Visit Riohacha: How to Get There and Why [Guide]
Editeur
Update
Riohacha is the capital of the La Guajira department on Colombia’s eastern Caribbean coast. Even after staying there for several days, I didn’t find the city interesting to visit.
There are two reasons why you might want to include it in your Colombia itinerary: you plan to go kitesurfing, or you want to organize an incredible adventure in the Guajira desert.
Edit 05/2024: We completely revised this article.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT RIOHACHA, COLOMBIA
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General overview
Riohacha, a city at the gateway to a fabulous desert.
Riohacha is a Colombian city on the eastern Caribbean coast, located 1.5 hours from Palomino. Rich in history and culture, Riohacha is the capital of the La Guajira department.
Founded in 1535 by the conquistador Nikolaus Federmann, the city owes its name to a local legend involving a hatchet. Due to the fertility of these seabeds in pearl oysters, pirates, including the famous Francis Drake, often targeted the area. Becoming an important commercial port, Riohacha played a strategic role during the struggles for Colombia’s independence before becoming the capital of La Guajira in 1964.
It is predominantly populated by the Wayuú, the most represented Amerindian ethnic group in Colombia and indigenous to the La Guajira Peninsula.
Riohacha itself isn’t very interesting.
People come to Riohacha mainly for its kitesurfing schools, which are more affordable than those in Cabo de la Vela, and for its calm, shallow waters, which are perfect for beginners.
It is also the starting point for multi-day excursions into the La Guajira desert.
Riohacha has a semi-arid climate with high temperatures both day and night (averaging 28°C throughout the year, rarely below 23°C) and high humidity year-round.
The most rainy months are October and November. Humidity levels increase even more, afternoon sea breezes stop, and the wind drops. So, if you’re a kitesurfer, it’s not the season for you.
It’s also not a good time for trips to La Guajira, as heavy rains can cause certain roads to close due to excessive mud.
May also sees heavy rainfall.
The rest of the year, the weather is favorable for kitesurfing and exploring La Guajira.
I still advise you to avoid the peak season, which runs from mid-December to mid-January, Holy Week, and long weekends (national holidays).
Don’t waste a day of your trip visiting Riohacha, 2 hours are more than enough to explore it.
If you prefer traveling at a relaxed pace, plan a day trip to the nearby areas. I recommend visiting the Los Flamencos Wildlife and Flora Sanctuary (30 minutes by car from Riohacha). You’ll see wildlife in various natural environments, including flamingos.
If you’re planning to explore the La Guajira desert, I suggest spending the night in Riohacha the evening before. It’s a chance to enjoy a good night’s sleep and a nice meal before starting your adventure, and it also helps with any unexpected issues.
You can choose between a 3-day tour to Cabo de La Vela and Punta Gallinas or a 4-day tour that includes these two destinations plus Macuira. I prefer the latter.
If you’re visiting Riohacha to learn kitesurfing, keep in mind you’ll need at least 10 hours of lessons to start getting comfortable with the sail, so I recommend staying for a week.
© Tomplanmytrip
A TRIP TO la Guajira
Riohacha is the gateway to your adventure in the La Guajira desert.
This is the tour that most travelers opt for. It will lead you to Cabo de La Vela and Punta Gallinas. It’s the perfect choice if you are short on time. Departures are daily, making it easy to join a group.
This less-frequented tour will take you to Cabo de La Vela, Punta Gallinas, and Macuira, a fabulous oasis in the heart of the desert. It’s my favorite spot in La Guajira. There aren’t many departures each month, so plan ahead if you want to add this jewel to your itinerary.
An excursion in La Guajira is a wonderful way to discover untouched landscapes and breathtaking views you won’t find anywhere else.
You will witness spectacular sunsets, and the starry nights are stunning in the desert.
You’ll enter the territory of the Wayuú, the largest indigenous group in Colombia and faithful guardians of La Guajira, who will fascinate you with their culture rich in traditions and legends. Although reserved, the hospitality of the Wayuú reflects the welcoming spirit of Colombians.
Finally, if you have an adventurous spirit, exploring La Guajira means embracing a true challenge in an environment with demanding natural conditions and full of surprises.
Traveling to the La Guajira desert is physically demanding. You will drive for long hours in a jeep on barely marked and rugged paths. The sun is scorching, the humidity can be overwhelming, and the wind can blow strongly.
Accommodations are basic (a simple hammock or cheap bed), and access to water and electricity is limited (there is no air conditioning, and electricity is usually cut off at night).
Exploring La Guajira means facing the unexpected (mechanical breakdowns, Wayuú strikes, impassable roads).
The food is simple and not very varied, and fresh vegetables are rather rare in the desert.
Witnessing the harsh living conditions of the inhabitants of Colombia’s poorest region can be challenging, but it also offers a valuable lesson in humility.
Finally, you may be shocked by the abundance of trash in some areas, which results from poor management and irresponsible tourism.
Before embarking on the adventure, ensure that any physical issues won’t hinder your discovery of this paradise.
Show flexibility and tolerance to deal with unexpected events and be content with basic accommodations. Make the most of any unexpected situation, and remember that the rusticity is part of La Guajira’s charm.
Embark on your La Guajira adventure with a reliable agency. This ensures fewer surprises, a backup plan if needed, and better organization.
If experiencing the Wayuú culture is one of your goals, the 4-day tour to Macuira, the birthplace of the Wayuú people, offers a good balance between exploration and cultural experience.
Finally, travel light. A backpack with just the essentials is key to a successful adventure in La Guajira. And take your trash with you.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHAT TO DO IN RIOHACHA
Other activities to do in Riohacha.
While the kitesurfing spots at Cabo de La Vela are more popular, Riohacha is appreciated by kitesurfers, especially beginners, for its milder winds and waves and its excellent instructors. The prices are also more affordable, and the city is easily accessible.
It’s a must-visit if you’re curious about discovering various natural habitats in the region and the animals they host. The visit includes a boat ride across a lagoon, allowing you to approach a beautiful colony of flamingos.
You can go by booking a guided tour with an agency in Riohacha or on your own (20 km from the city – a 30-minute journey). Make sure to check the opening hours in advance, as they may vary depending on weather conditions.
The best times to visit are at opening or before closing to avoid the hottest hours. In any case, bring a hat and sunscreen.
About 40 minutes by taxi from Riohacha, after a bumpy ride on a road filled with potholes, lies Mayapo Beach, a beautiful white sand beach. The wonderful sea and constant wind make it a popular spot for kitesurfing and other water sports.
Mayapo Beach is not very touristy, offering a relaxed atmosphere and a few restaurants. I particularly enjoyed the “Isaashi” restaurant for its beachfront setting and delicious seafood.
© Etto
WHERE TO STAY IN Riohacha
The best hotels in Riohacha.
There are no high-end hotels in Riohacha. Instead, you’ll find small, simple hotels and friendly hostels. For safety reasons, I recommend choosing accommodations located between Calle 7 and the seafront and between Carreras 2 and 9.
NOVO Hotel Boutique is a new addition to Riohacha’s hotel scene and has received good feedback. It offers modern, comfortable rooms, pleasant and competent staff, and a very good breakfast, all at a reasonable price.
Another option is Casa Flor Hostel & Drinks. It has a good location near the malecón (seafront promenade), nice decor, and friendly staff, but the showers in the rooms could be better.
Also, there’s Hostel Laguna Salá By FSL, a youth hostel with a pool offering private rooms and dormitories. The staff is welcoming, but it can be a bit noisy, and the shared kitchen isn’t very well equipped.
On Mayapo Beach, there are a few basic hotels that aren’t listed on Booking.
There are also some more expensive hotels popular with Colombian couples that look nice but may not offer the best value for money.
Aiwa is a beautiful eco-hotel made from natural materials. It has a private beach, a bar-restaurant, clean and comfortable rooms, and a delicious breakfast included in the price.
Be aware that you won’t fully enjoy it if you stay only one night before heading out on an excursion to La Guajira. Also, remember that Mayapo is a 40-minute drive from Riohacha on a rough road.
© Tomplanmytrip
WHAT TO EAT IN Riohacha
Riohacha’s gastronomy is traditional but tasty.
You absolutely must taste the cazuela de marisco. It’s a delicious dish found on both coasts. It consists of a mix of seafood cooked in a stone pot with a creamy, herb-infused sauce. Trust me, it’s divine!
I highly suggest going to La Casa del Marisco to enjoy this culinary delight.
In my opinion, the best restaurants in Riohacha are:
- La Jaus by La 13: An intimate spot with a warm atmosphere offering delicious pizzas and hummus.
- Eoletto Kite Café: A charming café that serves quality dishes and a refreshing selection of craft beers.
© Tomplanmytrip
HOW TO GET TO Riohacha
And getting around.
The bus is one of the easiest options if you’re coming from a coastal city in Colombia. Several companies operate in the Caribbean region, my favorites being Bolivariano, Brasilia, and Berlinas.
Expect 7 to 8 hours of travel to reach Riohacha.
Plan for about 3 hours of travel to reach Riohacha.
You can also take a bus from Palomino, but since there’s no terminal, you’ll need to wait by the side of the main road (near the gas station) that runs along the coast and signal to the driver when you see a bus coming, hoping there’s an available seat. Expect about 1h30 travel time, not including your wait.
There are also shared taxis (puerta-puerta) that leave when there are at least 3 passengers. They are not very comfortable, the cars are often battered, and you won’t be able to bring much luggage.
The Riohacha airport proposes daily flights at affordable prices to Bogota and Medellin. The flight takes a little over 1 hour. I frequently use Avianca and Latam airlines.
To get around Riohacha, don’t hesitate to take taxis; they’re inexpensive.
© Tomplanmytrip
IS RIOHACHA SAFE?
Be careful.
Due to its proximity to Venezuela, which facilitates illicit trafficking, Riohacha isn’t very safe.
Thus, I recommend doing your excursions during the day and avoiding nighttime outings outside the well-lit malecón and the neighborhoods I suggested for accommodation.
As a general rule in Colombia’s major cities, always take a taxi if you need to travel at night and keep an eye on your valuables (phone, wallet).
© Tomplanmytrip
my last tips
Here are a few things to know to prepare for your trip to Riohacha.
Many agencies offer tours in La Guajira that include the same sites, but the quality of service can vary greatly – believe me, I learned this the hard way!
Some agencies operate without proper permits (and thus without insurance).
Here are the essential criteria to consider before choosing your agency:
- Sturdy, well-maintained 4×4 vehicles with air conditioning if possible.
- Experienced drivers who prioritize passenger safety. If they are friendly, even better, they can act as guides.
- A clear program with well-managed logistics, including contingency plans and a good network of local contacts.
- A responsible and sustainable tourism approach that highlights Wayuú culture.
- A detailed package outlining essentials such as water, accommodation type (hammock, bed), and included meals.
The main advantages of taking a tour are fewer unexpected issues and better organization. Going alone won’t save you much money (at most a few dozen dollars per person on a 3-day tour), and if you don’t speak Spanish well, you’ll struggle to manage.
An agency will also give you the opportunity to meet the Wayuú people, which I believe is an essential added value for making your experience successful.
Remember to withdraw cash, preferably in small denominations, in Riohacha. After Riohacha, the only ATM is in Uribia, and it is often out of order.
During your excursion to La Guajira, you will need cash to buy drinks and souvenirs, such as the famous mochila Wayuú, a bag made by the women of the community.
© Tomplanmytrip
ItinERARIES
How to include Riohacha in your Colombia itinerary.
You can include Riohacha in a trip that mixes discovery and relaxation without having to rush.
Fly from Bogota (about 1 hour) to Riohacha, where you’ll spend 2 nights. Take a quick city tour on the day you arrive and visit the Los Flamencos Wildlife and Flora Sanctuary the next day.
On the second evening, enjoy a tasty cazuela de mariscos. You’ll be all set for your 4-day tour in La Guajira, which will take you to Cabo de La Vela, Punta Gallinas, and Macuira (3 nights in the desert).
After your exploration, take a bus from Riohacha to Tayrona (a little over 3 hours), where you can relax in a lovely hotel near the park. Once you have regained your strength, you might want to explore the park.
© Tomplanmytrip
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This guide on Riohacha is fantastic! I had no idea about the stunning beaches and unique culture of the Wayuu people. The tips on where to eat and what to do really help with planning my trip. Can’t wait to experience the vibrant atmosphere of this beautiful city!