Coffee region - PNN Los Nevados - Adrien at the top of Nevado Santa Isabel

PEREIRA

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  • Thomas Espeute

    I fell in love with Colombia in 2015, and then with Aleja, a Colombian woman, in 2019. Now living in Colombia, I spend my time discovering the country's hidden gems and crafting extraordinary itineraries.

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Pereira is a major Colombian city with a population of 500,000, situated in the Risaralda department in the Coffee Region, part of the natural Andes region.

The city is about 50 km from Manizales and Armenia.

Jorge Robledo established Pereira on the territory of the Pijao and Quimbaya Indigenous tribes in 1540. However, the settlement experienced a difficult start, with name changes and abandonment.

Only in the early 20th century did it begin to flourish, drawing people from Antioquia, hence why they are all called Paisas.

There’s not much to see in Pereira itself.

But it’s an excellent base for exploring the coffee region, being easily accessible (by plane or bus) and close to many tourist attractions, like organizing a trek in Los Nevados.

I suggest renting a car or hiring a local agency for private tours.

If you intend to use only public transportation, opt for another destination (Filandia or Salento).

With an altitude of 1500 m, Pereira has comfortable temperatures year-round (comparable to Medellin). Rain is frequent (a few hours each day), but sunnier days are typical from January to March and from July to August.

As the city isn’t crowded with tourists, there is no high season (keep this in mind if visiting Salento and Filandia).

The most significant celebration is Las Fiestas de la Cosecha, lasting two weeks starting in mid-August (the city’s anniversary).

It’s a great opportunity to combine a coffee and/or cocoa tour with visiting colonial villages (Salento, Filandia), hiking (Cocora Valley or Los Nevados), and then relaxing in the hot springs. I suggest a stay of 4 to 6 days.

Pereira Coffee Region

Here are a few suggestions if you find yourself in Pereira and need some plans for your day.

  • Head to the city center to see the impressive Cathedral of Nuestra Señora de la Pobreza de Pereira (featuring stunning wooden beams and red brick architecture).
  • Take a walk through the small botanical garden at the Universidad Tecnológica (guided or self-guided).
  • Visit the artistic community of La Florida (a neighborhood just outside Pereira).

Enjoy your stay in Pereira by sharing the lives of the local rural inhabitants.

Many families in this area rely on coffee cultivation. Some of these fincas are open to tourists—I especially like Finca de Manolo and La Divisa de Don Juan.

You can also visit a delightful cocoa farm (Finca El Turpial) and a panela production site (artisan sugar from sugarcane). Each visit offers a chance to follow the production process from start to finish and provides a glimpse into the daily lives of the delightful owners.

Don’t miss the opportunity to have lunch there if you can—I always enjoy it.

Coffee Tour Jerico Antioquia Colombia

© Tomplanmytrip

It’s one of my favorite national parks to discover the stunning biodiversity of the Andes (from humid groves to páramos to glaciers).

One of the most well-known treks starts just after the SFF Otún Quimbaya, passing first through La Pastora, then by the Otun Lagoon, and ending at the summit of the Santa Isabel glacier. It’s a beautiful 3-day trek where we crossed superb landscapes and stayed in rural accommodations—one of my favorite experiences in Colombia.

You can hike in Los Nevados without a guide, but it’s complicated logistically, and you won’t be able to ascend glaciers.

Otún Quimbaya is a beautiful nature reserve about one hour from Pereira. It is known for birdwatching and howler monkeys. The trail is well-maintained and easy to walk.

There are specific opening hours, and I recommend booking in advance to avoid disappointment. You can only enter with a guide from the reserve. It’s also much easier to arrange your visit through an agency in Pereira.

This is the most famous site in the coffee region, home to the famous giant wax palms (60m+).

If you’re traveling by public transport, you first need to get to Salento (1 hour) and then take a jeep from the village square (30 min). Once there, several trails are available. I recommend the approximately 5-hour loop. No guide is needed.

If you go through an agency, you’ll have time to combine the Cocora Valley with another destination.

Several colonial villages an hour’s drive from Pereira offer great day trips. Here are a few itinerary suggestions:

  • Salento + Cocora Valley.
  • Filandia + Barbas Bremen.
  • Marsella with its House of Culture.
  • Belalcazar and the breathtaking view from a giant Christo Rey (Cauca Canyon and Magdalena Canyon) — the village itself isn’t very interesting.

Santa Rosa de Cabal is the most famous thermal spa. Easily accessible (45 minutes from Pereira) and located on a beautiful property, it’s a popular spot for Colombians on weekends. When it’s crowded, it feels like a public pool with large cement basins.

I enjoyed going in the evening with my in-laws, although you can’t appreciate the scenery as much. However, the lighting is lovely, and the cold air makes the hot springs more enjoyable.

The San Vicente hot springs are more difficult to access (1h15), but the setting is more enjoyable than Santa Rosa de Cabal. The atmosphere is more natural, with small pools surrounded by vegetation and facing impressive mountains.

We stopped there after our Santa Isabel trek, and it was the perfect spot to soothe our sore muscles.

Los Nevados Narural Park Coffee Region (4)

© Tomplanmytrip

Circunvalar is the “Zona Rosa” of Pereira, where you’ll find great restaurants and bars. If you want to stay in the city, this is the neighborhood I suggest. Additionally, the bus station is close by.

For budget accommodations, I recommend Hostal Nogal; for a boutique hotel atmosphere, Hotel Don Alfonso is ideal. If you want a more luxurious and comfortable stay, go for Movich.

There are several high-end hotels around Pereira, many located to the west of the airport. Cerrito is an ideal area if you’re looking to relax in a comfortable setting and take day trips in the coffee region. However, it requires a solid budget.

My preferred hotel is Sazagua. This comfortable boutique hotel offers excellent experiences. Another alternative is Petra Santa Boutique Hotel.

La Colina Spa Hotel is a large and beautiful property, but it can be crowded on weekends with Colombians who bring their speakers. Sonesta Hotel is less appealing but is a good option for families.

The ideal place to drink delicious cocktails.

To party like Colombians.

It is the only bar on my list that’s not on Circunvalar Avenue. It’s an old-fashioned bar with an authentic atmosphere where you can listen to old but superb Colombian music (salsa, bolero, tango) played on vinyl records.

Beer BBC Antioquia

© Tomplanmytrip

A good option if you’re looking to grab a bite after visiting the Cathedral of Pereira. Famous for its Turrones (60 years of experience), it also has a nice restaurant in the courtyard garden.

For meat lovers and refreshing sangria.

For enjoying delicious Colombian food.

The go-to place for vegetarian travelers.

A pleasant atmosphere for enjoying a good cup of coffee, chatting with friends, and eating cheesecake.

Food Fredonia Antioquia

© Tomplanmytrip

It is only 20 minutes from the city center and offers direct flights from all major cities in Colombia, the United States, and Panama. You can also use the airline Clicair to reach the small airport in central Medellin.

You can also head to Nuqui (Pacific Coast) during the whale season!

You can get there by bus from several cities, including Bogota (9 hours), Medellin (6 hours), and Cali (4 hours). There are also frequent departures from Armenia or Manizales (1 hour).

Hourly departures from the terminal are available with Expreso Alcala. The trip lasts 1 hour.

First, take the morning chiva to Riosucio (3 hours), then a bus to Pereira (4 hours).

Holaya Herrera Medellin Airport - Colombia

© Tomplanmytrip

The taxis in Pereira are very friendly and honest. Feel free to use them. The city is also not very big, so the fares are reasonable. Uber is also available.

I prefer using Localiza, which is conveniently located near the airport. If you decide to rent a car, I suggest staying at a hotel outside the city to take advantage of the landscape, have parking, and explore the surroundings more easily.

Rental Car Localiza

© Tomplanmytrip

Paramos Frailejon Los Nevados Park Coffee Region

© Tomplanmytrip

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A small town in the Caldas department, Aguadas is known for its handicrafts, including the famous "aguadeño" hats made from iraca palm fiber. A hat museum explains the manufacturing process and how to wear them in the local style. The historic center is also well worth a visit. The thick fog that fills the streets of Aguadas in the early hours of the morning has earned it the nickname of "city of fog".
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