Travel Guide
Barichara
Colombia
Are you craving an unforgettable stay that offers a unique combo of immersion in local life, discovering traditions, and tranquil or sporty adventures in a sumptuous environment?
Follow me, I’ll take you to Barichara where I recently spent a month. Through my experiences, feelings, and favorite moments, you’ll know how to organize your days to enjoy its magic.
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The Essentials About Barichara, Colombia
To make good decisions quickly and easily.
Overview
A colonial gem in a magnificent setting.
Barichara is located in the department of Santander, in the Andean region in the northeast of Colombia, at an altitude of 1300 m.
It is located about 120 km south of Bucaramanga, the capital of Santander (3 to 4 hours by car) and nearly 350 km from Bogota, the capital of Colombia.
Barichara is 23 km from San Gil, a hotspot for rafting in Colombia.
Its inhabitants are traditionally called the “patiamarillos” (yellow feet) because of the ocher color of the soil in Barichara.
With its traditional houses with lime walls and steep streets with huge ocher cobblestones, Barichara is a jewel of colonial architecture, beautifully preserved and harmonious. One of the most beautiful colonial villages in Colombia.
Perched on a slope overlooking the deep Suarez canyon, the village offers dizzying viewpoints, unforgettable sunsets, and superb hikes in the canyon.
For athletes, Barichara is close to renowned spots for extreme sports (Rafting in San Gil or paragliding over the Chicamocha Canyon).
The village perpetuates a very lively tradition of ancient craftsmanship (pottery, basketry, weaving) that values natural resources.
There are very good restaurants offering the traditional dishes of Santander, as well as an inventive and tasty cuisine.
Its aesthetic and setting create a most romantic atmosphere, perfect for a getaway for two, and its tranquility also makes it an ideal destination for families.
The climate in Barichara is dry all year round (64°F to 75°F). The days can be warm, but a pleasant breeze rises in the evening. Bring a sweater if you get cold easily.
Be aware that during the dry season (January-March), some hotels experience issues with water supply. In the rainy season, nature is greener, which is nicer for walking. It’s also best to avoid the high season (December 20 – January 15 and Holy Week) which attracts a lot of people.
In January, Barichara pays tribute to the Guane culture, the Emerfest celebrates electro music in February, and in September, Festiver honors green cinema with films addressing environmental themes. More traditional San Lorenzo, the village’s patron, is celebrated on August 10th.
In April, at the start of the heavy rains, you might witness a curious spectacle: the massive swarming of hormigas culonas. Be aware, it only lasts one day!
There are so many things to do in Barichara that I recommend staying between 5 and 7 days.
You can consider spending 1 or 2 nights in the surrounding countryside to recharge.
One thing is certain, don’t come for just 2 nights. Barichara is rather off the beaten path and you’ll be making a detour to include it. So if you decide to come, you might as well make the most of it.
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What to do in BARICHARA
In Barichara, take it easy.
Settle on a bench in the shade of the large trees in the main park or at a café terrace near the imposing cathedral and watch the village life. Climb up to the cemetery square and wander among the ochre sandstone graves adorned with sculpted objects in stone evoking the deceased.
Stroll through the streets with Adriana or Mikael, two great local guides we know. They will tailor the tour to your desires and tell you the secrets and anecdotes of the village, like that of El alcade de Santa Barbara or the mysterious apparition of the virgin.
Enter the courtyard of an incredible colonial building, climb to the top of the village along a street lined with majestic cacti, admire the breathtaking view over the rooftops and take a discreet peek into a house through a slightly open shutter.
Barichara also has small shops, craft workshops, a hidden garden behind old walls where you can have a coffee, a restaurant each night different to delight your taste buds.
I loved diving into ancient craftsmanship passed down by passionate artisans.
With Bernardita, I discovered Guane ceramics, from the stone to the finished pottery. Diego opened his wickerwork workshop to me, using bejuco, a local vine, and at El Taller de Papel, I transformed fique (agave) into paper with a women’s collective.
Carlos took me to the family coffee farm and told me about their reforestation project. At Reinaldo’s, I discovered the tobacco culture with Reinaldo, from seed selection to the cigarillo.
In the village, I painted with different soils from the canyon at De la tierra casa taller, tasted honey at the Santuario de Abejas, with Diana, I discovered the Invisible Garden, a place for artists’ exhibition, and strolled through the beautiful patio of the Fundación Escuella Taller amidst artisan workshops.
Finally, goat cheese lovers can visit an artisanal farm in the countryside.
At the entrance of the village, it’s impossible to miss the strange sculpture of a giant ant, the famous Hormiga culona (big-bottomed ant), the emblem of Barichara.
This big ant is the subject of a single annual harvest during an impressive swarming and is enjoyed as a delicacy! Obviously, it’s better to know how to cook it 😉
In the beautiful house of Margarita, a space managed by a collective of small entrepreneurs and local producers, you can learn all her little cooking secrets during a workshop followed by a tasting.
I tried the half-cooked ants (not great, weird shrimp taste) then well-cooked, and there, it becomes not bad at all!
From Barichara you can venture outside the village for a peaceful walk.
At the top of the village, behind the Santa Barbara church, a path leads to the Bioparque. Access is free, push open a gate and find yourself among local species. The place is peaceful and offers a great view of the canyon.
If you are a bit more adventurous, descend into the canyon via the Camino Real de Guane. Over 7 kilometers, the ancient paved path crosses beautiful landscapes with magnificent views of the canyon, before arriving at Guane, a peaceful little village, a sort of miniature Barichara. You can return on foot, by bus, or by tuktuk.
Another nice hike through the pastures leads to Cabrera, a typical village, via the Camino Real de Cabrera. – About 15 kilometers round trip.
During the day the sun is strong, leave early in the morning.
Barichara’s location above the Suarez Canyon offers wonderful panoramas, stunning at any time of the day and magical at sunset.
One of the most famous is the Salto del Mico, at the top of the village towards Guane. The Mirador offers an extraordinary view of the canyon – dizzying! If you’re not afraid of heights, sit on the rocky spur above the void. Be careful though, the site is not protected.
At the top of the Bioparque, the view is also fantastic and the site exudes a slightly mysterious atmosphere with its stone rosette drawn on the ochre earth. Not far away, you can sit on a bench in the shade of a tree and admire the landscape—I loved reading my Garcia Marquez novel there 😉
The terrace of Independencia “cocina y sazón” is also a great spot to admire the landscape while sipping a good cocktail at sunset.
© Tomplanmytrip
The surroundings of Barichara
Trek, swimming, and adrenaline.
If you are self-sufficient, you can set out for a multi-day trek in the canyon.
The most classic route connects Barichara to Los Santos via Villanueva and Jordán (31 km), and it can also be done in the other direction. It requires good physical condition, as the elevation gain can be quite significant. By organizing your transportation, you can do just a part of it.
Expect incredible landscapes and amazing trees such as the Barrigón. The path follows the Caminos Reales, pre-Columbian roads restored in the 19th century by Lenkerge, a German merchant, to facilitate communication routes.
You will find accommodations along the way and the signage is adequate. Confirm with a local when in doubt about a section. It’s better to manage in Spanish, download the route on an online map, and be accustomed to hiking.
The simplest option is to go with a local guide.
Be careful, it will be very hot. Bring enough water and leave as early as possible.
A trek leads from San Vincente to Guane via Zapatoca and La Fuente. Go through an agency, the logistics are more complicated.
Fans of strong sensations will not be left out.
23 km from Barichara, San Gil is renowned for its perfect rivers for rafting through stunning landscapes.
Beginners and families will enjoy the Rio Fonce (classes 2/3 – 9 km) and more adventurous spirits can tackle the wild waters of the Rio Suarez (classes 4/5 – 15 km).
If you have more time, venture onto the Rio Chicamocha at the bottom of one of the world’s most profound canyons (Classes 3/4 – 15 km – 7 hours).
If you prefer mountain biking, go down into the Chicamocha Canyon with an experienced guide.
At Parque Extremo El Peñón Guane adrenaline junkies can take a 140 m jump in bungee; it’s the highest in South America.
Finally, if you dream of flying over the Canyon de Chicamocha, take off in a paraglider with experienced instructors.
From Barichara take a taxi (1h) to the small town of Curití or a bus from San Gil.
Upon arrival, take a tuk-tuk to Pescaderito, a series of natural pools carved into the riverbed accessible by a lovely trail.
Each pozo has its own atmosphere: Zambita, the closest, is cute, Los Enamorados is more intimate, Zamba is the deepest but it’s crowded. The water at El diablo, is a magnificent emerald green. My favorite is El Paraiso, the last one – wide, with clear water and not many people. It takes about 45 minutes to go from the first pozo to the last.
Back in the village by tuk-tuk, have lunch at El Trinitario, I loved it. A nice local atmosphere, a good and hearty menu del día, and delicious ribs.
Before leaving, visit the Ecofibras workshop next to Trinitario. A quick and well-designed tour will teach you all about weaving from fique and the shop is super pretty.
This wonder is hidden in the Juan Curi Ecological Park, about 1 hour by car south of Barichara.
A marked trail gently climbs (30 minutes) to a magnificent waterfall with an 80 m drop gushing from the lush vegetation and plunging into a small pool seemingly carved with a compass into the rock. Take a dip, the atmosphere is idyllic. Perfect for a family hike.
If you are brave, take the path that climbs more steeply. Ropes will help you in the difficult sections. The trail opens up to an enchanted valley where a river fed by the Salto Juan Curi, an impressive waterfall over 130 m with several tiers, meanders. You can swim in the many water holes.
The more daring can rappel down the two waterfalls. In high season, there are crowds.
Coming from Bucaramanga, about 1 hour and 30 minutes before arriving at Barichara, you can stop at Chicamocha National Park (or Parque Panachi).
This amusement park stands out a bit in such a magnificent landscape. Its main interest lies in its location, which offers spectacular views of the canyon, especially from the cable car that connects to Mesa de Los Santos on the other side of the canyon (20 minutes).
The park offers fun activities, there are knick-knack shops, restaurants, and viewpoints. There is notably a huge and amazing monument over the void in tribute to the Santanderians.
An idea for an outing to keep children occupied, but the entrance and activities are expensive.
© Tomplanmytrip
Where to Stay in Barichara
A nice choice for all budgets.
200 m from the main park on a quiet street, Casa Hercilia is a lovely colonial house with 6 spacious rooms (single, double, or triple). The welcome is friendly, the common areas are warm, and the lovely patio with a pool is great for enjoying a good coffee with a delicious cake.
On a quiet street at the top of the village, Hospedaje Aquí estoy bien is a modest hotel with a family atmosphere. Rooms are simple but comfortable (up to 4 people), with welcoming social spaces, attentive hosts, and beautiful views of the surrounding nature and the Suarez Canyon.
Close to the center of Barichara, Casa Canela is a beautiful traditional house open to a lovely intimate patio with a pool. The colorful decor creates a very cozy atmosphere. The rooms (up to 3 people) are comfortable, some have a shared bathroom. The kitchen is available in the evening.
Masaya Collection Achiotte is a peaceful building near the main Park. The decor is a bit simple, but I loved the patio with pool and garden. Double or family rooms, with a special mention for the Junior Suite and its outdoor shower.
Tierra Roja by MH is a recent establishment made with traditional materials located on the outskirts of the village (800 m from the center) in an expanding area. Pleasant outdoor spaces, a choice of rooms (double to family), and a welcoming staff.
On two floors Casa Guatí at the top of the village, offers a superb view of Barichara. The 9 rooms are modern, pleasant, and bright, some with terrace. An infinity pool, a pleasant social area, a spa, and attentive staff. Only downside: some motorcycle noise from the nearby sloping street.
Casa Yahri is located in one of my favorite corners of Barichara. The nature, the calm, charming houses, and a beautiful view as a bonus.
A refined decoration, a small pool to cool off, comfortable outdoor spaces with views of the countryside and the village, just 4 charming and spacious rooms, and impeccable service, the guarantee of a cozy stay.
Just as intimate, Casa Barichara Boutique is at the top of Barichara near the peaceful Santa Barbara square. A fantastic view of the village and surroundings, elegant decor, soft colors, a beautiful pool amidst orange trees, welcoming staff, few rooms, all spacious, a haven of peace.
Barichara is home to beautiful villas for rent for a stay with family or friends. Truly hidden and comfortable little paradises.
We know some of these gems – contact us and we’ll help you choose!
Choosing the countryside is a good idea if you want to combine your stay in Barichara with 2 or 3 nights in the surrounding nature.
10 minutes by car from the village, Katja and Jorge warmly welcome you to the Finca San Pedro Barichara, a traditional farm. Two beautiful rooms, delicate decoration, a superb view of the canyon, a large pool, and Katja is a wonderful cook!
15 minutes away by tuk-tuk from Barichara, Finca Buenavista offers 3 beautiful rooms with an amazing outdoor shower. Charming multilingual hosts. A garden of cacti and agaves, simple yet nice decoration, and the possibility to eat on-site if you notify in advance. Its highlight, a pool with a stunning view.
20 minutes from Barichara, Finca San Vicente B&B is an authentic farm with Baraheque walls. Simple but functional rooms, two jacuzzis, attentive multilingual hosts organizing tours. Its charm: nestled in the heart of lush vegetation.
Where to Eat in Barichara
Plenty of choices and flavors.
Just a stone’s throw from the main park, at Obleas Floridablanca, try an Oblea, a traditional treat made of 2 large thin and round wafer cookies, filled. My favorite is a classic: queso + arequipe + dulce de mora and whipped cream.
For a delicious cake go to Milana in the upper part of the village. We celebrated my father’s birthday on the tree-lined terrace with a very fine chocolate cake – an unforgettable memory. Plus, the setting is great.
In a peaceful traditional house, Flor de León offers tiramisu and other sweet treats. I loved their cheesecake and their pastries are super good!
Very close to the main park, Panaderia Barichara offers several types of fresh and toasted breads with different flavors including garlic, perfect for appetizers.
Finally, 20 meters from the main park, Avocatto Barichara makes the best Italian ice cream in the village. Plenty of flavors and lovely ice cream makers.
At El Compa, in a no-frills setting, you will have a good and hearty menu del día for a very good price. Arrive early, there’s quickly a line on the sidewalk 😉
La Peñita & Bachue, a tiny restaurant, serves delicious traditional dishes. Their specialty is cabrito (young goat) raised on their farm near the village – The curry one is great. Hearty and excellent, however, the service is super slow.
For a good and big sandwich, go to Pepafresa. A very good homemade bread and a large selection of fresh fruit juices. I loved my “Piña+naranja”, all for a very reasonable price.
Finally, it’s at Kactus Gastro Bar, at the foot of the cathedral that I had the best menu of the day. Plenty of choices, well-filled plates, efficient service, and a good price.
I fell in love with the brunch at Milana. A three-course menu, refined and tasty, crafted by a young creative chef who loves local products. I loved it so much that I went twice! The menu changes at the beginning of the month. The price is well deserved.
It was in the patio of Gringo Mike that I had the best burgers – the onion rings are a delight. The menu also offers Mexican dishes and salads. Dim ambiance, quick service, and excellent value for money.
The inventive cuisine at Elvia works with local products in an original and gourmet way. Ambiance, service, presentation, everything is delicate. The price is a bit expensive but it’s an excellent place to celebrate an event.
Finally, Sierra offers beautiful Japanese-Colombian fusion cuisine in the lovely patio of a traditional house. Romantic ambiance and professional service. Save room for dessert, the original “Oops I dropped the dessert” is amazing.
© Tomplanmytrip
Where to Grab a Drink in Barichara
Plenty of great spots for a drink.
At Gringo Mike, I had an amazing Margarita. Perfect to whet your appetite for a good burger.
To end an evening in a cool and dimly lit atmosphere with good music and original decor, I recommend ¡Vas Bien!, a discreet pub in a traditional house. Friendly servers and “signature” cocktails with unique flavors.
I really enjoyed chatting with Wilson, the owner of Café Ritual while sipping a good coffee prepared with the Chemex method. A friendly and talkative coffee enthusiast who does his own roasting. Wilson has rather unpredictable opening hours.
The large and very beautiful patio of the Fundacion Escuela Taller Barichara lined with artisan workshops is a super pleasant and peaceful place to enjoy a good coffee.
Finally, I loved drinking my coffee in the cabin perched in a tree in the super cute and intimate garden of El Angel amidst a jumble of old objects and vintage furniture.
The people of Barichara love to gather at the terrace of El Bodegón de Toñita and its neighbor Kactus, at the foot of the beautiful cathedral, to have a drink. The lively atmosphere is very pleasant for relaxing at the end of the day and enjoying the evening breeze.
Accessible from the square but more intimate, Garabato offers beers at a very good price in its lovely patio.
To have a drink while admiring the impressive Suarez canyon, there’s nothing better than sitting on the terrace of Independencia “cocina y sazón” at the very top of the village.
I loved going there to admire the sunset and they serve good and generous cocktails for a reasonable price.
© Tomplanmytrip
Getting to Barichara
All roads lead to Barichara.
San Gil has a small airport, Los Pozos, located north of the city about twenty minutes by car from downtown.
The airline Satena has just opened a Medellín – San Gil route.
Nativ Air also charters a small 6-seater plane from Bogota, the flight takes 1 hour.
Once in San Gil, you will need to take a taxi to reach Barichara, which is 23 kilometers away.
If you choose to travel by bus, you will arrive at the San Gil Terminal on the outskirts of the city (2.5 km). To get to Barichara, you will need to take another bus that departs from the Terminalito in the center of San Gil. Departures are frequent, and the journey takes about 45 minutes.
You can reach Barichara from Bucaramanga and its airport offering connections from Bogota or, as I did, from Medellín (1-hour flight with Avianca). From there, take a private transport that will take you to Barichara via a very beautiful road with stunning viewpoints.
You can also take a bus that leaves from the airport terminal. Check the schedules, there are 1 or 2 direct per day to Barichara, the others stop in San Gil.
During the week there are a lot of trucks on the road, it’s a bit stressful and it lengthens the trip. I recommend traveling like I did on a Sunday, it took me 3 hours and 30 minutes.
Zapatoca is a small town located on the other bank of the Suarez Canyon. From there, you can only cover the 60 kilometers that separate it from Barichara by private transport. The road descends into the canyon to cross it before climbing back up. Finally, it is largely a rough path, so be patient and allow 3.5 hours for the journey 😉 However, you will see beautiful scenery.
You can reach Zapatoca from Bucaramanga via a road that also passes through beautiful landscapes.
If you are a trekking enthusiast, you can take the Lengerke trails (caminos reales) to reach Barichara in several days from Los Santos via Jordan and Villanueva or by following the trek that starts from San Vincente de Chucuri and passes through Zapatoca and La Fuente.
© Tomplanmytrip
GETTING AROUND in Barichara
Easy and full of options.
I loved getting around on foot in Barichara, taking the time to stroll. In my opinion, it’s the best way to feel the village’s atmosphere and capture wonderful memories with a camera.
It’s very easy to find your way around thanks to the grid layout of the village with carreras and calles. However, most of the streets are sloped, and some are very steep. So it’s better to have strong legs or take a tuk-tuk!
At the Main Park, you’ll find plenty of tuktuks parked with smiling drivers offering their services. It’s perfect for going up to the top of the village if you don’t feel like walking or for getting around the surroundings of the village.
I recommend taking the phone number of your favorite driver, he will become your private tuktuk 😉
The Barichara bus terminal is located on the Main Park, and it is very busy. From there you can reach many nearby villages.
Most taxis are based in San Gil.
If you were happy with the services of one of them, keep their contact information for your other trips.
I like to use private transport for somewhat long trips. You save time and travel in a well-maintained and comfortable vehicle.
Moreover, it becomes financially interesting when traveling with family or friends.
We know an excellent option.
© Tomplanmytrip
Safety in Barichara
Barichara and its surroundings are super tranquil. The atmosphere is serene in the lively streets as well as in the less frequented neighborhoods. The Patiamarillos are discreet people who open up when you start talking to them.
I wandered the village far and wide and felt good there at all hours of the day and night.
© Tomplanmytrip
Some Tips
To enjoy yourself even more.
In the middle of the day, the sun beats down hard in Barichara. Don’t forget your hat and sunscreen. I recommend planning your activities early in the morning, especially if you’re going trekking in the canyon.
Also remember to stay hydrated.
On Tuesday, many shops, restaurants, and sites, like the cemetery, are closed in Barichara. Plan your stay accordingly.
It might be a good day to go hiking.
Village of artisans it is easy to find cool souvenirs in Barichara. I love the shop Tienda Ancestral near the main square that only sells pieces made by local artisans.
I fell in love with the traditional ceramics with its rustic and timeless character, widely used in many restaurants. Dishes or decorative objects.
A package of coffee is also an excellent idea. Choose it after having a tasting, you can talk about it when you get back 😉 I buy it freshly ground or better in beans, to keep its aroma as long as possible.
In Barichara you will notice that many locals, especially the elderly, wear curious espadrilles open at the back with black embroidered patterns on top, the alpargatas. Shops sell more modern versions. I fell in love with a pair in a beautiful mustard yellow.
© Tomplanmytrip
My Favorite Moments In Barichara
I have selected for you my 7 highlights in Barichara. Believe me, the choice was not so easy to make because you never get bored in this charming village.
TOM’S ADVICE
Want to know other colonial villages? I love Jericó, Villa de Leyva and Jardín.
1: Cook the Big-Butt Ants with a Local
I cross the patio to discover this dish that the Patiamarillos keep telling me about.
Smiling broadly, Margarita awaits me behind her stove in an old house bathed in light and wide open to a lush patio. I am immediately transported into the world of “One Hundred Years of Solitude” by Garcia Marquez.
In a soft voice, Margarita tells us the story of the ant that dates back to Guane traditions, how the initiated jealously guard the anthills and the fervor that grips the Patiamarillos when the impressive annual swarming occurs.
The precious ants are harvested and then frozen.
On the large table, Margarita places a handful of frozen ants in front of each of us and shows us how to remove the head and wings.
Once this task is completed, she sautés the ants in a clay dish, and we taste several stages of cooking. Honestly, the half-raw is not my favorite 😉
Margarita entrusts me with the responsibility of watching the end of the ants’ cooking and grills slices of corn bread in coconut oil. She melts cheese mixed with leaves of Hoja Santa picked from the garden.
A secret blend of spices on the cooked ants and everyone crunches a slice of golden bread covered with leaves, melted cheese, and a handful of ants.
It reminds me of the taste of grilled gray shrimp. Honestly, these little creatures are good!
A great experience and a beautiful encounter.
2: A night at the bottom of the Chicamocha canyon
6:00 AM, a private transport takes us to Alto de Marta near Villanueva.
7:00 AM we leave. After 30 minutes we encounter the Camino Real. The descent into the canyon really begins. The views are magnificent, the howler monkeys scream from the bottom of the canyon.
The further we descend, the more arid the vegetation becomes. Around 10 AM we encounter the first cacti, my father marvels at the English-headed Cactus. The redder earth reflects the more intense heat, the panorama is striking. We’re baking!
After 3 hours we cross a valley of cacti before reaching a trail. At 11:30 AM, we finally arrive at our hotel, Los Trinitarios, 500 m from Jordán.
I enjoy my beer and the menu del día. It’s super hot. I doze on my bed under a tin roof in the breeze of noisy fans, before cooling off in the pool, a luxury.
End of the day, we go to Jordán. The streets are deserted, a real ghost town. We eat an empanada at La Mojita, the only bar in the village near the beautiful Lenkerge bridge over the river. The friendly owner takes me on a motorcycle to scout the route for the next day.
At 8 PM I fall like a rock.
5:45 AM the next day – we hit the road again, heading towards Aratoca.
The trail follows the Chicamocha river. My father is thrilled, he encounters his first Barigón, an endemic tree with a swollen trunk at the base.
Following the advice of the bar owner, we leave the trail to climb through the vegetation to Finca Caracoli of Benito and Nieve, tobacco farmers.
7:40 AM, Nieve invites us to take a break in front of her house.
After 6 hours on a trail with a steep incline (9 km – 900 m), we arrive at Aratoca, a peaceful town with its parque in front of the church. The noon bus to Barichara has just left, we have a drink while waiting for the taxi that takes us back to Barichara (1h30).
A demanding trek but incredible landscapes.
Moment 3: Discovering Guane
6:15 AM, taking advantage of the coolness, we take the Camino Real which starts from the top of the village to go to Guane.
The ancient paved path gently descends over 7 kilometers, passing through beautiful and varied landscapes – bucolic paths, stone walls, and plant-covered areas. We take the time to admire the views of the Suarez canyon and observe many birds.
We arrive at Guane, a charming little village with lime walls and cobblestone streets. After a small breakfast at Café Artesanal Nacimiento on the square, we visit the Paleontological and Archaeological Museum just across. A superb collection of fossils and the mummy of a young girl. We have access to an audio guide in our language.
We go to the viewpoint 300 m from the square to admire an incredible view of the canyon and have a beer at the viewpoint bar next door. A super nice place with a crazy panorama.
Back at the square, I share an artisanal ice cream with Aleja that doesn’t leave an unforgettable memory. We buy a bottle of Sabajon, a traditional alcoholic drink, at the shop that holds the original recipe, over here.
A tour of the square, a visit to the church, and we get into a tuktuk to return to Barichara while my parents catch the bus that leaves every 30 minutes.
An easy hike and a charming village.
4: The charm of Barichara at the end of the day and in the evening
I love enjoying Barichara at the end of the day when the breeze picks up. Strolling through the streets, entering the shops, artisan workshops, exploring the peaceful outlying neighborhoods. Capturing a colorful door, a cat asleep on a windowsill.
I particularly like the charm of the old hospital square with its old-fashioned and nostalgic feel. I sit on the bench under a large tree covered with barba de viejos swaying in the wind.
I take a walk in the quiet little bookstore on the corner of the main square and linger in the patio of the Casa de la Cultura next door, among works by local artists and old objects.
I sit in the Main Park, enjoying the coolness of the tall trees before mingling with the locals for a drink on the terrace of one of the cafes near the cathedral.
Or I go up to the top of the village to admire the sunset from a viewpoint or on the terrace of Independencia Cocina y Sazón while sipping a margarita.
5: Paragliding over the canyon
*I’ll hand the keyboard over to my Madre.*
7:50 AM – at the Main Park I take the bus to San Gil which drops me off 45 minutes later at the Terminalito in the city center. A van is waiting for me. On the way, it picks up two other young people and we are off to the paragliding site, an hour’s drive from there.
An instructor teaches us the safety rules and explains how the flight will go, nothing that seems too complicated 😉
20 minutes later I’m at the takeoff site at the edge of the impressive Chicamocha canyon, harnessed with Laura, my instructor.
We start running and throw ourselves into the void. Laura helps me to settle into the seat and there I am, flying! An extraordinary sensation of freedom and fragility at the same time.
For 25 minutes, at the mercy of the winds and Laura’s skill, I fly over the river that winds far below, birds fly alongside us. The landscape is breathtaking. Laura points out a village, a peak.
Feeling confident, she offers me a little shot of adrenaline. Playing with the sail, we start swaying from right to left, spinning – thrilling!
I’ve lost track of time, we have to return to earth. Legs well raised, I let myself land gently on the site from which we took off.
Around 1 PM I am back in Barichara.
A dream fulfilled. Unforgettable.
6: Alfania’s Beautiful Project
8:40 AM – a tuktuk takes me in 10 minutes to Alfania, a family coffee finca, where Carlos awaits us.
Crossing the plantation, the friendly Carlos introduces us to the varieties of beans and their reforestation project born when his mom Margarita fell in love with a forest and decided to buy it. Alfania is above all an experimental adventure based on the desire to find a symbiosis between different species, including coffee.
At the bottom of the property, we discover a forest of Caracoli. I immediately understand why these majestic trees fascinated Margarita. Before heading back up, we taste Guarapo, a local drink made from sugarcane juice.
We leave the farm in a jeep for the family property, gorgeous. Rustic and elegant furniture and a wonderful flowered garden where a snack awaits us. We savor the coffee from the plantation accompanied by homemade arepas and delicious goat cheeses, while conversing about a thousand subjects.
We visit the old stables and the super modern coffee processing facility, from the depulper to the shop.
We return to Barichara in a tuktuk with Carlos who takes us to the patio of a village house to drink Guarapo and Chicha, another traditional drink, among regulars with bright eyes, in a jumble of makeshift vats and stills. Unusual.
A deeply human adventure that makes you think.
7: How to Make a Good Cigar
10:00 AM – A tuktuk picks us up to take us to a tobacco finca 15 minutes from Barichara.
Reinaldo, the owner of the family farm, awaits us at a beautiful property overlooking the surrounding countryside.
After telling us about the glory and decline of Colombian tobacco and presenting the two varieties grown on the farm, Reinaldo, very educational, explains in detail each step of the tobacco transformation process. I even try my hand at planting the plants, which requires quite a bit of skill.
I quickly realize how long and meticulous this work is, no less than 16 months from seed selection to obtaining the famous cigarillos.
When at the end of the process, I watch Reinaldo roll the finally ready leaves with infinite care, cut, glue, and proudly present us with a perfect “Puro,” I understand all the passion that drives him.
After 2 hours of an informative and pleasant tour, Reinaldo invites us to share a delicious lunch on the house terrace, before heading back in a tuktuk to Barichara.
After dinner, I enjoyed a small cigarillo from Reinaldo with my father, sitting on the doorstep in the coolness of the evening – a suspended moment.
An experience that changes our way of looking at a cigar 😉
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