsters cooked over a wood fire by his son Alex, who would care for you throughout your stay.
© Tomplanmytrip
TransportATION
Getting around on the West Caribbean coast.
Boats are a common mode of transport here. They allow you to reach islands like the San Bernardo archipelago or Isla Fuerte, but are also frequently used to access coastal towns without road connections, such as Capurgana or Sapzurro.
Depending on the destination, boat connections can be regular (Turbo – Capurgana and Necoclí – Capurgana) or informal, such as between Rincón del Mar and the San Bernardo archipelago. You just need to arrange with your hotel, a local fisherman, or join a day excursion.
If you don’t have sea legs, remember that during the windy season, from November to April, trips can be very bumpy.
Regular bus lines connect major Colombian cities like Medellín with towns on the Caribbean west coast.
Vans also provide city-to-city connections or airport transfers, such as between Monteria airport and Necoclí (and vice versa).
Monteria hosts the largest airport on the Caribbean west coast, making it a key destination for exploring the region. Weekly flights connect Monteria with Bogotá and Medellín (via Avianca, Clicair, and Latam).
Tolú features a small commercial airport with an internal route to Medellín.
Several other municipalities have small regional airports: Apartadó, Acandí (with a connection to Medellín by Satena), and Capurgana.
For group travel to Capurgana, consider taking a direct charter flight with Pacifica Travel from Medellín.
It’s common to use shared taxis on the Caribbean west coast. This helps reduce costs, but there won’t be much room for your luggage. These are often old, beaten-up cars.
In the cities, you can take regular taxis. Since there are no meters, it’s best to ask for the fare before getting in.
The tuk-tuk is a common mode of transport in Capurgana. You’ll find them on the main street.
If you want to avoid last-minute surprises, private transport is the best way to get around quickly on the Caribbean coast.
© Tomplanmytrip
ADVICE
Additional tips to prepare for your adventure on the Caribbean West Coast.
Many destinations on the Caribbean west coast do not have ATMs, including Capurgana, Rincón del Mar, and the San Bernardo islands. It’s essential to carry enough cash, preferably in small denominations. Credit card payments aren’t always possible due to power outages and unreliable or nonexistent internet connections.
The climate on the West Coast is a haven for mosquitoes, especially during the rainy season, so remember to bring insect repellent.
Don’t forget your mask and snorkel if you want to enjoy the coral reefs.
Remote locations often mean power outages and little to no Wi-Fi. Bring an external battery to recharge your phone and camera.
Unexpected transportation issues, such as strikes or roadblocks, are not rare. Be patient and allow extra time in your schedule.
The water is not drinkable; only consume bottled water with sealed caps.
Many destinations on the Caribbean’s west coast, including Isla Fuerte, Rincón del Mar, and the San Bernardo islands, can experience water supply issues.
If you plan to explore, I recommend downloading the Maps.Me App—it’s better than Google Maps. Also, remember to download the maps to your phone, as you won’t always have a network.
© Tomplanmytrip
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