Colombia Travel Guide
San Bernardo Islands
Colombia
Just a two-hour boat ride from Cartagena lies San Bernardo, a collection of ten idyllic islands, including the popular Isla Tintipan and Isla Mucura. The islands are mostly private, limiting beach access, and the archipelago gets packed on weekends. While there are some lovely hotels, the value for money isn’t optimal. Budget travelers may prefer to stay in Rincón del Mar and plan a day trip.
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KEY INFORMATION ABOUT THE SAN BERNARDO ISLANDS
For making smart choices quickly and effortlessly.
general overview
Small paradises in turquoise waters.
Nestled in the Gulf of Morrosquillo, the San Bernardo Archipelago consists of 10 idyllic coral islands on the western shore of Colombia’s Caribbean coast.
Tintipan is the largest island in the group. The archipelago is administered by Cartagena in the Bolivar department.
The nearest locality to the San Bernardo Islands is Rincón del Mar (a 30-minute trip), and they are 2 hours from Cartagena. There are only two municipalities in the archipelago: Mucura and Santa Cruz del Islote, an artificial islet among the most densely populated islands worldwide.
The archipelago has been included in the Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park since 1977. It has about 1500 residents.
Before the Spaniards arrived during the Conquest, San Bernardo was likely inhabited by Amerindian peoples. The current Afro-African population traces its origins to the blending of natives, Spaniards, and the descendants of slaves.
Santa Cruz del Islote was built around 1870 by archipelago inhabitants who accumulated corals, rubble, and stones to reclaim land on the coast at low tide. A more poetic legend suggests that fishermen from nearby islands, surprised by nightfall, slept so peacefully there without hearing any mosquitoes that they decided to settle. Whether fact or legend, Santa Cruz del Islote now faces the threat of rising sea levels.
In more recent times, San Bernardo became a strategic transit point for illicit goods, with many drug traffickers, including the infamous Pablo Escobar, owning houses on these idyllic lands. After challenging years, the islands have regained their tranquility.
Relaxing in a paradisiacal setting is the main activity on the San Bernardo Islands. This involves enjoying the beach, swimming in crystal-clear waters, and sipping cocktails or fresh fruit juices with your feet in the water.
If you feel like it, you can plan some activities with your hotel, such as a snorkeling excursion on the coral reef, paddleboarding or kayaking, bird watching, fishing, or swimming among bioluminescent plankton. You might also want to explore the other islands in the archipelago.
The San Bernardo Islands offer a quieter alternative to the Rosario Islands. Depending on the hotel you choose, you can still find a quiet paradise with few people—so pick your accommodation wisely!
It’s warm year-round on San Bernardo. The average annual temperature is 28°C, rarely dropping below 20°C, though evenings can be cool due to the sea breeze. The hottest months are from late January to mid-April, and the rainy season lasts from May to November, but it’s not very pronounced.
From a climate perspective, you can visit anytime, although the sea is rougher in the afternoons between December and April.
I suggest avoiding the high season, as although still relatively unknown, the islands get quite crowded from mid-December to mid-January, during Holy Week, and the June school holidays. Also, avoid coming on weekends and public holidays (which are numerous in Colombia) as it gets very crowded.
Getting to this little paradise takes some time, so I recommend staying 2 nights to relax and enjoy the setting.
If you’re just curious or on a tight budget, book a day trip from Rincón Del Mar.
© Tomplanmytrip
The islands in the archipelago
Little-known idyllic beaches.
Much smaller and less wild than Isla Tintipan, Isla Mucura is nevertheless the most famous island. It stands out for having a fishing village, one of only two villages in the entire archipelago, along with Santa Cruz del Islote.
The island is 80% privatized by hotels, but trails allow you to walk through the southern part, from the village to the main public beach—where you can have lunch. It’s easier to get around here than on Isla Tintipan.
For beaches and swimming, you can choose between the small and often crowded public beach and your hotel’s private beach.
The largest island in the archipelago and the most stunning (IMO).
Isla Tintipan is mostly covered in mangroves, but its white sandy beaches are idyllic. I love visiting and enjoying tasty seafood dishes under a colorful parasol on the long white sand beach north of the island. This is a public beach, but most is occupied by restaurants and plastic chairs.
Its mangrove ecosystem is also a peaceful refuge for many birds and fish, and kayaking through the intricate mangrove paths is a wonderful experience.
However, you won’t be able to walk around the island as there are no paths, and the marshy mangroves are ideal habitats for mosquitoes and sandflies.
During your stay on Tintipan, I recommend choosing the hotels’ full-board option.
This beautiful little island is the closest to Rincón del Mar (20 minutes away). It’s privately owned by two hotels. With its beach, coconut trees, turquoise waters, and wildlife, you’re in paradise. However, this paradise is expensive, and the hotels are poorly maintained. Access to fresh water is complicated and limited.
Isla Palma is surrounded by a reef that’s easily accessible for snorkeling.
Smaller than two football fields combined, Santa Cruz del Islote is one of the most densely populated islands in the world.
Most of the San Bernardo Archipelago’s inhabitants live on this tiny artificial island where everyone knows each other. Walking through the “town” of the archipelago feels like getting lost in a maze of narrow, colorful streets where children run around chasing a ball.
The residents primarily live off fishing and tourism. With no vegetation, there are no mosquitoes. The locals offer a brief tour to show you the village and observe daily life.
The other islands of San Bernardo are Boquerón, Panda, Mangle, Ceycén, Cabruna, and Maravilla.
Most are small islands composed of dead coral reefs, vegetation, and mangroves. You can approach them by boat, but you won’t be able to dock as they are protected.
© Tomplanmytrip
Things to do in the San Bernardo Islands
In the San Bernardo Archipelago, you unwind and let time slow down.
The must-do activity in the archipelago of San Bernardo is lounging on the white sand under the shade of a palm tree, enjoying fresh fruit juice, and cooling off in the crystal-clear water at 28°C.
Since the islands are largely privatized by hotels, you’ll have a choice between your hotel’s private beach and the only two public beaches on Tintipan and Mucura.
The public beach on Mucura is tiny and quickly gets crowded. It hosts 2-3 budget hotels where you can eat cheaply.
The most beautiful beaches in the archipelago are on the northern coast of Tintipan. This long stretch of white sand is shared by the island’s hotels and features a lovely public beach with a small grocery store and the only two beach bars/restaurants on the island. These places are very busy between 10 AM and 4 PM, especially during high season and weekends, as tourists come for the day.
I also loved the private beaches at Punta Norte (Tintipan), Punta Faro (Mucura), and Isla Palma.
It’s impossible to resist the call of the crystal-clear, warm waters that surround the archipelago. If you’re a snorkeling fan, you might be a bit disappointed. The boats don’t take you far, most head around Isla Palma, there are many people, and the coral reef is in poor condition.
You’ll have a much better time if you go scuba diving. The visibility is excellent, the water temperature is pleasant, and there are some beautiful spots to explore.
Some hotels offer kayaks or paddleboards to navigate the mangroves or along the beach.
In just 1 or 2 hours, you can explore the other archipelago islands. Ask your hotel or make arrangements with a local boat owner.
This allows you to approach the uninhabited and protected islands of the archipelago, visit the “houses on the water” like Casa en El Agua, discover the mangroves, watch birds on Tintipan, and take a tour of the lively Santa Cruz del Islote.
The waters of the mangroves around Tintipan are ideal for witnessing a fascinating bioluminescence phenomenon created by phytoplankton, a multitude of microorganisms.
If possible, choose a night with little or no moonlight, and don’t hesitate to enter the water, as the phenomenon only occurs with movement. Remember to bring your snorkeling mask and wear a white T-shirt.
While it’s not an extraordinary experience, swimming in the dark waters among thousands of tiny lights is thrilling.
If you love fishing, you can head out with the locals and choose your preferred technique: line fishing, trolling, or spearfishing while freediving.
If birdwatching is your thing, the mangroves of Tintipan and Isla Palma host a lovely colony of pelicans and flamingos, along with other marine bird species.
Do you enjoy partying? Check out Casa En El Agua, a delightful hostel on the water. The main activity is sipping cocktails in the shallow waters around the small reef while enjoying good music. One year, I attended a techno festival organized by Casa En El Agua. It was crazy!
© Tomplanmytrip
WHERE TO STAY IN THE SAN BERNARDO ISLANDS
The best hotels in the archipelago—spoiler, they’re not cheap.
Staying in Isla Mucura allows you to enjoy the San Bernardo Islands cheaply—if you pick a hotel in the village. The problem is that these places are poorly maintained, and the setting is far from idyllic, which is why I’ve never thought they were worth it.
You will also find the most luxurious hotel in the archipelago.
Hotel Punta Faro offers full-board with a minimum stay of 2 nights. It’s very expensive, but if you want to treat yourself to a magical and peaceful place with a beautiful beach, go for it. The food is delicious. Ideal for couples.
Hotel Isla Mucura offers palm-roofed cabins scattered across a large property for a slightly more affordable price. This eco-friendly resort is the largest hotel on the island, making it less intimate. Its beach is shaded and pleasant, but the cuisine is not the best, and the prices are high. It’s an interesting option for a family or a group of friends.
Remember that you can’t walk across the island, so choose your accommodation wisely. Also, I recommend avoiding places too close to the main beach, as you might hear the music from day-trip boats.
My favorite hotel on Tintipan is Hotel Puntanorte, located at the island’s northern tip. I find it charming with its thatched construction, colorful rooms, and incredible location. You sleep with the sound of the waves, and the food is excellent but expensive.
El Embrujo Tintipan offers more modern rooms at a similar price range, but I find the setting less idyllic.
Another excellent option is Sal Si Puedes. I loved the deluxe room with its huge balcony facing the sea. Plus, the hotel provides direct access to a beautiful private beach and the mangroves.
If you’re on a tight budget but still want to visit the islands, I recommend Hostel Villa Luz Beach. The owners are lovely and can organize all sorts of activities at a reasonable price. However, there’s no white sandy beach, and you’ll have to shower with a bucket—it’s an adventure!
You’ll only have two hotel choices in this idyllic spot, and neither offers good value for money.
Hotel Isla Palma Reserva Natural is an eco-hotel with a stunning beach, but the hotel is old and poorly maintained, and the food is mediocre and overpriced.
The other option is Mistica Island Hostel, which is more charming with its wood and palm constructions. For budget travelers, there are also tent options or shared rooms. However, the meals are not varied, and their high prices quickly increase the cost of your stay.
Hostel Santa Cruz del Islote is the best option if you want a local experience on the San Bernardo Archipelago and have a tight budget. The accommodation is simple, breakfast is included, and the food is good. It’s perfect for meeting locals and dining in the village.
However, access to water is limited, and waste management on the islet is lacking. There is no beach, just a designated swimming area. You’ll need to take a boat to enjoy a dream beach.
Located on a small dead coral reef close to Tintipan, Casa en El Agua is an eco-friendly hostel that appears to float on the water.
Favored by mostly English-speaking flashpackers, it has a festive vibe, offers full-board options, has good food, and a well-stocked bar. You can sleep in a hammock—but for the price, you’re better off with a room or dormitory.
It gets chilly in the evening due to the wind. The hostel has shared dry toilets and limited access to fresh water.
EATING AND DRINKING
Choose between your hotel or the public beach—for lunch only.
If you don’t opt for the full-board option that most hotels offer, you can choose your dishes à la carte. Generally, the prices are high.
Not all hotels are equal when it comes to food. I suggest selecting a hotel known for good meals, especially in a remote location, as you’ll spend a lot of time there. I recommend PuntaNorte or Punta Faro.
If you’re staying in Mucura, you can walk to the public beach or the village to grab a bite. In Tintipan, you can eat at one of the two beach bars on the public beach in the north of the island, accessible only by boat. If you’re staying in Santa Cruz del Islote, you can also go to the village for a meal.
I recommend choosing fish and seafood dishes. Generally, the food is quite pricey considering the quality, but remember: you’re on an island.
Try the cocktails served in a coconut or pineapple. They’re even better with your feet in the water and make great photo souvenirs. Personally, I loved the Piña Colada.
If you’re in the mood for a lively atmosphere, visit Casa en El Agua. You can enjoy the bar while swimming and dancing in the shallow waters surrounding the reef, and if you’re feeling hungry, the food is pretty good.
© Tomplanmytrip
How to get to san bernardo
And getting around the archipelago
It’s the longest journey to reach Isla Mucura and Isla Tintipan. The trip from Cartagena is easy to organize through the Tranq It Easy agency.
Boats depart daily at 9 AM (check the agency’s website) from Puerta #4 at the La Bodeguita port. They serve most of the hotels in the archipelago, so make sure yours is on the list. You just need to inform the captain who will drop you off. The trip takes about 2.5 hours. The return to Cartagena is scheduled daily around 11 AM.
Luggage weight is limited to 8 kg per person. Bring only what you need, and leave the rest of your belongings at your hotel in Cartagena.
If you stay at Hotel Punta Faro or Isla Mucura, you can travel from Cartagena in their private boats.
Rincón del Mar is the nearest coastal village to the San Bernardo Archipelago.
There is no official transport; arrange with your hotel to get in touch with fishermen who can take you there. Negotiating the price directly with them is common.
I recommend an early departure to maximize your time on the islands. The trip takes around 40 minutes (25 minutes to Isla Palma). There’s no luggage weight limit, but it’s best to leave your large bag at the hotel and only bring essentials—unless you plan to continue to Cartagena afterward.
Another option is to join a San Bernardo Day Tour from Dos Aguas. Simply ask the captain to drop you off at your lodging island.
Tolú is a small coastal town south of Rincón del Mar. While it’s popular among Colombians, I didn’t find it very appealing.
If you happen to be there, local agencies offer day tours, and you can ask the captain to drop you off at Mucura or Tintipan. The journey takes approximately 1 hour.
Some hotels in the archipelago also offer private boat services from Tolu.
Since the islands are largely private, it’s difficult to get around on foot, except for the southern part of Mucura, between the public beach and the village.
You’ll need to take small motorized boats (lancha) for most of your trips.
© Tomplanmytrip
Is the archipelago safe?
Everyone knows everyone here. I’ve never felt unsafe.
© Tomplanmytrip
ADVICE FOR THE ISLANDS
Here are a few additional tips to fully enjoy the San Bernardo Islands.
There are no ATMs on the San Bernardo islands, and card payment options are limited. When you can use a card, additional fees are usually applied.
Bring enough cash to cover your expenses like drinks and meals, especially if you’re not on a full-board plan.
If you really want to enjoy this idyllic spot, having a decent budget is best.
Otherwise, just come for a day trip.
As you’ve noticed, the islands in the archipelago are mostly private.
This means you’ll be spending a significant amount of time at your hotel.
Choose your hotel wisely, focusing on its location to avoid noise, find a nice piece of sand, and eat well.
I suppose you’re already familiar with the beach tourist essentials. Just remember to pack a sweater. The fresh ocean breeze can make the evenings chilly.
An external battery is handy in case of power cuts.
There are mosquitoes and sandflies—particularly on Isla Tintipan. Coconut oil helps protect against sandfly bites. For mosquitoes, I recommend Nopikex.
If you’re traveling from Cartagena, you’re theoretically limited to 8 kg of luggage.
Nothing too serious, don’t worry!
The San Bernardo Islands are far from everything, which makes them so appealing. Depending on your location, expect power cuts and freshwater may be rationed. Remember, the water is not drinkable; you must use bottled mineral water.
Also, waste management is always an issue on an island, so try to produce as little waste as possible and take it with you.
© Tomplanmytrip
ITINERARIES
To include the San Bernardo Islands in your trip to Colombia.
It’s the most common option, but the boat trip is a bit long (2.5 hours). The typical itinerary includes 2 to 3 nights in Cartagena and 2 nights on the San Bernardo Islands (Mucura or Tintipan).
Start your trip by arriving at Rincón del Mar and stay for 3 nights. Next, spend 2 nights on the San Bernardo Islands and end your trip with 2 or 3 nights in Cartagena.
© Tomplanmytrip
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