Colombia Travel Guide
LETICIA
COLOMBIA
Leticia, in the Amazonas department, marks the border of Colombia with Peru and Brazil. Located on the banks of the Amazon, the town itself isn’t very interesting, but it’s the key point for organizing day tours in the surroundings, starting multi-day treks in the Amazon with an agency, or joining an eco-lodge that will arrange your excursions.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT LETICIA, COLOMBIA
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GENERAL OVERVIEW
Leticia is the entrance to the mysterious Amazon world.
Leticia is the capital of the Amazonas department and the southernmost city in Colombia.
It marks the Colombian border with Peru (the town of Santa Rosa) and Brazil (the town of Tabatinga). Located on the banks of the world’s largest river, the Amazon, it lies in a region aptly called Tres Fronteras.
You’ll mostly land here if you plan to explore the Colombian Amazon.
Leticia, founded as a Peruvian river port in 1867, was named after the beloved of an engineer. It became part of Colombia in 1922.
Leticia is the primary access point to the Colombian Amazon, making it a necessary stop.
It’s a somewhat chaotic city with few attractions. It is mainly recognized as the starting point for multi-day treks in the Amazon.
It can also serve as a base for budget travelers to explore the surrounding areas—although I would recommend Puerto Nariño instead.
It’s hot (28°C) and humid all year long.
- During the high water season (Nov-May), the Amazon overflows into parts of the jungle, so you’ll spend more time on boats. You can kayak in breathtaking landscapes, but there will be more mosquitoes and rain.
- During the low water season (Aug-Oct), a significant part of the jungle emerges, so you’ll walk more. It rains much less, but the sun is scorching.
I love May to July because it rains less, but the jungle is still flooded.
The peak season is from 15/12 – 31/01, Easter week, July, and August. Book your eco-lodge in advance.
The most important events are the anniversary of Leticia (25/04) and Pirarucú de Oro (music festival in November).
The ideal stay in Leticia is 1/2 day (and one evening). This is enough to experience the city’s distinct atmosphere. It’s best to do this after your jungle expedition.
On arrival, your eco-lodge or agency will pick you up directly at the airport to start your adventure—stay at least 3-4 nights in the jungle.
If you’re on a tighter budget, you can spend two nights in Leticia, exploring the city’s accessible sites on your own, before heading to Puerto Nariño or an Indigenous community.
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THINGS TO DO IN LETICIA
Leticia doesn’t need a thorough visit. A few hours are enough to get a feel for it.
Go to Parc Santander at the end of the day, next to the white church. The area is bustling, and at dusk, you can watch thousands of parakeets roosting with a deafening sound. If you climb the bell tower, you’ll have a better view of this astonishing scene in the sunset.
Spend some time in the morning exploring the market, as it’s an excellent way to see what you’ll be eating during your trip. The market is on the path to the dock.
Visiting the ethnographic museum can give you a better understanding of local traditions before you embark on your Amazon adventure. It offers good explanations and free entry, so if you have time, don’t hesitate. The museum is closed on Sundays.
Leticia shares borders with Tabatinga in Brazil and Santa Rosa in Peru. A tuk-tuk can take you for a caipirinha in Brazil, and a 10-minute boat ride is all it takes to enjoy a ceviche in Peru.
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LETICIA SURROUNDINGS
Excursions that you can do with or without an agency.
By hosting one in ten known species on Earth, the Amazon is a massive biodiversity reservoir. You can get a glimpse of it by visiting the Reserva Natural Victoria Regia, the Reserva Marasha, or the Mundo Amazónico ecological park.
If you feel like playing Indiana Jones, take a trip to the Reserva Natural Tanimboca. You can see animals in their natural habitat, zipline over the forest, and spend a night in a treehouse if you decide to stay.
The public boat will get you to Puerto Nariño in 2 hours, a tranquil little town on the river where motorized vehicles are prohibited. It’s a short boat trip away from the lovely Tarapoto Lake, where you can see pink dolphins in the high water season.
From what I’ve heard, their ethics are far from honorable. The Fundación Maikuchiga, which focuses on the rehabilitation of monkeys and sloths saved from illegal trafficking, is a much better choice. It is situated in the indigenous community of Mocagua.
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EXPLORING THE AMAZON
For the full Amazon experience, there are only two options: a local agency or an eco-lodge.
When you think of the Amazon, you likely envision extraordinary animals like birds, pink and grey dolphins, crocodiles, snakes, caimans, tarantulas, monkeys, fish, or sloths.
You’re right.
But to have the chance to see them, you’ll need to move away from Leticia and dive deeper into the forest or venture onto the river. Only the knowledge and trained eye of your native guide will sometimes help you find them. A bit of patience is also required.
If an agency offers to take you to a reserve where you can touch the animals, refuse!
Traveling on the legendary Amazon River will be an essential part of your Amazon adventure, particularly during the high water season.
Navigating the river offers a wonderful opportunity to encounter curious grey and pink dolphins, observe birds in the treetops along the banks, and meet the residents of communities living along the river.
The Amazon is also perfect for kayak trips on the lakes or through the flooded forest during the high water season, and for learning to fish for piranhas with the delight of enjoying your catch for dinner in the evening.
With your knowledgeable local guide, you can venture for several days into the world’s largest rainforest. You’ll walk on barely marked trails, sleep in a hammock, battle insects, sweat, cook over a wood fire, and wake up to the sounds of birds and monkeys. The true adventure!
With your guide, you will connect with communities who will share their traditions, tell you wonderful legends, and help you understand the significance of Amazon protection programs. The indigenous communities that impressed me the most are Mocagua, San Martin, and Tarapoto.
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WHERE TO STAY IN LETICIA
My favorite hotels and eco-lodge in the city and in the jungle.
Leticia is a small city with a few good hotels ideal for gathering strength before starting your adventure or for resting after your trek.
Waira Suite for its modern comfort, 3F Hostel for its hospitality and affordable apartments, and Hotel Madreselva for its lovely setting at very reasonable prices, are my favorites.
Staying in an eco-lodge deep in the jungle is the best way to discover the magic of the Amazon rainforest. Don’t expect luxury, but they are well-adapted to the environment. You’ll need to take a boat to get there.
- The Marasha eco-lodge (Peru), with its simple but well-designed lodgings, seems to float on the gentle waters of a lake.
- The Axel eco-lodge (my favorite) is a treasure 3 hours from Leticia, ideal for immersing in the jungle and arranging all kinds of experiences with your private local guide. You can stay in a private cabin or in a dorm.
- Calanoa, located between Leticia and Puerto Nariño, offers a high-end stay on the banks of the Amazon.
- Chunaki, the newcomer, is easily accessible from Leticia.
If you decide to stay in a community, you’ll need to adapt to the accommodations, which can sometimes be basic or unconventional.
For instance, at the Ceiba Amazonas hotel in Mocagua, you’ll stay in one of the rooms with a bathroom and terrace, stacked in remarkable wooden towers with tin roofs that are slightly shaky. However, they hold up well, and the beds are comfortable!
In the remote community of San Martin de Amacayacu, I suggest Casa Gregorio.
And if you want to be closer to Leticia, there’s the Tucuchira hotel near Santa Sofia.
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GOING OUT IN LETICIA
My favorite bars in Leticia
A small bar across from Parque Santander, perfect for having a drink at sunset while watching the parakeets fly over the park, with Colombian and Brazilian music in the background.
In Tabatinga, Brazil, there’s a bar where you can watch the sunset over the Amazon River while enjoying a refreshing Caipirinha. It’s a must-see if the weather’s good. You’ll have to come by Tuk-tuk (20 minutes).
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EATING IN LETICIA
My favorite restaurants (and ice cream) in Letica
In an environment that evokes the terrestrial and aquatic world of the Amazon, you can savor traditional Amazonian dishes such as the famous Pirarucú (the largest freshwater-scaled fish), Piranha, and Mojojoy worm (palm worm).
Great for lunch, the finest Pirarucú ceviche and other excellent traditional dishes are served abundantly.
The restaurant serves excellent traditional Amazonian cuisine. The prices are quite high.
The best homemade ice cream in Leticia. You’ll find all the flavors of the Amazon, even the weirdest ones like Mojojoy.
© Tomplanmytrip
How to get to Leticia
And getting around.
Direct flights take 2 hours (Latam or Avianca). You will arrive at Alfredo Vasquez Cobo International Airport, a short distance from the city center. A tourist tax is payable on arrival.
There are boats from Leticia to Manaus (Brazil) and Iquitos (Peru). The trip is lengthy (the boat is slow), so you’ll need to be ready to spend one or more nights on board (hammock).
You can walk around the city since it’s not very large or use tuk-tuks, moto-taxis, and taxis. Public buses are also an option if your destination is within 30 kilometers of the single road out of Leticia.
You’ll primarily travel by boat, whether you’re beginning a jungle trek, visiting indigenous communities, heading to your eco-lodge, exploring natural reserves, or moving from one city to another, such as Puerto Nariño. A public boat leaves three times a day.
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IS LETICIA SAFE?
I’ve never felt in danger.
Leticia has a military base and is a popular tourist spot. I strolled around safely during the day and early evening. Just make sure not to cross the border too late and steer clear of nightclubs in Brazil.
Beware of alleged agencies that approach you in the street to sell their services. If the price seems unrealistically low, the agency is likely illegal (no insurance) and the service will be poor (you’ll just wander around Leticia with a large group).
It’s best to book your Amazon adventure before you arrive in Leticia.
And don’t attempt to explore the jungle alone 😉
© Tomplanmytrip
my last tips
You must be prepared.
Once in Leticia, organizing your jungle adventure at the last minute is complicated. The internet doesn’t work well, there are many informal agencies, too many choices, and few good options.
In short, you risk getting confused and wasting a lot of time. I recommend organizing everything in advance.
Traveling in the Amazon requires good physical condition. It’s hot and humid, and depending on your schedule, you might walk a lot on difficult terrain, especially in the low-water season.
The yellow fever vaccine is strongly recommended—it’s supposedly mandatory, but no one checks. The same is true for protection against hepatitis A, typhoid, and malaria. Personally, I avoided taking malaria medication due to the side effects, which can be very unpleasant during a trek. The decision is yours.
Leticia is in a free trade area governed by agreements between Colombia, Brazil, and Peru. For day trips to Brazil or Peru from Leticia, you won’t need to have your passport stamped. For overnight stays, check the procedures with your agency or eco-lodge. Always keep your passport on you, as you’ll need to show it when entering the reserves.
- Internet in Leticia is extremely slow. Even in upscale hotels, connecting to social media and uploading photos will be challenging. Some hotels lack Wi-Fi entirely, while others only provide it at the reception or charge by the hour.
- Claro is the mobile operator with the best coverage in Leticia.
- The water in Leticia and the rest of the Amazon is not potable.
- There are multiple ATMs in Leticia. For jungle treks, it’s wise to carry enough cash (Colombian pesos) since your bank card might not work. Puerto Nariño doesn’t have any ATMs.
- Leticia is hot and humid. Pack appropriate clothing. If trekking in the jungle, I prefer pants and long sleeves.
- Pack insect repellent.
- Bring comfortable hiking shoes and boots if not provided by your agency or eco-lodge.
- Remember your hat and sunscreen; the sun is strong on the river.
- A power bank and a headlamp
© Tomplanmytrip
ITINERARIES
You can combine Leticia with Puerto Nariño if you travel without an agency.
You can take a public boat from any of the three companies that operate alternately on the river. There are 3 departures daily; confirm the round-trip schedules with your hotel. The trip lasts 2 hours.
Doing a round-trip in one day makes no sense—especially as Puerto Nariño is much nicer than Leticia.
© Tomplanmytrip
Visit Leticia
I’ve spent two trips in the Amazon, giving me plenty of time to get to know Leticia.
Let’s begin by discovering the top activities in and around this city, which serves as a gateway to one of the world’s most captivating regions.
TOM’S TIP
Did you know there are other fascinating places to experience a jungle adventure? You can explore San José Del Guaviare, Los Cerros de Mavecure, Mocoa, and Mitú.
things to do in Leticia, Colombia
Leticia is a gateway between the modern world and the wild.
You don’t come to Leticia for the city itself, but here’s how I utilized my stopovers here during my treks in the Amazon jungle.
Arriving in Leticia the day before to visit the CITY
It’s not an essential stop for your Amazon adventure, but it’s something I enjoyed doing with my parents.
Why?
Flights to Leticia arrive at the earliest in the late morning. This means you only have the afternoon to do something with your agency, which counts as the first day of your package.
I prefer to start off on the right foot, early in the morning. And since the climate in Leticia is particularly stifling, less stress means saving liters of sweat
Here are a few interesting stops in Leticia:
- The Ethnographic Museum: Ideal for learning more about Amazonian culture. This small museum is very well done, and it’s free.
- Parque Santander: It’s a lively place, with all sorts of vehicles and tuk-tuks zipping by and some kiosks selling colorful sweets. But it’s at dusk that you should discover it. At that moment, a flock of parakeets appears out of nowhere in a deafening noise of chirping and wing flapping. As the light fades, they perform a curious ballet on the park’s trees before nestling in the branches and falling silent. Night has fallen. Curtain.
- Have a Caipirinha at Komara: An excellent way to celebrate your arrival in Leticia. Take a 20-minute tuk-tuk ride to Tabatinga, Brazil. This bar, located on the banks of the Amazon, is a popular spot for locals to admire the sunset and have a drink.
TOM’S ADVICE
Make sure your tuk-tuk driver waits for you while you savor your Caipirinha. La Komara does not have network coverage.
Visit the market IN THE MORNING
I loved visiting this lively hall full of colors and scents with my local guide.
We strolled among the stalls filled with fish like the Pirarucú, the largest freshwater fish in the world, and the notorious Piranha with its fierce mouth. An old lady praised the virtues of various dried plants, leaves, and powders. I navigated through mountains of fruits of all shapes and colors, narrowly avoiding a collision with enormous bunches of bananas being carried around.
Exiting the market somewhat groggy, I paused, fascinated, in front of a large basket teeming with fat worms, the famous Mojojoy. I declined the mischievous invitation from my guide to taste one.
Things to do around Leticia
You don’t necessarily need a guide to venture outside of Leticia—but it’s better if you speak some Spanish.
A thirty-kilometer road leaves Leticia and goes deep into the jungle, leading to… nowhere. It’s easy to take a bus (departing from here) or a tuk-tuk. However, the return to Leticia is more complicated, as you have to wait by the roadside for an empty tuk-tuk or bus to pass by.
Mundo Amazónico ecological park
If you want to add a cultural element to your exploration of the Amazonian world, the Mundo Amazónico ecological park offers six educational and entertaining activities (30 – 40 minutes each).
With your native guide, you can sip Amazonian tea, taste dishes prepared with traditional cooking techniques, and listen to legends told by an elderly Huitoto woman. You can also see endemic fish such as the Piranha and Macana and observe the birds.
The trip takes 20 minutes by bus to Km 7.
ADRIEN’S TIP
Mundo Amazónico is a great spot for families with children and provides a deeper understanding of the special relationship Indigenous people maintain with their environment.
Reserva Natural Tanimboca
If you’re into outdoor activities, the Reserva Natural Tanimboca offers zip-lining, tree climbing, and kayaking among beautiful tropical vegetation.
If you opt to stay overnight, treehouses offer a unique way to experience the Amazon rainforest. The journey to the reserve can be made by bus or tuk-tuk (30 minutes—kilometer 11).
Some agencies include this in their packages. Personally, I don’t think it’s interesting enough to justify it. It’s better to head out on an adventure along the Amazon River and sleep in a more remote eco-lodge.
Get away from Leticia and enjoy the adventure
As you can see, staying in Leticia doesn’t make much sense. If you want to see animals, wake up on the banks of the Amazon in a beautiful eco-lodge, and share in the daily life of local communities, you’ll need to venture deeper into the jungle.
ADRIEN’S TIP
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STAYING IN AN ECOLODGE
This is the most practical (and comfortable) option.
How to choose correctly
With the growing number of eco-lodges around Leticia, making the right choice is essential. Here’s what I look for in this type of accommodation:
The further the better
The eco-lodge must be surrounded by thick vegetation, far from any human activity. I want to be lulled (or frightened) by the sounds of the jungle at night and to see a variety of birds from the balcony in the morning.
The more secluded, the better; some eco-lodges near Leticia offer day trips for visitors, which makes them a bit too crowded for me.
transportation
It should provide round-trip transportation between the eco-lodge and Leticia. If you choose to stay in an eco-lodge, it’s precisely to avoid the hassle. It’s nice to have someone pick you up at the hotel or airport and take you to the Leticia port to catch a boat (private or public).
Communication
Good communication is also essential. However, this is often not the case in the Amazon. This is often due to poor Internet signal quality. But sometimes, it’s also due to poor organization. If the eco-lodge takes 4 to 5 days to respond, and you have to follow up frequently, the best thing to do is move on.
ALL INCLUDED
An all-inclusive stay is essential. The main appeal of an eco-lodge, in my opinion, is its flexibility. Therefore, the eco-lodge should provide a private guide who can facilitate any activity at any time. This allows you to change your schedule if the weather is bad or if you’re feeling tired.
ADRIEN’S TIP
The most accessible eco-lodges are located on the banks of the Amazon River between Leticia and Puerto Nariño. On the Peruvian side, it’s the flooded jungle; on the Colombian side, it’s the Tierra Firme jungle (never flooded).
how does it go?
Adrien and I stayed at this ecolodge for four days (which, by the way, is far too short). And we were not disappointed.
After three hours on a private boat through the flooded jungle, we arrived at this impressive wooden eco-lodge built on the banks of one of the Amazon River branches. In the dry season, the water recedes for dozens of meters, revealing stretches of white sand beaches.
We made a brief stop at our cabaña (there’s also a dormitory and hammocks for a more economical stay) to drop off our bags, and then we were introduced to our local guide.
Everything is included (even the evening caipirinhas). Our guide handed us a huge catalog with over 30 activities. All we had to do was choose. On the agenda:
- Night walk to see glowing mushrooms—like Avatar—and spot caimans.
- Jungle trek to observe wildlife, followed by setting up camp (hammock) for the night. Our guide prepared a delicious fish over the fire, and we drank caipirinhas to keep the mosquitoes away. A former member of the Foreign Legion gave me this advice. Having tried it, I can guarantee it doesn’t work. But at least you don’t feel them biting.
- Kayak excursion in the flooded jungle. I did it twice because it’s my favorite, especially early in the morning. Everything is silent except for the birds’ whistles. You weave between vines under a vast green canopy, and suddenly you emerge into a lagoon where the sky reflects in the water. You then take out your homemade fishing rod and try to catch piranhas with pieces of chicken. In short, pure bliss.
TOM’S TIP
When camping in the jungle, always put your boots on two sticks next to your hammock to prevent unwanted guests in the morning. And give them a shake before putting them on!
staying in an indigenous community
The accommodations are usually more basic than in eco-lodges, and the organization can be a bit more confusing; you need to take the boat alone to get there, speak Spanish, join other travelers for daily activities, and experience a slightly less personalized service.
On the other hand, the prices are more affordable, and I adore the atmosphere of these communities. You can easily walk around and observe the locals’ daily life.
During my trek in the Amazon, I stayed in two communities, Mocagua and San Martin.
Mocagua, a charming little community
Mocagua is a lovely small community on the banks of the Amazon River (1.5 hours from Leticia). With its flower-lined cobblestone streets and tranquil atmosphere, it’s a great base for jungle hikes.
Mocagua is known for its commitment to sustainable tourism and animal protection. There is a monkey rehabilitation and reintegration center, the Fundación Maikuchiga.
Be sure to visit the small ethnographic museum. It houses an interesting collection of everyday objects from the past, and you’ll benefit from the explanations of the owner, who is trying to preserve the Tikuna culture.
I stayed at Ceiba Amazonas, with its lookout tower where you can watch the birds wake up in a stunning sunrise. Vicki, at Wikungo on the riverbank, serves good beers and cooks delicious, hearty traditional dishes.
ADRIEN’S TIP
Did you know that the clans of indigenous communities are named after land or air animals? Our guide was a Tikuna from the Garza clan (heron). Unions between clans from the same environment are not allowed. It’s a sensible way to avoid inbreeding.
San Martin de Amacayacu, a unique experience
The immersion started on the very first night. There’s no electricity and no running water at Ronaldo’s, where we were staying. By the light of my phone, I walked down the main street of the village and carefully descended a steep path to the Amacayacu River. I bathed in complete darkness next to locals washing their dishes and clothes, taking great care to hold onto the dock to avoid being caught by the current. Believe me, this unusual bath is very welcome after a day in the humid forest!
Jesus, my Tikuna guide, was with me throughout my stay. Together, we explored the village with its simple wooden houses and palm-thatched roofs, attended the school celebration, and watched the children parade in their immaculate uniforms. In the shade of the immense Maloca, I listened to him explain the function of this community house and the stories of his people.
I joined the locals to participate in a Minga, learned to weave the huge palm leaves that would cover the roof of a kitchen, and went to cut wood in the forest. I was rewarded with a strange brew made from fermented Yuka called Chicha.
TOM’S STORY
A Minga is a communal labor effort where villagers come together to assist one of their members in completing a construction or farming project.
A village woman invited me to her home to teach me how to weave bracelets and paint on palm fiber with vegetable paints.
On the last evening, after bathing in the river and enjoying a traditional dinner at Ronaldo’s, Jesus took me to his home. It was a simple wooden house without furniture and barely illuminated. Sitting on one of the three mismatched chairs, Jesus’ wife told me the story of Joy and Hipi and shared Tikuna legends about the birth of the sun and the moon.
Arrange a jungle trip with a local agency
There are probably a hundred local agencies in Leticia, most of which are illegal (meaning they have no insurance in case of problems) and offer rather mediocre services.
But don’t worry, there are some very good ones. You just need to take the time to choose carefully. Here are a few tips:
- Don’t rely solely on price. You will always find someone in Leticia offering the cheapest excursion. However, you will likely be with a large number of tourists, and your experiences may be quite ordinary.
- Book in advance. Do research online to compare agencies from home. Once in Leticia, it will be much more complicated.
- Opt for a private tour rather than a group tour. This is especially true if you’re looking for adventure, as group tours are designed to suit everyone.
The main advantage of an agency is that it allows you to see more places. With my guide, we spent a night in the Marasha Reserve, then camped in the jungle before discovering two indigenous communities (Mocagua and San Martin).
On the other hand, this also means you will spend a lot more time traveling from one place to another. You will be more tired and have less time to enjoy each location. Moreover, you’ll have to hope for good weather since you’ll be following a schedule prearranged with the agency.
In summary, each option has its pros and cons. It’s up to you to weigh them.
ADRIEN’S TIP
For solo travelers, the dormitory option at this eco-lodge is unbeatable if you’re looking to have a private guide.
How to get to Leticia
There are no fifty ways to get to Leticia.
Getting by plan from Bogota
The only way to Leticia from Colombia is by plane.
There are only direct flights from Bogotá (2 hours). You will land at Leticia’s international airport, Alfredo Vásquez Cobo, which is just a few minutes from the city center.
Airline companies are Latam and Avianca.
Getting by boat from Manaus et Iquitos
You can arrive in Leticia by boat if you’re coming from Manaus (Brazil) or Iquitos (Peru). However, you will need to have your passport stamped if you plan to continue your journey through Colombia.
Getting around Leticia
Tuk-tuk and boat are the most common means of transport in Leticia.
Tuk-tuk, taxis and public buses
Tuktuks are a common sight in Leticia, perfect for city travel or visiting places like Tabatinga for a Caipi.
There’s a single road out of Leticia that’s less than 30 km long. To visit tourist areas, you can take a taxi or use the public buses. Departures are frequent from Parque Orellana.
BOATS LEAVING FROM LETICIA
To get from Leticia to Puerto Nariño (2h), you can take public boats at an affordable price. There are only 3 departures daily, and three boat companies rotate every day. The boats leave from Isla de la Fantasia.
You can also stop along the way to visit Indigenous communities.
TOM’S TIP
Many locals take the public boats every day, so it’s wise to book in advance (ask your agency or hotel). If you don’t, you might need to spend an extra night in Leticia.
Favorite experiences in leticia, Colombia
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Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, dormitory option 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Immerse yourself for a few days in the atmosphere that reigns in the lung of humanity.
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Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, comfort option 4d
Colombia
4 Days
1 place
Stay in the world's largest forest and discover its wonders and diversity.
View this tour
Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, dormitory option 5d
Colombia
5 Days
1 place
Immerse yourself for a few days in the atmosphere that reigns in the lung of humanity.
View this tour
Leticia: the Amazon from a jungle ecolodge, comfort option 5d
Colombia
5 Days
1 place
Stay in the world's largest forest and discover its wonders and diversity.
View this tour
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