Travel guide
Arusi
Colombia
Arusi, 3 days of adventure between jungle and ocean, straight from our Pacific travel journal.
Discover stylish cabins just steps away from a fishing village, where you can dive into local life and play explorer—Darwin would’ve loved it.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT ARUSÍ, COLOMBIA
For making smart choices quickly and effortlessly.
GENERAL OVERVIEW
For lovers of adventure and authenticity.
Arusi is located in the Chocó department on Colombia’s Pacific Coast, about 1 hour by boat south of Nuquí and north of Cabo Corrientes.
By lancha, it takes around 30 minutes from Guachalito and just 15 minutes from Termales.
Fringed to the south by the jungle and to the west by the mouths of the Arusi and El Aji rivers, the village stretches along an endless beach.
Most of the population is Afro-Colombian, living with a native Indigenous group. Fishing is the heart of village life.
There’s something raw and authentic about this quiet village—bigger than Termales, yet still off the beaten path.
Arusi is an excellent spot for anyone curious about life in a Pacific coast pueblo or looking to connect with local traditions.
Its wide black sand beach isn’t the prettiest around, with mud and natural debris washed in from the river.
Adventurers can paddle a canoe up the river, hike deep into the forest on the stunning La Amargal trail, or search for snakes and frogs.
You’ll also find great spots for snorkeling and fishing nearby.
The Pacific coast is one of the rainiest places in the world, and your best chance for sunshine is from December to March.
- Surfing: best waves from May to November.
- Whale watching: July to October.
- Turtle spotting: August to February.
- Whale shark season: April to May.
Plan to stay 4 to 6 days in Arusi. If you dream of sleeping on beautiful beaches, consider adding Guachalito or Coqui to your trip.
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THINGS TO DO IN ARUSI
Exploration and local culture.
Arusi is an excellent spot for spotting snakes and frogs, including the famous Colombian Kokoï—if you’re lucky, you might see one.
Heading into the jungle at night adds a real thrill to your adventure.
Speaking of hiking, we had a fantastic guide during our forest trek! He shared his knowledge, pointed out native tree species, and explained how locals use the plants we came across—he works with our local partner 🙂
From the village, you’ll hop into a narrow, traditional canoe skillfully steered by a local—think Venetian gondolier, jungle edition. You’ll glide up the river’s clear waters, winding through lush vegetation until you reach a beautiful emerald-green swimming spot.
Leave early enough in the morning, and you might spot several bird species.
From Arusi, a small boat will drop you off in the mangroves with your guide. You’ll hike through lush vegetation until you reach a beautiful waterfall, perfect for a swim and a relaxed lunch break.
After crossing stunning landscapes, you’ll arrive at Playa de Amargal, a breathtaking, untouched desert beach.
A lancha will be waiting near the shore to take you back to Arusi—or if you’re feeling strong, you can hike back the same way.
This solid hike is around 5 hours long and requires some endurance (3.5/5 difficulty).
There’s a great snorkeling spot near Punta Arusi. You can walk along the beach at low tide, or ask a local to take you by boat. It’s also a popular area for spearfishing. La Arañosa is another top site.
If you’re into fishing, you can learn traditional fishing techniques—with nets or hand lines—and how to identify the local fish species.
Depending on the season, sport fishing fans can also go after yellowfin tuna, marlin, and other big catches.
If you’re into traditional crafts, locals from the village will gladly show you the ancestral weaving techniques and basketry using fibers from the Iraca palm.
It’s also a lovely way to connect with the community and glimpse their daily lives. That’s how I met Ana, a sweet soul with a deep passion for weaving.
You can also explore Chocoano culture through transcultural tours and learn about local medicinal practices, like the soothing power of a plant-based herbal bath.
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ARUSI surroundings
Chill vibes and marine wonders.
If you visit between July and October, you’ll have the chance to see humpback whales, especially during their mating displays in July and August.
Between April and May, it’s also possible to catch sight of whale sharks.
From Arusi, you can reach Termales, a charming fishing village, in just 15 minutes by boat, or walk along the beach at low tide—plan for about an hour on foot.
Termales is famous for its natural hot springs. I loved soaking in the two jungle-fringed pools before dipping into the cool waters of the river below.
It’s easy to grab lunch in the village—try Jenny’s empanadas or the delicious menu del día at La Flaca, which is always open and doesn’t require reservations.
The beach at Termales is stunning—perfect for a stroll and catching the sunset if you time it right.
Guachalito is one of my favorite beaches in Colombia.
Even though the ride is a bit long and pricey (about 30 minutes by boat), you can ask to be dropped off at the far end of the beach (right around here), do a little viche tasting, then walk the entire stretch of beach back to Termales—it’ll take about 1.5 hours on foot.
Once there, you can surf, enjoy the hot springs, grab a tasty lunch, and either take a boat back to Arusí or keep walking for another 2 hours—just watch out for the tide.
Cabo Corrientes is the easternmost cape on the Chocó coast, and you can reach it in about 50 minutes by lancha from Arusi.
The landscape is striking—rocky cliffs carve out natural tunnels along the shoreline. Thanks to the abundance of fish, it’s a well-known spot for fishing.
Experienced divers can enjoy stunning dives here, but the strong currents and deep waters make it a tough place for snorkeling.
If you’re into scuba diving, ask your ecolodge about the best options and dive spots based on your experience.
The best visibility is in January and February.
And if you’re visiting in May, you might just be lucky enough to dive into the middle of a massive, swirling sardine bait ball—a truly mind-blowing experience.
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WHERE TO STAY IN ARUSI
Village vibes or peaceful cabin.
You’ll find basic, budget-friendly accommodations in the village, but don’t expect peace and quiet—rooms aren’t well insulated, and the locals love playing music almost non-stop.
If you’re after more tranquility, I’d recommend staying in an ecolodge just a few minutes’ walk from Arusi (coming from Termales).
If you want to sleep peacefully without straying too far from the village, this ecolodge’s cabins are just right. Stylish and comfortable, each opens onto a garden or the jungle’s edge.
With only three cabins, it guarantees a cozy, full-board stay in a lovely setting—even if the beach isn’t the most inviting.
The manager is super friendly, and a truly top-notch local guide runs the excursions.
© Tomplanmytrip
DRINKING AND EATING
Traditional Chocoana cuisine.
Staying in Arusi’s ecolodges means enjoying full board, with meals served at regular hours and shared with other guests in a communal space. It’s warm, easygoing, and a nice way to meet the owner or manager.
Meals are freshly cooked using local produce, and mostly inspired by traditional Chocoano cuisine, with fish as the star. I love Pacific flavors!
You can ask for a packed lunch if you’re heading out on a trek.
Don’t forget to inform your ecolodge if you follow a special diet.
If you’re craving a bit of creativity on your plate in a cozy spot, treat yourself to a meal at Poleo, a charming restaurant about a 7–10 minute walk from the village heading toward Termales.
There, you’ll meet Francis, a super-friendly young chef from Medellín who fell in love with the Pacific. He’ll serve you a full tasting menu—two starters, a main course, and dessert, paired with a cocktail—a gourmet and inventive take on the ingredients of Chocó.
The price (around €20) may feel high for the region, but it’s worth it—the food’s a treat, and the vibe is super intimate and chill.
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HOW TO GET TO Arusi
And getting around the area.
When you arrive in Nuquí, head to the Muelle turístico to catch the public boat (it leaves in the early afternoon). Expect a tight ride next to your fellow passengers, and depending on the weather and sea conditions, be prepared to get wet. It is best to travel with a backpack and keep your valuables in a dry bag.
Once you arrive, you’ll have to jump straight onto the beach. Depending on the tide and the waves, the landing can be a bit of an adventure. I’d recommend wearing a swimsuit and closed-toe water shoes. If you’ve got flip-flops, tuck them in your bag—that way you won’t lose them mid-jump (like my mom did, haha).
You can choose to take your eco-lodge’s lancha privada. You’ll be able to set the departure time, and the ride will be much more comfortable, but the arrival conditions will be the same as with the lancha pública.
The price will be higher.
From Arusi, it’s possible to walk to Termales along the beach.
But don’t forget to check the tide times and coefficients to avoid getting trapped by the rising tide.
Since there are no roads, your only way to travel between villages and ecolodges is by boat—to reach Guachalito, Punta Brava, or to meet the whales. Fares change depending on fuel prices.
Motorized lanchas fit around 10 people, sometimes with a roof for sun protection, and always with life vests. The ride can get a little bumpy depending on the sea conditions, but trust me—these captains know what they’re doing.
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IS arusí SAFE?
Arusi feels very safe. I walked around with no worries, and the locals were genuinely friendly.
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Our adventures in Arusí, Colombia
After Coqui, Guachalito, and Termales, I continued my 13-day trip along Colombia’s Pacific Coast in February 2025 with a stop in Arusi.
Read my travel journal to follow the rest of my adventures. You’ll get a day-by-day look at my experience in Arusi, and discover how to make the most of this destination where adventure meets tradition.
TOM’S TIP
Check out our handpicked selection of ecolodges between Nuquí and Punta Brava, and don’t forget to read our complete Pacific Coast guide!
Day 8: Arrival in Arusi
12:30 PM – After 15 minutes on his lancha, a local fisherman drops us off on the beach in front of our new ecolodge. The landing’s a bit wild, but we’re getting pretty good at it by now 😉
Juancho, the hotel manager, while Rafael (the owner) is away, welcomes us on the beach with a big smile. We drop our bags off in our cabins, hang up our clothes to dry, and settle in around the big table in the social area, where an open kitchen overlooks the garden and two young women from the village are busy preparing lunch
Weaving workshop with Ana
After lunch, where we get to know our host, I head out on foot with Adrien and my mom for a weaving workshop (tejido) at Ana’s home, a 15-minute walk from the lodge.
Ana, originally a Paisa, settled in Arusi 20 years ago. She welcomes us on her covered terrace, crowded with old looms and baskets overflowing with spools of thread. She shows us different weaving techniques, then lets us choose the one we want to try.
I go for horizontal weaving to make a small rug. Adrien chooses vertical weaving, and my mom dives into creating a mini Wayuu-style bag. I quickly realize I didn’t pick the easiest one!
For three hours, we each work on our piece, guided by Ana’s kind words, infinite patience, and easygoing spirit.
Okay—I’ll admit it, the process was a bit of a challenge, and my little rug came out looking… let’s say “abstract” 😉 But I loved chatting with Ana, and we all left with our creation and a little burst of pride.
Back at the ecolodge, I walk around the property and snap a few photos.
7:00 PM – Dinner with Rob and Carol, a pair of bird-loving Americans—my dad is in heaven. We finish the evening with a cold beer and a chat with Juancho.
ADRIEN’S TIP
It was in Arusí that I discovered the richest variety of cultural experiences.
Get in touch with our local partner to help you organize your stay and set you up for some truly memorable encounters 🙂
Day 9: The incredible Amargal Trek
8:00 AM – I grab breakfast and pack my bag for today’s trek.
8:45 AM – Our guide Samy shows up to take us on the Amargal trek.
WALK with Arusi’s best guide
Boots on, we walk to the village and hop on a boat. We cruise through the bay, then head up the Rio Arusisito, a narrow river winding through the mangroves.
The boat drops us off right in the jungle. Samy quickly crafts a walking stick for each of us. We dive into the forest, following a muddy trail, tangled with roots, and at times steep and slippery.
Samy is a top-notch guide, filling the trek with fascinating stories and local knowledge. We learn to spot trees such as the Lechero, whose sap works as a purgative, and the Espavé, prized for canoe-building. He also points out the palm trees used for building traditional thatched roofs.
WATERFALL AND SECRET BEACH
After about 3.5 hours of hiking, we reach Roñosa Waterfall. Adrien and I can’t resist jumping into the refreshing pool beneath it. The hike worked up our appetites. Samy pulls our lunches out of his bag—hearty portions of rice and tuna, neatly wrapped in a banana leaf and prepared by the cook at our ecolodge.
Back on the trail, we push through more jungle and finally reach Playa Amargal, a vast, beautiful, deserted beach. Walking along the exposed shoreline, I feel like I’m the only person on earth. Then the rain begins to fall.
Our lancha is waiting just off the beach, and we hop back to the ecolodge. The swell makes boarding a little acrobatic, but nothing we can’t handle.
A surprising dinner
The rain comes and goes. Around 6:00 PM, taking advantage of a break in the clouds, we head to the village to catch the sunset on the beach. Sitting on one of the boats beached along the exposed shoreline, I sip a cold beer. A long line of pelicans glides across the sky, heading back to their roost for the night.
My day ends on a high note—with a refined dinner at Poleo.
Just a few minutes’ walk from our ecolodge, tucked inside a small house surrounded by greenery, I discovered a creative and generous cuisine led by Francis, a chef from Medellín who fell for Chocó. He greets you with a smile, serves each dish wholeheartedly, and clearly knows his craft.
For around 20 euros, you’ll enjoy a full tasting menu: ultra-fresh pargo (red snapper) ceviche, a viche-based cocktail, fish soup, pargo served with batata, rice, and local veggies, plus a delicate homemade dessert.
Pour environ 20 euros, tu dégustes un menu complet : ceviche de pargo ultra frais, cocktail au viche, soupe de poisson, pargo accompagné de batata, riz et légumes locaux, plus un dessert tout doux.
The vibe is intimate, almost secret—like a hidden little jungle retreat. Warm decor, surprising flavors… and a real culinary personality in the kitchen. Honestly, if you’re looking to treat yourself in the middle of nowhere, this is a spot you don’t want to miss.
TOM’S TIP
If you plan to hike the Amargal trek, prepare for a pretty intense hike. And don’t forget your mask if you want to look for crayfish in the Roñosa waterfall.
Day 10: Up the Arusisito River and on to Punta Brava
After breakfast, we head to the village with Samy, Rob, Carol, and a young Colombian couple, to the riverbank.
Silent river drift
9:30 AM – We climb into narrow two-person canoes and slowly begin our trip up the Rio Arusisito. With my binoculars around my neck, I scan the trees for birds, though there aren’t many this late in the morning. The vegetation is lush and beautiful, the crystal clear water, and a profound quiet surrounds us. I love just drifting along.
I can’t help but laugh watching my parents’ canoe sway awkwardly—it takes a few pole strokes to get their balance right. In some spots, the water’s shallow, and my gondolier has to press down hard with his long pole to keep us moving.
After about an hour, we reach a beautiful swimming spot with cool, emerald-colored water. I jump right in. On the way back, we glide through the mangroves, peaceful and still.
Before returning to the ecolodge, we stop by Gabriela’s house, a local artisan who makes colorful woven baskets. I buy one for Aleja. As we leave the village, on Samy’s recommendation, we make a final stop to taste Rubi’s homemade ice cream—she’s his aunt—with flavors like coconut and borojó. So good.
Punta Brava, here we come!
1:00 PM – The private lancha from our next ecolodge picks us up right on the beach, taking us a little further south, in the direction of Buenaventura.
If you’re curious to discover the rest of my adventures along Colombia’s Pacific Coast, read the next chapter of my trip—my stay in Punta Brava, straight from my travel journal.
TOM’S TIP
Bring your binoculars if you have a pair. To spot more birds, head out earlier—around 7:00 AM, depending on the tide —ideally before breakfast.
The ecolodge with the most stylish cabins
Close to the village, this ecolodge is run by Juancho and Rafael (the owner), who are always kind and attentive. He’s there to greet us on the beach after every excursion. He speaks a little English, which might help!
The three cabins are beautiful wooden structures built with local natural materials, each with a unique design and space for 3 to 4 people. They’re comfortable, tastefully decorated, and closed off with large curtains or folding panels according to the style. Scattered throughout the garden, they feel private and peaceful.
Two of them have their outdoor showers. It’s not super practical if you need to get up at night, but honestly, there’s something really fun about showering in the middle of the jungle.
One cabin, tucked away at the back of the garden, opens onto the mangrove on both sides—it’s the most intimate. The other two face the sea. One of those has two levels, with a separate living space on each.
The main social space, where meals are prepared and served, is warm and spacious, with its impressive wooden structure. The food is tasty and homey, simple.
Another common area by the beach also features a kiosk, a deck with oversized floor cushions, and a bar facing the ocean—perfect for chilling at sunset.
The ecolodge offers a wide range of tours—from trekking and craft workshops to snake spotting—and works with Samy, an excellent local guide.
Even if the beach isn’t the most spectacular, this stylish ecolodge is an excellent option if you’re looking for a stay that strikes a solid balance between comfort, community, privacy, and easy access to a Pacific coast village.
THE team BEHIND THIS ecolodge
Rafael, the owner and creator of this beautiful ecolodge, wasn’t there during our visit, but he’s the one I was in touch with to organize our stay.
The booking process was smooth and fast—already a big win when planning a trip in such a remote area. Another huge plus: the ecolodge works hand-in-hand with some truly fantastic local guides.
While we were there, Juancho, a diving enthusiast, was managing the place. He was always smiling, attentive, and gently making sure everything went well without ever being intrusive. The kind of presence that makes your stay feel all the more pleasant and personal.
HOW TO CONTACT HIM?
Super simple!
Just head to the experience page we made for him.
We always recommend staying at least four days with our partners on the Pacific coast—it’s the best way to truly immerse yourself in the place’s magic.
Don’t worry, though; everything is flexible depending on your plans and the time of year.
You’ll find a “Contact this partner” button on their page. Just click and fill out a super short form (takes less than a minute), and we’ll link you up with them on WhatsApp for free.
From there, you can chat at your own pace and figure out all the details together. Easy, right?
ADRIEN’S TIP
We’ve got other great partners in the area, too. Check out their profiles to decide where you’ll be dropping your bags.
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