Colombian Travel Guide
Capurgana & Sapzurro
Colombia
Capurgana & Sapzurro are two tiny villages on the western Caribbean coast, located at the border with Panama. These small paradises, isolated in the Darien jungle, are accessible only by boat or plane. The atmosphere is peaceful, and time seems to stand still. It’s the perfect place to enjoy beautiful beaches, hike, and explore the underwater world.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT CAPURGANA AND SAPZURRO
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
Welcome to the Caribbean Choco, a blend of the Caribbean and the Pacific.
Capurgana and Sapzurro are located in the Caribbean Choco (the small part of the Choco department on the Caribbean coast), in the heart of the Darien jungle, on the border with Panama.
Far from Colombia’s major cities, these coastal villages are 1.5 hours by boat from Turbo and Necocli, or a 1-hour charter flight from Medellin.
Like the Pacific coast, the population is predominantly Afro-Colombian.
This part of Colombia was long inhabited by the indigenous Kuna people, but in the 20th century, they were driven out by Afro-Colombian populations who migrated from Santa Marta and Cartagena.
Neglected by the rest of the world until the 1970s, it became a holiday spot for the Paisas (residents of Antioquia).
Following a turbulent period in the 2000s (conflicts between guerrillas and paramilitaries), tourism has picked up again since 2007, though it is still mainly local.
Thanks to its location, the Caribbean Choco is a fascinating destination for travelers looking to combine jungle trekking, idyllic beaches, and turquoise waters.
Stay in Trigana and San Francisco if you’re drawn to the jungle side, choose Capurgana if you’re curious about experiencing the daily life of the Choco inhabitants (note, it’s quite an adjustment) or diving, and opt for Sapzurro for a few days of relaxation in a calm and beautiful place, with little to do except enjoy the stunning beaches.
Off the beaten path and rather difficult to access, it’s the favorite choice of adventurous travelers who want to discover a Caribbean coast away from tourists.
Capurgana and Sapzuro are hot and humid throughout the year, with an average temperature of 28°C.
Between December and April, the trade winds bring milder weather and almost no rain. On the flip side, the sea gets rough, boat trips become challenging, and leaving the port is sometimes impossible. The winds also make diving difficult (visibility is poor), and the turquoise water loses its appeal.
The rainy season begins in May and continues until November. The sea calms down during this period, and swimming becomes enjoyable again. Diving conditions are especially good from August to November.
Local tourists flock to Capurgana and the surrounding areas during the high season. Although the vibe can be enjoyable, the noise level is quite staggering and takes away much of the place’s charm.
To avoid the crowds, avoid visiting from the end of December to mid-January, during Easter week, and during the four-day Capurgana Festival (Festival de la Cigua) in October.
I prefer the period from August to November. The rainy season has never been an issue for me (it never rains all day long), and the water is stunning.
Given the multiple “atmospheres” in this area, I advise a 5 to 7-day visit. This will let you stay in 2 different places and switch between relaxation and activities.
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THINGS TO DO IN CAPURGANA
The bustling village of the Caribbean Choco.
Travelers come to Capurgana mainly for its seaside atmosphere. There are several beaches to discover:
I find the village beach quite nice (when it’s not too crowded), and there’s always a good vibe—small kiosks with music selling cocktails. If you want more privacy, continue along the path towards La Coquerita for about a hundred meters, and you’ll find other small swimming spots.
Otherwise, you can go to El Aguacate Beach, a 1 hour and 15-minute walk from Capurgana along a pleasant coastal path. There’s only a small sandy beach at El Aguacate, but there’s a large grassy area with palm trees, which is even more enjoyable. It’s a popular spot for snorkeling, with beautiful corals near the shore. I also recommend having lunch at Salitre & Selva and drinking spiced rum on the impressive terrace of Doble Vista. If you don’t like walking, you can get there by boat (15 minutes) from Capurgana.
Playa de Soledad, a 30-minute boat ride from Capurganá, is a natural paradise with mangroves and a white sand beach. It’s perfect for sunbathing and snorkeling, thanks to its crystal-clear waters and rich marine life, including rays and corals.
Playa Soledad is privately owned, but access to the beach is free.
A nice day out involves taking a boat to Playa Soledad from Capurganá, having lunch there, then walking back to Capurganá (4 hours)—stopping at Playa Aguacate for some snorkeling on the way. It’s best to hire a local guide to organize this excursion.
Capurganá is one of Colombia’s top diving destinations. With more than 30 dive sites, there’s something for divers of all levels. Wall dives, from 5 to 36 meters, are perfect for certified divers, while beginners can explore shallow areas under controlled conditions. The marine life is quite pleasant, though affected by intensive fishing: lobsters, turtles, nurse sharks, angelfish, and beautiful corals.
Diving and snorkeling equipment is available for rent, and excursions are organized. I recommend Dive&Green, which is PADI certified. You can also complete all your certifications there.
The best period for diving is from May to November, when visibility is at its best. And with an average water temperature of 29°C, there’s nothing to complain about!
Similar to Taganga, the prices are very affordable compared to other destinations.
The hike to La Coquerita from Capurganá takes around 45 minutes for 2 km. The path is mostly flat, but the rocks can be slippery, so wearing hiking shoes is advised. The trail runs along the Caribbean Sea on one side and the jungle on the other, providing a beautiful contrast of scenery.
La Coquerita has a saltwater pool with small fish that nibble your feet and five freshwater pools. There is an entry fee.
It’s a great place to relax for 1 or 2 hours, enjoying patacones and a refreshing lemonade in the shade of the palm trees. I recommend going in the morning to enjoy the sun.
Thanks to Juan Carlos (owner of Los Alemendros), you can go spearfishing from August to November. He will provide you with a mask (though it’s always better to have your own for a perfect fit), fins, and a homemade spear gun—perfect for catching lionfish.
For this experience, it’s best to have good breath-holding skills and stamina to keep up with Juan Carlos. If you get tired, you can observe the beautiful coral reefs or choose to rest on the boat or the beach.
Afterward, you’ll head to a beautiful white sand beach to build a wood fire, and Juan Carlos will prepare a delicious feast with the fish he has caught—or maybe you?
The day lasts 6 hours, including 3-4 hours of snorkeling/spearfishing. I really enjoyed this experience and highly recommend it.
© Tomplanmytrip
THINGS TO DO IN SAPZURRO
A peaceful village in Caribbean Choco paradise.
Sapzurro, 10 minutes by boat from Capurganá or a 1.5-hour walk, is a peaceful and picturesque village with a large bay that shelters a few sailboats (including 2 shipwrecks).
The main beach in Sapzurro is perfect for relaxing, with its calm, wave-free waters. You can swim, play football with the local kids, enjoy homemade ice cream from a lovely grandma named Chila, or simply relax with a cocktail. I particularly love the beach nicknamed Playa Bonita.
Nearby (a 20-minute walk), Cabo Tiburón Beach is perfect for snorkeling (when the sea is calm), with its clear waters and coral reefs. The path to get there follows the coast and cuts through the jungle, offering stunning scenery. There’s also a small bar for a refreshing beer.
Sapzurro is less crowded and closer to nature than Capurganá, with no tuk-tuks or motorcycles. Although the prices are a bit higher, it’s worth staying more than a day to enjoy its unique and romantic atmosphere.
In fact, many travelers leave Capurganá as soon as they arrive to head straight to Sapzurro.
La Miel Beach in Panama is accessible after a climb of 300 steps from the village of Sapzurro—a journey of about 20 minutes. At the top, you’ll have a stunning view of the bay and pass through a border post where you’ll need to register your full name and passport number. The border officially closes at 6 PM.
Descending, you’ll discover a gorgeous white sand beach lined with palm trees and a sea of infinite shades of blue. To avoid crowds, it’s best to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon, especially during school holidays and weekends.
Small restaurants offer lunches, but the service is very slow, so it’s advisable to inform them in the morning when you want to eat. Payment is cash only.
It’s also possible to get there by boat from Sapzurro. Along with Playa Soledad, these are the most beautiful white sand beaches in the area.
The hike between Capurganá and Sapzurro is a lovely 1.5—to 2-hour walk over 3.5 km. It offers an excellent way to enjoy the area’s biodiversity while taking in breathtaking views. The trail is moderately challenging, with some muddy sections if it has rained recently.
The trail crosses the tropical forest and includes both an ascent and a descent—you need to get to the other side of the mountain. Wooden steps help with the steeper sections. I’ve spotted howler monkeys and huge, fluorescent black and yellow spiders.
If you plan to stay a few nights in Sapzurro and Capurganá, don’t forget to leave some belongings at your hostel in Capurganá. This will make your hike lighter.
At the summit, there’s an impressive viewpoint over the bays of Capurganá and Sapzurro. There’s also a “checkpoint” where you pay a few euros to pass as they maintain the trail.
The San Blas Islands in Panama consist of 365 small islands, of which only 80 are inhabited by the indigenous Kuna Yala people. These islands are famous for their white sand beaches and crystal-clear waters, which are rich in biodiversity. The Kuna, fishermen and hunters, are welcoming and protective of their traditions.
There are two options to get there from Capurgana:
- A round trip between Capurganá and the first islands, like Caledonia.
- A four-day journey (sleeping on a different island each night) ending in Panama City—with San Blas Adventure.
For the first option:
Ati is a friendly Kuna who offers his private island to tourists (pretty cool, right?). There, you can enjoy the beaches, go snorkeling (where I saw the most beautiful corals and even sharks!), visit the Kuna community in the village of Caledonia, and taste wood-fired lobsters. His son, Alex, will be your guide for the entire stay. The infrastructure is simple, but the unique experience is well worth it. Who wouldn’t love to be alone on a paradisiacal island, knowing that there’s food and drink available?
Choose days when the San Blas Adventure excursions are not scheduled to avoid crowds.
Since you have to go through the border post, it takes 4 to 5 hours to get to Caledonia. Therefore, it’s best to stay for 3 nights.
Armila, located 4 km north of Puerto Obaldia, is a small indigenous Kuna Yala village in Panama, accessible by a 1.5-hour walk along the sea or a 20-minute boat ride.
In May, Armila celebrates a “Marine Turtle Festival“, attracting tourists and scientists. During this time, you can observe leatherback and green turtles laying their eggs and watch the baby turtles make their way to the sea.
Armila is a village with very rudimentary houses, where no one speaks French or English, and you must have your passport stamped at the Panamanian border to get there.
© Tomplanmytrip
Things to do in Trigana
The forgotten town of the Caribbean Choco.
Trigana is a small village of fishermen and farmers located 45 minutes by boat from Capurgana.
The village has no roads or cars, just paths for horses, bikes, and pedestrians. The bay of Trigana offers beautiful brown sand beaches shaded by palm trees.
Here, there is much less human activity.
The forest is full of animals such as howler monkeys, sloths, toucans, and many species of (venomous) snakes and frogs.
I found this destination interesting because it offers a jungle and wild-nature atmosphere that is not as prevalent in Capurgana or Sapzurro. It’s the perfect place to disconnect from the modern world and enjoy nature. You can observe the flora and fauna more easily, swim in the rivers, or simply relax.
San Francisco, a slightly more developed village than Trigana, is a 40-minute walk to the south.
The hike to the giant trees in the Bembé Reserve is a must-do adventure in Trigana. First, you need to walk 40 minutes along the beach to reach San Francisco. Once there, be sure to stop for a good breakfast—I loved the pastries at Milenkantos.
From San Francisco, the trail heads into the jungle, home to many capuchin monkeys, colorful venomous frogs, and macaws. If you walk at a good pace, it will take you about an hour to reach the giant trees of the reserve, which resemble African baobabs, some of which reach over 60 meters high with trunks five meters in diameter.
The trail is not marked, so it’s best to be accompanied by a local guide. This also allows you to combine this walk with a visit to the Piscina de los Reyes, a pool where you can swim, run by a lovely family.
Plan on 8 hours from Trigana. It’s better to start early to avoid the heat.
The Sasardí Nature Reserve spans 60 hectares of primary forest and regenerating lands. Established by the Darién Foundation, it promotes conservation and sustainable development.
A loop trail from Trigana reaches the reserve after a 1-hour walk, leading to a breathtaking view over the vast Darién jungle bordered by the blue Caribbean Sea.
You can then descend to Finca Napu for a refreshing lemonade and follow the coastline back to Trigana. It’s advisable to have a local guide with you.
The hike lasts about 4 to 5 hours.
Playona is a small village without electricity, located near Acandí, between Trigana (30 minutes by boat) and Capurganá. Playona is famous for its long beach, where the world’s largest sea turtles, called Tortugas Cana (leatherback turtles), come to lay their eggs—like in Armila. These turtles can measure over 2 meters and weigh 700 kg.
Nesting occurs mainly at night, from February to June. The eggs incubate for about 60 days. From April to August, you can see the baby turtles emerging from the nests and heading to the sea. The best time to visit is May to June, when you can witness both the adult turtles laying their eggs and the baby turtles hatching.
To visit Playona, follow local guidelines: use red lights, stay silent, and keep a distance of 3 meters from the turtles to avoid disturbing them.
© Tomplanmytrip
Where to stay in Capurgana
The best hotels in the area.
Choose Capurgana if you’re looking for budget accommodation and/or want to organize day trips (Capurgana is central) easily.
You’ll find it easier to shop, find a few bars to have cocktails in the evening, and meet other travelers.
Capurgana can be quite a noisy village (the locals love to blast music), so I recommend finding a hotel a bit away from the center—however, note that there is little public lighting.
I recommend the following hotels:
- Los Alemendros: An economical option a bit off the beaten path, run by a French-Colombian couple.
- Los Robles: A large house with several rooms on a beautiful property, run by a friendly German. It’s a 10-minute walk from Capurgana.
- Portal del Sol: Best value for money, and they have a generator. Located in the village but away from the center, so it’s quiet.
- Casa Galú: For an upscale stay, with cabins surrounded by vegetation and just a few meters from the beach. No neighbors and a 5-minute walk from Capurgana.
Accommodations in Sapzurro are more expensive, and the selection is limited. Come here if you plan to spend your days lounging on the beach with your partner or a good book.
The accommodations are relatively modest, and some aren’t listed on booking platforms—you can find them on Google Maps.
I spent two nights at Paraiso Cangrejales. The rooms are decent, and the owner is an excellent cook—I recommend opting for full board since the restaurants in Sapzurro aren’t great.
Another option is Casa La Mariela if you’re looking for something a bit more modern and with a generator in case of power outages (which is a big plus, trust me).
I also like Cafe del Mar because it’s located on the beach and Sandra cooks deliciously. However, it’s the most expensive option on my list.
El Aguacate is a small cluster of about fifteen houses scattered along the seafront, nestled among palm trees. It’s the quietest and most peaceful area in this guide to the Caribbean Choco.
Interestingly, you’ll find excellent hotels here:
- The newcomer is Casa Wago. Adrien and I visited it just as it was opening. Max, the owner, put all his love into creating a pleasant place with a dormitory and private rooms, and a delicious restaurant. Plus, they have a generator!
- Casa Alma is a similar and slightly cheaper option. However, the generator only runs for a few hours daily in case of a power outage.
In Trigana (and San Francisco), things get more challenging. The area is so isolated that the success of a good hotel relies heavily on the services offered and the host’s quality.
Here, I can only recommend Hostel Treegana. It’s located 15 minutes from the beach (there’s a tuk-tuk to help carry your bags) in a lush jungle, with monkeys that come to steal bananas every morning. The accommodation is modest, but the beautiful setting (and the pool) more than make up for it.
And, if you’re lucky, you’ll be in the company of the wonderful owners, a charming French-Colombian couple who know the area well and sell artisanal rum and homemade charcuterie! The hostel also serves delicious meals.
© Tomplanmytrip
EATING AND DRINKING
The best bars and restaurants.
You can eat decently in Capurgana, but it’s quite pricey for the quality (for Colombia). Opting for full board at the hotel (excluding lunch, as you’ll be out on excursions) is a good way to eat well and save money.
Otherwise, look for good deals in town. If you’re feeling peckish, I recommend the Palitos de Queso with guava jam, sold on the main street. I also enjoy having an arepa at Amparo’s place (Capurgarepa).
Another option is a good pizza: El Gecko or Tres Soles.
For lunch, choose a Menu del día at Donde Pelayo.
For a delicious fresh seafood dish, try Josefina, a seaside restaurant. But you need to book in advance, and the prices are high.
The locals and Colombians enjoy partying in Capurgana, but I’m not sure it’s your style. The parties typically involve sitting around a massive speaker with the volume cranked up all night, shouting to communicate, and drinking bottles of rum.
There are two bars I like because they are elevated with pleasant terraces: Macondo Bar and Rooftop 180—though I’ve never been able to figure out Rooftop 180‘s opening hours.
I also like to visit the main beach for a cocoloco—a cocktail served in a coconut.
Pick your hotel wisely, as it’s where you’ll be dining and drinking most of the time. If you plan ahead, you can have a delicious vegetarian meal at Salitre & Selva—ask your accommodation for Maia’s contact info.
For a drink and to meet other travelers, head to the wonderful terrace at Doble Vista with its tasty spiced rums—beware, there’s quite a hill to climb to get there. 😉
© Tomplanmytrip
How to get to capurgana
And getting around.
You can reach Capurgana by boat from Turbo (2 hours) or Necocli (1.5 hours). In low season, boats leave between 8 and 9 AM, with just one (or sometimes two) departures. In high season, boat companies add extra morning departures.
These boats have powerful engines and go full speed. During the windy season (December-April), the ride will be bumpy and “wet.” Don’t forget to put your belongings in plastic bags.
Your main bag will go in the hold. Keep the number they give you to retrieve it later.
You can travel to Necocli from Monteria or Medellin, and to Turbo, you can arrive from Apartado or Medellin.
Try to book your tickets the day before to ensure availability—use WhatsApp.
Charter flights are organized by Pacifica Travel, directly connecting Medellin to Capurgana (45 minutes). This is by far the most convenient option. Departures don’t occur every day of the week.
You can also take a flight from Medellin to Acandi with Satena, followed by a 30-minute boat ride to Capurgana.
You first need to get to Capurgana. Then, you have two options:
- Take a 15-minute boat ride. It’s easy to find captains to go to Sapzurro, but they’ll wait until several people are on board before departing. Once in Sapzurro, it’s more challenging to return by boat. It’s best to get the phone number of a local boat captain.
- You can hike 1.5 to 2 hours from Capurgana to Sapzurro.
When purchasing your tickets, you must inform the ticket office. The boat will drop you off directly at Trigana (45 minutes from Capurgana or Necocli, 1 hour from Turbo).
However, leaving Trigana is more complicated since there is no transport office. You need to notify a restaurant on the beach to contact the ticket offices. The organization is often chaotic, and they might forget you (which happened to us). The best approach is to pick the first time slot so you have a backup plan if they forget.
The center of Capurgana consists of a few small streets, making it easy to get around on foot.
However, many accommodations are situated outside the village, towards Playa del Aguacate (about a 15-minute walk from the center), and you might sometimes feel too lazy to walk. You can use tuk-tuk services for these trips. They are available on the main street.
© Tomplanmytrip
Safety in capurgana
The situation in the Darien jungle is sensitive. However, it is very safe for tourists.
Capurgana is home to both a military base and paramilitary groups. They seem to coexist, likely due to a good dose of corruption.
The Darien Jungle is a key area for smuggling immigrants and drugs to the United States.
It’s unsettling, I know. But that’s why it’s so safe.
These “operations” are so profitable that the paramilitaries avoid drawing attention (you can’t tell who they are). They tolerate no crime—offenders are expelled from Capurgana. They want tourists to enjoy their stay without worry.
In short, though it may seem paradoxical, Capurgana is far safer than major Colombian cities. I lived there for a year without any trouble.
Many illegal migrants from around the world cross the Darien Jungle to reach Panama, where they then take buses to the United States.
To do this, they first fly to Venezuela, then travel to Necocli or Turbo, where many wait to catch a boat.
It’s heartbreaking to see what some people are willing to endure to leave their country and try their luck elsewhere.
Migrants usually don’t take the same paths as tourists and stop in Acandi. But on my last visit, I saw a group of 40 people leaving Capurgana for the jungle in the middle of the night.
I’ve never seen them in Trigana or Sapzurro, which are not on the “route.”
There is a highly venomous snake in the Darien Jungle (especially around Trigana and San Francisco) called the Mapana.
Caution is advised when walking in the forest, and rubber boots are best if you decide to explore the Trigana jungle.
© Tomplanmytrip
advice
To make the most of Capurgana and its surroundings.
There are no ATMs in Capurgana (nor Trigana and Sapzurro), and it’s not easy to pay by credit card. The simplest solution is to bring as much cash as you need.
Depending on the time of year (rainy season), there are mosquitoes and sandflies—but it’s manageable. I recommend bringing insect repellent.
Also, consider bringing a portable battery in case of power outages.
If you’re visiting during the calm sea months, I suggest bringing your own mask and snorkel—you’ll have a great time.
Remember that the area has fantastic hikes, so bring your hiking shoes and trekking clothes.
Lastly, you might get wet (from boat rides or rain). A small waterproof bag is always useful in this type of destination.
Google Maps isn’t very useful in the Caribbean Choco. I suggest downloading Maps.me and having offline maps on your phone.
Capurganá has changed a lot, and not always for the better. It used to be a quiet village without internet or cars, with electricity available only eight hours a day.
Today, local tourism has increased significantly. However, this rapid growth has led to serious environmental problems: poor waste management, overconsumption of water, pollution, and deforestation around the village. The massive influx of tourists and migrants has altered the authenticity and tranquility of Capurganá, endangering its natural beauty and fragile ecosystem.
So, don’t hesitate to visit Sapzurro, Aguacate, or Trigana—depending on what kind of stay you’re looking for.
There are a few habits to keep in mind in such remote areas.
Energy management is terrible, leading to regular power outages. I suggest choosing a hotel with a generator to ensure you can sleep well at night with a working fan.
Unexpected transportation issues are also frequent. There might be blockades by locals or paramilitaries, or the sea could be too rough for boats. So, it’s best not to stay in Capurgana right before your international flight.
Waste management isn’t the main priority for locals, although this is slowly changing.
Some hotels now have good internet access thanks to Starlink—in case you need to work online. However, this is not common, so check in advance.
Regarding phone coverage, Claro works well in Capurgana and Movistar in Sapzurro.
Sometimes, there is simply no phone coverage at all.
© Tomplanmytrip
itineraries
How to include Capurgana, Trigana, and Sapzurro on your trip to Colombia.
From Medellin, you can reach Capurgana (bus+boat or plane+boat) and then go directly to Sapzurro.
From there, take a 4-day excursion to the San Blas Islands before returning to Sapzurro for 1 night.
The next day, return to Capurgana to take the boat, then a van from Necocli to Monteria, and finally a bus from Monteria to Cartagena—a full day of travel.
From Bogota, fly to Apartado and spend the night there. The next day, take the boat from Turbo to stay in Trigana for 2 nights.
Then, take another boat to El Aguacate (some companies can drop you off directly without passing through Capurgana). Enjoy a 3-night stay before taking your flight to Medellin from Capurgana (1 or 2 departures weekly).
From Cartagena, take a bus to Monteria and then a van to Necocli and spend the night there.
The next day, take a boat to Capurgana and spend 2 nights in Sapzurro. Then, spend 2 nights in Capurgana before returning to Necocli to catch a bus to Medellin or head to Monteria.
© Tomplanmytrip
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