Colombia Travel Guide
SAN JOSÉ DEL GUAVIARE
COLOMBIA
San José del Guaviare, the capital of Guaviare, is famous for its millennia-old rock paintings and remarkable rock formations. Positioned at the crossroads of the Llanos plains and the jungle, it offers nature enthusiasts diverse landscapes, natural pools, and vibrantly colored rivers, serving as a great alternative to Caño Cristales.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT SAN JOSÉ DEL GUAVIARE
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
The incredible transformation of San José del Guaviare
San José del Guaviare is a small city with 60,000 residents and the capital of the Guaviare department in central-eastern Colombia, positioned between the Llanos Orientales and the Amazon.
The city is 400 km south of Bogotá and 300 km south of Villavicencio.
San José del Guaviare is a relatively new city, initially founded in 1938 by missionaries aiming to convert the indigenous population. In the 1950s, it attracted a community fleeing the Violencia (the start of the civil war) who gradually turned to the illegal trade of marijuana and later coca plantations. Unfortunately, this activity drew illegal armed groups that took control of the entire territory until the 2016 peace agreement.
Today, it is an off-the-beaten-path tourist destination where visitors can discover incredible natural sites.
San José del Guaviare is a destination for adventurers eager to discover an unexplored and lesser-known part of Colombia. An accessible alternative to Caño Cristales, it is also famous for its stunning rock paintings, over 12,000 years old, its fascinating rocks that are part of the Guiana Shield, and its abundant flora and fauna, especially birdlife.
The transportation methods used to reach different sites, including powerful jeeps and long motorboats, add a dose of adventure that I particularly enjoy.
With an altitude between 130 and 420 meters, San José del Guaviare is hot and humid year-round (28-30°C). Known for its rivers, the rainy season offers the most activities.
- Dry season: From December to May. It rarely rains, especially from January to March, and some activities won’t be available, particularly Caño Sabana—similar to Caño Cristales.
- Rainy season: From June to November. It rains regularly (but briefly), and the rivers and waterfalls are stunning. This is my favorite time of year. There are more sunny days from August to November.
Given that San José del Guaviare is a relatively costly destination, you can opt for group tours that align with Colombian holidays.
It’s best to use a local agency to organize your entire stay. I like to plan for 3 to 4 nights, depending on the activities I can do and my arrival and departure times.
Since some tourist sites only require half a day, the agency can easily combine them to save you time. In any case, plan for at least 2 full days for Cerro Azul and Caño Sabana + Puerta de Orion.
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THINGS TO DO IN SAN JOSE DEL GUAVIARE
The appeal of San José del Guaviare lies in its natural sites outside the city.
La finca Trankilandia is crossed by a river where the famous aquatic plant Macarenia Clavigera grows. Its vibrant colors (shades of red) give the landscape a striking appearance. This spectacle, visible only from June to November, doesn’t quite rival that of Caño Cristales, but it’s definitely worth a visit.
Plan for half a day to enjoy it, and you can easily combine it with a hike in the savanna to see the Puerta de Orion.
The spectacular territory of Guaviare has been home to many indigenous peoples who, 12,000 years ago, used the tepuis to tell their stories. These red-colored paintings (due to manganese), protected from human activity, have been perfectly preserved (despite being completely exposed to the elements) and are easy to discern.
The two main sites are:
- Cerro Azul: Located 2 hours from San José del Guaviare by jeep, this site is the most impressive. Sublime paintings cover entire meters of several rock faces at the top of a tepuy. Animals, figures, and geometric shapes are clearly visible. Plan for a full day to visit.
- Cerro Tolima: Similar to Cerro Azul, but on a smaller scale. The site is closer to San José del Guaviare, and the hike to the top is less demanding.
Its location makes it a haven for nature enthusiasts (see here). You’ll find the famous Guaviare flower, along with many species of bromeliads and orchids. It’s also a favored spot for birdwatching (in much more comfortable conditions than the Amazon jungle) and for spotting monkeys.
Depending on your trip, you can also visit Laguna Damas de Nare, a property run by a lovely family, where you can easily see dolphins in their natural environment.
With the help of the government, some families have successfully transitioned from coca cultivation to tourism. I think it’s essential that the local agency you choose includes this type of visit to support these initiatives. In addition to hearing the hosts’ poignant stories, their properties often hold many surprises. Here are some of my favorites:
- EcoNare and dolphin watching.
- Playa Guio and Laguna Negra—perfect for sunset.
- Finca Chontaduro—on the way to Cerro Azul.
- Finca El Paraiso and its beautiful waterfalls.
Erosion turns time into an artist, and you can observe its work around San José del Guaviare:
- Puerta de Orion: An impressive isolated rock standing 12 meters high with a “hole,” surrounded by many legends.
- Ciudad de Piedra: Massive rocks aligned in a checkerboard pattern create alleys amid guava flowers, giving the impression of an abandoned city.
- Los Túneles: Natural caves forming a stone labyrinth, with sparse vegetation and rays of light filtering through.
- Pozos Naturales: A golden riverbed dotted with natural pools where you can swim only during the rainy season.
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WHERE TO STAY
My favorite hotels and rural accommodations in San José del Guaviare.
San José del Guaviare isn’t a stunning city, but I liked its authentic vibe. It’s the most convenient base for exploring the region, and local agencies have partnerships with several hotels. Don’t expect boutique hotels here; accommodations are pretty basic:
- De Greiff House and Hostal Guaviare Soul offer great value for money.
- Hotel Quinto Nivel and Hotel El Aeropuerto are the most upscale options, though I find them pricey for the service quality. Hotel Tepuy is another alternative.
It’s a great way to avoid the hustle and bustle of the city and fully enjoy nature. Choose a hotel located to the west of San José del Guaviare to be closer to the various tourist sites:
- Playa Guio is situated on the edge of Laguna Negra.
- Cabaña Doña Luz is close to Caño Sabana and Puerta de Orion.
- Nukak Eco Lodge is located on Laguna Herradura—away from everything.
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GOING OUT IN SAN JOSÉ DEL GUAVIARE
You don’t come here to party. However, don’t hesitate to head to the Rio Guaviare for a beer at sunset.
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EATING IN SAN JOSÉ DEL GUAVIARE
Don’t expect to eat in gourmet restaurants.
The agency you choose to explore San José del Guaviare should tell you about the different options available. There are plenty of standard restaurants (pizzas, hamburgers). However, you can also request something a bit more unusual:
- La Mamona: A specialty of tender veal from Los Llanos.
- La Lechona: A pig stuffed with rice and peas.
The indigenous communities in the area have limited interactions with the other inhabitants of San José del Guaviare. The Nukak community occasionally holds a Veleda Indigena (ceremony) to present their culture to tourists, which includes a meal.
You will likely be out on an excursion around lunchtime. According to the program, agencies often stop at a finca for a hearty meal of rice, beans, meat, and yuca. Alternatively, the meal may be wrapped in a banana leaf, known as a fiambre. You can choose from beef, chicken, pork, fish, or a vegetarian option.
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How to get to San José del Guaviare
From where will you travel?
This is the most practical destination for reaching San José del Guaviare. There are several flights per week from Terminal 2 (Puente Aéreo) with Satena and Clic airlines.
The road between Bogotá and San José is surprisingly well-kept. An economical and strategic option is to take an overnight bus with Flota La Macarena (about 10 hours). You can also use shared taxis or private transport to get there a bit quicker.
If you plan to first visit Los Llanos by stopping in Villavicencio, you can continue to San José del Guaviare by taking a bus with Flota La Macarena (6 hours).
There are jeeps that depart three times a week. I did it at the end of the rainy season, and the road was horribly muddy, shaking us around constantly. This is truly an option for adventurers who don’t have back problems and can afford to stay an extra day or two in case of cancellations due to impassable roads.
The journey now takes 7 hours—our expert told us that they had improved the road.
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GETTING AROUND San José del Guaviare
You’ll see, it’s a real adventure.
These are dirt tracks that lead to various tourist sites outside the city. To reach them, you’ll need a jeep. Depending on the jeep model, there are two benches in the back to accommodate more passengers. The ride can be bumpy, but the other seats are more comfortable.
The trips typically last between 40 minutes and 1.5 hours.
If the group is large enough, you can travel in long motorboats along the Guaviare River. I was particularly impressed by the Raudal de Guayabero, a section where the river narrows and forms rapids, cutting through massive cliffs and lush vegetation—it’s like stepping into an Indiana Jones adventure.
The Laguna Damas del Nare is also accessible by boat, and you should be able to catch the sunset on the way back.
Although jeeps and boats are used to get you as close as possible to the natural sites, you’ll still need to use your legs.
There are no trails that I would call “difficult“, but expect to walk for a few hours on each excursion. The hot and humid climate can make it a bit tougher for some people.
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IS SAN JOSE DEL GUAVIARE SAFE?
Even though its turbulent past still deters many Colombians, I never felt in danger in the city of San José del Guaviare or on excursions. However, the illegal coca trade is still prevalent in the Guaviare department, so I recommend going through a local agency rather than venturing out alone with a rental jeep.
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my last tips
To better enjoy San José del Guaviare
As you’d expect, but it’s worth pointing out, the water in San José del Guaviare is not drinkable. Take along a water bottle that you can refill regularly on your excursions.
The climate in San José del Guaviare can change rapidly. Make sure to pack a sturdy rain jacket to protect against heavy showers, and don’t forget your hat and sunscreen to prevent sunburn!
You can head to San José del Guaviare and book day trips as you go. While this may be slightly more economical (though not always, trust me), you’ll spend a lot of time organizing all the logistics, and it’s best to have considerable backpacking experience in South America.
Personally, I always suggest my readers book their agency in advance to have everything taken care of.
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ITINERARIES
How to include San José del Guaviare in your trip to Colombia.
After a few days in Bogotá, you can decide to spend 4 days at a hato in Puerto Gaitán (via Villavicencio) to explore Los Llanos, and then continue the adventure in San José del Guaviare for another 4 days. You can return to Bogotá by plane.
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Favorite experiences in San Jose del guaviare
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San José Del Guaviare: Explore its wonders in the wet season 4d
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San José Del Guaviare: Explore its wonders in the dry season 4d
Colombia
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Get ready for some amazing experiences in a little-known destination.
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