Colombia Travel Guide
Yopal
Colombia
As the capital of the Casanare department, on the edge of the Eastern Andes, the city of Yopal embodies llanera culture, with its captivating harp music and cowboy ranches. Yopal is also the starting point for an incredible safari experience, through the vast plains of Los Llanos and animal watching—by jeep or on horseback.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT YOPAL, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
My favorite destination for animal watching.
Located on the edge of the Eastern Andes, the city of Yopal, with its 180,000 inhabitants, is the departmental capital of Casanare.
It is the second largest city in the eastern Llanos of Colombia (after Villavicencio). It also best represents llanera culture, with its vibrant music and numerous ranches (hatos).
It is a rather isolated destination, 9 hours from Bogotá and 6 hours from Villavicencio.
On a canvas of endless plains and winding rivers, settlers, Jesuit missionaries, and indigenous tribes have forged the spirit of Yopal. The Achaguas, the earliest inhabitants, practiced farming and used yopa in their rituals. Jesuits arriving in the 17th century turned the area into a center for livestock and agriculture.
Yopal came into being as a crossroads in 1915 when Elías Granados set up an estancia for mule drivers. By 1932, the first school opened, and by 1934, the first celebrations echoed with the Tasco band. The small settlement quickly flourished, becoming a key commercial hub in the 50s and 60s, attracting waves of migrants fleeing La Violencia.
The 90s were a golden age with the discovery of oil in Cusiana and Cupiagua, transforming Yopal into a center of oil activities and massive migration.
Today, with reserves dwindling, the department is focusing on tourism. Some of the vast hatos have been partially transformed into natural reserves, becoming paradises for wildlife observation.
Yopal is a captivating destination for nature and adventure enthusiasts.
If you love safaris, get ready to explore the Llanos plains, where you can spot exotic animals like the giant anteater, jaguar, and anaconda.
For culture lovers, you’ll enjoy the rich llanera tradition with its vibrant music and lively festivals.
For adventurers, Yopal offers horseback excursions led by local cowboys.
However, you can also discover the Llanos more comfortably by staying in beautiful hatos, where you can enjoy wildlife in a preserved setting.
Yopal is only 350 m above sea level, so you won’t risk getting cold.
Temperatures remain relatively constant throughout the year, averaging 29°C during the dry season and 26°C during the rainy season—when humidity is significantly higher.
December to March: The dry season transforms the savannah into a yellow landscape where water sources become scarce. This is the ideal time to observe wildlife, as animals gather around the remaining water sources.
April & November: These transitional months combine the benefits of both the dry and wet seasons. They are perfect for long horseback excursions, allowing you to enjoy the best conditions of both periods.
May to October: The wet season brings heavy rains, especially from May to July, flooding the savannah and covering it with flowers. Access to the most remote nature reserves becomes difficult, but it’s the ideal time for horseback rides and boat excursions.
Cultural events:
- Between October and December: Attend the Copa América de Coleo.
- December: Don’t miss El Cimarrón de Oro and the Festival del Gaván in San Luis de Palenque.
To fully enjoy Casanare, you need to arrange quite a bit of logistics. First, you need to get to Yopal and then drive for hours in a jeep to reach the hato where you’ll be staying.
The days are then organized to search for animals and experience life on these ranches. The sun is so intense that activities often occur early in the morning and late afternoon. I can assure you, you’ll want to stay for several days to increase your chances of seeing the animals and soaking in the magic of the place.
For these reasons, I recommend a stay of at least 5 days.
© Tomplanmytrip
THINGS TO DO IN YOPAL
There is little to see in Yopal.
The city of Yopal is barely a century old. There are no colonial buildings or architectural harmony—just long avenues with a few trees.
If you have some free time (as you’ll likely arrive the day before your adventure in Los Llanos), you can:
- Take a stroll through the main square, Francisco de Paula Santander, to sit on a bench in the shade of the trees.
- Enjoy a walk in La Iguana Park to catch a glimpse of the Crav Sur River.
- Visit the tiny Museo 8 de Julio to see old photos of Yopal and learn a bit about its history. Closed on weekends.
Do you have everything you need for your adventure in Los Llanos? Want to bring back some souvenirs? There are three shops I love in Yopal:
- Florentino for buying a handmade Llanero hat. I bought one for my father and had his name engraved on it. There’s a store in the Unicentro shopping mall.
- Sabor y Arte for purchasing crafts made by indigenous people and local artists.
- Tienda Amala is a store that reproduces its beautiful Llanos animal designs on clothing and everyday items.
Picture a huge, fiery orange-red sphere gradually rising over the savannah. Sunrises are breathtaking in Los Llanos, particularly from December to March when the humidity is lower.
For the best view, it’s ideal to be a bit elevated:
- Mirador de la Virgen: Yopal’s official sporty walk, taking about 40 minutes.
- Parque Temático Historia de Piedra: Offers the most beautiful view in Yopal, but you’ll need a taxi to get there.
Doña Barbara is an open-air restaurant located just 20 minutes by taxi from Yopal. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy a delicious Sancocho de Gallinas (enough for three people!) in a pleasant setting with live music. However, I recommend ordering before you get hungry, as the service can be quite slow.
You can also spot storks from the road on the edge of the Garcero Del Llano reserve, especially from January to March—if that’s your thing, I suggest coming early in the morning or late in the afternoon to see more of them.
© Tomplanmytrip
YOPAL SURROUNDINGS
Spotting animals and becoming a genuine Llanero cowboy.
Llanera culture embodies the daily life of the llaneros, highlighted by joropo (music and dance), poetry, traditions, coleo (sport), and gastronomy. Their lives are deeply intertwined with livestock farming, showcasing traditional skills like cattle herding and the crafting of hats and saddles.
Experience llanera culture in the hatos by taking part in farm activities: herding cattle on horseback, milking cows, and hearing legends by the fire.
To truly immerse yourself in this culture, live with a real cowboy. Visit the El Llanerazo Ranch Museum, managed by “El Seco,” a two-time best Llanero award winner. El Seco is dedicated to preserving llanera culture and has constructed buildings from wood, palm leaves, horsehair, and leather. He has also gathered traditional artifacts like turtle shell plates, ropes, saddles, and unique stirrups.
An unexpected and heartwarming encounter.
Bonus: he sings beautifully, too!
A horseback trip through the Llanos provides a complete immersion in llanera culture and wildlife. Several large hatos near Yopal (1.5-2.5 hours away) specialize in this type of experience. The hospitality is welcoming, and the scenery is beautiful, with capybaras basking in the sun.
Daily horseback explorations cover natural reserves of over 10,000 hectares. The landscapes range from savannah areas cleared by cattle to water expanses, perfect for sunset photos. The wildlife is abundant and diverse, including owls, ibis, herons, turtles, and giant anteaters.
Days begin early with sunrise rides and activities like fishing. Nights are spent in comfortable haciendas, surrounded by local wildlife. The experience also includes gathering semi-wild horses with the llaneros, offering a genuine immersion into their daily life.
This excursion is perfect for discovering llanera culture and the natural diversity of the Llanos.
A Colombian safari offers a unique opportunity to observe Colombia’s wildlife and flora. The ecosystems of the Llanos are home to iconic neotropical species known as the Big 5:
- The jaguar (Panthera onca), the largest feline in the Americas.
- The giant anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla), the largest of the anteaters.
- The anaconda (Eunectes murinus), one of the largest snakes in the world.
- The giant otter (Pteronura brasiliensis), the largest otter in the world.
- The capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris), the largest rodent in the world.
Herds of capybara and deer, pink dolphins, aquatic and terrestrial turtles, iguanas, caimans, porcupines, monkeys, pumas, and foxes can also be spotted.
Local conservation efforts make it easier to see these animals, although sightings are not guaranteed on every excursion.
Safaris can be conducted by jeep, bicycle, horseback, on foot, or by tractor. I recommend horseback excursions as it’s easier to approach the animals.
Depending on the time and season, you can choose the most suitable routes to maximize your chances of seeing these amazing animals in their natural habitat.
Los Llanos is a dream for birdwatchers, with nearly 800 species of birds. The open grasslands and wetlands allow for easy observation of avian wildlife, ideal for both seasoned and novice ornithologists.
Los Llanos stands out for its large groups of spectacular birds, such as ibis, storks, black skimmers, hoatzins, plovers, spoonbills, whistling ducks, and Orinoco geese. These gatherings offer unique photography opportunities.
More experienced birdwatchers will find rare species like the wire-tailed manakins, horned screamers, crested curassows, spectacled owls, jacamars, puffbirds, and sunbitterns with their impressive wing patterns.
There are two distinct birdwatching seasons:
- From May to October: Birds are active in nesting, mating, and raising their young.
- From December to March: The savannahs turn yellow, and water points dry up. This period sees the arrival of migratory birds. It’s possible to observe over 100 species in a single day.
A hato llanero is a large ranch focused on cattle breeding. Cows and horses roam freely, and the animals are gathered every six months for care, marked, and selected for sale.
These ranches are also cultural spaces, where llanero traditions and llanera music enrich daily life. Once vast, some hatos still cover thousands of hectares and house hundreds of thousands of cattle.
Some hatos have been transformed into natural reserves to attract tourism and preserve the environment. A hato llanero thus embodies harmony between humans, nature, and animals while remaining an economic and cultural pillar of the Llanos.
You can opt for a day trip from Yopal to the nearest hatos, but based on my experience, it’s not a good idea. You’ll miss the best times of the day: early morning after sunrise and late afternoon until sunset.
It’s better to stay overnight.
© Tomplanmytrip
HATOS AROUND YOPAL
This is the place where everything comes together. Choose wisely!
San Luis de Palenque is a picturesque village on the banks of the Rio Pauto, offering a serene and authentic environment. It’s a strategic location with several hatos 20 to 40 minutes away.
El Encanto de Guanapalo, a natural reserve of almost 9,000 hectares, includes three hatos: Mata de Palma, Altamira, and Montana. It’s where I saw the most capybaras, and it has a population of 30 pumas. You can stay at one of the three hatos or plan a horseback tour, staying alternately at all three, which I enjoyed as it allows you to experience different atmospheres. This is the most famous hato near Yopal (1h30 away), so it attracts more tourists.
Hato Boral is famous for its horseback excursions through breathtaking landscapes. Accompanied by experienced llaneros, you’ll explore the local biodiversity. This hato is ideal for day trips or multi-day adventures and is two hours from Yopal.
Near the village of Trinidad, about two hours from Yopal, Hato Berlin is surrounded by floodplains and a grove. This hato boasts diverse wildlife, including capybaras, caimans, and hundreds of birds. Despite the recent passing of its charming manager, Heiler, Berlin remains a magical place for nature adventures.
The Alta Gracia Reserve is a natural paradise for wildlife and photography enthusiasts. Comprising 14 private nature reserves, it features a lagoon of over 500 hectares surrounded by moriche palms, creating an ecosystem rich in biodiversity. This area is especially popular for safaris and birdwatching, hosting over 280 species, including the rare Orinoco Goose and several endangered species.
To reach Alta Gracia from Yopal, prepare for a 6-hour jeep ride, navigating muddy roads and endless pasture landscapes. You’ll be rewarded with incredible views and encounters with animals such as caimans, otters, anacondas, capybaras, and howler monkeys.
The atmosphere is authentic and peaceful, with spectacular sunsets and canoe rides on the lagoon. Local families, like Victor’s, share their history and culture, offering an immersive experience. It’s the perfect place to disconnect and reconnect with nature, far from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Alta Gracia is accessible by jeep only from late November to April—it’s also possible to book a small plane.
The Hato La Aurora nature reserve, 5 hours from Yopal, is a haven for jaguar enthusiasts. It’s one of the top spots in Colombia to witness this magnificent cat. Covering 16,000 hectares of savannas and forests, the reserve also shelters anacondas, capybaras, and over 300 bird species.
To get to La Aurora, you’ll be picked up at Yopal airport and driven by 4×4 to the Ecolodge Juan Solito, where you’ll spend your first night. The 4 or 5-day stay includes daily excursions to track jaguars with expert guides, requiring patience and silence.
The experience is rustic and genuine, with traditional meals and interactions with local vaqueros. Accommodation is in simple rooms with solar power and shared bathrooms. The days are filled with morning and evening observations and engaging discussions on jaguar conservation.
Your visit directly supports the protection of jaguars, a species at risk due to hunting and deforestation.
The best time for sightings is from January to March.
Our favorite expert in Yopal can easily arrange this for you.
The hatos of Savanna Orinoquia Lodge and San Pablo, near Orocué, provide a high-end and comfortable experience amidst Colombia’s natural beauty. They are ideal for exploring Orocué village and the Wisirare Biopark, where you can learn about the conservation of the llanero caiman and other local species.
The landscapes are stunning, but there are fewer animals to observe.
Savanna Orinoquia Lodge, situated on the Río Cravo Sur, features private bungalows with a pool, offering a luxurious nature experience. Activities include hiking, horseback riding, boat excursions, and trike flights over the savannas. The lodge is accessible from Yopal in 2.5 hours by road or via a private airstrip. However, this experience is more luxurious than authentic.
Hato San Pablo is a traditional 7,000-hectare estate focused on cattle ranching and tourism. Activities include horseback rides, tractor tours, plane flights, and fishing. Accessible within 3 hours from Yopal, the hato also offers cultural experiences like parranda learners with typical music and food.
Your Casanare expert can easily arrange all the logistics for you.
Hato Barley, located between Tauramena and Maní, spans over 8,000 hectares and offers an authentic Llanero safari experience. Just 2 hours from Yopal (or 5 hours from Bogotá), you can enjoy multi-day stays with comfortable accommodations. Discover the region’s rich wildlife by exploring the savannas on horseback, on foot, or by 4×4. Observe large herds of capybaras, deer, and hundreds of birds in their natural habitats.
Activities also include hiking through gallery forests, wetlands, streams, and piranha fishing (caribe). For cycling enthusiasts, 30-kilometer circuits allow you to immerse yourself in nature while getting some exercise.
The hato also offers cultural experiences, such as the llano work in May and November, where you can observe and participate in the traditional tasks of the vaqueros. Additionally, the hato is involved in conservation projects in partnership with the Panthera Foundation to protect felines like the puma and ocelot.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY IN YOPAL
The best accommodations in and around Yopal.
There are two main strategic areas for booking accommodation. You can either search near the main park (Francisco de Paula Santander) or around the Unicentro shopping center.
Due to the oil boom, several major hotel brands have opened in Yopal. GHL and Estelar are good options if you want a (somewhat) modern room—and Estelar has a pool.
For a budget-friendly option (since you’ll likely stay just one night before heading out), Casa Cabieles is ideal (and the owner gives excellent advice).
For a mid-range choice, stay at Hotel Camoruco. It offers a pool and comfortable rooms (with fantastic new mattresses!).
Since the city of Yopal isn’t one of Colombia’s must-see destinations, you might prefer staying on the outskirts, surrounded by nature. This is a much more pleasant way to start your adventure.
Here, choose a hotel with a pool where you can regularly cool off while lounging in a hammock with a good book.
Casa Cumbres Ecolodge offers exactly this. Nestled in lush vegetation with a lovely staff, it’s just 15 minutes from Yopal.
San Luis de Palenque is a peaceful little village located on the banks of the Rio Pauto—about 2 hours from Yopal by private transport. It’s an excellent base if you want to do only day trips, as you’ll be close to many hatos (20 – 40 minutes away). I loved the atmosphere of this small village with its lush streets.
I discovered an excellent hotel there. Posada el Diamante is a small guesthouse located near San Luis de Palenque (5 minutes by car). The garden is filled with fruits and flowers, attracting many birds and animals (monkeys!). There’s even a 45-minute walk through the forest to observe them.
A little tip for the road: don’t forget to try the local specialties at La Patrona restaurant.
The hatos I’ve listed all provide comfortable rooms but don’t expect luxury. Except for San Pablo and Savanna Orinoquia, none of the rooms are air-conditioned (they use fans), and there’s no pool or hot water—though you won’t need it given the heat.
© Tomplanmytrip
EATING AND DRINKING
My favorite bars and restaurants in Yopal
Head to Calle 11 # Carrera 25 to be in the “Zona Gourmet”.
- La Res is ideal for meat lovers.
- Croquante serves delicious food (international dishes).
- El Brasero is famous for its typical llanera cuisine (for lunch).
- Asadero Nato is our expert’s favorite spot for llanera-style meat.
- Doña Barbara serves the best Sancocho (for lunch).
- Las 3 Topias is the place to enjoy traditional coffee while listening to llanera music.
- Terraza Llanera is a gastrobar that features live music on Thursdays at 8 PM.
© Tomplanmytrip
HOW TO GET TO YOPAL
And getting around.
Yopal Airport (El Alcaravan) offers direct flights only from Bogotá, with Latam and Clicair (40 minutes).
If you’re coming from another city, it’s best to take Latam, as you won’t need to change terminals.
The cities with the most direct departures to Yopal are Bogotá (9 hours, Coflonorte), Sogamoso (5 hours, Flota Sugamuxi), and Villavicencio (5 hours, Flota Sugamuxi).
There are also some departures from Bucaramanga (11 hours, Flota Sugamuxi) and Tunja (6 hours, Coflonorte).
There are three possible routes from Bogotá to Yopal. The best one is the Guateque-Santa Maria-Monterrey-Yopal route. It goes through many tunnels, making it the shortest and cheapest option. Plus, it is fully paved.
It’s not easy to reach a hato by public transportation. The only hatos where this is possible are those located on the route between Yopal and Orocué (Encanto and Boral). You will need to tell the bus driver to drop you off on the main road in front of the hato entrance. Make sure the staff is already there, as there is very little phone network coverage.
The classic option is to take a jeep. The hato will give you a contact to call, or you can use a local agency to organize your stay.
Be mentally prepared. Jeep transport is very expensive because the drivers are independents who usually work for oil companies that pay them generously. You may also experience a rough ride depending on your destination due to road conditions.
In the dry season, you can reach all places by jeep. However, some hatos become inaccessible during the rainy season due to flooding. This includes San Pablo, La Aurora, and the Alta Gracia reserve.
Another option (even more costly and less eco-friendly) is to take a small private plane (ULM) from Bogotá or Yopal. You will land directly at the hato. This is available for San Pablo, Savanna Orinoquia, and Alta Gracia.
© Tomplanmytrip
IS YOPAL SAFE?
I didn’t feel unsafe in Yopal and even less so in the hatos. Since Yopal is a large city, I recommend staying in the areas I mentioned and avoiding walking around with your iPhone around your neck (just the basic precautions).
© Tomplanmytrip
MY LAST TIPS
My final advice on how to get the most out of Yopal.
Due to the cattle and the rain, there are many tiny bloodsuckers:
- Mosquitoes: May-November
- Ticks: December-April
- Coloraditos: October-December and April-May
Coloraditos are the worst. They are almost microscopic and climb onto you while walking in the savannah. They then bite you at night, causing terrible itching.
That’s why it’s important to regularly apply mosquito repellent on the tops of your boots to prevent them from climbing up. You can also ask the hato if they have Chimu potion (that’s what they use).
In the evening, it’s important to take a shower and scrub your body with an exfoliating glove to try to kill them. And remember to sleep in clean clothes!
Lastly, a Jedi trick: apply Vaporub (bought at the pharmacy, similar to tiger balm) on the bites to reduce itching. You can also use Trigentax and aluminum acetate—great for healing.
- Comfortable, lightweight, and quick-drying clothing (linen), preferably in earth tones to blend better with nature.
- Long pants and long-sleeved shirts to protect against the sun and mosquitoes.
- Hat and sunglasses.
- Waterproof boots (ask your agency).
- Sunscreen and mosquito repellent (Nopikex works well).
- Water bottle.
- Basic personal hygiene items.
- Flashlight, power bank, camera, binoculars.
- A medium-sized backpack for activities.
There are certain periods that are better for observing specific animals:
- More animals can be observed from January to March, as they gather around the scarce water sources.
- Puma: in March
- Morocoy turtles: lay eggs in November.
- Anacondas: around 10 AM from January to April (digesting in the sun).
- Anteaters: at dawn when they return to sleep.
- Jaguar: January-March
- Capybaras and deer: can be seen everywhere.
Try to read La Vorágine by José Eustasio Rivera before you come.
It’s a classic of Latin American literature, essential for understanding the Llanos and Colombia. The novel vividly depicts life in the jungle and critiques the abuses associated with rubber exploitation. It explores the contradictions between civilization and barbarism, highlighting the region’s social conflicts and cultural richness.
Additionally, there are two Instagram accounts I recommend following:
Claro is the best mobile operator for coverage in Casanare. However, once you go deeper into the savannah, there’s no network at all.
The hatos usually provide internet for their guests. This is generally enough to send WhatsApp messages to your loved ones.
© Tomplanmytrip
GOING WITH AN AGENCY
You can certainly visit a hato without a local agency. However, it can still be very helpful. Here’s why.
Tourism is a recent activity for the hatos. They are not yet accustomed to receiving tourists.
- Most do not offer private transportation solutions to get to the hato.
- The farm employees serve as guides. They are friendly, and listening to their stories is interesting, but they are not trained in tourism.
- They do not have boots or binoculars to lend you.
- They don’t organize small surprises like sunset aperitifs.
In short, there are many small details that a local agency will take care of for you.
When you contact an agency, you can tell them which animals you really want to see or decide which hatos you can visit based on your physical condition.
The agency can then create a personalized trip for you with one or more stops.
While it’s possible to arrange your own private transport to the hatos closest to Yopal, this won’t be feasible for the more distant hatos, as the drivers would need to stay with you for the entire duration of your stay.
You’ll need to go through an agency if you want to visit hatos like the Alta Gracia Reserve or La Aurora.
In Colombia, communicating with locals via WhatsApp can be challenging (and by email, it’s nearly impossible). Hato managers have a lot of work and might take a long time to respond (either because they forget or due to a lack of network).
Additionally, speaking Spanish well enough to arrange your stay is better.
Going through an agency means you’ll receive prompt responses and can communicate in English or Spanish.
To sum up, using a local agency in Yopal will allow you to stress less and organize a stay that perfectly suits you. Given that this type of destination can be expensive, it’s best to maximize your chances of having a great experience.
© Tomplanmytrip
ITINERARIES
How to include Yopal in your trip to Colombia.
This is the most traditional option. You fly into Yopal from Bogotá, explore Los Llanos for 5 days, and then depart from Yopal to another major Colombian city (with a transfer in Bogotá).
Instead of flying to Yopal, you can break the journey in two by visiting the beautiful colonial village of Monguí (and taking a hike in the Páramo de Ocetá). Stay there for two nights before heading to Yopal via Sogamoso.
You can also visit the Villa de Leyva instead of Mongui. Stay there for two nights before taking a bus from Tunja to Yopal.
At the end of your Llanos safari, you can take a bus to Bucaramanga and stop off at San Gil—this last option has yet to be confirmed.
© Tomplanmytrip
Favorite experiences from Yopal, Colombia
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