Colombia Travel Guide
Cartagena de Indias
Colombia
Cartagena is renowned for its stunning historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage site. With its splendid hotels, delicious restaurants, and luxurious shops, this vibrant city is highly sought after by tourists worldwide. It’s the starting point for the idyllic Rosario Islands.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT CARTAGENA DE INDIAS
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
The most captivating colonial city in Colombia.
Cartagena de Indias is Colombia’s fifth-largest city (with 1 million inhabitants), located on the Caribbean east coast. Known for its rich colonial past, it is the capital of the Bolivar Department and one of the country’s main ports.
The city is 2 hours from Barranquilla, 4 hours from Santa Marta, 5.5 hours from Tayrona, and 1 hour (by boat) from the Rosario Islands.
Founded in 1533 during the Conquest, Cartagena de Indias was a bastion of the Kingdom of Spain for nearly three centuries, playing a key political and economic role in the expansion of the Spanish Empire in South America. By 1550, it had become a strategic port on the main maritime routes of the globe, especially on the West Indies route. It was also a major slave port.
Its prosperity quickly attracted the attention of other colonial powers and pirates, from other colonial powers to pirates like the famous Francis Drake, leading to numerous battles. Cartagena de Indias boasts one of the most comprehensive systems of military fortifications on the South American continent.
In the early 19th century, Cartagena played a major role in Colombia’s independence, where Simon Bolivar was a prominent figure.
The historic center and fortress of Cartagena de Indias have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1984.
People come to Cartagena de Indias to lose themselves in its historic center’s vibrant and colorful streets, with its delightfully romantic atmosphere and stunning colonial buildings, to explore its history and culture, to stroll through the streets adorned with stunning graffiti in the Getsemaní neighborhood, and to experience the authentic and thrilling nightlife.
Visiting Cartagena also includes taking a boat trip to enjoy the idyllic beaches of the Rosario Islands.
Year-round, Cartagena remains hot and humid (average daytime temperature of 28°C, seldom falling below 24°C).
The sunniest months are from December to mid-April, while the rainiest months last from September to November. Consecutive rainy days are rare, and showers are generally brief, more frequent at the end of the day.
I recommend avoiding the high season when tourist crowds and prices peak: from December 20th to January 15th, Holy Week, school holidays, and public holidays (which are numerous in Colombia).
Cool events to know about:
- Independence Day: Early November combines parades, dance performances, and neighborhood festivities.
- The Hay Festival: In January, Cartagena hosts this global cultural festival celebrating literature, arts, and journalism.
- Cartagena International Film Festival: The oldest film festival in Latin America, held in March.
- Christmas and New Year: Many upscale restaurants organize holiday meals, and there’s also a spectacular fireworks display.
Regarding boat trips, they will be rougher from December to April due to the waves.
The tourist sites in Cartagena are easily reachable and not very numerous. If you’re pressed for time, you can cover them all in one or two days if you prefer a more leisurely pace.
Personally, I enjoy staying for three nights because it allows me to include an excursion outside the city.
If you plan to stay on the Rosario Islands, it’s best to plan a total stay of four or five nights to make the most of both locations.
© Tomplanmytrip
THINGS TO DO IN CARTAGENA
A place steeped in history, a rich culinary culture, and the laid-back charm of the Caribbean.
The grand walls of Cartagena shelter a jewel of colonial architecture. To make the most of the “El Centro,” start your tour early, around 7 AM, to avoid the heat and the crowds.
Roam the streets with richly adorned mansions and hotels, and enjoy spotting the knockers on the heavy doors. Cross Plaza de la Aduana and head to the Santuario de San Pedro Claver to admire the cathedral. Be sure to stroll along the ramparts for an amazing view.
Next, move to the San Diego neighborhood, which is less abundant in colonial edifices but full of charm. Its houses feature colorful, flowered wooden balconies. Discover the Iglesia Santo Toribio and visit Fernández Madrid Park and Plaza de San Diego.
Exit the historic center through the Puerta del Reloj and explore Getsemaní, a neighborhood formerly inhabited by artisans and freed slaves, now beloved by artists and musicians. Walk through graffiti-filled streets, ascend Calle de los Sombrillas under colorful umbrellas, and grab delicious fruits from a street vendor. Take a photo with Gabo thanks to a trompe-l’oeil at the corner of a street.
If you are intrigued by Cartagena’s history, I recommend booking a private tour with an English-speaking guide who will take you to the main sites. There are also several Free Walking Tours.
To round out your city tour, visit the Naval Museum, which is very well-documented in Cartagena’s history, and the Gold Museum, which displays beautifully crafted gold objects made by the indigenous tribes who lived there before the Spanish arrived.
If you’re interested in defensive architecture, visit El Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, a massive 17th-century fortress and South America’s largest Spanish colonial fortification. You’ll understand why the British retreated during the famous Siege of Cartagena de Indias in 1741.
For fortification fans, on Tierra Bomba Island, just a 15-minute boat ride from Cartagena, the magnificent remains of San Fernando de Bocachica, an 18th-century fort, and the Batería del Ángel San Rafael, showcase the ingenuity of maritime architects of the time in defending access to Cartagena.
I love exploring a place through its gastronomy, particularly its street food, which reveals much about its culture. In Cartagena, the street food is astonishing. You must try the arepas de huevo (stuffed with beef and eggs). If you’re up for it, a street food tour will let you discover the best tastes of the city.
If you’re a cooking enthusiast, you can participate in cooking classes with a friendly chef who will guide you in preparing and tasting traditional dishes after taking you to the vibrant Bazurto Market to choose ingredients.
If you are into coffee, go for a tasting at San Alberto in the Centro or Café del Mural in Getsemaní and choose your preferred preparation method. You might also want to explore the history of Colombian rums and chocolate at Lunático or El Arsenal.
Overall, there are plenty of things to do in Cartagena to satisfy our taste buds.
Take my advice: don’t be like many tourists who lounge on the beaches of Bocagrande and Laguito, the modern districts of Cartagena. Sure, it’s the easiest option when staying in Cartagena, but these beaches are far from the most beautiful.
To enjoy paradise-like beaches, head to the Rosario Islands. Located on Isla Barú, Playa Blanca is the most famous white-sand beach, but it’s VERY crowded. You’ll find more peaceful beaches on Isla Grande or south of Isla Barú.
Cartagena is the quintessential romantic city—Aleja, my wife, always raves about it.
So, go all out (and get your credit card ready) to book a room in a cozy boutique hotel, rent a boat for an adventure to the Rosario Islands and have lunch with your feet in the sand, then walk along the walls at sunset, order a cocktail with unfamiliar fruits, and dine in a gourmet restaurant by candlelight.
The memory will be etched in your minds forever 😉
© Tomplanmytrip
CARTAGENA DAY TRIPS
The best excursions to discover Cartagena’s stunning surroundings.
The Rosario Islands archipelago is a set of paradisiacal coral islands about 20 kilometers from Cartagena de Indias, a one—hour boat ride.
Among the most well-known is Isla Barú, the largest and most accessible. It’s famous for its magnificent white sand beach, Playa Blanca. However, it’s often too crowded for my taste, so I prefer the quieter beaches in the southern part of the island. The island also hosts a beautiful aviary.
Isla Grande is my favorite island because of its idyllic and peaceful natural setting. Pleasant trails lead to lovely small beaches and mesmerizing turquoise waters.
If you want to experience how Colombians party, head to Isla Cholón. You’ll dance to blasting reggaeton while sipping cocktails in waist-deep clear water.
Renting a private boat from Cartagena to explore the Rosario Islands is an unforgettable experience. You decide on your itinerary in a relaxed or festive atmosphere.
You can also opt for a group tour departing from Cartagena or enjoy a day package to relax on the private beach of a hotel on one of the archipelago’s islands. I particularly enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere of Islabela on Isleta, close to Isla Grande.
Escape the hustle and bustle of Cartagena by booking a tour to La Boquilla, a peaceful fishing village just 20 minutes from the walled city that offers a glimpse of local life.
You’ll explore the mangrove in a traditional canoe, observe birds, and learn how to crab fish. Then you’ll be invited to have lunch with a local family who’ll cook your catch of the day over an open fire—always delicious!
San Basilio de Palenque, classified as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO, is the first free town in the Americas. San Basilio has preserved its African roots through dance, music, medicinal practices, and food. Its inhabitants speak Palenquero, a unique Spanish Creole language. In October, a four-day annual music festival celebrates the unique culture of the Palenqueros.
You can get there by bus on your own (about 2 hours) and find a local guide upon arrival, but I recommend going through an agency from Cartagena—it’s much easier and more interesting.
Nature lovers can find their paradise around Cartagena. Exploring the mangrove in La Boquilla offers a great glimpse of this ecosystem, which is home to many birds.
For bird watchers, the National Aviary on Isla Barú is a beautiful reserve that rescues birds from illegal trafficking.
Day tours in the dry tropical forest surrounding Cartagena allow you to spot monkeys, including the white-crested tamarin and the howler monkey. You might also see some curious little ones who have settled in the city if you look up while crossing Parque del Centenario on your way back from Getsemaní.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY IN CARTAGENA
Cartagena’s best hotels and the vibe of each neighborhood.
Are you looking for a romantic atmosphere or visiting Cartagena for the first time?
El Centro is fantastic with its beautiful colonial buildings converted into luxury hotels and its streets with colorful balconies. However, the area can be noisy and packed with tourists, and it’s quite pricey.
My top picks are Casa San Agustin, a magnificent and luxurious colonial property; Quadrifolio, a luxurious colonial hotel beautifully restored and with spacious rooms; Amarla Boutique, a splendid boutique hotel; and Casa Claver, with its lofts. All offer stunning city views from their rooftops. For a more budget-friendly option, I like Hotel Las Carretas or the Casa Movida hostel.
For a quieter stay, you can choose the San Diego neighborhood—next to El Centro.
Two excellent choices are Sofitel Santa Clara (with its fantastic pool) and the pleasant and serene Casa La Fe by Bespoke. It’s my favorite neighborhood in Cartagena.
For a small group, renting a beautiful villa could be the perfect plan!
I enjoy the bohemian and lively vibe of Getsemaní, only 15 minutes walk from the historic center. The atmosphere is more genuine, and the value for money is better than within the walls. It’s a major nightlife spot in Cartagena, so the streets can be noisy, particularly if your hotel is in the heart of the area.
My preferred hotels are Casa Isabel for its decor and delicious breakfasts, Casa Jaguar for its calm and outstanding staff, and Posada La Fe for its modern rooms and excellent value.
Manga is a quieter residential neighborhood with a few old houses converted into hotels and shopping centers.
The area doesn’t have much charm, but it’s close to Getsemaní and is an ideal option for those on a budget.
For example, Casa del Puerto is a friendly hotel, and Marie B&B offers great value for money.
This is the best option if you’re looking for modern apartments and large resorts for a week-long stay with family or friends. The beach access is easy, and the prices are more affordable. However, you’ll be surrounded by high buildings, the beaches are crowded and unpleasant, and it lacks the charm of the historic center.
In the Bocagrande area, you can enjoy fantastic views from the rooms at the Hyatt Regency, which has three pools. San Martin, with its cozy decor, and Oz Hotel Luxury, with its lovely terrace, are two great options at more reasonable prices.
Nearby, the Laguito area offers a quieter alternative to Bocagrande. The beaches are more pleasant, and the view of the Caribbean Sea and the lake is wonderful from the rooms at resorts like the Hilton Cartagena. There are also excellent apartment options like Sotavento Suites or Penthouse in Laguito.
To the north of the city, you’ll find large resorts like Estelar Playa Manzanillo, an all-inclusive hotel with good value for money, and apartment hotels on Manzanillo Beach. The beaches there are a bit nicer and a lot less crowded.
This is the best choice if you want to escape the busy atmosphere of Cartagena, stay in a beautiful eco-lodge, and enjoy a paradisiacal beach. The archipelago is only 1 hour away by boat, and staying a night or two on Isla Barú or Isla Grande allows you to experience the peaceful atmosphere once the day tourists have left.
My favorite hotels include Coralina Island for its romantic vibe and La Fragata for its excellent value on Isleta near Isla Grande. There’s also Las Islas, a luxurious resort in the south of Isla Barú, and the stunning Sofitel Baru Calablanca with its beautiful beach.
If you enjoy the beach club scene, like at Blue Apple Beach, you might choose to stay in Tierra Bomba, where it’s lively during the day and more relaxed in the evening.
Finally, the ultimate option is to wake up in the middle of the ocean by renting a private island—like Isla Rosa or Isla Matamba.
© Tomplanmytrip
GOING OUT IN CARTAGENA
How to have a good time in Cartagena: My favorite bars and clubs.
Tierra Bomba, just 15 minutes by boat from Cartagena, is a good option for a day of sipping cocktails on the beach and lounging by the pool. The setting is less idyllic (forget the postcard scenery with turquoise waters), but these beach clubs offer better value for money than those on the Rosario Islands.
They provide day packages (including transport from Cartagena and meals). My top choices are Blue Apple Beach (the trendiest) and Amare (great prices).
Salsa is a true passion for Colombians, and whether you’re an enthusiast or just curious, I highly recommend experiencing the lively vibe of a salsa bar like La Tertulia, my favorite, or Café Havana and Donde Fidel. I’m sure you won’t be able to resist moving to the beat.
You can also take a few lessons beforehand at Crazy Salsa.
You can’t miss a stunning sunset while sipping a cocktail from one of the many rooftops in the city.
My favorite is the one at Movitch in the historic center; the view is splendid. Casa Lola (romantic) in Getsemaní, Townhouse (trendy) in San Diego, and Mirador Gastro Bar (for the view) in the historic center are also great spots.
In Cartagena, people head out late (around 1 AM) and like to gather at nightclubs like La Jugada in the center. It has a luxurious decor but is expensive and rather pretentious, in my opinion.
I prefer the friendly vibe of Casa Cruxada, also in the historic center, where you can enjoy brunch, lunch, dinner, and continue your evening with live music.
In Getsemaní, check out Tsunami Club, which opened in 2023.
Several bars offer live music concerts, especially on weekends—like Members Only (jazz) or La Tertulia (salsa).
El Baron serves delicious and creative cocktails with a warm atmosphere. Alquimico is the trendiest spot in Cartagena, featuring several floors, a rooftop, great music, and top-notch cocktails. Both are in the historic center.
You can also enjoy fantastic cocktails in the stunning settings of the two bars at the luxurious Sofitel Santa Clara, El Coro Lounge Bar and Botika Santa Clara Bar.
© Tomplanmytrip
eating in cartagena
Cartagena’s best restaurants and cafés.
Alma in the historic center is one of the best restaurants in Cartagena. Its cuisine is delicious, served in a cozy chic ambiance with dim lighting.
Also in the Centro, La Picua is a charming restaurant specializing in Caribbean seafood dishes. The owner does the service, and the prices are very reasonable.
For a quirky cabaret vibe, Ana Restaurante Bar serves good dishes in a beautiful setting with great music.
In the Manga neighborhood, at the marina, Club de Pesca offers tasty cuisine in a friendly atmosphere.
As a general rule, remember to book in advance.
In Cartagena, you can save on your meal budget. Many restaurants offer “el menú del día,” which is usually good and hearty at an unbeatable price. Among the restaurants serving good traditional cuisine, I recommend Espiritu Santo. The setting is simple but the value for money is excellent.
In Getsemaní, you can find great little restaurants like Colombitalia, which serves excellent arepas and offers vegetarian options. La Mulata in San Diego offers hearty and tasty Colombian cuisine at a very reasonable price. The patacones are delicious. I also enjoyed Arrabal Gastrobar.
Finally, go to Montmartre in the San Diego neighborhood for a taste of French cuisine or a delicious ceviche in an intimate setting.
Colombians love sugar. Don’t resist the temptation of a sweet treat from Nia Bakery or a refreshing delight like a delicious ice cream from La Gelateria Tramonti, my favorite ice cream shop—I tried them all.
I love going for brunch at La Brioche. Epoca and Café de la Mañana are also great places for a hearty breakfast.
And don’t hesitate to buy freshly squeezed orange juice from a street vendor.
Exploring Cartagena also involves tasting Colombian cuisine.
The Getsemaní neighborhood offers some culinary treasures for a memorable dining experience. I recommend Celele for its creative dishes in an intimate setting, Samba, a delightful Caribbean bistro, and La Cocina de Pepina for its traditional and hearty dishes.
In the historic center, Agua de León is a trendy spot with good food, but the wait can be long.
I personally love tasting street food in the places I visit. It’s also a good way to manage your budget.
I suggest trying Carimañola, a large fried fritter made from cassava flour and stuffed with meat or cheese, or the Shrimp Ceviche with salsa rosada (ketchup + mayo), a fresh and flavorful dish—it might surprise you.
Of course, don’t miss the traditional Patacones with Queso Costeño, flattened and fried plantains topped with cheese.
To finish, a fruit salad is a great way to taste fruits you never even knew existed.
© Tomplanmytrip
getting to cartagena de indias
Many flight and bus connections.
Several airlines (Avianca, LATAM, Copa Airlines) offer daily flights between numerous Colombian cities such as Bogotá, Medellín, or Cali and Rafael Núñez International Airport in Cartagena de Indias, which is about 15 minutes from the historic center.
The bus terminal in Cartagena is located outside the city. It takes about 45 minutes by taxi to reach the historic center.
Direct buses depart from most major cities, such as Bogotá (24h), Medellín (16h), Santa Marta (5h), Riohacha (7h), etc.
Don’t hesitate to take an overnight bus for longer trips (9h+).
The bus companies I like are Bolivariano, Expreso Brasilia, Copetran, and Rápido Ochoa.
If you want to come from Santa Marta or Barranquilla, the best way (aside from private transport) is to take the shuttle from Berlinastur or Marsol.
The journey is faster (around 4 hours from Santa Marta), and you’ll arrive directly in the center of Cartagena (about 15 minutes by taxi from the historic center).
The main drawback is that there’s little space for large suitcases and long legs.
© Tomplanmytrip
Getting around Cartagena
By foot, boat, or cab.
The historic center is small, making it very easy to explore on foot, and it only takes a 15-minute walk to get to Getsemaní.
Bodeguita is the tourist port in Cartagena, located across from the old city walls, just a 5-minute walk from the Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower). Public boats to the Rosario Islands typically depart from here (taking about 1 hour).
An entrance fee to the park will be required.
You can also rent a private boat to visit the Rosario Islands.
Be aware that taxis in Cartagena don’t have meters, and they will likely try to increase the price if you’re a foreigner. Ask for the price before getting in.
For reference, trips between Bocagrande, Getsemaní, and the old city shouldn’t cost more than 4 USD.
It will be much more expensive if you plan to travel outside the city.
© Tomplanmytrip
is Cartagena safe?
A safe city, but tourism attracts greed.
Avoid displaying your wealth if you want to keep the pickpockets at bay. Don’t carry too much money, leave your valuables at the hotel, and only bring a photocopy of your passport.
Also, watch your belongings when you go to the beach.
Late at night, travel by taxi. Your hotel can call one for you, or use mobile apps like Uber, Cabify, or Didi.
Turn on your little radar without becoming paranoid and don’t be fooled by someone with an overly friendly face. Don’t leave your drink unattended.
Also, be very cautious with Tinder.
As a tourist city, Cartagena is a particularly tempting ground for drug traffickers and prostitution networks. Stay away from them.
© Tomplanmytrip
my last tips
Here are my final hints to help you make the most of your stay in Cartagena de Indias.
The locals told me I could drink it, but I must admit, my stomach took a long of time to adjust. So, I recommend drinking filtered water or sealed bottled water.
Whether at a restaurant or on the beach, always ask for the prices before buying or ordering to avoid unpleasant surprises.
The costeños can often be a bit crafty.
Prices in Cartagena are much higher than in the rest of Colombia, especially for accommodation and restaurants/bars in the city center.
Therefore, I recommend this city to those with a sufficient budget to fully enjoy it. Otherwise, you might spend your time complaining about it being too expensive and touristy.
In short, it’s not a city for backpackers.
The taller, blond with blue eyes you are, the more you’ll be swarmed by street vendors and even rappers who freestyle about your appearance. After a while, it gets tiring.
But it’s a tough job, and they do it to make a living, so there’s no reason to look down on them. The easiest thing to do is to say “no, gracias” with a smile and then walk away without continuing the conversation.
However, be wary of beach vendors. Never accept their so-called gifts. It’s NEVER free.
© Tomplanmytrip
ITINeraries
To include Cartagena in your trip to Colombia.
The perfect itinerary to enjoy Cartagena without rushing.
Visit Cartagena for 2 nights, then take a trip to the Rosario Islands for 2 nights. Finish with one last night in Cartagena.
Ideal for those who want to spend long days at the beach.
Arrive at Tolu Airport and take a private transfer to Rincon del Mar. Stay for 3 nights. Then, hop on a small boat for a 2-night stay on Isla Mucura or Isla Tintipan. Return to Cartagena in 2 hours by boat.
The practical itinerary for visiting the most famous spots on the Caribbean coast.
After a short stay in Cartagena, take a shuttle to Santa Marta. From there, you can organize excursions to Playa Cinto and Minca. Next, head to the area around Tayrona, where you can stay in a beautiful hotel in the Sierra Nevada or by the beach. End this adventure with a multi-day expedition in the La Guajira desert.
© Tomplanmytrip
Favorite experiences in Cartagena, Colombia
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