Comuna 13, Medellín: A Guide To Visit This Famous District
Editeur
Update
Should you visit Comuna 13 in Medellín? And if so, how?
Here is a guide to the best ways to visit this famous neighborhood in Colombia, based on my numerous visits. I’ll explain how to visit it solo or how to choose the right tour—my preferred option.
Edit 07/2024: We completely revised this article.
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MY OPINION ON COMUNA 13
To make the right decision quickly and easily.
WHY I LOVE COMUNA 13
Street art, electric atmosphere, and above all, a fascinating history.
Comuna 13 has gone from being one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in Medellín to one of the city’s most visited tourist sites.
This transformation took place just a few years ago. During this visit, you can listen to the poignant testimonies of the residents over a meal, talk with them, and understand the approach of the artists behind these incredible graffiti artworks.
You will find beautiful graffiti on every corner.
Beyond the art, Comuna 13 offers a very rich cultural experience. Live performances of rap, hip-hop, and breakdance are common spectacles. The local shops and cafes, offering delicious coffee and refreshing beer, add to the charm.
The residents have opened many spaces where you can enjoy a beautiful view of Medellín. Perfect for a souvenir photo.
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THE HISTORY OF COMUNA 13
From guerrilla to tourists.
In the 1960s and 70s, Comuna 13 became home to around 1,500 families fleeing conflicts from various regions of the Antioquia department. These early refugees had few resources to start their new lives, building their houses with whatever materials they could find and living without basic amenities such as running water or electricity.
The arrival of the AUC, a right-wing paramilitary group, marked the beginning of a radical change. Clashes regularly erupt with the guerrillas (far-left). Both groups fight for control of Comuna 13.
This military offensive in October 2002, aimed at eradicating left-wing rebels, saw over 1,000 soldiers and police (along with tanks and helicopters) invade Comuna 13, turning it into a battlefield.
Trapped amidst gunfire and without electricity, residents hid under their beds for several days before coming out into the streets with white handkerchiefs to call for an end to the fighting.
The city of Medellin installs escalators. Communities of young artists from Comuna 13 emerge and start telling their story through graffiti. Change begins.
©Tomplanmytrip
HOW TO GET TO COMUNA 13
Heading to San Javier.
The easiest way to reach Comuna 13 is to go to the San Javier metro station. From there, you can either take a green bus (221i or 225i) or enjoy a 25-minute walk up to the foot of the escalator.
For direct and hassle-free access, Uber can take you directly to the starting point of your exploration of Comuna 13. Try to avoid peak hours (6am-8am; 5pm-7pm).
This is where it all begins.
©Tomplanmytrip
WHY I LOVE TOURS OF COMUNA 13
Tour vs self-guided visit.
Without a guide, you won’t be able to talk to the locals. There are too many tourists for that. During one of my visits, I had lunch with a lovely family from Comuna 13. It was a beautiful cultural immersion.
Each graffiti carries a strong meaning, often with many symbols. You won’t be able to decipher them on your own.
Comuna 13 is enormous, but only a small part is mostly overrun by tourists. There are other parallel streets equally interesting to visit (and more authentic). However, these alleys form a real maze.
Colombia’s history is complex, with guerrillas, paramilitaries, drug traffickers, and the government all playing significant roles. It’s hard to navigate. A visit to Comuna 13 can help you understand it better.
Some residents of Comuna 13 now depend on tourism for their livelihoods. This is precisely the kind of experience where supporting community tourism is important.
©Tomplanmytrip
THE DIFFERENT TOURS OF COMUNA 13
How to choose well.
Zippy Tour is a name that often comes up. Although it’s free, a tip of about 30,000 COP is expected. These tours are a great option for backpackers. However, keep in mind that larger groups may mean you won’t catch every word the guide says. And believe me, the groups can be quite large.
Some of these tours offer good value for money, but it can be difficult to find them in French. If you speak English or Spanish, I recommend Casa Kolacho.
It’s my favorite option because it allows for a real discussion with a local guide (which is often challenging in Comuna 13 due to crowds and noise). Moreover, you can start earlier to arrive before most tourists. I also recommend combining this tour with a visit to the historic center of Medellin.
©Tomplanmytrip
SOME TIPS ON COMUNA 13
To enjoy it more fully.
A visit to Comuna 13 can vary in duration:
- Without a guide: You’ll likely spend about two hours exploring the neighborhood, taking photos, and enjoying the street art and atmosphere.
- With a guide: A guided tour typically lasts around 4 hours. This is the time needed to uncover the stories behind the murals and understand the community’s history.
Timing is crucial. Here’s what I think is most advisable:
- Mornings are ideal. There are fewer people, and you avoid the midday heat.
- Avoid going on Sundays. It’s the busiest day of the week. If possible, choose a weekday to explore Comuna 13.
Yes, I’ve never had any problems during my visits to Comuna 13, and there are always a lot of people.
- Common sense is essential. Keep an eye on your valuables and consider wearing your backpack in front.
- Stay on the right path. The alleys can be confusing, so it’s best to stick to the main routes if you don’t have a guide.
Absolutely! I recommend Call Me Mami Hostel, located in a quieter part of Comuna 13-La Loma. Blankita makes you feel like part of the family by offering activities, ensuring safety, and providing an unmatched local atmosphere.
I recommend visiting the Museo Casa de la Memoria in Medellín BEFORE going to Comuna 13. It helps you understand the history of the armed conflict in Colombia—left-wing guerrillas versus paramilitaries. This way, you’ll have better questions to ask your guide 😉
©Tomplanmytrip
Comuna 13, Medellín: A Guide To Visit This Famous District
When friends or family come to visit me in Medellin, they absolutely want to explore Comuna 13.
Here are some photos and captions to accompany me on this adventure—a report from my private tour of Comuna 13.
TOM’S ADVICE
Comuna 13 is one of the many things to do in Medellin. If you plan to stay for several days, don’t hesitate to explore the surroundings. Also, take a look at my tips for creating a good itinerary for Medellin, as well as my analysis of the best neighborhoods.
My photos of Comuna 13, Medellín
The houses here are all built close to each other. The residents have constructed a pedestrian (and sometimes motorcycle) path to facilitate tourist visits.
The famous escalators were built in 2012 to ease transportation for residents of the Comuna.
The residents are very ingenious in decorating their neighborhood so that tourists can take photos with the stunning city view.
By the way, I recommend taking a cable car ride from San Javier station to Aurora.
And yes, I also visited Comuna 13 on a Sunday… It’s less enjoyable!
Aleja devouring her Maracu-mango ice cream, a specialty of Comuna 13! You can go to Casa Doña Alba or Cremas Doña Consuelo.
It’s amazing how Colombians are always so cheerful. This young girl is preparing a rather special dessert: Gelatina de pata de vaca — made from cow’s collagen.
I never tire of taking photos of these graffiti artworks.
During our 4th visit, we enjoyed a small traditional music concert and then had a delicious coffee at Aroma de Barrio. The chairs are pretty cool, right? 😀
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